Chapter 27 Baked Spring Cake · Steamed Pot Shop · Combined Vegetables

According to the old custom in Peiping, once the Lantern Festival is celebrated every year, the year will be over.Some people are away from home and don’t have time to go home for the New Year, or they have filial piety, and they are afraid of being tabooed, and they don’t pay New Year’s greetings because they are afraid that their relatives and friends will criticize them, saying that they are not polite, so there are still many people who pay New Year’s greetings.People in Peiping have an unwritten rule that as long as the grass is not higher than the donkey's hooves, if you visit your relatives and friends for New Year greetings before Qingming Festival, they will still treat you like guests in the New Year.

The folk customs in the north are simple. Once the lights are off on the Lantern Festival, all walks of life will return to normal. They live at home, and of course the three meals a day are still the same, and the life of simple tea and light meals is restored.During the Spring Festival Gala in the north, from after the Lantern Festival to before the Qingming Festival, if guests from afar come to pay their respects to their old age, the easiest thing to do is to bake some spring cakes and order a zygote dish to entertain them.Households in the north, what kind of homemade cakes, green onion cakes, dough cakes, and shortbreads, some use a pan, and some use a stove (produced by Beiping Zhaitang, which is a special product in the west of Beijing like the casserole), but it is necessary to mention eating spring pancakes , unless there is a master chef at home, or nine out of ten, the steamer shop must be taken care of.

Speaking of steamed pot shop, it is also a kind of business that is not found in other places. Since it is called steamed pot shop, it is naturally mainly steamed food.In addition to selling steamed buns, every morning before dawn, a large number of red bean paste triangles, red bean paste buns, brown sugar and white sugar sugar triangles, flowering steamed buns, mixed sugar steamed buns, and rolls of salt and pepper are also steamed for hawkers to sell on the street. .In addition, steaming longevity peaches on behalf of customers or mixing fillings yourself, sending them to the steamer shop for steaming, and charging a fee for each is also one of their jobs.The buns steamed in a steamer are different from ordinary buns. They are all high-piled. The pleats on the buns are fine and dense. Even the red dots on the buns are exquisite.It is a little scarlet, bright and bright, and old Peiping can tell at a glance that it is a masterpiece from the steamer shop.

In addition to steaming food and the food-protecting Jiangmi people who chanted scriptures and put the flames in the mouth, the steamer shops in Beiping also have pancakes, sugar cakes with sesame paste, and green onion cakes in oil.You can also bring your own sesame paste, brown sugar, fat, and chopped green onion, or ask him to do it for you. The baked cakes are much better than our own baked cakes.When it comes to making spring pancakes, it is a specialty of the steamer shop. They bake spring pancake flour in kilograms, and every two pieces are called a combination.According to the size of the spring cakes, they are divided into three types: eight-fold, ten-fold, and twelve-fold. The more the number of combinations, the fewer the number of sheets.Baking twelve per catty is the smallest spring pancake, no matter how small it is, it can't be rolled with vegetables, so it can only be eaten with roast duck.

Although machine-cut foreign white noodles became popular in the early years of the Republic of China, some people still felt that stretched noodles were chewy and chewy (meaning chewy in Peking dialect).Most of them don't know how to stretch noodles at home, so stretching noodles has become one of the business items of Steamed Pot Shop.If you want to eat some noodles with fried sauce, you must choose the pot (the noodles that do not pass the water in Beiping are called pot picks), so that the flavor of the noodles can be brought out, so the small bowl of diced meat and minced meat dry fried also please ask the steamer shop Agency.

People pay attention to eating spring pancakes. In addition to stir-frying Japanese vegetables, spreading a plate of eggs, and frying shredded pork with chives, zygote dishes are an indispensable main course.In Beiping, general soy sauce and knuckle shops sell Hezi dishes. The most famous ones are Tianfu and Taihefang in the west city, Baohuazhai in the east city, Qingyun Tower in the north city, and Bianyifang in the south city.The quality of zygote dishes is different, and there are more or less types. There are at least seven kinds in a zygote, and there are at most 15 kinds. Of course, the price tag is not the same.Once upon a time, there was a joke in mainland Peking opera called "Send the Zygote", which tells the story of a young woman who invites someone to have a drink, asks the Zhezi shop to deliver a Zygote dish, and shakes her teeth and mouth with Xiaoli who delivers the Zodiac, which is full of humor.However, there are a few puns in it, which are relatively yellow. If they can be deleted and purified, it will be a good show for eliminating phlegm and qi.The recent Peking Opera stage performances of "Beat the Noodle Tank", "Double Shake Club", "Little Chinese New Year", and "Continuously Promoted to Three Levels" all won laughter from the audience. Twenty or so anti-erotic dramas are easier for the public to accept.

Peking famous ticket Mo Jingyi (Xu Sheng) and Shi Zhesheng (Wu Sheng) are all particular about eating and drinking, and they often spend their time at the box office in Yueyaer Hutong.One year after the Spring Festival, the box office had its first rehearsal. After the show ended, Dian Shi invited me to eat spring pancakes. They said that Wang Huafu (clown) and Yu Jingchen (Lao Dan) were waiting for us at Zuixianju on Yandaixie Street. .At that time, I thought that Zuixianju was a two-meat shop, where did the spring pancakes come from?When we arrived at Zuixianju, Wang Yu and Wang Yu had already sat down to drink tea and waited for a long time. Wang Huafu said to me: "Today, I will let you eat a different kind of zygote dish." Moreover, Shang, plain lacquer Zhidan, is antique and very different from ordinary colored paintings.Although there are only nine kinds of dishes, there are no dragon patterns and phoenix colors on the wooden trays of the dishes. All the paintings are flat sand, eyeless, cattle and horses, and hunting figures with red headbands and crowns.The group vegetables are also ordinary, there is only one piece of smoked wild goose wings, although the smoke is very tasty, but wild goose wings are never served as a combination dish.The main grid looks like a small fried shrimp ball, and it looks like a tiger skin pigeon egg, which is soft and crispy in the mouth. What kind of delicacy and jade food is it really puzzles the author.

Mo Jinglao said: "Hezicai is a special 'Jingcai' made by a neighbor called Jinbaozhai Hezipu. Jinbaozhai is a long-established brand, because it needs to clear the bottom of the shop and report business income tax. Chen Tongwen, an accountant of Mo Jingyi's cousin, cleaned it up. , only to find out that Jinbaozhai opened in the Zhizheng period of the Yuan Dynasty. The result of the conversion is to pay the business tax, and the income tax has saved some taxes. Clear products. As for the nominative dishes like tiger skin pigeon eggs, which are cow testicles, it is a blind dish handed down from Jinbaozhai’s ancestors. Because the raw materials are hard to find, this time I specially showed my skills to reward the distinguished guests. It is said that in The Yandai Xiejie area of ​​Dadu was established in the Yuan Dynasty, and there is a pool of Shichahai pool nearby, with lotus fragrance ten miles away, and streams reflecting the belt. "After listening to Mo Jinglao's words, I realized that this meal of spring pancakes with history was too expensive.

It has been more than 30 years since I came to Taiwan, and the mainland snacks have gradually increased day by day, such as Nanjing salted duck, Peking smoked chicken, Baoding smoked sausage, Zhenjiang meat...you can eat it in Taipei. It's tender and cold, it's the season to eat spring pancakes with zygote rolls.At present, there are more than 100 North restaurants in Taipei according to the most conservative estimate, but if you plan to eat a formal zygote roll spring pancake, there may not be any one that can prepare it right now!