Chapter 14 Good water and good mountains are not enough to see

Good water and good mountains are not enough to see Watching the Tide in the Qianjiang River On the eighteenth day of the eighth lunar month, I live in Hangzhou.This day happened to be Sunday, and two relatives and friends came to the apartment, as well as two children who had returned to the apartment on menstruation.In the morning, the weather is cloudy but not rainy, cool but not cold.Someone mentioned that today is Chaochen, and everyone got excited and suggested going to Haining to watch the tide.However, my left toe was suffering from damp poison, and it was difficult to walk. The heel of my shoe could not be pulled out, so I dragged my shoe to go out, which violated the New Life Movement and would be interfered by the police.But I don't want to disappoint everyone by doing this.So everyone discussed and revised the method: I borrowed a big shoe to wear on my left foot, and changed the place to watch the tide to Sanlang Temple by the Qiantang River.We know that the tide on the Qiantang River is not as strong as that of Haining, so it is really "nothing to see".But when it's your turn to do everything, no matter what, always think of some benefits of it, one to encourage courage and the other to comfort people's hearts.Some people said: "This year's tide is bigger than in previous years, and the Qiantang River tide is also very impressive." "Today's newspaper said that the iron railings at the riverside station were washed away by the tide yesterday, and more than 20 people climbed on the iron railings to watch the tide." , was submerged for a while, but luckily they were blocked by the house, so they didn't join Bochen, but four of them suffered bloody injuries." After hearing this, everyone felt that Jianggan was no less than Haining, and this trip must be worthwhile.I accompanied my two relatives and friends, my daughter and a child, and a group of six people left for the river at ten o'clock in the morning.I wore one big and one small shoes and followed them.

It was only eleven o'clock when we took the bus to Sanlang Temple.We crossed the river to see the station on Hangjiang Road, and there were stones, slabs and trees lying on the ground, which we said were caused by yesterday's tide.The two wharves on both sides of the Qianjiang River are too long, and they may add up to a mile.When I came back, my feet couldn't take it anymore, so I took a rickshaw.Sitting in the car and looking at my own feet, they seemed to belong to two people.If I paint it as it is, anyone who sees it will definitely say that it is a mistake, but no one pays attention along the way. It's just my own conscience. When someone looks at my feet by chance, I suspect that he is laughing at me. When I meet someone I know, During the conversation, I had to tell him the special reason for the shoes.He didn't pay attention to my feet before, but he knew it after listening to me.People who are good at defending themselves often expose their shortcomings in order to cover up their shortcomings.

Looking at the north bank from the ferry in the middle of the river, I saw a tall building near the pier, with many windows and no obstacles in front.I chose this as the best place to watch the tide.Judging by its appearance, it is not a private house, but a teahouse or hotel, where we can sit.Because of my sore feet, my thirst, my hunger, and my greedy eyes, I looked at this building from afar and found it extremely exquisite, as beautiful as a fairyland.We jumped onto the pier, and it was already twelve o'clock.After walking all the way to the pier, we saw the signboard of the tea house hanging on the upper floor, so we happily went upstairs.Going up the escalator, you can see the clear windows lined up, and the entire river view is enclosed in the window, it is really a good place to go.There were very few tea customers, and the six of us occupied a row of chairs by the window.I turned around and called the waiter: "One red and one green!"

But the waiter came over empty-handed, and said to me with a smile: "Sir, today we are buying seats, and each person has four corners." After hearing this, my relatives and friends all stood up and said they wanted to leave.But the sons and daughters didn't pay any attention to it. They just looked at the river view from the window, talked and talked, talked and laughed, which was just right for them.I also miss this place, but my relatives and friends thought the seat price was too expensive, so they bargained with the waiter, but the three children were "so-so", and the six of us paid a total of one yuan.After paying the money first, everyone sat down with confidence.Ask the waiter to order six bowls of noodles and some fruit for lunch.Everyone is hungry and eats quickly.After eating, I saw that the river view outside the window was more beautiful than before.

We came too early, the tide didn't come until three o'clock.At half past one, we saw others coming upstairs one after another.Some thought the seats were expensive and went back.Some looked at the river view, hesitated, and sat down.At 2:30, the seats upstairs were full, and it was extremely noisy, which was not comparable to eating noodles again.Fortunately, our seats were at the window, facing the river with our backs against the noise, as if we were on the boundary between Wei and Wei, which gave us a different feeling. It was almost three o'clock, and there was no place to stand upstairs.Latecomers have no seats, no tea, and no money.Many people crowded behind us.Looking back, I saw a crowd of viewers.

There are men and women, old and young, and even children being held.Some sat on the table, some stood on the stool, and some even stood on the table.What they saw was the same Qiantang River.Over time, over time, my eyes became sore and my legs hurt from standing, but the tide still didn't come.Everyone got tired, some bowed their heads, and some sat down.Suddenly there was a sharp voice from the crowd: "Come! Come!" Everyone immediately stretched their necks, but the Qiantang River remained the same.It turned out that a mother was crying because the child was crowded, and was there to comfort him.

Jiang Shui is so ruthless.The more everyone waits eagerly, the more pretentious it becomes.It is like a conductor in a railway station, or a registered mail receiver in a post office. There are many people waiting for him outside the window, and he just smokes leisurely. Around 3:20, the tide really came!There are tens of thousands of people in the building, like spectators at the winning point in a sports meeting.I take off sunglasses, too and stare at Eguchi.But I saw a white line as thick as the cigarettes on the table, slowly extending from Jiangkou to this direction.After a long delay, when we reached Xixing, the white line became blurred.After a long time, the river in front of the building gradually rose.Submerged the feet of the pier.There were some waves on the river bank downstairs, sometimes hitting a stone, sometimes submerging a sand embankment.Then the waves calmed down and the water gradually receded.Just watch the tide.

