Chapter 34 Nanjing

Nanjing Nanjing is a place worth lingering, although I only come and go, and it's all in summer.I also want to boast and boast, but unfortunately I know too little; what I write now is just the impression of a traveler. Visiting Nanjing is like visiting an antique shop, there are traces of the erosion of the times everywhere.You can caress, pay tribute to, and daydream leisurely; think of the rise and fall of the Six Dynasties, the love affairs of Wang Xie, and the beauty of Qinhuai.These may be just old tunes, but after some thoughtfulness from my family, it will be different.So I advise you to go to Jiming Temple, it is best to choose a light rainy day or a moonlit night.In the obscurity, the faint ancient flavor is brewing.You sit on the Huomeng Building with a row of bright windows, drink a bowl of tea, and look at the winding Taicheng in front of you.The clear and desolate Xuanwu Lake outside Taicheng is like a painting by Da Dizi.The row of windows in Huomeng Building is arranged most thoughtfully, so that you can see nothing more, nothing less.Behind the temple there is a well for irrigating the garden, but it is not the "Rouge Well" where Empress Chen and Zhang Lihua hid together.The rouge well is not on the side of the road, so it takes a little effort to find it.The well fence is not on the well; to see it, you have to go all the way to the Antiquities Preservation Center at the site of the Ming Dynasty Palace.

From the garden behind the temple, pick up the road to Taicheng; there are no piles, it's really like a platform.Stepping on the fluffy grass, it is indescribably quiet.In summer, there are groups of black butterflies flying in the breeze during the daytime; these black butterflies fly up and down, looking like a thick column from a distance.Every corner of Nanjing can be seen from the city.At this time, if someone who is familiar with the situation of previous dynasties can point you out, the Sui soldiers entered from this corner, and the Hunan army entered from that corner. You can imagine the troops with different costumes, with different banners, and with different flags. The weapons came surging in, as if there were cries in the distance.If you remember some of Jinling's nostalgic poems, you can recite them a few times secretly at this time, which can also confirm and confirm, and maybe you can better understand the author's feelings on that day.

In the past, you could climb out of Taicheng and be by the Xuanwu Lake; if it was a moonlit night, two or three people, two or three scattered shadows, moving down crookedly, would be good enough.It can't be done now, get out of the temple, go down the mountain, and go out of the city around the big bend.Seven or eight years ago, the lake was almost full of reeds, and it was always desolate and cold. Although there was a good moonlight, it could not shine on the water; the boat was narrow, small, and leaky, which made people worry about walking around.The past few years have changed a lot. When I go out of the city and see the lake, there is a sense of mist and water; there are too many boats, and there are wicker chairs to lie on.Both the shore and the water are bare; fortunately, there are five continents dotted in the lake, otherwise it would be unobstructed.The water here is white and rippling, just like the momentum of the Yangtze River. It is different from the quiet green of the West Lake. It is most suitable for watching the moon. It is empty and boundless.If you are slightly drunk, facing the breeze, lying on the wicker chair half asleep, listening to the gurgling waves at the bottom of the boat and the flute from nowhere, it will really teach you to forget where you are.The five continents seem to be too cramped to see, but the long dikes are connected in a subtle way, but it is worth walking.The cherries on the lake are the most famous.It is said that when the cherries are ripe, tourists buy, pick and eat cherries under the tree, chatting and laughing, it is very lively.

Qingliang Mountain is in a corner, and it seems that there are not many people.The arrangement of the Saoye Tower is similar to that of the Huomeng Tower, but the scene outside the window is different.Here is surrounded by dripping green mountains, and there is a patch of dripping green trees at the foot of the mountain; the green really rushes to people's eyebrows.If I were to use painting as a comparison, it might look like Wang Shigu's handwriting.It's not easy to sit on the Huomeng Tower for a long time, you should at least go to Taicheng to have a look.I don't want to leave when I'm on the sweeping building; the scenery outside the window seems to be designed for this building, and once I go upstairs, I have everything.There is indeed a "cool" taste in summer.Both here and Huomenglou have vegetarian noodles, which are delicious and cheap.

