Chapter 24 Yellow croaker, yellow croaker noodles

Totoaba is called yellow croaker in the south and yellow croaker in the north.At that time, the manager of the salt industry, Yue Ganzhai, loved yellow croaker the most. When the yellow croaker was on the market, he would have a bowl of stewed yellow croaker for every meal. Han Songge, the deputy manager of the bank, nicknamed him "Yellow Fish King". It's an old nickname.Why is it called yellow croaker?According to Yue Ganzhai: "The yellow croaker is the most abundant when the chrysanthemums are in bloom, and it is also very plump. The yellow color of the fish is like a chrysanthemum, so the northerners call it the yellow croaker." I don't know if this is reliable, so I have to listen to it.

According to the "Qing Barnyard Banknotes": "The yellow croaker, every year at the beginning of March, is transported from Tianjin to the Chongwenmen Tax Bureau of the capital. When it is not open, the speed will be reached in the near future, and the restaurant can get it. It is so fresh that it is delicious, and it is delicious to eat. It is said that I eat yellow croaker today." The yellow croaker in Beiping is all shipped from Tianjin. When the Tianjin train was not running smoothly, the yellow croaker in Beiping had been frozen the day before.After the yellow croaker fish came into the market, there is a custom in Beiping to take the aunts back to their natal home to eat yellow croaker fish: when a daughter is married, there is Wenggu, there are sisters-in-law and uncles in the same generation, and nephews and nieces in the younger generation. It's a little bit faster to enjoy the warm spring flowers, so the natal family justifiably took the aunt and grandma back to the natal family to have a hearty meal of yellow croaker.The largest yellow croaker in the north is not full of feet. The big yellow croaker like Kinmen Matsu which is more than two feet long is extremely rare. The second-medium sized yellow croaker is about three or four catties. Clean up the house and cook it in a pot. Although soy sauce is added, the taste should not be too strong, because this kind of fish can be eaten with cakes, noodles, and rice. Those who love fish should eat five or six fish one by one. Not unusual.This kind of braised yellow croaker also needs to put more garlic cloves. In addition to the delicious garlic cloves, it is said that this time is the season when the redbud flowers are in full bloom. , put in the right amount of garlic, there is no hindrance!

Fang Shishan, a famous doctor at the time, said: "Yellow croaker is rich in protein, vitamins A, B, E, phosphorus, calcium and other ingredients. It nourishes the body and is extremely beneficial. It is especially suitable for the elderly with weak digestion." "It is also believed that sweetness and warmth can benefit the stomach, and it can recover early after illness.The author’s appetite is weak, and the appetite is even worse. Let me eat yellow croaker, but it’s only one piece, so when I eat yellow croaker, I always remove the fish meat and eat it with stewed noodles, which is better than fried sauce. The noodles seem to be much more fragrant and delicious.After Xiao Longyou, one of the four famous doctors in Peking, ate yellow croaker noodles in his dormitory, his younger brother Liu Ye had a serious stomach problem. He asked his younger brother to eat yellow croaker noodles from time to time, but he never did it for a long time. Unexpectedly, yellow croaker fish is also very beneficial to stomach problems. Woolen cloth!

When he came to Taiwan in 1947, his old friend Luo Qiuyuan was in charge of the old Zhengxing restaurant. I don’t know where he got a large yellow croaker, which is three feet long, juicy and fat. One fish eats four. It can be preserved and stir-fried. Nian Gengyao was relegated to Hangyuan, and after eating fresh yellow croaker from Ningbo, he realized that the yellow croaker he ate in the north was far less delicate and smooth than the yellow croaker in the south. When I arrived in Kinmen in 1964, I lived in the Ying Hotel. The food was rich and sweet, and the Qingjiu Zilin was a special product of Kinmen.Yingchi yellow croaker, those who come from Taiwan, are all regarded as treasures.The chef of the hotel is from Xigu, Tianjin, and he teaches how to cook yellow croaker with noodles.As soon as you talk about it, you can make noodles and fish on the plate. Although the folks in Tianjin can eat the delicious fish, even those who travel in other provinces think that the cakes and jade carp are not all exquisite, and you can see the blue sky from the bottom of the bowl.