The people in the building seemed to have gained something, and dispersed one after another.My relatives and friends and I also wanted to take the children downstairs, but a child refused to go, and asked me in amazement: "We still have to watch the tide!" Everyone laughed and told him: "The tide has already been seen!" He didn't believe it. , almost cried.After many consolations, I just stopped crying and went downstairs. I really sympathize with the kid's words.When I left my seat, I also had the feeling of "I still have to watch the tide!".It seems that today's goal has not been achieved.I never watch the tide just to watch the tide.Today I came here specifically to watch the tide, but the tide I saw was nothing more than that, I was really disappointed.But I suspect that my feelings are not right.If the tide is not enough to watch, why are there so many viewers in the teahouse and on the river bank that the way back is blocked?To ask my relatives and friends, one person said: "We are not here to watch the tide, but to celebrate the birthday of the tide god!" of.No wonder the tide didn't look good.Looking back on what I saw in the teahouse, there was nothing beautiful to describe except the old river view.There is only one scene that cannot be forgotten: when the waves submerged the sand embankment, a group of people were standing on the sand embankment to watch the tide.When the waves came, everyone ran back in a hurry, half-immersed in the water, raised their hands and cried loudly. Fortunately, an adult turned around to rescue them, and they were not drowned.This scene is like a flood map.Looking at this picture, it reminds me of the recent floods in various parts of the Yellow River and Yangtze River basins, and I am disappointed.

Guilin's mountains "Guilin's mountains and rivers are the best in the world", I had already heard this sentence before I arrived in Guilin. I asked people who have been there in advance: "What is so good about it?" Most people who have been there replied to me, "It is extremely wonderful, and it is rare in the world."This was the time when Wuhan evacuated its population, and I returned to Changsha from Hankou, preparing to flee to Guilin with my family.The Anti-Japanese War was defeated successively, and our refugees were overwhelmed. We managed to escape to Hankou and then to Guilin.As for landscapes, I really have no intention of appreciating them, I just ask them occasionally.However, in the midst of busy schedules, there must be leisure.When I was free, I imagined the landscape of Guilin, assuming it was better than Hangzhou.Otherwise, how can it be called "the best under heaven"?

Our family of ten, plus four or five members of Mr. Zhang Zisheng's family, jointly chartered a large car from Changsha to Guilin. The fare was 270 yuan.After passing through Hengyang, Lingling and Shaoyang, it entered Guangxi.The long-famous landscape of Guilin unfolded before my eyes on the afternoon of June 24, 27th year of the Republic of China.When we first met, the impression was very fresh.Those mountains rise from the ground, like the stalagmites in the Zhuangzi of the West Lake, but they are huge in shape, which reminds people of the distant peaks in ancient paintings, and reminds them of the poem "Three peaks outside the sky can't be cut".As for the water, the green waves of the Lijiang River are greener than the water of the West Lake, which is really lovely.When I first arrived in Guilin, I was very satisfied, thinking that it was a great fortune among misfortunes to take refuge in such a place with beautiful mountains and rivers.The manager of Kaiming Bookstore rented three bungalows in Mahuangbei (street name) for me, and bought some bamboo wares for me.Bamboo chairs, bamboo stools, and bamboo beds, used by ten people, cost a total of fifty-eight gui coins.The value of the Guicoin is half that of the French currency, and two Guicoins are exchanged for one French currency.Fifty-eight laurel coins are twenty-nine French coins.When we went to Guangxi, we couldn't figure it out. We mistakenly used French currency as Gui coin several times.Pay attention later, you must get a 50% discount when you pay for the purchase.

I am used to folding in half, and I want to fold in half when I see any number.We arrived in Guilin on June 24th.Later, someone asked me when I arrived, and after I answered "June 24th", I almost wanted to add: "It was March 12th!" After the fall of Hankou and the fall of Guangzhou, Guilin also became the target of the enemy's air strikes. We often escaped the alarm.Air-raid shelters are natural and can be found everywhere, just at the foot of the rising mountain.Because of escaping the police, I became closer to the mountains of Guilin.I have become more aware of the character of Guilin's mountains.I gradually felt that these were not mountains, but large stalagmites.Because not only do they rise from the ground at a ninety-degree angle to the ground, but they are all green-gray hills without any trees or flowers.Over time, I feel that Guilin is actually a plain without mountains, but there are many large stalagmites planted around it, which are bigger and more than those in the village of West Lake.I'm getting tired of seeing these big stalagmites.There are not many stalagmites in the courtyard, which can be used to decorate the scenery; but our "Guilin" courtyard has too many stalagmites, which can be seen everywhere, which is annoying.Sometimes I look at the peaks in the distance, imagining that they are the teeth of a big animal, and sometimes I see a sharp peak, and I think of the Jiandao Mountain I saw in the murals of the