Chapter 21 Kangba man in the snowy holy land

Until a long, long time later, I was still glad to have met Tang Li and Luo Bing.If it weren't for these two master drivers, maybe I wouldn't be able to complete the rest of the journey, and I wouldn't be able to reach the holy place in my heart - Medog. The road to Litang made us understand that people need companions.In difficult times, it may be difficult for one person to get through, but one more person will have more strength. Only by supporting and encouraging each other can we move forward together. On the way back to Xinduqiao from Litang, Tang Li remained silent and did not speak.After passing Xindu Bridge, I realized that he was accumulating strength, because after crossing Xindu Bridge, he had to climb Gaoersi Mountain, which is more than 4,000 meters above sea level.

This section of the road is a famous section of the Sichuan-Tibet South Line. There are rich vegetation along the road. When driving upwards, you can see the top of the mountain covered with hairy meadows. The top of the mountain is the natural barrier of Kangding and Yajiang counties. Although this section of the journey is an asphalt road, there are many ups and downs on the road. In addition, the large trucks entering Tibet come and go, and the pressure of the load deforms the road surface, which is not smooth. In order to relieve the nervousness, Tang Li stuffed a disc, which was a song by Dao Lang.

I remember, five years ago when I went to Jiuzhaigou from Chengdu, the master also played Daolang's song, stepped on the beat and drove forward, humming a few words happily from time to time.Seeing me secretly laughing, the master also smiled heartily: "Little girl, we all like to listen to grassland songs here. Daolang's is also good! If it were replaced by the popular songs you sing, we would definitely fall asleep!" Ha ha." Music is really a wonderful thing.For example, when traveling between these mountains, sometimes at the bottom and sometimes at the peak, Dao Lang's songs especially complement each other.

Tang Li drove very slowly, and Luo Bing didn't speak.Only Dao Lang's singing is floating, but it's like a concert with no one watching. I leaned back on the chair, and suddenly lamented in my heart the greatness of human beings and the uncanny craftsmanship of nature.To break the silence, I said, "Let me tell you a joke!" At this moment, out of the corner of my eye, I suddenly caught a glimpse of the window, "Wow! It's so beautiful!" I exclaimed.At this time, we are already on the mountain peak, with a beautiful sea of ​​clouds floating in the valley, as if we have arrived at the abode of the gods.

Luo Bing laughed: "What? This should be one of the shortest jokes in the world!" I was still immersed in the beautiful scenery and said: "Look! How spectacular!" Not long after, I saw many felled tree trunks lying on the side of the road, which had begun to rot after being soaked by rain. Tang Li said: "The mountains here are heavily felled. Those are timber that the locals cannot transport away." After passing the pass of Gaoersi Mountain, I saw a few Tibetans kowtowing.Tang Li said, these are people who went to Lhasa to pray for blessings. The plateau red flying on the faces of Tibetans always makes me feel kind.They dragged large bags of belongings, and there was a small child beside them.Whenever a car passed by, the child stared curiously with his dark eyes.

I asked Tang Li to stop the car, grabbed a handful of lollipops and handed them to the child accompanying his parents through the window. After going down the mountain, we arrived at Yajiang County. Yajiang River is one of the important ferry crossings of Yalong River. It was the land of White Wolf in Eastern Han Dynasty.The houses in the county are built on the hillside, which is a bit like Little Potala. It is said that this is a city of dancing, and all the residents in the city are good at singing and dancing.The popular Guozhuang, Xianzi, folk songs, wine songs and hoop hexagrams in Tibetan areas are of course not to mention. There is also a unique mandarin duck dance called "stomping and kicking Zhuo". The male and female dancers are very close and close.

Here, there are several major schools of Tibetan Buddhism, and people paint various totems on doors, windows, wall cabinets, pots and pans. Because it was too late, we decided to rest in Yajiang for one night and set off again the next day. Yajiang is located in the transition zone between alpine valleys and grasslands, and the terrain is very complex.Because it is on the ancient tea-horse road, the cultural landscape is particularly rich. I have been asking the shopkeeper about the special features of Yajiang all night. The shop owner is a beautiful Han woman. She told me that in Yajiang County, there is a Kangba Hanzi village called "Eluodui Village".The big men in the village are all hulking and heroic.Their hair is coiled into a lotus shape with silk tassels, and there are also coral, ivory and gold and silver rings, very majestic and healthy!