Mochou Lake is in Huayan Nunnery.The lake is not big, and you can't go boating, but in summer, there are lotus and lotus leaves. The houses around the lake, looking out from the railing, are also quite distant.The small statue of Mo Chou, painted by someone downstairs in Shengqi, probably isn't very old; but the face is so beautifully opened, and the folds of the clothes are so soft and lively, it has the meaning of "waving the sleeves to Ling Xuxiang"; If I were asked to write a question, I would write the four characters "Xianhu Xianhu" without hesitation.There is also a portrait carved in stone here, and I think it may be from that painting; but the vitality is much worse.Although it is also near the lake, it looks darker because of the depth of the house; but it is antique and very dark.Of course there are many couplets in poems and prose, but I only remember Wang Xiangqi's half couplet: "Don't belittle his rouge from the north. Seeing that the boat is new, the sons and daughters of the south of the Yangtze River have no color." The spirit is very good.The so-called Shengqi Tower is said to have been played by Emperor Taizu of the Ming Dynasty and Xu Da. When Xu Da won, Taizu gave him this house.A person like Taizu would actually do such an elegant thing.The small pavilion facing the lake on the left is much brighter and brighter.There is a portrait of Zeng Guofan. I forget who wrote the sentence "Jiang Tian Xiaoge sits a man of honor".I like this inscription, "Jiang Tian" and "Zuo Ren Hao", the grand scene makes the room more cheerful.

I have another memory of the Qinhuai River.But the situation mentioned in that article has changed drastically now.In the past, when I read books like "Banqiao Miscellaneous Notes", I felt quite a sense of vicissitudes; now that I think about the situation I experienced more than ten years ago, I am afraid that I will also feel the vicissitudes of life.The year before last, I saw the old painted boats in front of the Confucius Temple in such a state of embarrassment, and I saw the Qinhuai River in the old Wanquan Winery. what dream.The Gongyuan was originally on the Qinhuai River, but now it has been demolished to a small extent.In the fifth year of the Republic of China, my father took me to see it. It was already desolate, and the grass in the house was overgrown.My father used to run a mission in Jiangnan, and he was familiar with the situation in the examination room, so he was well-versed in what he said.He said that when the candidates entered the hall, they were all sent off, there were a lot of people, and there was a lot of noise at the door.Roll call before dawn, search entrainment.Everyone returns.It seems that it was not until night that the first question came out, written on the light board, and carried by the trumpet army in each number.The so-called "number" is a narrow and long alley, with number houses lined up on both sides, and what kind of Tianzizi, Dizizi and other grades are written on the entrance.Each house is so big that it can just accommodate one person sitting on it; people used to say it looks like a sedan chair, which is really good.For a few days, I eat, sleep, and write articles, all in this sedan chair; each seat has a hard board, that's all.The official title is slightly better, and it is reserved for the children of high officials and nobles, but they have to make up their coats to go to Zhudi to enter the arena. It was the turn of summer and autumn, and the weather was still hot, which was enough.My father also said that during the rural examination, there were soldiers patrolling outside the venue to guard against passing joints.Black flags were also erected in the arena, telling the ghosts to avenge their grievances and revenge; I was a little horrified when I heard this.Now the Gongyuan has turned into a gravel road; people who walk on the road, I am afraid that they seldom think of these things, right?

The Forbidden City of the Ming Dynasty is just a rubble field. Looking at it in the setting sun, I can only feel the wonderfulness of the second language of Li Taibai's "Recalling Qin'e" "Western wind shines, the Han family mausoleum is quelled".The Meridian Gate still remains, facing the tower of Hongwu Gate in the distance, there are thousands of scenes.The Antiquities Preservation Office is here, but unfortunately the scale is too small and the display is not in order.Although the stone men and stone horses on the Xiaoling Road in the Ming Dynasty are incomplete and messy, strong winds can still be seen; the hall of enjoyment is not towering, but the tunnel under the mausoleum is gloomy and haunting. Staying in it in summer, the cool breeze refreshes your muscles and bones.This mausoleum is probably the scale created when the country was founded, so it is very simple; compared with Changling, it is really far behind.But simple and good.