Ten Halls of Kings in the temple when I was a child.If a giant fell from the sky and landed on these peaks, his chest would be pierced and his belly would be pierced, dripping with blood, just like the one in the Ten Halls of Hades.This kind of imagination made me gradually loathe the mountains in Guilin.When I heard the reputation of "Guilin's mountains and rivers are the best in the world", my feelings are quite different from before: I think the characteristic of Guilin is "odd", but it cannot be called "A", because "A" has the meaning of perfection and is always Average score.Among all the scenery in the world, the mountains of Guilin are by no means perfect.Its overall average score is by no means "A".People in the world often confuse the words "beautiful" and "odd" together, and they are confused. In fact, odd is rare and not necessarily beautiful.Beauty is full and complete, not necessarily strange.People with three heads and six arms can be described as strange, but they cannot be said to be beautiful.Innocent children can be beautiful, but they are not unusual.The mountains in Guilin are strange but not beautiful, just like people with three heads and six arms.I love painting. When I went to Guilin, people always said, "It's where I am," which means that Guilin's landscape is the best in the world, so I can use it in my paintings.This reminds me of many ridiculous things: Someone told me once: "Here comes your good painting material. There is a man over there. His body is less than three feet long, and his beard is three or four inches long." I ran to have a look, and it turned out that A dwarf brought by the juggler.The man's body was no higher than the table top, and his head was that of an old man.I only feel horror, pity and sympathy for this crippled man. How can I have the mood to appreciate his "magic", let alone beauty and painting.Another time when I was sketching in the wild, I met an acquaintance who said he was familiar with the local scenery and kindly guided me to explore the beautiful scenery. He said, "the most beautiful scenery is over there, come with me!" I followed him through mountains and rivers, After walking very tired, he finally reached his destination.It turned out that there was an old tree, which was lying on the ground, but its branches and leaves were still thriving.I said bluntly: "This is so ugly! I don't want to draw it." He was a big disappointment, but I felt it was a pity.It's a pity that he guided me to this time. There are many ordinary and beautiful scenery along the way, which I have never written.And his so-called beauty is actually strange.What is beautiful is not what I call beauty.I have experienced many such things.The mountains in Guilin are one of them. The mountain characters in seal script are three almost triangular things.The ancient man-made pictographs took great pains to express the most important features with the simplest strokes.Like female characters, hand characters, wood characters, cursive characters, bird characters, horse characters, mountain characters, water characters, etc., each character is a sketch.And because the mountain looks like a plane, the appearance of the pictographic characters created is particularly concise.From this word, we can know that the typical mountains are nearly triangular, not stalagmite-shaped; we can know that the mountains in Guilin are not typical mountains, but just one kind of mountains - strange mountains.There is an old saying: "The benevolent enjoys the mountains, and the wise enjoys the water." It can be seen that the surrounding mountains and rivers have a great influence on a person's character.The strange mountains in Guilin give Guangxi people a unique character, they are courageous and indomitable, and they go straight to the point with a short knife, straightforward and happy.The fact that Guangxi is doing well in politics and is known as a model province is due to the influence of the environment; Guangxi produces military personnel and has a large number of soldiers, which is also due to the influence of the mountains rising from the ground.But when it comes to the beauty of the scenery, Guangxi should not participate. "Guilin's mountains and rivers are the best in the world", originally there was no saying "nails in the world".But when it comes to mountains and rivers, it is easiest to focus on its beauty, so Guilin cannot stand this reputation.If it is changed to "Guilin's landscape is amazing in the world", it will be close to love. Lushan Travel Notes 1. Views of Jiang Xing After translating the first volume of 300,000 words of Korolenko's "The Story of My Contemporaries", the family originally planned to go on a trip, and the destination was Lushan Mountain.A week before the manuscript was finished, some snacks were not in the pickaxe; the co-translator Yiyin’s heart must have gone up the mountain, and he put down the translation pen during the rest every day (we negotiated sentence by sentence between father and daughter, and she wrote it), and called Jiujiang to inquire about it. Shipping schedule.Finally, on the morning of July 26, three days after the manuscript was sent out, five people, including parents, children and a grandson, boarded the Jiangxin steamship. When Victory returned home, the family transferred from Longhai Road to Hankou. After returning to Shanghai by ship from Hankou, they had not taken a riverboat for ten years.Fei Jun (grandson) saw the Yangtze River for the first time. Standing on the bow deck and saying goodbye to the magnificent Shanghai in the morning light, everyone showed joy and happiness on their faces as they