Chapter 28 Sanyuan Youzixin

Wandering abroad, often miss the taste of hometown.Generally speaking, what he misses most should be the snacks in his hometown, then the famous dishes in his hometown, and finally the famous restaurants in his hometown.Yu Youren wandered abroad all his life, and these thoughts are also indispensable.Yu Youren's hometown is in Sanyuan County, Shaanxi Province. Every time he goes home to visit relatives, he must eat the special dishes of his hometown, including three shrimp tofu, crucian carp in white soup, white seal book, tenderloin in clear soup, dry-stir-fried eel, and square meat.He also likes Sanyuan's dim sum, such as golden thread oil tower and pimple noodles.

Pimple noodles are traditional pasta in Sanyuan County.Pimple noodles, also known as "monkey on the pole", are not lumps, but boiled noodles that are wrapped in a circle, added with soup and seasonings, and shaken in a bowl before eating. According to legend, Tang Gaozu Li Yuan died of wind disease in the ninth year of Tang Zhenguan (635) and was buried in Xianling (located in today's Sanyuan County).Emperor Taizong of Tang Dynasty Li Shimin stopped at Wangdian Village, Dacheng Township on the way to pay homage to the tomb of Gaozu. Before liberation, Zhang Rong, the chef of Mingdeting, a famous restaurant in Sanyuan, was the best at making this kind of noodles. The noodles he made were poured with saozi, stirred up with chopsticks, and the saozi all stuck to the noodles, leaving no minced meat at the bottom of the bowl. stunt.This noodle is a bit like Chengdu "crispy noodle".

The three original famous snacks include pao'er oil cake, Yulin Yanxi Jiadian Xiangna, and Dingbian Tang Sanzi. These three kinds of dim sum can be found in the "Shaowei Food List" written by Wei Juyuan, a minister of the Tang Dynasty.Among them, Pao'er oil cake is the oil bath cake in the Shaowei food list, also known as Jianfengxiao.Xiangna is called Misfortune Cake in the food list, and Tang Sanzi is called Crispy Honey Hanju. Speaking of desserts, I especially want to mention the Wangjia walnut biscuits in Ningqiang County, southern Shaanxi. In 1942, Yu Youren passed through Ningqiang County on his way to Sichuan. After eating this snack, he was full of praise.The practice of this dim sum is to use oil surface fermented dough, spread walnut mud to make cake base and bake.In the twenty-sixth year of the reign of Emperor Guangxu of the Qing Dynasty, the Eight-Power Allied Forces invaded Beijing, and the Empress Dowager Cixi fled to Xi'an. Wang's walnut pancakes were used as tributes for the royal family to enjoy.

The aforementioned square meat is steamed with pork belly and day lily.This dish is fat and not greasy, and the day lily is delicious, which is deeply loved by Yu Lao. Another dish that Yu Youren likes is Baifengshu, also known as Baifengrou.The color of this dish is white, the soup jelly is bright, like a crystal, it is fresh, tender, soft and fragrant.Later, when Yu Youren came to Taiwan, he often missed these dishes. Sanyuan cuisine is actually an important part of Shaanxi cuisine. Sanyuan is located in the Guanzhong area, which is rich in cotton, salt, tobacco, and vegetables. Therefore, merchants gather, the market is prosperous, and merchant vegetables can flourish.The current Cantonese cuisine, as well as those described in the article, all have the characteristics of Shangjia cuisine.

According to my research, the biggest difference between Shaanxi cuisine and other cuisines is that its famous dishes are distributed in various regions of the province, unlike other cuisines whose famous dishes are only concentrated in a few important cities in the region.For example, Sichuan cuisine is concentrated in the three cities of Chengdu, Chongqing, and Zigong. Due to the influence of its geographical location and historical heritage, Shaanxi cuisine has finally formed six major systems, mainly consisting of palace cuisine, official residence cuisine and folk cuisine, supplemented by hermit private kitchen cuisine, minority cuisine and restaurant delicacies.Represented by Xi'an City, Sanyuan City, and Dali County.

