Chapter 14 Mushroom words

Now there are many types of mushrooms in Taiwan's vegetable market, such as Flammulina velutipes, fresh straw mushrooms, abalone mushrooms, Taiwanese mushrooms, and imported mushrooms.Although the appearance is not much different from the mainland fungi, the freshness is different. The author knew how to eat mushrooms when I was a child, and I also love to eat mushrooms, because Yang Shangzhi (we call him Grandma Grandma), the eldest son of Xianjun’s wet nurse (we call him Grandma Grandma), opened a fur store in Zhangjiakou, and a mushroom shop The store is also the president of the Zhangyuan Chamber of Commerce. He always comes to Beiping three or five times a year, first to visit his mother, and second to discuss business. Each time he brings some large and small bags of different kinds of good mushrooms.

He said: "Chahar is a province with a mixture of Han and Mongolia. There are a lot of Mongolian words in the vocabulary of the Han people. The mushrooms we eat are the transliteration of the Mongolian word 'Mushroom'. Some people say that southerners are called mushrooms, and northerners People call it mushrooms. Although they belong to the same type of fungus, their taste is quite different. Because it grows on the Lili grassland outside Zhangjiakou, it is called Tricholoma. The grass outside the Great Wall grows tall, and the Mongolian compatriots graze grass by grass. They eat leftovers. The leftovers of meat, the blood of cattle and sheep are thrown on the grass. The grass that has been accumulated for many years is buried on the grass in winter by the wind and snow, forming a thick grass bed. Humic soil with special organic ingredients. When the new grass sprouts, a small canopy will be built on it to keep the moisture in the grass and shield it from direct sunlight. In late summer and early autumn, there will be a few continuous rains, high temperature, high humidity, and bacteria Silk is the easiest to reproduce. The mushrooms come out of the humus one by one. The young mushrooms that have just emerged are white in color and rich in umami. Cracks, and the color turns to brown, which is the middle and lower grade Tricholoma.

"Picking Tricholoma also has special skills, and sooner or later, it has a lot to do with the quality. The mushroom cap must be round, the grain should be deep, and the grass around it should be green, which is the top-quality Tricholoma. The largest Tricholoma is harvested and not dried. In the past, the diameter of the umbrella hat was seven or eight inches, and it weighed about a catty. It was not only extremely delicious, but also the most nourishing for lung diseases. Our Dingxing squire Lu Mowu used this dried product, which is called "cloud" in jargon. It is used to stew mutton, which has the effect of not wearing a fur coat in winter. In addition, there is a kind of smallest mushroom, the umbrella cap is smaller than the nail cap, which is a treasure among the mushrooms, and the jargon is called "white mushroom nail". There are few white mushrooms and strong flavor, so the price is two or three times more expensive than ordinary mushrooms. Most of the white mushrooms collected by various mushroom farms are distributed to the major restaurants in Beiping.

"As the saying goes, there are three treasures in Zhangjiakou, Tricholoma, Xiaomai, and Big Leather Jacket. I opened the official shop of Leather Goods Shop and Tricholoma Shop. After passing through the checkpoint, I pay the goods tax according to the regulations. The top-quality Tricholoma is about 25 to 30 silver dollars a piece." Jin, it’s worth three times a hundred, so people who come back from Zhangjiakou always plan to sneak some mushrooms to give to relatives and friends. Because the real mushrooms have a special fragrance, no matter how many you bring, how hidden you are, and the fragrance overflows, the checkpoint staff will always check it out. If you come out, you will be fined in addition to paying taxes. Therefore, there is a joke in Zhangjiakou that "steal camels and sheep, but there is nowhere to hide the mushrooms." The selected mushrooms he brought from Zhangjiakou, because of their status and relationship, are all in good order. Even after paying taxes and donations, it is much cheaper than buying it at a seafood store in Beiping, so we always have good mushrooms at home.