sailed up the river with the wind and waves.We occupied two and a half rooms: Yiyin shared one with her mother, Feijun shared one with his little uncle Xinmei, and I shared one with Wu Jun, an ironworks engineer.This engineer is familiar with the situation in Shanghai, and he hit it off with me immediately. He explained to me various new constructions in the Wusongkou area, which made my travels stronger. Jiang Xinlun's lounge is very beautiful: there are many sofas around, several tables and chairs in the middle, and seven or eight electric fans on top. Be careful not to slip when walking on the floor.I saw in the photos on the wall: this ship was originally sunk by enemy planes when it was first liberated, and it was picked up and repaired later, and it resumed sailing not long ago.One photo is the broken and incomplete hull that was just picked up, and the other photo is the brand new Jiangxin ship that has been rebuilt, which is the Jiangxin ship I am riding on now.I feel a kind of pride, proud of the indomitable working people. Xin Mei and his Czech-made accordion could not part with each other even for a day, and traveled around Mount Lushan with it on their backs.The sound of the accordion is as clear and bright as a harp, and as rich as a piano. It plays melodious tunes in the environment of cloudy mountains and vast rivers. It really has the concept of "high mountains and flowing water".I sipped my beer and listened to it for a while, and then I knocked on the side of the boat and sang a song about the Yangzi River written by Mr. Shen Xingong, which I learned in Shimenwan Primary School in my hometown when I was twelve or thirteen years old: The source is Qutang in the Xixia Gorge of Qinghai, where the snakes and pythons meander. Rolling down the Jingyang, the Yellow Sea is yellow for thousands of miles. Moisten the glory of the history of our motherland for thousands of years. I sang it several times, and then taught the accordion to follow the song. I think this song is really good; singing here today is more touching than when I sang it in elementary school half a century ago.The lyrics are completely Chinese style, every sentence is to the point, and the description is very concise; the sound of every sentence is very natural.In the school singing in the new era, I am afraid that there are not many such good songs.So I am lovingly reliving old songs here on deck.However, playing music, singing, and even talking here often feel a fly in the ointment.You say why: the loudspeakers everywhere are too loud, and the broadcast time is too long, almost all the time.There is a loudspeaker at the door of my room. If I sit by the door all day, my ears might be deafened.This equipment was originally very good: reporting the situation of the ship, notifying the time of dinner, and claiming lost and found are all beneficial to passengers.However, in addition to the report notice, he continued to play various popular records loudly, the sound was overwhelming, and everyone was forced to listen to it. This kind of excessive kindness is really hard to accept.I often want to make an opinion to the steamship authority, hoping that the broadcasting will be lighter and less.However, I don't know why, probably because most people would like it, so I didn't mention it in the end. The ship moored for an hour or two at several piers along the river.We went ashore for a walk in three places: Nanjing, Wuhu, and Anqing.It seems that there is an invisible rope tied to the body, and everyone dare not go far, just walk around the pier to buy some food or souvenirs.Nanjing is really a nostalgic place. When I set foot on its land, I was immediately fascinated by the ancient times of the Six Dynasties, Three Kingdoms, Spring and Autumn, Wu and Yue. .Seeing a green hill, ah, this is probably the Longpan Zhongshan that Zhuge Liang had seen!I happened to see Handan Road written on the door plate of a shop, how nostalgic the word Handan is!I bought a small knife as a souvenir of Nanjing and brought it back to the boat. My friends in the same boat said it was from Shanghai. There is no city street near the Wuhu ship wharf, and there are many stalls beside a rough road along the river.I ate a bowl of tofu flower on a burden at the end of the road and went back to the boat.Anqing's pier is very lively.We went ashore, squeezed our way through the crowd, walked into a side street, meandered to a high street, and bought many souvenirs in a grocery store, no matter where they came from.In front of many houses in the small streets of Anqing, I saw a kind of furniture that I had never seen in my life. It was a baby car.This car is cylindrical, with a circle on the top and a chassis on the bottom. Four pillars connect the circle and the chassis; There is a special device in front of the seat: a small board with a width of two or three inches is obliquely installed on the seat and the chassis, forming an angle of 40 to 50 degrees with the chassis. Slides in the children's park.When I first saw it, I didn't understand the significance of this slide, but when I thought about it, I suddenly realized its magical function.I remember standing buckets when I was a baby.This vertical bucket is higher than the tabletop, surrounded by boards, and has a drawer in the middle. My hand rests on the mouth of the bucket, and my feet stand in the drawer.There are many holes the size of longan on the bottom of the drawer, and there is a gray basket on the bottom of the bucket under the drawer, which is the magical effect.However, the car ride in Anqing is much better than the vertical barrel in Shimen Bay.This device was probably invented by the troubled working women here, right?An Qingzi seems to be troubled by many people. When I squeezed out of the pier just now, I saw many children aged five, six, or even three or four years old.These little children probably spilled out onto the wharf from distressed homes.I thought of Mr. Shao Lizi whom I hadn't seen for a long time. The days on board the ship were much longer than usual.Living on the ship for three days and two nights was better than living for a year and a half. I was familiar with all the places and made many new friends.However, this is still the prelude to the tour of Lushan Mountain.When I set foot on the land of Jiujiang, I felt a new kind of excitement, as if listening to a new program after listening to a program in a concert. 