In addition, there are many alpine lakes on the hills around the Huoqu River, which is tens of kilometers long.Those sky-blue lakes reflect splendor. The most desirable is one of the sacred mountains - Mount Ani Qingbo.On that cliff, there is a kingdom of vultures.The awe-inspiring cliffs are white with their droppings. Every scenic spot in Yajiang has a special legend, but unfortunately we don't have so much time to experience them one by one. For example, we can only wave our hands at the ancient holy mountain shaped like a big roc, and the world's highest town, Red Dragon, where the white vulture once inhabited.

I met Tang Li and Luo Bing early the next morning, and Luo Bing was driving today.Out of Yajiang County is Scissors Bend Mountain. We moved forward along the ancient tea-horse road. It is said that there are five relics left by the ancient tea-horse road in Yajiang County.Li Bao, a poet of the Qing Dynasty, wrote a poem about this: "The hungry horse hates the short grass, and the servant suffers from poor clothes; the sad song is fierce and the tiger walks, and the road is difficult to travel with melancholy." Compared with the hardships and sorrows of the past, it is a world of difference now, and the difficulty of the feasible road can still be seen.

Jianziwan Mountain is one of the highest mountain passes where National Highway 318 passes through the Kham area. Its Tibetan name is "Jamana Zha", which means Yangzi Mountain Pass.According to legend, the third Dalai Lama went to Beijing to have an audience with the emperor, and on his return journey across the Yalong River, he almost fell into the river.The third Dalai Lama was able to escape with the full protection of the Dharma protector Akudangji.When they reached the mountain pass, the mount Shenyang was tired, so the Dalai Lama and his entourage rested here. Along the way, I saw a lot of nima piles.This is for the Tibetans to worship the mountain god and pray for a safe journey.

