Home Categories Essays Tibetan Love: A Private Feast in Shambhala

Chapter 29 A small town beside Ranwu Lake

Recalling the journey along the way, after entering Tibet, I seem to have no interest in looking around and playing around. I don’t know if it’s because the most beautiful scenery is behind me, or because I don’t have any companions to share the scenery. . When we were in Gannan, we imagined with Guan Yuan that we would raise a flock of sheep there, open a hotel, and spend the rest of our lives peacefully.Right now, there is no one who can go crazy together, make noise together, and swear swearingly together.What's even more ridiculous is that the name Dong Xiang appears more and more frequently in my mind.

The streets of Basu County are very clean and tidy, a Lengqu River runs through the territory, lonely, just like my journey these days.It is said that it was also the starting point for the construction of the southern Sichuan-Tibet line.The owner of the hotel said that in the lower reaches of the Lengqu River, there was a stone shaped like Wukong in the middle of the river. I got up the next day, went to get my motorcycle back, replenished food, made a pot of hot coffee, and then set off. When we got out of Basu, we met Sun Hao, the number of their convoy was reduced, and Meizi was not seen.When he saw me, he greeted me very kindly, stepped forward and patted the rear of my car, and said:

"Not bad! When did you get a car?" He said that his teammates were in various states along the way, Meizi was still resting in Zuogong, and might not leave again.They hitchhiked for a while and would ride all the way to Lhasa. Not long after we walked, it started to rain. After going uphill and downhill for a while, we arrived at Wang Pai Bridge.According to legend, when Jinzhu Mami went to Tibet to liberate millions of serfs, a member of the 18th Army named Wang Paichang died in the cold Lengqu River, so this "Wang Pai Bridge" came into being. When we arrived in Jeddah Township, Sun Hao and the others were going to rest for a while, so we bid farewell.After that, probably because the direction was different after arriving in Bomi, I never met him again.

Today's road condition is very good, even if it is going up, the slope is not very steep.On the way, Tibetans going to Lhasa are indispensable.There are still families traveling together, and some traveling alone.I once met a man who was said to be a joint venture of people from the whole village, so he was selected to kowtow to Lhasa alone to pray for blessings.He carried everyone's wishes, and took every step very steadily. I heard that many people have encountered special Tibetan customs on this road.Someone saw a Tibetan wedding, where everyone was dancing in bright red long-sleeved dresses.Someone saw a motorcycle team composed of Tibetans, and each car was decorated.Some people saw the activities of Tibetans in the river valley. Tents painted with colorful pictures formed a circle, and there were bonfires, singing and dancing inside.

I didn't meet anything, and although the journey was monotonous, I was content. Here, passing the very famous 3838 milestone on the Internet.It was filled with messy drawings, and even the handwriting was smeared so that it could not be seen clearly.I don't understand, why is it so talked about here? Not far ahead, you will arrive at the watershed between the Nujiang River and the Yarlung Zangbo River - Anjiula Mountain. Compared with the passes that have been turned over before, this mountain is surprisingly flat.Fortunately, there is a sign with an altitude of more than 4,000 meters to remind me that this is the top of the mountain.

After passing the pass, the road down the mountain has a river on one side and a mountain on the other.I slowed down the speed of the car and moved forward slowly. After going down the mountain, there are high mountains on both sides, and there is a hair-thin road between the valleys. The north side of the road less than four meters is a deep ditch of tens of feet.This is the dangerous road section "Ranwugou" that made the predecessors fearful. There is a saying among drivers who often come to this section of the road, "Don't be afraid of the sky, don't be afraid of the earth, just be afraid of Ranwu to Zhongba".

Fortunately, it is not snowy weather now, and a promenade has been built to prevent rain and falling rocks.When passing the promenade, you can hear the sound of stones rolling down from the top of the mountain from time to time. Walking out of the corridor, you can see Ranwu Town. There is also a quotation from Chairman Mao on the side of the road, which reads: "We are not only good at destroying an old world, we are also good at building a new world." It is really inspiring! Ranwu means "a sink made of copper" in Tibetan.According to legend, a long time ago, the mountain peaks in the lower reaches of Ranwu formed a cliff, which isolated Ranwu into a secluded boudoir, where everyone was rich and happy.On a certain autumn harvest day, a village woman accidentally dropped a bundle of wheat ears and floated down the river to the outside world, where she was discovered by a young man.The young man found that the ears of wheat were full and huge, unlike anything in the world, so he led a group of young men to trek through mountains and rivers and discovered Ranwu.In autumn, Ranwu is golden, and the terrain is long and narrow, and the hot spring water vapor is dense, like a copper tank, so the place name Ranwu spread.

