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Tang Lusun Series Talking about things

Tang Lusun Series Talking about things

唐鲁孙

  • Essays

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  • 1970-01-01Published
  • 101324

    Completed
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Chapter 1 Reminiscent of delicious wontons

Northerners eat noodles as their staple food. Generally speaking, pasta with stuffing includes buns, dumplings, steamed dumplings, wontons, stuffed cakes, siu mai, zygote, etc. What they often eat are buns, dumplings, and wontons. .Pasta with stuffing, I prefer to eat wontons, because wontons come with soup.No matter whether the wonton skin is rolled or rolled, it will not be too thick.As for the dumpling wrappers, it’s hard to say. Some people roll out the wrappers thicker than copper coins. If the stuffing is not properly mixed, the dumplings will be unpalatable, so I would rather eat wontons than dumplings.

When I was studying, there was a courtyard for the dumb outside the school gate. Although there was a path, two people could only pass by with seven bends and eight turns, so everyone named it Jiudaowan.There are hot noodle dumplings here, pancakes, fried dough sticks, japonica rice porridge, meat slices, mushrooms, tofu, and wontons. We set up stalls, tents, umbrellas, and students can solve their livelihood problems at noon. , You don’t have to eat school meals and be angry with the kitchen.The wonton seller, surnamed Cui, wears a pair of wide-rimmed glasses, speaks slowly, and is nicknamed "Old Master" by everyone.Although his wontons are filled with pure meat, their flesh is greasy and their tendons are clean.The wonton soup they serve is made from pork bones and chicken racks. He uses pork ribs and old hen to simmer the soup, so his wontons are very delicious; when he is tired of eating wontons, let him make a few meatballs. .I have eaten a lot of wontons in the streets of Beiping, but no one has the same taste as Lao Cui's wontons.When I came to Taiwan, I met a Mr. Zhao Ji who was in charge of Catering for CAT Airlines in Beiping. He also knew Lao Cui. He said that Lao Cui went out to sell wontons on the street every night. The regular customers in Northeast City all said that Lao Cui’s wontons It’s a must, so it’s no surprise!

Drinking in the big wine tank in Beiping, after drinking and eating, you can either have a bowl of haggis or a bowl of wonton.Wontons are eaten every day because they are treated as soup.There is a large wine vat in the brick tower alley of Xisi Pailou called Sanyihe. The wine is not mixed with red alum and does not leave pigeon dung. Therefore, drinkers who love to rely on large wine vats in Xicheng like to go to Sanyihe called Liang for everything. Corner wine to relieve boredom.Because there are many drinkers, there are all kinds of snacks at the door, and there are all kinds of snacks.There was a wonton picker, and the picker was called Broken Leather Jacket by everyone. After a long time, no one knew his last name.His wontons are nothing special. The soup is a pot of boiling water. There are neither pork bones nor chicken racks. There are bottles and cans of ingredients on the side of the pot. A good soup that is mellow and sober up, do you think it will never be exhausted?Jiangnan Yuwu (Zhenfei) usually lives in Magala Temple in Beiping, and runs to Lanyihe in the evening when he has nothing to do in three days. You can see the charm of Sanyihe.

In Shanxi Alley of Beiping Eight Great Hutongs, there is a snack bar named Tao Tao. It is a Suguang clothing store during the day, but in the dead of night, when the chopping boards are cleaned up, it becomes Tao Tao’s snacks.Shepherd's purse is a mountain vegetable in the south, and it can be found everywhere in the original fields. Northerners don't recognize shepherd's purse at all, and people from the south can eat shepherd's purse when they come from the north.Tao Tao's shepherd's purse wonton can be said to be sold alone.The shepherd's purse picked from the Temple of Heaven every day is not much, and it is sold out too late, so I have to ask for it early tomorrow night.In Beiping, shepherd's purse can occasionally be eaten in the meals of Jiangsu and Zhejiang people. As for Wufangzhai, which is called a Shanghai snack, there is no shepherd's purse wonton, so in the eyes of southerners, this wild vegetable is still regarded as a treasure!

Later, when I went to work in Hankou, I was always busy until one or two o'clock in the middle of the night, so I developed the habit of eating late at night.At that time, I was living in Fuyili on Yunqiao Road, downstairs across the street at the entrance of the alley, and there was a seller of wonton noodles every night. Okay, but there are not many people sitting on the stalls eating.One night it was raining outside, and I wanted to go out to eat a bowl of wontons to relax my muscles after working for too long. When I walked to the wonton stand, I saw Xuan Tiewu standing on the left side of the stand, and a man in a black cloak was sitting on the stand, eating wontons. After a closer look, we realized that our "Supreme Leader" Jiang Gong was eating wontons!After eating, I frequently praised and even said that the taste was good.Later, Xia Lingbing, He Xuezhu, Yang Kuiyi, Zhu Chuanjing, Jia Shiyi, Shen Zhaonian, and the then mayor Wu Guozhen came to try it one after another, and they all became regular customers of this wonton stall.The stall owner treats the customers who come to eat wontons equally, and there is no distinction between one person and another.Mr. Wang Xueting said: "The ravioli in Fuyi is certainly second to none in Wuhan, and the plain and simple ones selling wontons are even more precious." After the victory of the Anti-Japanese War, he was demobilized. His old friend Li Zaosun came out of Sichuan by water, passed through Wuhan, and even went to Fuyi. I ate wontons once in the restaurant, and the old man was as healthy as before, except for a few more gray hairs on his temples.