The stones in Yuhuatai are well known to everyone; but now I'm afraid I can't pick up anything.There was nothing to see in that place.I remember Liu Houcun's poem: "Where was the lecturer in the past, the high platform was still named 'Rain Flower'. Sometimes treasures are found in the mud, and a mountain has no grass to grow." That's what I feel at most.Also, in the past few years, prisoners in Nanjing were shot under Yuhuatai, so when foreign coachmen met other coachmen competing with him, they often said, "What are you busy! Go to Yuhuatai!" Same.Now that time has changed, such words are gradually inaudible.

Looking at Yanziji from the Yangtze River, it is a cliff and dangerous pavilions, which is indeed thrilling.But when you get to the top, it's narrow and filthy, and there's nowhere to hang around.Of the twelve caves in Yanshan, I have been to three.Only the three caves are folded layer by layer, from the secluded to the bright, with unique ingenuity, but they have also fallen into disrepair for a long time. Needless to say, the new scenic spot in Nanjing is Sun Yat-sen's Mausoleum.Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum is entirely in blue and white to symbolize the blue sky and white sun, which is different from the red walls and yellow tiles used in the emperor's mausoleum.If the red walls and yellow tiles are rich and noble, then the enjoyment hall with green glazed tiles and the stele pavilion with green glazed tiles are also famous and precious.Viewing the hall from the gate of the mausoleum, I don’t know how many steps there are on the white stone steps, but climbing it is tiring enough; but if you look at it from a distance, you would never expect there to be so many steps.This is the beauty of design.The same is true of the stone steps in front of the Palace of Sanssouci in Potzdam, Germany.The Xiangtang is not small when you enter it; but from a distance, it is quite small, not commensurate with the flying steps of the white stone, and it can't be suppressed at all, as if a tall person wearing a small pointed hat.In the corner of the nearby mountain is a memorial tower for fallen soldiers. It is thick and short, facing a small green mountain. The mountains on both sides hug each other tightly, very quiet and stable. ——I have never been to Tan Tomb, I heard that it is quite hilly.The central stadium is also near the Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum, which is completely imitated from abroad.During the National Games, I don't know how many photos and descriptions were published in the newspapers; now it is a fashionable swimming place.

If you want to read old books, you can go to Jiangsu Provincial Library.This is also a corner in Longpan Lane, Hanxi Gate.This was originally the Jiangnan Library, based on Ding Bing's collection of rare books; there are especially many books on lyrics and music.In addition, the library of Central University has quite a lot of books in recent years.Chuo University is a great place for a walk.It is wide, clean, and has trees; it is most interesting to go around in a large or small circle at dusk.There is a plum temple in the back, which is the remains of the Qing Taoist who could write.Here is just a small house made of sticks at will.There is a Six Dynasties pine in front of the nunnery, but it is said that it is actually a Six Dynasties juniper; the shade of the juniper covers the small courtyard, and it is really spotless.

Gansi is very famous in Nanjing teahouses.But these people must have never been to Zhenjiang and Yangzhou, where the dried silk is much thinner than Nanjing, and it has never been so sweet.I think sesame biscuits are good, a kind of oblong, freshly baked, fragrant, crispy, and white, probably available in every teahouse.Salted salted salted duck is a famous product in Nanjing. It tastes good if you eat it hot; the meat needs to be fat and thick to have a chewy texture.But people in Nanjing say that salted duck is better, whichever is more tender and fresh; it is eaten cold, but I don't know why, I always feel that it is not very exciting. Made on August 12, 1934. (Originally published in "Middle School Students" No. 48 on October 1, 1934)