Chapter 17 Let's talk about clear clothes again

Since I wrote an article "Talking about Qingzhuang Clothing and Appellation" in the 263rd issue of "Television Comprehensive Weekly", several readers wrote to me and talked about the swallowtail problem of the two heads. Let me explain in detail little bit.In the early days, the two heads were combed with real hair, and the swallowtail at the back of the neck was naturally combed with real hair. Later, the two heads were replaced with black satin false head seats, and the swallowtail was changed to fake hair.Some princely mansions pay attention to the fact that although people use wigs to comb their swallowtails, they always feel a little bored when combing other people's hair. It is to use my own hair to comb freely, and secondly, my hair is thick, soft and shiny, and it can be consistent from front to back.

There are other workshops for combing dovetails, but the dovetails worn by the Fujin princes in the mansions of the princes are specially arranged by women who are similar to the southern flower girls and can speak well, and then handed over to the workshop for combing.This kind of women walks around all day long, carrying a big bag of treasures on their backs, such as rouge and pollen, embroidered needlework, patterned shoes, ingot bottoms, flower pot bottoms, embroidery on the uppers, powder on the soles to see new , even embroidered quilts, pillows, curtains, and cushions for all the tables, curtains and chairs in the hall.The business in the Northeast City was monopolized by a woman named "He Bao Man", and in the West City there was a man named Shen Buqing (unclear trial).It is said that after the dovetail workshop combs the dovetail, it must be modified by them to make the style generous.They looked carefully and strictly, and instructed the masters in the workshop to use three-three black satin for the lining. On the one hand, it would not rub the back of the cheongsam, and on the other hand, it would be more round to look left and right.The dovetail frame must be made of red silk, seeing that it is light, soft and smooth, black silk thread must be used in the seam of the dovetail (there is a TV drama that combs the flag head with red silk thread similar to the dovetail, it is too eye-catching). On the top, spread evenly and comb smoothly.When Mei Lanfang was in the Civilized Tea Garden Shuangqing Society, every time he sang "Si Lang Visits His Mother", Princess Tie Jing's flag head was combed by his wife Wang (aunt Wang Shaolou).Once at a meeting in the palace hall, Mrs. Wang asked Horqin Wang Fujin if she had any praise or criticism for the flag she combed for Lanfang. The old Fujin said bluntly: It is generally good, but the swallowtail is a little smaller.Young women who dare to dress up in the flag, the younger they are, the bigger their swallowtails are, so they look fashionable. These particularities, few people understand now.

When it comes to the issue of women wearing hats in clear clothes, middle-aged women are afraid of the cold in the middle of winter, and their hands and feet are cold in winter. It is really troublesome to comb lightly and slowly, so they change their hair to wear hats.Therefore, the brims of the hats worn by flag women are all noble leather accessories such as ermine fox, sea dragon, otter, etc. At worst, they have to use clip velvet, sea tiger velvet and so on.Since the brim of the hat is made of precious fur, it is naturally not like in the TV series, the brim of the Fujin princesses is hung with heavy pearls and nails.However, the hat heart and hood are very particular. This kind of hat heart is made of flat gold Kesi, Suzhou embroidery and Hunan embroidery.Hat knots (also known as hat knots) should be at least the size of pigeon eggs, and most people use small coral beads, except for those tied with red silk.On the back of the hat, there are two streamers with flat and narrow back, narrow at the top and wide at the bottom, with dragon pattern and phoenix color, and the cloud head is sewed to the edge to enhance the splendor.

Two days ago, there were two blue tassels hanging on the head in the Qingzhuang series. It should be known that women's clothing in the Qing Dynasty, black and blue were the colors used in half-human clothing, and purple was a special color for the concubine, so they should not be confused.Although the Qing Dynasty did not have modern specialists in clothing design, the regulations on the color of clothing were very strict. There is no such convenience and freedom as the clothing styles and colors of modern people, who can do whatever they like!Since they are in mourning, there is no reason to wear tassels on their heads.