The most famous in Xi'an should be Huang Gui Chou wine, which is well-known all over the country. It was called mash in the Zhou and Qin Dynasties, and it was called Yujiang in the Tang Dynasty. It should be this kind of wine that the imperial concubine got drunk. On the Ching Ming Festival in 1912, Yu Youren visited the Xuji Chou Hotel in Changlefang, Dongguan, Xi'an. Chou Hotel" title plaque. Famous dishes in Xi'an include pot fish in milk soup and shredded waist with warm mix. In the Tang Dynasty, because people from the Western Regions lived in Xi'an, the eating habits here were deeply influenced by the Western Regions. Of course, the most representative one is steamed buns with beef and mutton.This kind of steamed bun was called "Xigong Mo Hu Yang Geng" in Tang Dynasty.The "Qin Cooking Wei Yang Geng" praised by Song Su Dongpo is also mutton steamed bun.

The local dishes of Guanzhong, East and West prefectures also make up Shaanxi dishes, in today's Dali, Fengxiang, Hanzhong, and Yulin areas.Their common feature is that they are affordable and rich in local flavor.Representative dishes include spicy tofu, fried meat, and hot and sour tripe soup from Dongfu, smoked chicken, watercress salamander, fried shredded duck from Hanzhong, three shreds of stewed meat and steamed mutton from Yulin. Since Shaanxi is rich in chili peppers and is adjacent to Sichuan in the south, Shaanxi cuisine and Sichuan cuisine have many things in common. Yu Youren lived to be eighty-six years old, which is related to his way of keeping in good health.

There is a pair of couplets hanging in Yu Youren's home. The first couplet is "Don't think about eighty-nine", and the second couplet is "Always think about one or two".Mr. Yu used this to encourage himself to always think about the bright spots in life, and for the unsatisfactory things in nine out of ten, he should adjust his mentality at any time, be grateful with his heart, and finally overcome these sufferings with open-mindedness and perseverance.I call this couplet the "heart meal" that Yu Lao cooked for the world. Of course, Yu Lao not only mends his heart, but also mends his body.

His favorite medicinal meal is stewed old duck with Gorgon fruit, which is used to quench thirst and nourish the kidneys, diuresis and invigorate the spleen.The method is to use 500 grams of Gorgon fruit and 1,500 grams of an old duck, stuff the Gorgon fruit into the belly of the duck, put it into a casserole with green onions, ginger, and rice wine, simmer for three hours in clear water, and remove from the pot Add salt for the first two to three minutes. Gorgon is the mature seed kernel of water lily plants, also known as chicken head rice and wild goose head rice.Sweet and astringent in nature and flavor, flat, enters the spleen and kidney channels.Function: invigorating the spleen and relieving diarrhea, nourishing the kidney and strengthening essence, dispelling dampness and stopping belt.The old duck meat can nourish the yin of the five internal organs, clear away the heat of fatigue, nourish the blood and promote water, nourish the stomach and promote body fluid.

It is said that Yu Youren suffered from diabetes (diabetes) in his early years. He stewed old duck with Gorgon fruit for several years, and his symptoms disappeared completely, and his complexion was ruddy all his life.I told this recipe to my diabetic friends. Speaking of duck, Kong Xiangxi and Wu Zhihui like to cook stewed duck soup with ginseng at home among the top members of the Kuomintang.Wu Zhihui eats a duck every two days. From the Song Dynasty, the rulers of all dynasties in China, until Qianlong and Cixi in the Qing Dynasty, and Yuan Shikai in the Republic of China, all especially liked to eat duck.It is said that Cixi must have more than three kinds of duck dishes in every meal, and Yuan Shikai must eat a stewed fat duck every day, and this duck is fed with velvet antler and sorghum.It's quite a feast for the ducks...