Chapter 25 eat noodles

I remember in the early days in Beiping, everyone ate ground flour (also known as local flour). Since the introduction of machine-made foreign white noodles, the powder is fine, whiter than snow, and ground flour has naturally been eliminated.Before there was no machine noodles, there was no special industry for selling local noodles, and it had always been milled and sold by rice farms.So far, the impression I can leave is that the flour sacks used by Damizhuang to deliver flour to residents are round and round, nearly one person tall, and a big coarse cloth bag with the name and address printed on it.Whether it is ground or foreign white noodles, people in Peiping seem to have little interest in machine-cut noodles. They seem to have a preference for stretched noodles. energy.The word "stretching" in stretched noodles was taught by the teacher when the author was reading blocks in the study.But the word "stretch" is used too rarely, and as time goes by, I forget how to write the word "stretch".Sheqin Hefei Li Mugong was a disciple of Ma Tongbo, an ancient writer of the Tongcheng School. He first came to Beiping and told me that he wanted to try Beiping’s ramen. The noodles are called ramen.I told him that Beiping is called stretched noodles, but he said that he just didn't know how to write "stretched", so it was called pulled noodles.But at that time, I couldn't remember how to write the character "stretch".When I came to Taiwan, the broadcasting company asked Mr. He Rong to talk about "Daily One Character" in the program "Morning Park".

Stretching noodles not only requires skill, but also the strength of the two arms.The stretching is done by the chef. As for the maids, they will also roll the noodles into slices and cut them into strips. It cannot be classified as authentic stretch noodles.To stretch noodles, first knead the noodles into long strips, lift them up and twist them into twists. The more even the twist, the better, and then shake them up and down as much as possible. If it is too much, the complexion will turn yellow, and if it is dipped in alkaline water, it will not stretch out.When the noodles are smooth enough, a big noodle column changes from one to two, two to four...and keep pulling it down.The thickness can be divided into curtain sticks, homemade strips, and thin strips. If it is thinner, it is called a nest. As long as you tell the master chef on the stove to make more buckles, the noodles will be much thinner.

The noodle noodles in the Peking restaurant are warmed to the highest standard in the stove of Longfu Temple. Go to the opposite door Baikui to buy some roasted mutton soup, and have roasted mutton simmered, that is a must.Or go to Fu Quan Fu Museum to serve a duck dowry and marinate, which is also unique.You can't taste these two flavors anywhere except Beiping.Lao Duan, the shop owner of Runming Building in Dong'an Market, is particular about eating stretched noodles, so the master chef on the stove is trained by him to make noodles. When he heard that the shopkeeper wanted to eat stretched noodles, no one dared to be sloppy.But there is one case, his family’s small bowl of dry fried food is really not flattering, not to mention the sauce is too salty, and the minced meat is too bad, it always feels a little sticky in the mouth.There is a Guan Dayuan who sings Xusheng in Liyuanxing. He is usually good at food. He said: "Runminglou noodles are well stretched, but the sauce is not fried well. Let's eat stewed meat instead. Let's have a piece of pork stewed with three delicacies." The marinade is still in a ballast pot. It is best to call a medium bowl stewed with three diced wide sauce, and it will be wonderful to eat on the noodles. Because the three delicacies and stewed noodles are listed in the price list of ordinary public snacks, they must be cheap to attract people Eat it, no one dares to eat it when the price is high. You want a stewed three diced, which is listed as formally cooked on the counter, and you must use good sea cucumbers, real southern legs, and chicken diced with skin. Naturally, it is much better than Sanxian Lu." After eating it a few times, it proved that what the boss said was true.

The cook that She Xia used in Beiping back then was Liu Shun, who was also a good hand at stretching noodles. He could stretch out two catties of noodles at a time.His fried sauce tastes different than the restaurant's fried sauce.He said: "The sauce used for fried sauce must use good noodle sauce. The sauce that can be bought in Xidinghe (place name) is the most ideal. Avoid too salty. Eighty percent of yellow sauce and 20 percent of sweet noodle sauce are absolutely necessary. Do not put sugar. First dilute with boiling water and mix evenly. Fry the eggs and grind them into pieces. In addition, use Xiaojingou (a kind of small shrimps in Beiping that are two or three minutes long, the whole body is red, and its taste is very fresh). It is fragrant, and then fried with sauce, it is more delicious than the sauce made by frying diced meat. But the noodles must be eaten if the pot can't pick up the water, so it will be more plump and sweet." People eat noodles with pickled vegetables , green beans, cucumber shreds, and minced celery. I don’t put noodles in the fried sauce, but I use canned ginger sprouts from Guangdong (also known as assorted ginger).Pour the hearty and sour ginger soup on the noodles instead of rice vinegar, which is not only refreshing and palatable, but also won't make you thirsty after eating.If you have some real Sichuan pickles, you can eat them with noodles. People say that they are the most delicious in the southeast, but I say this way of eating is simply ambiguous.