It is said that the phenomenon of men and women bathing together and people and snakes bathing together can be seen so far.Of course, I didn't go to see it myself. However, Wuzhen is very small, it seems that there is only one street. I found a hotel to stay in, washed my face, and shook the dust off my body.By the time I felt refreshed, it was almost eleven o'clock.I went downstairs to find something to eat, then headed to Ranwu Lake. Ranwu means "a lake where corpses are piled together". It is said that there is a buffalo in the lake and a yellow ox on the shore of the lake. They compete with each other to see whose horns are stronger.After the two cows died, they turned into mountains, and between the two mountains is Ranwu Lake.In fact, because it is located in southern Tibet where geological movements are active, Ranwu Lake is a barrier lake formed by landslides or mud-rock flows blocking the river.

According to the introduction of the scenic spot, it is very beautiful here, and the lake water is pure and free of impurities.Not only the surface of the lake is like a mirror, but also the grassland beside the lake is like a carpet of grass, the blue sky and snow peaks, and the scenery is picturesque.However, in reality, it is a famous water burial ground in southeast Tibet. I can hardly imagine that there will be such a beautiful scenery here. When I arrived at Ranwu Lake, I felt that the introduction of the scenic spot was really exaggerated.Having seen so many beautiful alpine lakes before, this place is really disappointing.

However, if you walk quietly by the lake, you will feel that there is no noise here, so it looks simple and beautiful.The snow-capped mountains on the opposite bank looked at you without saying a word, and the shadows swayed gently in the lake. There is Gangrigabu Snow Mountain in the southwest of the lake, Azagonla Glacier in the south, and Boshula Ridge in the northeast. Their melted ice and snow together constitute the supply water source of Ranwu Lake. The most beautiful thing here is probably the myths and legends.According to legend, there is a mountain between Kangsha and Ranwu, and apes with strong imitation ability live on the mountain. After imitating human behavior, they destroy it and interfere with the order of human life.Later, all the men in the village went to the mountains to brew highland barley wine and made many wooden knives and swords.After that, they drank a lot on the mountain, and after drinking, they fought with wooden swords.During the duel, people pretended to fall to the ground and died, and then left many real swords on the mountain.At night, the apes began to imitate and duel after drinking heavily.In the end, there was only one ape left. It was very sad when it saw that all its kind had died, and ran to the mountain wall in despair.Later, people called this mountain Ape Meeting Mountain.

I didn't stop much. Starting from Ranwu Town, I went in two different directions along Ranwu Lake to Wa Village and Laigu Village.Since I went west to Bomi the next day, I could stop by Wa Village to have a look. This afternoon, I decided to go to Laigu Village. It is said that Laigu Village is surrounded by four snow-capped mountains, and its reputation comes from the Laigu Glacier, which is known as one of the three major glaciers in the world.Going south along Ranwu Lake, the scenery gradually becomes beautiful.The primeval forest by the lake gives people a sense of tranquility. The condition of this section of the road was very bad. I had to hold my motorcycle on the side of the road and wait to see if there was a self-driving car going to Laigu.At this time, when I think of the journeys with Tang Li and Luo Bing, I feel so wonderful!After that, although I was lucky along the way, there was no crisis, but I didn't have the feeling of the time with them, and my heart was always full of warmth. Later, I waited for a broken jeep belonging to a villager in Laigu Village, paid him 300 yuan, and agreed that when I came back, he would have to send me back to where I was. It costs 30 yuan to enter the village. When I paid, the villagers had to leave, and they agreed to wait at the same place in two hours.I was afraid that he would not come, so I asked him to exchange Tibetan knives.It is said that their beloved Tibetan knives are reluctant to give away indiscriminately. From the place where tickets are sold to Laigu Village, there is still a mountain road, but my motorcycle is enough to handle it.Some children asked for stationery on the road. I only brought two pens and gave them one. In the village, the residents are working, and there is a scene of self-sufficiency and living and working in peace and contentment.From time to time, family members can be heard calling for their children, and sometimes folk songs float over. Here, you can see the huge fan-shaped glaciers pushed down by the snow-capped mountains, which are collectively called Laigu glaciers.At the end of the glacier, ice lakes are formed one by one.The glacial lake refracts different colors, and faint blue light can be seen where the glacier meets the glacial lake. Looking at the ancient glacier, it is like an ink painting.It is said that those blacks are silt and gravel. In order to avoid it being too late to go back, I took the time to leave Laigu Village. The Tibetan who charged me 300 yuan did not show up. I was depressed when someone patted me on the shoulder suddenly.It was a strange Tibetan. He took out my Tibetan knife from his pocket and said that the original person had something to do and asked him to carry me. Regardless of whether he is for his own hidden knife or to keep his promise, someone can finally send me back. Back in Ranwu Town, I took a good hot bath.In the evening, eating delicious noodles, I thought of Solang Mutso who was helping out at the noodle shop.I don't know if he is dancing enthusiastically by the campfire again at this moment? The next day, I will go to Bomi. For some reason, the closer I got to the end of my travel plan, the more uneasy I felt.Shambhala collects the most beautiful scenery in the world, absorbs the purest beliefs, but also provides the most rugged roads, allowing worshipers to crawl forward, measure its height and majesty with footsteps and body, and exchange true feelings for a piece of land. The pure land of the soul.Bomi, the ancient call, is just around the corner.
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