Chapter 30 Whole pig mat and braised pork

Zhang Xueliang likes Liao cuisine, especially Wang Baotian's white meat blood sausage. White meat blood sausage evolved from the sacrifices used by ancient emperors and patriarchs.According to the "Manchurian God Worship Ceremony·Yi Zhu Pian", the Manchus have long believed in Shamanism, and during the sacrifice process, pigs were sacrificed.Whenever the court held sacrifices, "Sizu eunuchs waited (i.e. carried) a pig to enter the door, placed it on the edge of the kang, with its head facing west. Sizu Manchuria alone knelt down and pressed his hand, Sizu Manchuria (person) Hold the pig's ears, and pour wine into the pig's ears... After the pig breathes, remove its skin, untie it according to the joints, and boil it in a large pot...The emperor and queen wear clothes to salute...Kowtow before the god meat, remove it The sacrificial meat is served on a plate and displayed in front of a long table. The emperor and empress are sacrificed, or lead princes and ministers to eat meat." This kind of meat is called Furou, which means white meat.The so-called blood sausage, that is, "Sizu Manchuria entered in front of the high table, knelt down on one knee, poured blood into the intestines, and boiled them in a pot." This is blood sausage, commonly known as white meat blood sausage.The white meat restaurants opened in Shenyang and Jilin in the Qing Dynasty both sold blood sausage, which became a unique traditional dish of the Manchus in Liaoning and Jilin.

In addition to the few dishes mentioned above, Wang Baotian is also good at making whole pig mats.The whole pig banquet is a popular folk banquet in the Northeast of the Republic of China.Zhang Xueliang especially likes Wang Baotian's dishes cooked with offal such as pork liver, pork lung, and pork loin. Regarding the whole pig feast, we must mention the recipe of the whole pig feast in the Qing Dynasty. In 1854, Gu Mengchun, a famous chef in Qingzhou, Shandong, transcribed the most complete recipe of whole pig mat in existence according to the oral tradition of his ancestors.Among them, the richness of the dishes, the dominance of the names of the dishes, and the profundity of the culture are astonishing.

The cold meat dishes in the whole pig banquet include 16 dishes including chrysanthemum loin slices, smoked Shangtian ladder, and salted gemstones.There are sixty-two hot dishes such as three-level promotion, pipa and bear's paw, nine-turn jade ring, Taiji sausage, mandarin duck and butterfly, fairy's birthday, red leaves with frost, bear's belly with eggs, and open night.There are four kinds of barbecue such as duck fish and milk pig.There are eight kinds of meat dishes with the meal, such as braised pork, steamed pork with flour, Mantang Wufu, and bamboo leaf plum blossom soup.In addition, there are eight kinds of meat and vegetable dishes, four kinds of side dishes, and three kinds of noodles with twelve kinds of dishes.One soup, one porridge.

It is worth mentioning that Zhang Xueliang loves braised pork.Once, Bian Fusun, the general manager of the Shenyang Branch of the Bank of China, held a grand banquet and specially invited Zhang Xueliang to attend.Zhang Xueliang seldom moved his chopsticks at the table, so Bian Fusun specially asked the chef to make a plate of braised pork for the table.The young marshal took a piece and put it in his mouth, but he found it sweet, soft and glutinous, fat but not greasy, and he was full of praise. Back in the mansion, Zhang Xueliang was still full of ideas, and praised the braised pork in the dinner to Miss Zhao Si.Miss Zhao Si immediately proposed to exchange the chef with Bian Fusun with the chef of Shuai's mansion.At the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China, having a good cook at home was a symbol of a person's prominent status. Zhang Xueliang understood that it was very inappropriate to steal people's love.But in the end, he wrote a letter to Bian Fusun, saying that he really wanted to eat "that plate of braised pork" again, so he wanted to borrow a home cook.Of course Bian Fusun knew about it, and immediately donated the kitchen to the Shuaifu.

Since then, Zhang Xueliang has kept this famous chef with him for a long time. It is said that at that time, the chef's net worth was as high as 60 yuan a month.Ms. Zhao Si is from Zhejiang, so she likes this sweet braised pork very much.Later Miss Zhao Si and Zhang Xueliang also learned this dish, that's a later story. Wang Baotian will also make a dish of marinated meat with miso in the Marshal's Mansion.This dish is also a must-have dish for every meal when Zhang Xueliang is stationed in Beijing.Once, a banquet was held at the Beijing Hotel to entertain VIPs such as Zhang Qun and He Chengjun, special commissioners from the Nanjing government. After the table was filled with delicacies from mountains and seas, the chef specially asked the chef to add a plate of marinated meat with soy sauce, and asked the chef to introduce this dish in public. features.According to the chef, this dish originated from the folks in Northeast China and is marinated with homemade green sauce.Every autumn is the season for making marinated meat. Large pieces of fresh pork or trotters must be boiled, then put into gauze bags, sealed, and marinated in sauce jars.After several months, the essence of the sauce is absorbed into the meat, and then the meat is taken out of the gauze bag and steamed.Sliced ​​after being oiled, it becomes a dish.

A table of dignitaries applauded in unison after tasting it. Since then, marinated meat with soybean paste has become a must-have dish for Zhang Xueliang's banquets. Southerners make sauced meat by brushing the sauce directly on the meat, and then brushing it again after two or three days, for a total of three times.This method actually does not allow the sauce to fully soak into the meat.I also made some sauced meat myself. I put the raw meat directly into a jar filled with sweet noodle sauce, marinated it for half a month, and then hung it up to dry. The taste is very delicious.This approach borrows from that of the North.

When it comes to sauce, it is not only a condiment, but also a separate dish.In the pre-Qin period, there was a kind of 醢, which was the predecessor of sauce.The history of the Western Han Dynasty has "Ji Jiu Pian", which writes: "The sauce is made of beans and noodles." The "Lunheng" written by Wang Chong of the Eastern Han Dynasty has introduced how to make soybean paste, which proves that soybean paste was made at that time. It has become popular among the people.In addition to soybean paste, there was wolfberry sauce at that time, which was a famous product in Sichuan.

In cooking, soybean paste is often used in the south, which is an important seasoning in Cantonese cuisine.Doubanjiang is mostly used in Southwest China and is one of the most important seasonings in Sichuan cuisine, such as Pixian Douban.Noodle sauces are often used in the north, such as Beijing roast duck, fried chicken with sauce, and fried noodles. They all use noodle sauces, and Fangshan’s fried four sauces (fried hazelnut sauce, cucumber sauce, pea sauce, and carrot sauce) are famous all over the world. . Because the sauce is moderately viscous, delicious, and has a unique color, it is loved by chefs everywhere.

Traditional Chinese medicine believes that soy sauce is salty and cold in nature, and has the effect of detoxifying heat. Taking it orally can relieve summer heat, visceral heat, and various drug poisons and damp poisons.Zhang Xueliang later lived to be one hundred and one years old, which should also be related to this dietary preference.