Tired of eating fried sauce, sometimes I eat stewed noodles for a change, and the two kinds are clear and muddy.The clear ones are called Chuan'er halogens, and the muddy ones are called thickened ones.The condiments of Chuaner stew are diced meat, eggs, diced, and dried shrimps, yellow flowers, fungus, boiled in broth or white soup; three fresh meat slices are used for mud stew, plus dried shrimps, yellow flowers, fungus, and carrageen. Eggplant slices are deep-fried and thickened, which is also called three-flavored eggplant stew. Finally, some pepper oil is fried and poured on it while it is hot. It is spicy and fragrant, which is more appetizing.In terms of mellow taste, of course it must be thickened.However, when eating stewed noodles with the elders in the family, you must be gentle and gentle, and chopsticks are not allowed to pick randomly in the bowl.So although thickened corn is more delicious, but children would rather eat Chuaner stew to avoid being punished.All in all, no matter what kind of stew you eat, the taste is only enough if you use stretched noodles, and the taste will be worse if you use sliced ​​noodles.

When the author was in a northern restaurant in Hengyang, Hunan Province, he saw Peking noodles with fried sauce on the wall, so he asked for a bowl to try.Of course, the noodles are cut noodles, and the sauce is poured on the noodles. Not to mention the saltiness of the sauce, it is full of fragrant beans, and a handful of vegetables are automatically sprinkled on the noodles.Later, it was called Zhajiangmian in another Pingjin restaurant, and it was still dried tofu Zhajiang.A close friend Liu Mengbai has lived in Hengyang for three years. He said that every family of Hengyang Zhajiang Noodles is like this, as if it was taught by a master.Before the Anti-Japanese War, I went to Baotou for some business. The Pingsui Railway has frequent passenger traffic. The most common noodle dish is a bowl of noodles with fried sauce, which is probably not too outrageous.Unexpectedly, the noodles with fried sauce were served, not to mention the smelly and greasy, but the sauce was full of peanut kernels, which were soft and hard, making it hard to swallow.Changed a family, the practice is still the same, one south and one north, reflecting each other.Afterwards, when I left Peiping and went to any major trading port, I dared not call it Zhajiangmian. If I dared to call it Zhajiangmian for no reason, I would be afraid to eat it.

In the second year after the victory of the Anti-Japanese War, the author went to Tai County in northern Jiangsu to visit relatives. Someone pointed out that the "Dadong" of Tai County is famous for its white soup noodles in Lixiahe, so I naturally went to try it.Let's talk first!There is a kind of Xiaodaoer noodles in Taixian County, which is made from local noodles. Although it is not as white as foreign noodles, it has a faint aroma of wheat.The noodles are spread out on the noodle table, and a stick of orange wood with a diameter of more than four inches is inserted into the hole in the wall. People sit on the poles and turn it over and over again to compact the porcelain, and then cut it into noodles.Therefore, it is very crisp and refreshing in the mouth. If you bring it to the stove, it will be cooked a little bit (that is, it will be harder), which is very similar to stretched noodles.Therefore, in addition to chicken, duck, dowry, and pig bones, the soup of white soup noodles also includes eel bones and fish and shrimp. The soup is tumbling in the pot all day long. Can a bowl of small knife and white soup be delicious?

When I first came to Taiwan, it was not easy to eat any kind of mainland-style noodles, let alone a small bowl of dry fried noodles. Later, more and more people came from the mainland, and there were all kinds of mainland snacks. When it comes to how good it is, yes Can't talk about it.Don't be too demanding about whether it looks good or bad, it's generally not too far off the mark, and everyone will be satisfied.At one time, in the vicinity of Huaining Street, the west gate of the new park, snack bars in various provinces sprung up like mushrooms after a spring rain, and more and more opened. When it was time for lunch and dinner, the waiters were soliciting customers in front of the door. Poor again.The time is wrong, the author always takes a detour + to avoid trouble when passing Huaining Street.One day, I went to Sanyezhuang Hotel to visit friends. I looked out of the window and saw a small restaurant called Banfenli, which specializes in dumpling noodles. On the noodle table, there was a strong young man who was smoothing and stretching the noodles. The movements were very skillful and natural. .I originally planned to have lunch at Sanliujiu. Driven by curiosity, I changed to eat stretched noodles at Banfenli. I must know that the sauce is not good, so I ordered a Sanhe oil sesame sauce noodles.I have been in Taiwan for 20 or 30 years, and the noodles I ate this time are of the highest standard.Later, in order to tidy up the city appearance, the illegal buildings were demolished, and all the illegal buildings along Huaining Street were demolished. I don’t know where they moved for half of the profit. A friend from Shanghai said that the fried noodles in Wuchang Street in Taipei are good, and the taste is standard. The north and the south are different, and you will know whether it is good or bad when you have time to eat.