Chapter 2 Peking fried dough sticks

Last year in the United States, I met a few old friends who had been abroad for many years. I saw them eating sandwiches, hot dogs, and hamburgers every day. One friend said, "It's time for food again." Looking at their helpless and tasteless expressions, Really feel sorry for them.I asked them what kind of Chinese food they want to eat, and they all said: "As long as it is Chinese-style food, regardless of the taste of the north and the south, I think everything is delicious after living overseas for a long time, especially if I eat breakfast every day, I think of fried dough sticks and tofu. Here comes the milk.” When Liu Dazhong returned to China for the first time, on the day he got off the plane, he went to Yonghe to eat fried dough sticks and soy milk.Probably after going to the country for a long time, everyone is a little bit greedy for sesame seed cakes and fried dough sticks, and there is a little homesickness outside.

In Taiwan, no matter which county or city you are in, there are always such early stalls in the streets and alleys, but it is rare to find a stall that meets the standard.I don't know which gentleman came up with the idea. The sesame seed cakes with deep-fried dough sticks are all rectangular.Taiwanese fried dough sticks are probably learned from Jiangsu Xuzhou Prefecture. The size is not small, almost a foot straight and long. Regardless of whether the deep-fried dough sticks are crispy or crispy, although it is said that fried dough sticks are sandwiched between fried dough sticks, sesame seed cakes and deep-fried dough sticks The size of the biscuit is not directly proportional, like a seven-foot strong man covered with a child's quilt, the head is not covered with the feet, it is equivalent to a towel on the stomach, and you can't squeeze it hard, because the biscuits are so crispy, if you pinch them hard, the biscuits will be too soft. It would be nothing more than fried dough sticks with sesame seed cakes.People from Tianjin said: "Isn't this bad reform!" Therefore, no matter how many returnees yearn for fried dough sticks, they still can't arouse my appetite for them.

Looking back on the breakfast I had in Peking, the most memorable thing for me was the horseshoe biscuits.Although it is also two thin skins, with a little white sesame on the surface, it is soft but not crispy, moist but not oily, and it is sandwiched with oblong fried dough sticks, no more, no less, just a set.When you eat it in your mouth, it has a faint oily fragrance, filling the intestines and palatable.It would be even more beautiful if the deep-fried dough sticks were not sandwiched in and the soft red meat in green sauce was replaced. In addition to horseshoes, there is also a kind of donkey's hooves. There are a little more sesame seeds on the surface of the sesame seed cakes, and a layer of syrup is brushed.However, donkey’s hooves and horse’s hoofs are not baked at the same time. I don’t know who made the rule that all donkey’s hooves and sesame cakes should be baked in the afternoon.

The small-milled sesame oil sesame paste in the mainland is very particular. If there is an oil mill nearby, it must be fragrant for ten miles, so the sesame paste sesame paste baked in the mainland is also very fragrant. Generally speaking, the sesame paste sesame paste is slightly larger than the size of a horseshoe. Because the sesame seed cakes can be eaten without a mouth, if you want to add other food, just take out the flesh, and stir-fry soybean sprouts in the vegetarian sandwich, and the meat is best to sandwich the pork head meat from the red cabinet.Hanging stove biscuits are unique to Beiping. After the victory of the Anti-Japanese War, it was difficult to eat hanging stove biscuits in Beiping.Because the furnace made of mud is hung on the wall by an iron chain, it is called a hanging furnace. Few craftsmen know how to hang this kind of furnace.According to my guess, in today's Beijing, Hanging Oven Biscuits may have become a historical term for a long time.

The small fire of the dough was developed by a worker of the Beiping Finance and Commercial College.When he was not cleaning the classroom, he baked small-fired dough sticks and deep-fried small-ring fried dough sticks for the students to eat. Later, it spread to the Mishi Street area of ​​the YMCA. , only people living in the Northeast City have this delicious food, and few people in the Southwest City have eaten it. When it comes to deep-fried dough sticks, there are a lot of tricks in Beiping. In addition to the long-ring, round-ring, and small-ring, which are authentic deep-fried dough sticks eaten with sesame seed cakes, there are also sugar cakes and sugar triples.The former is a round sugar cake, while the latter is a little bigger than a walnut, with three round bones connected to each other. Because the flour contained is more sweet, it can be eaten alone without any kind of biscuits.There is also a kind called crispy, which is called sugar skin or pot nose in Tianjin. Roll the oily noodles into a rectangle, fry them in a pan, and make them thin and transparent. Soak them in tofu paste or japonica rice porridge and eat them as a supplement. .

In the morning in Shanghai, they eat prism-shaped sesame seed cakes, which are not greasy or greasy, but they are not bad.For those who like to eat oil, the shortbread in Shanghai is also good. It is crispy, crispy and moist when made with good craftsmanship. I have never seen anyone make it in Taiwan.In northern Jiangsu, there is a kind of sesame seed cake with straw soles, which is shaped like a straw sandal and is not made of foreign white flour, but the noodles are mellow and unique.If you take the lard residue left over from refining lard at home, take it to the sesame seed shop and ask him to beat the lard residue into sesame cakes. Even if you beat one, the masters are also happy to mix the dough, without any unhappy expression on their faces.Thinking of the simple and lovely nostalgia in the Roudi countryside, it really makes people feel overwhelmed.