Tricholoma is good or bad, you can tell it once you taste it.In addition to the fragrance of the mushrooms in Chahar, Rehe produces a kind of hazel mushroom, which is a small fungus that grows under the hazelnut tree. The color of the umbrella cap is brown, and the stalk is slightly longer than the mushroom.When I was in Rehe, I represented Beipiao Coal Mine in an income tax matter, testified in Chengde District Court, and lived in the home of a family friend Bao Jun.He greeted me at night, and one dish was stewed pumpkin with hazel fungus. It is said that this kind of hazel fungus is only produced in Chifeng and Paddock in Rehe.The paddock soil is thick and the spring temperature is warm. The paddock hazel fungus was listed as a tribute in the early years. The sweet and pure fragrance of this fungus is the most pleasant.Another dish is stewed fish brain with monkey head.In the past, I only heard that Hericium erinaceus, also known as horseshoe bun, is produced in Sichuan. I didn’t expect this kind of fungus to be produced in the north. Hericium erinaceus is the size of a medium-sized custard fruit.Because there are hot springs everywhere in Rehe and the ground temperature is extremely high, silver carp are particularly fat.The two complement each other, moisten the qi and steam the fragrance, and are much more delicious than ordinary fish heads in casserole.Unexpectedly, I can eat such a good orchid and jade in Zisai Border Pass, that is a personal blessing.

In the early years of the Republic of China, there was a Yunnan-Guizhou restaurant called Changmeixuan (later changed to Linchun) in the Central Park of Beiping. My favorite dish was their stewed pigeon with morel mushrooms.The color of this kind of fungus is black, and the mushroom cap is really like an unopened umbrella, full of wrinkles, it will not spoil after a long time of stewing, and all the essence of the pigeon is absorbed by it.Although He Qigong, the mayor of Beiping City, is from Anhui, he loves Yunnan-Guizhou cuisine the most. If an acquaintance invites him to eat in Central Park, he will go to Changmei Restaurant instead of Jinyuxuan. The purpose is to eat Changmei Restaurant Braised Morel Mushrooms.During the Anti-Japanese War, I went to the Yunnan-Guizhou border area where the morel mushrooms are produced. The morel mushrooms cooked in the restaurant could not match the richness and flavor of Changmeixuan. It may not be the goodness of the mushrooms, but it depends on whether the cooking method is pure or not. Bar!

In the 22nd year of the Republic of China, I suffered from typhoid fever once in Wuhan. After the illness, I was weak and weak, and lived in Jishantang in the Yellow Crane Tower in Wuchang to recuperate the illness.My family friend, Mr. Fang Yaoting (Ben Ren), asked the workers of Jishantang to cook chicken and pigeon soup for me every day.Later, a worker told me that the supervisor (called Mr. Fang) sent a large bag of Saixia, and put a few slices in the soup every day. It is said that this kind of thing came from far away, and its function is to replenish energy and Qi, so I After a serious illness, he can recover so quickly.

Later, I asked Elder Fang for advice. He said that the Tibetan Panchen Lama held the Kalachakra Dharma Conference in Hangzhou to protect the country and alleviate disasters. Qu Yingguang gave it to him. It is a special product in the grasslands of northern Tibet.If there are fresh yellow flowers and stewed pigeons together, it will be like a panacea for recovery after illness.Mr. Fang was kind enough to fight, I ate seven or eight pigeons in a row, and my body recovered very quickly.Later, Dean Gan of Hankou Christian Hospital studied and tested carefully, and found that the nutrients contained in Saixia are indeed not inferior to the high-unit multivitamins!

When I was in Hankou, I heard from my friends how delicious Hunan mushroom oil is. Later, I went to Changde, Changsha, and tasted this special product. Its freshness was no more than that of Tricholoma soy sauce.Later, I went to Hengyang and lived in the residence of my junior student Liu Mengbai. His maid, Mrs. Song, was good at boiling fungus oil.She said that the first fungus should be finely selected, the young and young should be uniform, the second must be the right temperature for the cooking oil, and the third cooking oil should be sealed in an altar and placed in a cool place to avoid direct sunlight. irradiated.Put it aside for a year, and then open the altar to eat, it will be naturally sweet and fresh.The freshness of this kind of mushroom oil surpasses that of Guangdong Xiangshan oyster sauce, and it is meatless and vegetarian. Therefore, the general vegetarian elderly and fasting laymen regard the mushroom oil as a condiment.

Friends from Taiwan’s agricultural industry have bred many new varieties of fungi, but Taiwan’s high temperature and humidity, the poor soil is not ideal, the fungi are artificially cultivated, and chemical fertilizers promote the growth too fast, so Taiwan’s fungi can neither match Tricholoma, nor can Competing with Southwest fungi.