Chapter 23 gossip roast duck

Two days ago, there was an article in this newspaper on "American Roast Duck Disturbance". It is said that the food sanitation law of the United States stipulates that all meat must be kept below 5 degrees Celsius or above 60 degrees Celsius, otherwise it will be regarded as a violation of the regulations and cannot be sold.If the roast duck in Peking is tossed according to the temperature of this kind of hot and cold, it will not be a roast duck.After last summer vacation, I went to the United States for a trip. In all major cities, no matter if they are from Shannanhaibei provinces, all Chinese restaurants of a certain size sell roast duck. It is said that this is the "roast duck style" brought back from Nixon's visit to Beijing. .

Back then, Lao Bian Fang was the best roast duck in Peking. The ducks in his house were all stuffed by themselves. There was also a secret way of stuffing and roasting. What was the ratio of fat to dry sorghum noodles? Dry pressing) are all the work of master chefs who specialize in serving ducks.The duck is fat and thin, which can be measured with a scale. The tenderness of the meat is determined by the master chef feeling the softness and hardness of the trident bone under the crop. For other chicken and duck shops, never put it on the stove.As for the new Bianyifang and Quanjude’s job of selecting ducks, due to the different times, it is not as serious as the old Bianyifang.

Master Pang, the authority on Bianyifang Roast Duck, is from Wan County, Hebei Province. Three generations of grandparents have learned their skills in Bianyifang. Go home and enjoy the rest of the year.Master Pang always said: "To eat a good roast duck, you must choose a sunny day. After the duck is cleaned up, use a blowing needle to blow up the joints of the skin and flesh. The blowing should be even and thorough, and then hang the duck on the Place in a cool place where there is no wind, and let the light wind dry the duck skin as much as possible, so that the roasted duck skin can be crispy and crispy.” Once he was blowing the duck skin with a blowing needle, a British guest saw it and said he had discovered the secret , Said that he was artificially making air ducks, and sold them for a lot of money.After he explained that the purpose of doing this is to make the skin of the roasted duck particularly crispy, he suddenly realized.In the early days of the Anti-Japanese War, a large number of Japanese flooded into Beiping. They tasted the marrow and knew the taste, and the roast duck business in Bianyifang naturally flourished. , Simply close the business and forget it.From then on, if you eat roast duck in Peking, you can only patronize Quanjude. The younger generation only know Quanjude, but they don’t know that there is Bianyifang.

At that time Ruomu, the nephew of the bibliophile Kuai Guangyu, lived in Beiping. Although he liked it, he suffered from severe diabetes, and his food was rationed, so the doctor forbade him to chew.His cook, Da Geng, is a master at roast duck, but he has become a hero and useless, so he is very happy for others to borrow his cook to cook.No matter which house Da Geng went to have a dinner party, as long as he built a small stove with sand board bricks in a sheltered place in the courtyard, he could roast fat and crispy ducks.Mr. Kuai can only taste it briefly, but he also feels happy when he sees other people chewing it, and the aroma is overflowing with flavor.This kind of roast duck is neither oil-drenched nor hung in the oven, so it can be regarded as a unique style of roast duck.

At the beginning of Taiwan's recovery, the Shanxi restaurant was located on the left hand side of Taipei Railway Station. If the ducks were cooked well and the weather was fine, the roasted ducks were not outrageous, and it tasted like a cheap place.However, a high-quality fat duck is nearly the price of a table, and they are not regular customers who can eat, and they dare not accept it. I am afraid they will say that they are cheating. When the business is expanded and moved to the opposite side of Zhongshan Hall, it will be difficult to taste the same as before. The duck was served.When Zhuangyuan Restaurant first opened, although it was called for the taste of Zhejiang, sometimes the ducks roasted by his family were not bad. A female chef sliced ​​the ducks to a certain size, and the skin and meat were divided, which was quite regular.Our friend who eats delicious food often hangs out together. It never occurred to me that to eat Beiping roast duck in Taiwan, you have to patronize a restaurant in Jiangsu and Zhejiang, and a Taiwanese female chef is amazing.At that time, brother Luo Qiuyuan, the boss of Lao Zhengxing, thought that our evaluation was not based on the concept of provincial nationality. Luo said that in less than 30 years, restaurants in any province in Taiwan would probably be dominated by the younger generation of Taiwan (now Qiuyuan Tomb The grass has arched, and its words come true).Later, I asked Mr. Lin Yutang and Liang Junmo to taste it, and they all agreed with my evaluation.

Now no matter what restaurant sells roast duck, the duck slices are ready to be served on the table, and the skin and meat are clearly divided. There are at most three or five slices in a plate, or even the whole duck slices. It can’t be chewed or chewed, so it’s not a very close friend at the same table. Whenever the roast duck is served, especially at a wedding banquet, you have to hold up the chopsticks and don’t put the chopsticks, lest you can’t chew, swallow, or spit it out. , to make a fool of myself.