2. Impression of Jiujiang Jiujiang is a lovely place, even though the weather is ninety-five degrees, it is still lovely.As soon as we arrived at the guest house, we heard that the cars up the mountain were crowded, and we had to stay for two nights to get there. We have the opportunity to take a closer look at Jiujiang. "My home is near the Jiujiang River, and I come and go to the side of the Jiujiang River. We are both good at people, but we don't know each other when we were young." (Cui Hao) "The Xunyang River sees off guests at night, and the maple leaves and grass flowers rustle in autumn." (Bai Juyi) Jiujiang, who often acts as a model for poets, has been beautified by poems, and its charm still exists today more than a thousand years later.The streets are clean and the city is tidy; looking at the undulating hills and hills of Lushan Mountain, it looks like the north and south peaks; the Gantang Lake is the specific and small West Lake, and Jiujiang is actually a small Hangzhou.But that's second to none.Most of the men and women in Jiujiang are well-groomed.There are very few grotesque characters.Especially the women, no matter the women who gather by the Gantang Lake to wash clothes, or the women who are carrying baskets and carrying loads on the street, all of them have good looks and neat clothes.They all seemed to be schoolgirls.But that's also second to none.People in Jiujiang have a peaceful attitude and are especially polite to outsiders.This is the most valuable.When I fled through Jiangxi twenty years ago, a friend who fled told me: "Jiangxi people are hospitable." At that time, I helped the old and the young to rest in Pingxiang for more than a month, and I deeply felt that this sentence was correct.This is not because the landlords in Pingxiang (the landlords mean locals) and his wife are both my students, nor is it because "children everywhere know their names" (Mr. Ma Yifu's poem in Chinese).Regardless of whether they are acquaintances or not, the people of Pingxiang will always entertain them hospitablely.Now that I am in Jiujiang, the old impressions from twenty years ago are immediately revived.In Jiujiang, we have traveled all the streets and alleys, and we have also been to the railway station of Nanxun Railway.I paid careful attention, and everywhere lived a peaceful life, and I never heard the sound of fighting and cursing each other.Ask someone for directions, and he can't wait to send you to your destination.I am often amazed at the great influence of regional differences on customs and human feelings.Pingxiang and Jiujiang are far apart.However, within the same area of ​​Jiangxi Province, their customs and customs have something in common.I think the "hospitality" of Jiangxi people is indeed a virtue, which is worthy of praise and learning.I said that Jiujiang is a lovely place, and this is the main point. There are so many porcelain shops on Jiujiang Street, there are many porcelain stalls besides the porcelain shops.In addition to daily-use porcelain, there are many porcelain toys: cats, dogs, chickens, ducks, rabbits, cows, horses, portraits of children, women, equestrians, arhats, birthday stars, etc. , and most of them are glazed.This reminds me of Wuxi.There are many clay toy shops in Wuxi Huishan and other places, and there are also various images, all of which are colored.The difference is that porcelain and clay have different textures.In this kind of toy, you can get a glimpse of the ingenuity of Chinese craftsmen.None of them have entered the sculpture department of an art school, nor have they learned the basic exercises of sketching, nor have they studied anatomy for art.Most of these images resemble real objects, and most of them have graceful postures and are full of air.Compared with masonry, porcelain workers are, as far as I guess, more complicated and difficult.Because the mud is brittle, it can only create lumpy images like sitting cats and squatting rabbits.Porcelain is firm, and the four feet of a horse can also be molded.The eight horses in Jiujiang porcelain can best show the genius of craftsmen.The horses were not more than an inch and a half high, and they were either bent or reclined, standing or walking, with correct bones and active posture.We bought a lot, took them back to our apartment, and displayed them on the table to appreciate them carefully.Han Pa, a painter in the Tang Dynasty, was famous for his horse paintings.I haven't seen the authentic works of Papa Han, so I don't know how much better his graphic art is compared to the three-dimensional art of Jiangxi handicraft workers.Father Han was the grand palace in the court of Tang Minghuang.At that time, Tang Minghuang had a court painter named Chen Hong who was good at painting horses.One day Tang Minghuang ordered Father Han to learn how to draw horses from Chen Hong.Father Han refused