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Chapter 99 Idle Boiled Tieguanyin

Food and Wine 巴陵 1888Words 2018-03-18
Drinking Tieguanyin tea requires leisure and mood to taste.Cooking alone is tasteless, and it is boring if there are too many people. It is best to invite a few friends to chat about personal affairs and ideals, and to drink the strong fragrance of Tieguanyin tea, which will give you a special taste. I drink Tieguanyin, and I often like to do it in the afternoon.In Beijing, I often drink Tieguanyin with Xu Qiang. After finishing the work in the morning and taking a nap, the spirit is extremely relaxed. enjoy.In Changsha, I often warm the pot with my wife to hold knees. Usually, after dinner, we take a walk home and rest while making tea. We recall our love when we met and our marriage life over the years. It is also worthy of a warm record with the taste of tea. .

These are all my sensory experiences, which always feel superficial and superficial.I have been to many places in Fujian. Accompanied by friends, I went deep into the tea town of Anxi Gande, learned about local tea farmers, familiar with local folk customs and Tieguanyin production, and also got the guidance of old tea farmers and participated in their Tieguanyin tasting and appreciation. It is a supreme taste of life. Anxi is located in the south-central part of Fujian, the upper reaches of Xixi River in Jinjiang.It is located on the southeast slope of Daiyun Mountains, high in the northwest and low in the southeast.There are many mountains in the territory, bounded by Wulang Mountain and Dushihu Mountain, the west is called Nei'an River, and the east is called Wai'an River.The terrain of Outer Anxi is relatively low, dominated by low mountains and hills and beaded valley basins; the terrain of Inner Anxi is relatively high, dominated by mountains.Gande Town is located in the northwest of Anxi County, bordering Jiandou Town in the east, Changkeng, Xianghua, and Futian in the south, Yidu and Hengkou in Yongchun County in the north, Zhangping City in the west, and Taozhou in the northwest.It is warm and humid, with abundant rainfall, sweet springs and red soil, and fertile soil. The terrain is about 500 meters above sea level, which is suitable for the growth of tea trees, especially sour tea.

Gande tea production began at the end of the Tang Dynasty and has a history of more than a thousand years. It is one of the main production areas of Tieguanyin with abundant tea tree resources and high-quality tea. In 2009, Gande had nearly 60,000 mu of tea gardens, and was known as "the first tea town in China".The tea is characterized by high quality, fragrant taste and strong rhyme, and is very popular among tea drinkers.With the development of the Gande tea industry, a unique Gande tea culture has gradually formed, with unique tea culture connotations such as tea history, tea customs, tea songs, tea ceremonies, etc. I have to admire these tea farmers.

Tieguanyin was invented between 1725 and 1735. It is an oolong tea, a semi-fermented tea between green tea and black tea. It has a unique Guanyin charm, fragrance and elegance.There is a poem that goes: "Seven bubbles are still in the fragrant stream and the moon dew, and the heart is full of joy and joy." In the eighth year of the Republic of China, Tieguanyin was introduced from Anxi, Fujian Province to the Mucha area for trial planting. It is divided into two types: red heart and green heart. The main production area is Wenshan period. The tree is a horizontal type, with thick and hard branches, loose leaves, few buds and thick leaves, and the yield is not high, but the quality of Baozhong tea is high, and the production period is later than that of Qingxin Oolong.Its tree nature is slightly, the leaves are oval, and the leaves are thick and fleshy.

The Tieguanyin tea tree is delicate by nature and has a low yield.The purebred Tieguanyin plant is a shrub type, with a spreading tree vigor, oblique branches, and horizontal leaves.The leaf shape is elliptical, the leaf edge teeth are sparse and blunt, the leaf surface is wavy and raised, obviously rib-shaped, slightly reversed to the back, the mesophyll is thick, the leaf color is dark green and shiny, the leaf base is slightly blunt, the leaf tip is slightly concave, and slightly to the left. Crooked, slightly sagging, and the buds are purple-red, known as "red buds and crooked tail peaches".After visiting several tea gardens, I realized that the fresh leaves of Tieguanyin are somewhat different from the middle-leaf tea, which is the raw material of Hunan dark tea. The leaves are thick and hard.

Anxi Tieguanyin can be divided into four categories: light fragrance type, strong fragrance type, rhyme fragrance type and aged tea.Fen-flavor type is high-grade tea, which is produced in high-altitude and rock-based soil. It has a sharp, strong aroma, strong and long-lasting fragrance, fresh and refreshing floral fragrance, mellow and sweet, full of Guanyin rhyme, and the tea soup is golden and green, clear and bright.The mouth, tongue, teeth, and gums all have a stimulating and sharp feeling.The Luzhou-flavor type is made by traditional crafts, baked slowly over warm fire, cooled quickly by wet wind, mellow and sweet, fat and tight in shape, dark in color, pure in aroma, with sweet floral or honey, millet aroma, and deep golden in color Or orange-yellow, the taste is mellow and smooth, the phonology is obvious, and the bottom of the leaf has a lingering fragrance, which can be brewed many times.Tea is mild in nature, quenches thirst and promotes body fluid, warms stomach and invigorates spleen.The rhyme flavor type is baked at high temperature, the taste is mellow, the fermentation is sufficient, the traditional flavor is strong, the flavor is high, the aftertaste is good, and the flavor is full.Aged Tieguanyin has the effects of curing colds, indigestion, lowering blood pressure and lipids, and preventing diabetes, etc. Others are not inferior to new teas.

The production of Tieguanyin is divided into stir-frying and dragging. Stir-frying is according to the traditional production process, and the greens are fried at noon the next day after picking.The dry tea is sandy green, the soup is yellow-green, bright and white; the soup tastes smooth, lively and thick, with strong fruit aroma, obvious Guanyin rhyme, sweet aftertaste, and lingering fragrance; the leaf background is yellow-green, shiny, and soft.Put it under the air conditioner, and fry the greens in the pot after the afternoon of the next day or the third day.It has refreshing fragrance and sour fragrance or clear sour taste, dry tea green, soup color green, and leaf bottom green.

Tieguanyin is harvested open-faced, and the fresh leaves are fresh and complete. Cooling, sun-drying and shaking are carried out until the natural floral fragrance is released.After the raw tea is made, it is screened, winnowed, sorted, evenly piled, and packaged to make commercial tea.I participated in the picking of tea leaves, and under the guidance of tea farmers, I learned how to fry tea and roll tea, which is much more complicated and cumbersome than the production of black tea in my hometown.When I drink Tieguanyin in the future, I will taste the hard work in the tea more carefully. Tea farmers told me that the best way to drink Tieguanyin is from stone springs, the best stove is from charcoal fire, and the best tea set is small.The whole brewing process is divided into eight processes: white crane bathing, oolong entering the palace, hanging pot high, spring breeze blowing, Guan Gong patrolling the city, Han Xin ordering soldiers, appreciating the color of the soup, and tasting the rain.After a busy day's work, we brewed Tieguanyin with a ceramic tureen, and listened to the tea farmers' stories while tasting the tea. Although there were some legends about Tieguanyin and the stories of tea farmers' entrepreneurship and distribution in the market, I was still fascinated by it.During this period of study, I can distinguish the pros and cons of Tieguanyin from observing the shape, listening to the sound, observing the color, smelling the fragrance, and tasting the rhyme. Slightly sour with a special character.

When I returned to Changsha, I still missed the days of tasting and making tea in Gande.
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