Chapter 16 Talk about Qingzhuang clothing and appellation

After the Spring Festival, I heard that TTV invited Ding Qiang and Li Xuan from the United States to return to Taiwan to produce a series of Qing Dynasty court dramas. Bangkok, Thailand's No. 3 TV station broadcasts "Big Heroes" produced by Hong Kong TV at 9 o'clock every night, starring David Jiang and others. The plot tells the story of Yongzheng and his uncle Longkdo conspiring to seize power.The interior and exterior scenes of the whole play, as well as the utensils used in the palace layout, are all made to be realistic in every aspect of production, especially in braiding. From the emperor to the servants, all of them shaved their foreheads green and shiny, and the braids at the back of their heads were also shaved. It is neatly combed, and a large pile of hairless hair is scattered behind the head.This point is enough to prove that the dedication of Hong Kong film and television friends is much more serious than ours in Taiwan.

"Youth Day" came back to Taiwan. Although "Golden Phoenix" has not seen the whole picture, it has finally caught up with the end. Leaving aside the plot and setting, there are several students who study the etiquette of the Qing Dynasty. Come with me. Inquiring, I had no choice but to write down what I saw personally for the reference of the students, not to dare to show off, but to keep the truth. Let's talk about women's headgear first. "Television Comprehensive Weekly" said: "Put on a 'flag hat' as tall as a person's head." The so-called flag cap is actually called "two heads". , are all combed with real hair. Young women have long and dense hair, and the two heads are naturally tall and big. Old women's hair is thin and thin, and the two heads naturally shrink with age. Combing with real hair is naturally time-consuming. Trouble.In the Tongzhi period, someone developed two heads made of black satin and pressed on a seat woven with copper wire. Just put a bun on the top of the head, fasten the two heads together with the seat on the bun, and surround them with flat thick-painted treasures. The hat strip with similar patterns is surrounded, and then inserted with golden pearl hairpins, the "door flower" is worn in the middle, and the "temple flowers" are placed on the hairpins on both sides.The real two heads need at least three flowers, unlike the flag-style heads of Beijing opera and TV dramas, where a single flower covers the entire head, especially in TV dramas where there is jade foil on the back of the head, which is full of pearls. It's really hard for an actor to turn around!

Now, in TV dramas, in order to beautify the two heads, some brilliant person locks one or two lines of bright silver borders around the two heads. Although it adds to the beauty, it is too far from the actual situation.There is a long flat square on the two heads. The two heads with real hair earlier had to use the whole long flat square to pick up the hair. Emerald jade, gold, silver and jade inlays are indeed magnificent.Since it was changed to a prosthetic head, in order to reduce the load on the head, the flat square has become a protruding head and tail without the middle section.At that time, there was a special kind of business, which was a workshop dedicated to changing satin for two-handed hair and repairing seats. Young women from various banners who were particular about clothing each had three or more pairs of two-handed hair that they wore alternately.

As for the red silk tassels hanging on each side of the two handles, that is also very particular, not casually worn.According to regulations, unmarried girls who have been married to other families have to practice combing their hair twice at home, put on the bottom of the flower pot, how to walk, please kowtow, and other etiquettes, all of which are hung on one side of tassels.Married and newly married young women wear red tassels every time they have a festive ceremony, but middle-aged women who are over forty don't wear red tassels anymore, especially widowed half-widows, and they don't wear red tassels (Qimen rules are strict) , widowed women, even Shaoai is not allowed to paint with red dots). In "Golden Phoenix Fate", Lao Fujin wears red tassels on both heads, which is too outrageous, and this kind of tassels are only worn when he wears a cloak at the grand ceremony. No one wears red tassels all day long at home. How inconvenient to do things ah!

Behind the two heads should be combed swallowtails, which were originally made of real hair. Later, the two heads were changed to satin, and the swallowtails were changed to wigs. With the hat strip in the way, it is impossible to see it at all.The size of the swallowtail is proportional to the age. The younger the age, the bigger the swallowtail. When the sixtieth old man does not wear a swallowtail at all, and no one thinks it is rude to push his hair up. "TV Comprehensive Weekly" once had a photo of Mei Lanfang in a flag dress. From the full-length mirror, you can see the shadow of a dovetail dragging her shoulders.Now the flag costumes in TV dramas have two heads on top of the head, and the back of the head is combed like a human head in Tsing Yi from Peking Opera. It is neither a donkey nor a horse.

We have talked a lot about women's headgear in flag dress, let's talk about men's dress!Taiwanese TV male stars, no matter they are young or old, are all hair care heroes. Their hair is deliberately left in the middle of the forehead, and the temples are getting longer and longer. There is nowhere to hide the real hair behind the ears. Leave a bunch of hair on the top, braid it into a small braid, and close it with the formal big braid. The peculiar hairstyle has become a spectacle of hairstyle, unprecedented in ancient and modern times.Thanks to how the makeup artist figured it out, since he refused to shave his head, he had to wear a hat as much as possible to cover it up.

The melon skin cap worn by my uncle in "Golden Phoenix Fate" seemed familiar, but I couldn't think of it for a while, and then someone reminded me, isn't that an export product displayed at Zhongzheng Airport?However, in terms of the height of the hat, I am afraid it is still specially ordered!In the play, the hats worn by the chief executive, uncles, and stewards all have a jade cap nailed on them. You must know that although the chief executive has a lot of power in the palace, he is still a deacon. Absolutely not allowed to wear a straight hat.Cui Yugui, the eunuch in the late Qing Dynasty, was the second most popular person in front of Cixi after Li Lianying. One summer, he invited several friends to the Shichahai Huixian Hall to eat ice bowls to cool off the heat. As soon as he entered the door, he met Uncle Ze coming out. He saw Cui Yugui's gauze hat on his head. A cap flower with a flawed seal on it.Zegong had always hated Cui Yugui's pretentiousness and cunning, so he took advantage of his drunkenness to accuse Cui Kuangyao of arrogance face to face, and wanted to send Cui Yugui to the Ministry of Internal Affairs to punish him on the spot.It can be seen that in the late Qing Dynasty, lowly servants were not allowed to wear cap flowers, and the rules were quite strict.

When it comes to addressing the wives of the palaces, no matter how many there are, they are called "Ci Fujin". In "Jinfengyuan", there is the title of Erfu Jin, which is unprecedented, but now it exists.As for Princess Tiejing who called their father "Ama" and their mother "Emiang", none of them called their father and mother. As evidenced by "Silang Visits His Mother", Princess Tiejing's title for the queen mother can be overwhelmed. During my stay in Thailand, a few friends from the press said: "Taiwanese film and television audiences have a mentality of saying more good things and not causing troubles. Forget about the tone, anyway, it’s entertainment to relieve boredom, so why bother to care about it (actually, the audience has been wronged, there are many articles in newspapers and magazines about hairstyles, but it’s a pity that the speaker is earnest and the listener is contemptuous)! The young people of this generation don’t even know whether the costumes of the Qing Dynasty are real or not. Movies and TV dramas are realistic, which is very different from Peking Opera, which is freehand. I hope that the cultural circles of the island’s film and drama circles will pay attention to this. It can be presented before the overseas Chinese in Southeast Asian countries."

When I came back to China, I watched the ending of "Golden Phoenix Fate", and listened to the propaganda and consulted several historians and experts.So write down the situation that I have actually seen. As for whether others can adopt it, it is up to me.