to follow the edict, and replied to Tang Minghuang, "I have my own teachers. The horses in your majesty's stables are all teachers." Our craftsmen in Jiangxi are just like Father Han. horses as teachers, and their skills have been improved by observing and studying live horses.I think there must have been people as smart as Jiangxi porcelain craftsmen in the Tang Dynasty. Teaching them to pick up a paintbrush may not be as good as Han's father.It's just because they didn't become high-ranking officials like Father Han and couldn't get the emperor's appreciation, so they sank into oblivion all their lives; while Father Han was the only one lucky enough to be famous in later generations.Thinking about it this way, the history of art in an era with a bad social system was formed entirely by accident. We each paid a penny and took a boat to the Yanshui Pavilion in Gantang Lake to enjoy the cool air.This Yanshui pavilion is built on a small island like the pavilion in the West Lake of Hangzhou, surrounded by water, and it is all connected to the mainland of Jiujiang by ferry.The area of ​​this small island is less than half of the pavilion in the middle of the lake, but there are many trees.A bamboo couch is set up under the tree to sell tea.We lay on the bamboo couch drinking tea, surrounded by bright water and the sound of the wind, and the weather above ninety degrees did not feel hot.Several Jiujiang girls also ferry here to wash clothes under the shade of trees.On the water surface of the bank where each girl is located, layers of semicircular water waves are drawn with the girl as the center, like half a huge gramophone film.This scene is really picturesque. Lying on the bamboo couch, I accidentally raised my eyes and saw Mount Lushan.Tao Yuanming's "picking chrysanthemums under the eastern fence and seeing Nanshan leisurely" is probably this kind of state of mind.It is expected that at this time tomorrow, you must already be in the mountains, and you may have seen the true face of Mount Lu.3. Face of Lushan Mountain "Worrying about the wind and rain so close, you can't climb the Kuang Lu. I only suspect that there are still monks from the Six Dynasties in the clouds and mists." (Qian Qi) The poet of the Tang Dynasty told us "don't climb up". We didn't listen to him, and boarded the Kuang Lu by car within two hours.Within two hours, the climate quickly went from midsummer to late autumn.It was ninety-five degrees when I got in the car, I hid the fan in the car first, then added clothes, and it was only in the seventies when I got out of the car.When the car going to the third guest house drove through the downtown area on the main street, the first impression I had of Mount Lushan was a fairyland of Taoyuan: the land is flat and the houses look like houses; .But they were "surprised" when they saw that we were not there, because there were a lot of people going up the mountain for summer vacation, and the guest house was full of holes, so it was very difficult for them to reserve two rooms for us.Lushan Mountain is a summer resort, and it really lives up to its reputation.It was a sunny day.Looking out of the window, you can see towering ancient trees nearby, covered with green shade; in the distance, there are undulating hills and white clouds.Sometimes the forest in the area suddenly disappeared and turned into a sea of ​​clouds; sometimes a piece of white cloud suddenly dissipated and turned into many buildings.While staring, a white cloud slowly came and gathered into our room.If it is a secluded person, you must open the window wide and welcome it to come in and live together; but I am still a layman, so I quickly closed the window to thank the guests.I think that it is not easy to get a glimpse of the true face of Lushan Mountain, just because of these white clouds. There are many scenic spots and historical sites in Lushan Mountain, it is said that there are more than 200 places in total.But the places we visited within ten days were mainly Xiaotianchi, Huajing, Tianqiao, Xianrendong, Hanpokou, Huanglongtan, Wulongtan and so on.Xia Yu once climbed the Dahanyang Peak when he was controlling the water, Kuangsu of the Zhou Dynasty once lived in seclusion here, Master Huiyuan of the Jin Dynasty once planted pine trees at the gate of Donglin Temple, Wang Xizhi once washed ink in Guizong Temple, and Tao Yuanming once lived near the hot spring. Living in Lili Village, Li Bai used to study under Wulaofeng Peak, Bai Juyi once chanted peach blossoms in Huajing, Zhu Xi once gave lectures in Bailu Cave, Wang Yangming once took a walk in Sheshen Rock, Zhu Yuanzhang and Chen Youliang once fought on Tianqiao...there are countless historical sites.However, paying homage is quite troublesome. Besides, I am not a poet. These historical sites cannot inspire me, and it is useless to go to visit them.Sometimes my wife followed the children to seek secluded adventures, and I lay alone on the mountain tower at an altitude of 1,500 meters, looking at Lushan landscape photos and guide books. , the hustle and bustle disappeared, and the pillow mat was born in the cold, but it was a real summer escape.When I saw the photo of Tianqiao, You Xing mobilized, and one day I followed the children to look for it.When climbing up the cliff, a professor with the badge of Nanjing University told me: "The road above is difficult, old man, you don't have to go. The stone on the overpass probably has fallen down, it's just such a cliff." I looked up At first glance, it is really different from what you see in the photo: in the photo, there are two cliffs facing each other. A large stone bar protrudes