In the early days of the Anti-Japanese War, I lived for a short period of time in Nanyang Xinwu Village, Nanyang Road, Shanghai. Next door was Shao Shijun, the director of the pseudo-tax bureau. It is said that he was the younger brother of the artist (poet) Shao Xunmei, and the godson of the Japanese Emperor Hirohito.Every night in his mansion, there are a lot of cars and horses, shoes and boats are staggered, flowers are blooming on the mirror sill, and the silver lamp is swirling the moon.At the end of the night, when people are scattered, there is always a wonton seller who puts the wontons on the side of the road and knocks and sells them.His wonton soup is mellow and not oily. The wonton seller boasted that his soup is made from two chickens and one duck. The wonton skin is made of egg white noodles, so it is refreshing and crispy. The meat is also crispy.This pure Cantonese-style wonton is indeed light and refreshing.The Shao family always ordered ten bowls and eight bowls every night to have a midnight snack. Although the wonton seller sold Cantonese-style wontons, he couldn’t speak Cantonese at all. But he has an imposing manner, unlike ordinary people in the market, and he later found out that he is Wu Shaoshu, an underground worker.When the Anti-Japanese War was won, he revealed his identity.His assistant "A Genlin" who made wontons every day, after Wu became the deputy mayor of Shanghai, was funded by Wu to open a snack bar on Kade Road selling Cantonese porridge, sesame paste, and chicken soup wontons as a reward for meritorious service.Anyone who knows the past during the Anti-Japanese War must patronize this small shop to see what this unknown hero looks like!

Sichuan compatriots call wonton Chaoshou, and when it comes to Xiaoliangzihui Xianqiao Huaguanglou Da Chaoshou, everyone who has eaten it will talk about it.Huaguanglou sounds grand, but it is actually just a noodle shop with more than ten tables in Shuanglian shop.The reason why his Chao Shou is famous is that the noodles are moderately soft and hard, and the wonton skins are rolled out and wrapped immediately. While rolling, they use a rolling pin to hit the chopping board, which refreshes the mind and attracts customers.Over time, all kinds of tricks will be knocked out, which is much more enjoyable than the Beijing opera "Qingshi Mountain", Wang Banxian catches demons, and plays clang-dang-dang.The skin of his family is good, and the stuffing is even more particular. The ratio of fat to lean meat is notoginseng. The mushrooms and golden hooks are all selected to chop salty fine mud, and then add seasonings and mix well. Knowing that Xiaolong dumplings come with soup, and Huaguanglou with soup is probably the only one.Because his wontons are very big, there are eight in a bowl, which is enough for a normal meal.People in Chongqing like to say witticisms that take advantage of others: "The big Chaoshou from Huixianqiao—you can't eat more than eight."

On Dashangqiao Street in Wuxi City, there is a restaurant called "Guo Fu Lai" that specializes in chicken soup wontons. The wontons are small and exquisite, which is in sharp contrast to Chongqing Huixianqiao's Dazhaoshou, which is one big and one small.Put garlic cloves and shredded celery in the chicken soup, which tastes particularly sweet, fresh and plump.People in Wuxi are not close to green onions and garlic, but chicken soup wontons are made with garlic, which is really hard to explain why.Although Mr. Wu Zhi is from Changzhou, he actually grew up in Wuxi. Every time he returns to his hometown, he always goes to Fulai to eat chicken soup wontons.He said that he has eaten all over the country, and the wontons from Guofulai are the best.With the praise of celebrities, the business in Fulai will benefit from it. Friends who pass by Wuxi, eat chicken soup wontons in Fulai, and eat Shijia gill and lung soup in Suzhou have become indispensable sightseeing items.

In the early days of Taiwan’s recovery, it was almost impossible to eat Fuzhou-style sweet and salty buns, let alone eat wontons. In 1958, I found a snack bar in the Pingtung Night Market that specialized in Xiaolong Tangbao and Wenzhou Wonton.To be honest, his soup dumplings are much better than Taipei 369 at that time. The first is that the noodles are not sticky to the teeth, and the second is that the soup is full of flavor.The double-folded side of the Wenzhou wonton bag, one can tell that the owner and his wife must be from Wenzhou.The ratio of vegetable to meat in wonton is also just right.The boss originally learned the craft of making leather suitcases, and his mother’s family is Wenzhou Jinji Wonton King. When I was a child, I helped my grandmother’s house for two years and sold Wenzhou big wontons. So although he is from Zhenru, Wenzhou wontons are very authentic. .It's a pity that the business started later, and my daughter went to study, but couldn't find a good helper, so I had to go back to my old business to make boxes.There is a family wonton shop on Beiping Road in Pingxi, where the husband cooks the spoon and the wife makes the wontons.The biggest advantage of his wontons is that the meat is clean, without tendons and bones, and the taste is very similar to that sold in Peking wontons.Because of the high quality and low price, the seats are full when the lights are on.Wonton sellers are everywhere in Taipei, but I've been looking for one or two that are of a good standard, but I haven't found one yet!Nowadays, the advertisements in the newspapers of large and small restaurants are full of hype, but the results are mostly specious.This class of kids is arrogant and ashamed to ask questions. The dishes are like this, let alone pasta and other snacks!

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