In the territory of Yajiang, there is Guosa Temple, the first ancient temple in Kangnan.It is said that this is because Akudangji, who escorted the third Dalai Lama, was left out when the Dharma protectors of all walks of life accepted the Dalai Lama’s rewards. In order to apologize, the Dalai Lama offered Hada, and used the temple on the back of the mountain as a place dedicated to Akudangji. temple. This is the famous Guosa Temple. The jeep travels through the rolling alpine meadows.The round mountain head is covered with a layer of camel hair, giving people a smooth and soft feeling. In early autumn, yellow and green complement each other.On the Panshan Highway, warning signs are seen from time to time, and the wreckage of some accident vehicles can also be seen.We have to be careful. The second highest mountain today is Mount Kazila.Looking from the window, you can see a slowly moving black cloud in the distance, which is a herd of yaks on the meadow. After passing the Kazila Pass, there is the highest-altitude Jianziwan radar station.Radar set up an Aimin tea station by the side of the road.Looking at the one-story house with the blue roof, I can't help admiring the soldiers who have been waiting in this alpine area all year round. We all breathed a sigh of relief as we descended from the mountain pass. Luo Bing opened the window slightly, Tang Li lit two cigarettes and handed one to Luo Bing.I also feel better. Tang Li turned his head and asked me: "Where is your destination this time? We will return to Chengdu after visiting Daocheng Yading." In the past few days of knowing them, we had very few conversations. Suddenly, we were about to part. I opened my mouth for a long time and didn't make a sound. Tang Li seemed to see my hesitation, and asked, "Do you still have a long way to go?" I nodded and said yes, "I want to go to Medog." Luo Bing shook his head at this moment and said, "Are you a girl going to Medog? Do you know how to get there?" "The bus is running now, I'll take a ride to a nearby place." Tang Li said: "Shuttle buses are inconvenient in many places. In fact, you can ask other tourists when you are staying to see if there are any tourists coming by car, and share a car with others." "Yes, this is also a way. But I am lucky to meet people like you. Many people come by car, and the car is overcrowded!" Tang Li and Luo Bing laughed after hearing this. After the jeep turned a corner, a vast river valley and grassland appeared before our eyes. Where the grassland is connected to the sky are snow-capped mountains, white sky, blue mountains, and some red roofs scattered on the yellow-green grassland. The vehicle drove down the road, and after passing the archway of the world's tallest city, we officially arrived at Litang, the pearl on the grassland! This is the hometown of the 7th Dalai Lama, the 10th Dalai Lama and the 7th, 8th and 9th Pabala Hutuktu. It is "China High City, Snowy Holy Land, Grassland Pearl". After entering Litang, we hurried to find a place to fill our stomachs.Since Tang Li and Luo Bing didn't want me to share the gas bill, I secretly rushed to pay the bill.Meeting by chance, I have already gained a lot of benefits from others, and I have no reason to continue to take advantage of others. The streets of Litang County are very spacious and the city appearance is very clean, unlike a small county. Since ancient times, it has been a tea-horse trade market and a "auspicious treasure land" where merchants gather.Outside the county seat is a vast grassland, with small rivers winding through the middle.Every August, the "Litang Bayi Horse Racing Festival" is held on the grassland.It is said that the scene was very spectacular at that time, with thousands of tents dotted all over.It is often said that this is a nation on horseback, and Litang is also known as the "hometown of equestrianism" as a descendant of King Gesar.It's a pity that it's the end of September now, and I haven't been able to catch up with the horse racing festival to feast my eyes. After drinking and eating, we were all a little tired, so we found a guest house to stay. After a short rest, I knocked on the door of Tang Li's room and asked them if they were interested in visiting the Litang Temple on the hillside in the north of the city.Luo Bing seemed to be feeling unwell and was already lying down. Tang Li took the car keys and went out with me. Litang Temple, also known as Changchun Keer Temple, was originally a temple of the Black Sect. When the third Dalai Lama passed by during the Wanli period of the Ming Dynasty, it was changed to the Yellow Sect and consecrated for it.Therefore, Litang Temple is also known as the "Holy Land of the Yellow Sect in Kangnan". The temples of Litang Temple are almost the same as those I saw in Gannan, perhaps because they are all Huangjiao temples with similar styles.In the temple, there are precious cultural relics such as gilded bronze statues of Sakyamuni, Buddhist classics, saddles used by the third Dalai Lama and murals from the Ming and Qing Dynasties.Here, too, the Butter Flower Fair is held every year on the fifteenth day of the first lunar month in the Tibetan calendar. Sitting in front of the gate of Litang Temple, Tang Li took off his woolen scarf and wrapped it around my neck very gentlemanly.I read Tsangyang Gyatso's poem to him: "Give me a pair of white crane wings, I want to fly to a distant place, I will not go anywhere else, just take a look at the beautiful Litang..." Then smile at each other. In the later journeys, whenever I felt difficult to move forward, I would think of this picture. Although there may be no chance to meet again after the farewell, I still remember the rare moment of warmth on this plateau. After coming down from Litang Temple, Tang Li said that there is a famous geothermal hot spring near the county seat, so we went back to the guest house to wake up Luo Bing, and we went to relax together. Maoya Hot Spring has many indoor and outdoor hot spring pools.There are also hot springs in my hometown, but on this plateau, after days of travel fatigue, I can soak in the hot spring for an hour, and all the tiredness of the body disappears. When we came out of the hot spring, the boss reminded us to pack tightly and don't catch a cold. I went to a restaurant to eat beef noodles at night. A bowl of beef noodles also took half an hour to cook because of the low pressure on the plateau.I think of the eight monsters of Litang mentioned on the Internet: ordering food at noon and eating at night—it’s really slow, and the lights are turned off when the guests enter the door—it’s too dark, and the table is done after finishing one table—it’s really greedy, temporary changes are not allowed— ——It’s awesome, the bread won’t go bad for a few days——It’s fresh, the fried rice is wrapped in paper——It’s really dry, I’m going around you to check it out without discussing it——It’s amazing, the street is like a meeting of all nations——It’s really busy! Just when Tang Li and Luo Bing were laughing out loud because of what I said, the young man raised his face to his eyes.I saw his hands turned purple from the cold, so I raised my head and asked him, "Is it cold?" The young man shook his head and smiled shyly. It was still early after dinner, so we invited the young man to sit down and chat together. His name is Suolang Mucuo, he lives in Batang, and he comes to help out in my aunt's restaurant.I asked him, do you know Phuntsok Wangyal?He nodded, and chattered a lot excitedly, but we didn't understand a word, and the three of us looked at each other and smiled. Suolang Mucuo seemed to realize it too, scratched the back of his head in embarrassment, and said in a word: "He is our hero in Batang, and we all love him." Tang Li patted Suolang Mucuo's shoulder, and squeezed that thick muscle appreciatively.He has the unique strength and fitness of a Kham man, and his graceful body curves cannot be covered by cotton clothes. I took out a lollipop, one for each of us, and when I handed it to Suolang Mucuo, he was embarrassed to stretch out his hand. I smiled and stuffed it into his hand and said, "You're welcome!" At this time, Suolang Mucuo's aunt called him, probably in need of help.The three of us also said goodbye and went back to the guest house to rest.