from the cliff on the right, stretching out to the cliff on the left, but it does not reach it. Like too.However, there are no stone bars in the real scene, just two cliffs separated by a few zhang, and what we climbed is the cliff on the left.I thought: This place is called Tianqiao, probably the stone strip is the bridge, and now the bridge has fallen, we sat on the cliff and watched the clouds rise, lay down and listened to the birdsong, took a few more photos, and walked back to the apartment leisurely.During dinner, I asked the comrades from the Administration Bureau when the bridge fell, and he replied that there was no bridge in the first place, and the photo was taken from a certain angle.Ah, it suddenly dawned on me: the place where the Nanjing University professor was talking to me was a few tens of feet away from the cliff on the left. I did see a small stone stick sticking out in the air. If there is an appropriate place near the cliff, the perspective method cancels the distance between the stone strip and the cliff, and the photos I take are the ones I admire.I felt slightly offended, as if I had been duped by a commercial in a capitalist society.But as far as photography is concerned, I can't say it's hypocritical, just "too" ingenious.The name Tianqiao is also weird. Why is it called Tianqiao without a bridge? Looking at the Yangtze River on the left from Hanpokou and Poyang Lake on the right, the world is magnificent and must be seen. One day we really climbed to the pavilion of the highest peak.However, the white clouds made trouble and densely covered the rivers and lakes, refusing to show us.We drank tea in the pavilion and waited for a long time, but the white clouds did not disperse, and we looked down and saw nothing.At this time, a man came into the pavilion with a banana fan in his hand.He heard the five of us talking about Tubai, so he greeted me, saying that we were from the same village.It turned out that he was from Huzhou.Our Shimen Bay is close to the border of Huzhou, and our pronunciation is similar, so we chatted with him in Tubai.Tubai is really happy, every word is penetrating, and the extremely detailed thoughts and feelings can be fully expressed.This Huzhou guest is really good, every sentence is beautiful.He said that he lived in Shanghai, went to Hankou to visit his son, and went ashore at Jiujiang on his way home, and then took a trip to Mount Lushan.I asked him why he brought a plantain fan, and he replied that it has infinite uses: fan the wind when it is hot, shade when the sun is hot, replace an umbrella when it rains, and act as a cushion when resting. It is like the plantain fan of Living Buddha Jigong.So later when we talked about him, we called him Jigong Living Buddha.When telling each other about the tour, he said that he only went up the mountain yesterday morning, and he knew that the restaurant on the main street sold meal tickets at a specified time, so he bought the meal ticket at eleven o'clock, then bought a bottle of wine, and ran to Xiaotianchi , had a drink in front of the tomb of the revolutionary martyrs, took a tour, and then took the wine bottle back to the restaurant for lunch. I had a really happy lunch.I was so happy to hear that too. Baiyun just blocked the Yangtze River and Poyang Lake and refused to show us.It was late and the car was waiting at the foot of the mountain, so we had to say goodbye to Living Buddha Jigong and go back to the guest house.Since then, Jigong Living Buddha has become our conversation material.No name or address was asked, and there was little hope of seeing him again. We had already treated him as a character in a novel.Unexpectedly, there was a coincidence between heaven and earth: a few days later we went down the mountain, and when we were eating at the Xunlu Restaurant in Jiujiang, Jigong Living Buddha suddenly appeared again with a plantain fan.It turned out that he was also waiting for the boat back to Shanghai in Jiujiang.We told each other about the tour after our farewell.Single-handedly, this man went deep into the barren, and went to more places than us.I only remember him saying that once he walked alone to the top of an ancient pagoda, and a weasel jumped out of it. He called Huzhou Bai and said, "He was scared by Cang, and Cang was also scared by him!" I think it's poetry, but without Ye Yun.Song Yang Wanli's poem said: "When the mind goes to a place where there is no one, I am also surprised when the mountains and birds are startled." Isn't it just this kind of experience?Now some vernacular poems do not talk about Ye Yun, but just write each sentence in vernacular one line, a "but" occupies a line, and a "no" also occupies a line. I don't know what to say, I really don't understand. At this time, I thought: If you can speak as poetically as our Jigong Living Buddha, it's nothing if you don't have Ye Yun. Eating at Xunlu Restaurant in Jiujiang seems to be similar to eating in Shanghai.The food situation on the mountain is different: the third guest house we live in is three or four miles away from the main street, and there is no food around, so meals must be included in the guest house.The price is very cheap, and the food is also very rich.It's just that it's rationed, you can't order food, and the meal time is limited.It turns out that this is not a restaurant, but a dining hall, like a school dining hall.I have not lived in the dining room for forty years, and I feel quite rejuvenated.After running for three or four miles, there is a restaurant on the main street.However, this restaurant also has a limited time limit, and the supply is limited. If you don't buy tickets early, you will inevitably travel around the mountain.When we were on the ship, there were five or six shifts for meals, and each shift was limited to 20 minutes, and tickets had to be purchased in advance.There is a sign in the dining room not to drink alcohol.