Chapter 15 bear paw talk

Bear's paw, one of the eight delicacies, the author has eaten foreign meat when he was twelve or thirteen years old.At that time, Yuan Jinkai, a co-cultivator of the Qing History Museum, suddenly had stiff legs and could only move around, unable to move.After consultation with several well-known doctors in Peking, Zhang Juren, the imperial physician of Xunqingtai Hospital, believed that stewed bear paws could unblock the ribs and he might resume walking. Zhao Erxun, curator of the Museum of Qing History, knew that Rui Xun (Jing Su) had bear paws in the same year. At the same time, he inquired about a chef in Houdefu, Xie Shifeng, who was very good at stewing bear paws. up.In this small gathering, Ruijingsu took the bear's paw, and Zhao Cishan (Er Xun) treated the guests, the purpose of which was to give old doctor Yuan a leg.Although there is only one bear's paw, after it is opened, a large bowl is filled to the brim.The bear's paws are plump and fat, and eating them is like eating extra-thick and top-quality fish lips.After the dish was finished, the waiter immediately brought a hot towel to wipe his mouth, otherwise, his mouth would be glued and unable to open.

In the 35th year of the Republic of China, I hurried across the sea to come to Taiwan. Liu Wenbin, a chef from the Tai County Salt Store, also came to Taiwan alone, so I had to stay in the dormitory as Cuan. Later, I was transferred to work in Jianan. He was old and afraid of heat, so he went to the shipping company. Unexpectedly, during the Japanese puppet period, he learned the skill of simmering bear paws from Li Changjiang Mansion. If someone brings their own bear paws, he can do it for them. Therefore, Chef Liu has made bear paws several times and gained a great reputation. A few days ago, several people who had tasted Liu’s cooking skills mentioned that no one in Taiwan can simmer bear’s paws anymore.I said: "I don't think bear's paws are a good delicacy except for their plump and thick bows. Although there may not be anyone in Taiwan who can cook them now, there are quite a few Chinese and Western chefs in Hong Kong, Paris, and Frankfurt who have this skill." What!" In the early years in Hong Kong, there were very few real bear's paws, and many restaurants used refills, sometimes with camel's hooves, sometimes with beef tendon, and restaurants even prepared real bear's paws as props.Some Shanghai-style restaurants use tall porcelain plates, put bear paw skeleton racks, and "tell the truth" with guests. This is indeed unusual in the Pearl River Valley, but it is ridiculous for people from the Northeast.

Shanghai fashion design expert Jiang Xiaoyu opened a clothing company called Yunshang on Jing'an Temple Road in Shanghai. Because of the convenient location, the upstairs of his office became our club.One day, famous photographer Li Jinfa suddenly talked about eating bear paws. He said: "We Chinese think that we are the only ones who can eat bear paws. In fact, there is a restaurant in Paris, France called Emerald Garden. Bai Quan, one of the four famous chefs in France, Rui Chef Kong Sun. His specialty dish is called "Kirin Bear's Paw" in Chinese, which is stewed with ham and straw mushrooms. Bear's paws are divided into "dry goods" and "wet goods" (also called frozen goods) in Europe. After stewing, they are warm and moist Meticulous and as lustrous as fat. It is really rare to be able to eat such hot dishes in foreign countries.”

The same seatmate, Ji Xiaocun, just came back from Germany. He said that he was once invited by a famous wild game chef WIBBTKT to eat German-style iron-grilled bear paws at the wild game restaurant of WIBBTKT Frankfurt. It's not something you can eat as you cook.First steam it with spiced red wine to make it rotten, then cut the skin and fill it with meat stuffing, add lemon juice and a little German wine when the dish is served, the taste is sweet and fat, and the taste is strong. Chinese stew under the bear's paw. During the meeting, it was also mentioned that Mr. Fan Bingcheng, a world friend, attended a meeting of the Middle East Railway in Harbin one year as the chief representative of the Chinese side.During the dinner after the meeting, a representative from Russia, Nebilov, is a famous Russian Yi Ya, who is especially good at cooking bear's paw.It is said that he stewed bear paws with cordyceps is even more unique. During the imperial Russian era, he performed in front of the imperial court. He and the chief representative of the Russian side are uncle-in-law, so he was able to serve as a director of the Middle East Railway. It shows that they also care about interpersonal relationships.This talk about the bear's paw whetted everyone's appetite, but at the Laixi Restaurant of Yunshang Company, everyone had no bear's paw to eat, so they had to eat two pickled pig's feet and drink two glasses of Danish stout to satisfy their hunger!