有一个乘客说："吃饭是一件任务。"我想：轮船里地方小，人多，倒也难怪；山上游览之区，饮食一定便当。岂知山上的菜馆不见得比轮船里好些。我很希望下年这种办法加以改善。为什么呢，这到底是游览之区！并不是学校或学习班！人们长年劳动，难得游山玩水，游兴好的时候难免把吃饭延迟些，跑得肚饥的时候难免想吃些点心。名胜之区的饮食供应倘能满足游客的愿望，使大家能够畅游，岂不是美上加美呢？然而庐山给我的总是好感，在饮食方面也有好感： 青岛啤酒开瓶的时候，白沫四散喷射，飞溅到几尺之外。我想，我在上海一向喝光明啤酒，原来青岛啤酒气足得多。回家赶快去买青岛啤酒，岂知开出来同光明啤酒一样，并无白沫飞溅。啊，原来是海拔一千五百公尺的气压的关系！庐山上的啤酒真好！ １９５６年９月作于上海 黄山松 没有到过黄山之前，常常听人说黄山的松树有特色。特色是什么呢？听别人描摹，总不得要领。所谓"黄山松"，一向在我脑际留下一个模糊的概念而已。这次我亲自上黄山，亲眼看到黄山松，这概念方才明确起来。据我所看到的，黄山松有三种特色： 第一，黄山的松树大都生在石上。虽然也有生在较平的地上的，然而大多数是长在石山上的。我的黄山诗中有一句： "苍松石上生。"石上生，原是诗中的话；散文地说，该是石罅生，或石缝生。石头如果是囫囵的，上面总长不出松树来；一定有一条缝，松树才能扎根在石缝里。石缝里有没有养料呢？I feel strange.生物学家一定有科学的解说；我却只有臆测：里有一种药叫做"石髓"。李时珍说： "《列仙传》言邛疏煮石髓。"可知石头也有养分。黄山的松树也许是吃石髓而长大起来的吧？长得那么苍翠，那么坚劲，那么窈窕，真是不可思议啊！更有不可思议的呢：文殊院窗前有一株松树，由于石头崩裂，松根一大半长在空中，象须蔓一般摇曳着。而这株松树照样长得郁郁苍苍，娉娉婷婷。这样看来，黄山的松树不一定要餐石髓，似乎呼吸空气，呼吸雨露和阳光，也会长大的。这真是一种生命力顽强的生物啊！ 第二个特色，黄山松的枝条大都向左右平伸，或向下倒生，极少有向上生的。一般树枝，绝大多数是向上生的，除非柳条挂下去。然而柳条是软弱的，地心吸力强迫它挂下去，不是它自己发心向下挂的。黄山松的枝条挺秀坚劲，然而绝大多数象电线木上的横木一般向左右生，或者象人的手臂一般向下生。黄山松更有一种奇特的姿态：如果这株松树长在悬崖旁边，一面靠近岩壁，一面向着空中，那么它的枝条就全部向空中生长，靠岩壁的一面一根枝条也不生。这姿态就很奇特，好象一个很疏的木梳，又象学习的"习"字。显然，它不肯面壁，不肯置身丘壑中，而一心倾向着阳光。 第三个特色，黄山松的枝条具有异常强大的团结力。狮子林附近有一株松树，叫做"团结松"。五六根枝条从近根的地方生出来，密切地偎傍着向上生长，到了高处才向四面分散，长出松针来。因此这一束树枝就变成了树干，形似希腊殿堂的一种柱子。我谛视这树干，想象它们初生时的状态：五六根枝条怎么会合伙呢？大概它们知道团结就是力量，可以抵抗高山上的风吹、雨打和雪压，所以生成这个样子。如今这株团结松已经长得很粗、很高。我伸手摸摸它的树干，觉得象铁铸的一般。即使十二级台风，漫天大雪，也动弹它不了。更有团结力强得不可思议的松树呢：从文殊院到光明顶的途中，有一株松树，叫做"蒲团松"。这株松树长在山间的一小块平坡上，前面的砂土上筑着石围墙，足见这株树是一向被人重视的。树干不很高，不过一二丈，粗细不过合抱光景。上面的枝条向四面八方水平放射，每根都伸得极长，足有树干的高度的两倍。这就是说：全体象个"丁"字，但上面一划的长度大约相当于下面一直的长度的四倍。这一划上面长着丛密的松针，软绵绵的好象一个大蒲团，上面可以坐四五个人。靠近山的一面的枝条，梢头略微向下。下面正好有一个小阜，和枝条的梢头相距不过一二尺。人要坐这蒲团，可以走到这小阜上，攀着枝条，慢慢地爬上去。陪我上山的向导告诉我："上面可以睡觉的，同沙发床一样。"我不愿坐轿，单请一个向导和一个服务员陪伴着，步行上山，两腿走得相当吃力了，很想爬到这蒲团上去睡一觉。然而我们这一天要上光明顶，赴狮子林，前程远大，不宜耽搁；只得想象地在这蒲团上坐坐，躺躺，就鼓起干劲，向光明顶迈步前进了。 黄山印象 看山，普通总是仰起头来看的。然而黄山不同，常常要低下头去看。因为黄山是群山，登上一个高峰，就可俯瞰群山。这教人想起杜甫的诗句"会当凌绝顶，一览众山小！"而精神为之兴奋，胸襟为之开朗。我在黄山盘桓了十多天，登过紫云峰、立马峰、天都峰、玉屏峰、光明顶、狮子林、眉毛峰等山，常常爬到绝顶，有如苏东坡游赤壁的"履版岩，披蒙茸，踞虎豹，登虬龙，攀栖鹘之危巢，俯冯夷之幽宫"。 在黄山中，不但要低头看山，还要面面看山。因为方向一改变，山的样子就不同，有时竟完全两样。例如从玉屏峰望天都峰，看见旁边一个峰顶上有一块石头很象一只松鼠，正在向天都峰跳过去的样子。这景致就叫"松鼠跳天都"。然而爬到天都峰上望去，这松鼠却变成了一双鞋子。又如手掌峰，从某角度望去竟象一个手掌，五根手指很分明。然而峰回路转，这手掌就变成了一个拳头。他如"罗汉拜观音"、"仙人下棋"、"喜鹊登梅"、"梦笔生花"、"鳌鱼驼金龟"等景致，也都随时改样，变幻无定。如果我是个好事者，不难替这些石山新造出几十个名目来，让导游人增加些讲解资料。然而我没有这种雅兴，却听到别人新取了两个很好的名目：有一次我们从西海门凭栏俯瞰，但见无数石山拔地而起，真象万笏朝天；其中有一个石山由许多方形石块堆积起来，竟同玩具中的积木一样，使人不相信是天生的，而疑心是人工的。导游人告诉我：有一个上海来的游客，替这石山取个名目，叫做"国际饭店"。我一看，果然很象上海南京路上的国际饭店。 有人说这名目太俗气，欠古雅。我却觉得有一种现实的美感，比古雅更美。又有一次，我们登光明顶，望见东海（这海是指云海）上有一个高峰，腰间有一个缺口，缺口里有一块石头，很象一只蹲着的青蛙。气象台里有一个青年工作人员告诉我：他们自己替这景致取一个名目，叫做"青蛙跳东海"。 我一看，果然很象一只青蛙将要跳到东海里去的样子。这名目取得很适当。 翻山过岭了好几天，最后逶迤下山，到云谷寺投宿。这云谷寺位在群山之间的一个谷中。由此再爬过一个眉毛峰，就可以回到黄山宾馆而结束游程了。我这天傍晚到达了云谷寺，发生了一种特殊的感觉，觉得心情和过去几天完全不同。起初想不出其所以然，后来仔细探索，方才明白原因：原来云谷寺位在较低的山谷中，开门见山，而这山高得很，用"万丈"、"插云"等语来形容似乎还嫌不够，简直可用"凌霄"、"逼天"等字眼。因此我看山必须仰起头来。古语云："高山仰止"，可见仰起头来看山是正常的，而低下头去看山是异常的。我一到云谷寺就发生一种特殊的感觉，便是因为在好几天异常之后突然恢复正常的原故。这时候我觉得异常固然可喜，但是正常更为可爱。我躺在云谷寺宿舍门前的藤椅里，卧看山景，但见一向异常地躺在我脚下的白云，现在正常地浮在我头上了，觉得很自然。它们无心出岫，随意来往；有时冉冉而降，似乎要闯进寺里来访问我的样子。我便想起某古人的诗句："白云无事常来往，莫怪山僧不送迎。"好诗句啊！ 然而叫我做这山僧，一定闭门不纳，因为白云这东西是很潮湿的。 此外也许还有一个原因：云谷寺是旧式房子，三开间的楼屋。我们住在楼下左右两间里，中央一间作为客堂；廊下很宽，布设桌椅，可以随意起卧，品茗谈话，饮酒看山，比过去所住的文殊院、北海宾馆、黄山宾馆趣味好得多。文殊院是石造二层楼屋，房间象轮船里的房舱或火车里的卧车：约一方丈大小的房间，中央开门，左右两床相对，中间靠窗设一小桌，每间都是如此。北海宾馆建筑宏壮，房间较大，但也是集体宿舍式的：中央一条走廊，两旁两排房间，间间相似。黄山宾馆建筑尤为富丽堂皇，同上海的国际饭店、锦江饭店等差不多。两宾馆都有同上海一样的卫生设备。这些房屋居住固然舒服，然而太刻板，太洋化；住得长久了，觉得仿佛关在笼子里。云谷寺就没有这种感觉，不象旅馆，却象人家家里，有亲切温暖之感和自然之趣。因此我一到云谷寺就发生一种特殊的感觉。云谷寺倘能添置卫生设备，采用些西式建筑的优点：两宾馆的建筑倘能采用中国方式，而加西洋设备，使外为中用，那才是我所理想的旅舍了。 这又使我回想起杭州的一家西菜馆的事，附说在此：此次我游黄山，道经杭州，曾经到一个西菜馆里去吃一餐午饭。 这菜馆采用西式的分食办法，但不用刀叉而用中国的筷子。这办法好极。原来中国的合食是不好的办法，各人的唾液都可能由筷子带进菜碗里，拌匀了请大家吃。西洋的分食办法就没有这弊端，很应该采用。然而西洋的刀叉，中国人实在用不惯，我们还是里筷子便当。这西菜馆能采取中西之长，创造新办法，非常合理，很可赞佩。当时我看见座上多半是农民，就恍然大悟：农民最不惯用刀叉，这合理的新办法显然是农民教他们创造的。 不肯去观音院 普陀山，是舟山群岛中的一个岛，岛上寺院甚多，自古以来是佛教胜地，香火不绝。浙江人有一句老话："行一善事，比南海普陀去烧香更好。"可知南海普陀去烧香是一大功德。 因为古代没有汽船，只有帆船；而渡海到普陀岛，风浪甚大，旅途艰苦，所以功德很大。现在有了汽船，交通很方便了，但一般信佛的老太太依旧认为一大功德。 我赴宁波旅行写生，因见春光明媚，又觉身体健好，游兴浓厚，便不肯回上海，却转赴普陀去"借佛游春"了。我童年时到过普陀，屈指计算，已有五十年不曾重游了。事隔半个世纪，加之以解放后普陀寺庙都修理得崭新，所以重游竟同初游一样，印象非常新鲜。 我从宁波乘船到定海，行程三小时；从定海坐汽车到沈家门，五十分钟；再从沈家门乘轮船到普陀，只费半小时。其时正值二月十九观世音菩萨生日，香客非常热闹，买香烛要排队，各寺院客房客满。但我不住寺院，住在定海专署所办的招待所中，倒很清静。 我游了四个主要的寺院：前寺、后寺、佛顶山、紫竹林。 前寺是普陀的领导寺院，殿宇最为高大。后寺略小而设备庄严，千年以上的古木甚多。佛顶山有一千多石级，山顶常没在云雾中，登楼可以俯瞰普陀全岛，遥望东洋大海。紫竹林位在海边，屋宇较小，内供观音，住居者尽是尼僧；近旁有潮音洞，每逢潮涨，涛声异常宏亮。寺后有竹林，竹竿皆紫色。我曾折了一根细枝，藏在衣袋里，带回去作纪念品。这四个寺院都有悠久的历史，都有名贵的古物。我曾经参观两只极大的饭锅，每锅可容八九担米，可供千人吃饭，故名曰"千人锅"。我用手杖量量，其直径约有两手杖。我又参观了一只七千斤重的钟，其声宏大悠久，全山可以听见。 这四个主要寺院中，紫竹林比较的最为低小；然而它的历史在全山最为悠久，是普陀最初的一个寺院。而且这开国元勋与日本人有关。有一个故事，是紫竹林的一个尼僧告诉我的，她还有一篇记载挂在客厅里呢。这故事是这样： 千余年前，后梁时代，即公历九百年左右，日本有一位高僧，名叫慧锷的，乘帆船来华，到五台山请得了一位观世音菩萨像，将载回日本去供养。那帆船开到莲花洋地方，忽然开不动了。这慧锷法师就向观音菩萨祷告："菩萨如果不肯到日本去，随便菩萨要到哪里，我和尚就跟到哪里，终身供养。"祷告毕，帆船果然开动了。随风飘泊，一直来到了普陀岛的潮音洞旁边。慧锷法师便捧菩萨像登陆。此时普陀全无寺院，只有居民。有一个姓张的居民，知道日本僧人从五台山请观音来此，就捐献几间房屋，给他供养观音像。又替这房屋取个名字，叫做"不肯去观音院"。慧锷法师就在这不肯去观音院内终老。这不肯去观音院是普陀第一所寺院，是紫竹林的前身。紫竹林这名字是后来改的。有一个人为不肯去观音院题一首诗： 借问观世音，因何不肯去？ 为渡大中华，有缘来此地。 如此看来，普陀这千余年来的佛教名胜之地，是由日本人创始的。可见中日两国人民自古就互相交往，具有密切的关系。我此次出游，在宁波天童寺想起了五百年前在此寺作画的雪舟，在普陀又听到了创造寺院的慧锷。一次旅行，遇到了两件与日本有关的事情，这也可证明中日两国人民关系之多了。不仅古代而已，现在也是如此。我经过定海，参观鱼场时，听见渔民说起：近年来海面常有飓风暴发，将渔船吹到日本，日本的渔民就招待这些中国渔民，等到风息之后护送他们回到定海。有时日本的渔船也被飓风吹到中国来，中国的渔民也招待他们，护送他们回国。劳动人民本来是一家人。 不肯去观音院左旁，海边上有很长、很广、很平的沙滩。 较小的一处叫做"百步沙"，较大的一处叫做"千步沙"。潮水不来时，我们就在沙上行走。脚踏到沙上，软绵绵的，比踏在芳草地上更加舒服。走了一阵，回头望望，看见自己的足迹连成一根长长的线，把平净如镜的沙面划破，似觉很可惜的。沙地上常有各种各样的贝壳，同游的人大家寻找拾集，我也拾了一个藏在衣袋里，带回去作纪念品。为了拾贝壳，把一片平沙踩得破破烂烂，很对它不起。然而第二天再来看看，依旧平净如镜，一点伤痕也没有了。我对这些沙滩颇感兴趣，不亚于四大寺院。 离开普陀山，我在路途中作了两首诗，记录在下面： 一别名山五十春，重游佛顶喜新晴。 东风吹起千岩浪，好似长征奏凯声。 寺寺烧香拜跪勤，庄严宝岛气氤氲。 观音颔首弥陀笑，喜见群生乐太平。 回到家里，摸摸衣袋，发见一个贝壳和一根紫竹，联想起了普陀的不肯去观音院，便写这篇随笔。