Chapter 76 Peking belly

Baodu is a Beijing-style snack. It is a collective name for Tangbaodu, and it is mostly run by Hui people.There are three methods of fried belly, including oil fried, coriander fried, and soup fried.Youbao and coriander are mostly made by old restaurants and restaurants, and soup is white water, mostly made by street stalls.The "explosion" in "explosive tripe" refers to its fast speed. The tripe of beef and sheep is cut into horizontal shreds and placed in boiling water to blanch.Exploding belly requires a large amount of water, rolling away, and strong firepower. Different parts of the belly have different requirements for heat. Experts use hand bursting for five seconds for loose pills, seven seconds for belly planks, and eight seconds for belly gourds, belly collars, and belly mushrooms.If the bursting time is short, the belly slices are still raw and the taste is not enough; if the bursting time is long, the bursting belly slices are too old and the original flavor is lost; only when the bursting heat is just right, the belly slices taste crisp and delicious. Tender and chewy, the more you chew, the more flavorful it becomes: the tripe kernels are rich in water, very tender and slightly crispy, the mushroom heads are delicious and smooth, and you can only swallow them whole if you can't chew them.

Soup tripe is divided into two types: sheep tripe and beef tripe. The beef tripe is divided into four types: louver, tripe kernel, thick head, and venetian tip. The sheep tripe is divided into Dan, tripe collar, tripe plate, mushroom, mushroom tip, food letter, gourd, There are nine kinds of grass teeth, tripe kernels and tripe silk.After frying, add condiments such as soy sauce, rice vinegar, sesame paste, sesame oil, fermented bean curd, shrimp oil, green onion, coriander, garlic juice, chili oil, etc., to taste the best. Soup-boiled tripe is only suitable for lamb tripe and beef tripe. The other parts of tripe are thick and tough, so it is not suitable for water-boiled tripe, and it cannot be eaten after a long time.

The lamb tripe is soft and white after being washed. Common tripe stalls divide the tripe into four parts, which are given proper names.Immediately after the esophagus is the largest rumen, with small towel-shaped sarcoma, commonly known as belly plate.There are two belly plates, and there is a thicker meat peak at the junction, which is the most tender, called belly collar.The belly collar is peeled and only the inner meat is white and thick, which is called belly kernel.The honeycomb stomach shaped like a series of squares is called belly gourd.The double omasum is like a piece of cloth folded page by page, called Sandan, also called louver.The ruminant stomach is commonly known as belly mushroom, which is slippery and soft, and the smaller section near the intestine is called mushroom tip.The most expensive sheep tripe is tripe kernel, followed by louver and mushroom, and tripe board is the cheapest.Yangsan Dan is the small stomach of a sheep, a plate of Sandan needs the stomachs of four sheep; a sheep belly collar is the backbone of a sheep's big stomach, and a plate of belly collar needs the stomachs of six sheep; the sheep belly plate is the big stomach of a sheep , the taste is old, chewy and elastic, the belly plate is thinly cut into pieces, and a small bowl will appear when it explodes.

The cow louver is the small stomach of a cow, with different colors, showing black, yellow, green and other colors. The cow louver that eats feed turns black, and the cow louver that eats grain and straw turns yellow.Tripe kernels are the backbone of the big stomach of a cow. The middle part is called the girder, and the part at the end is called the sancha. The girder is tenderer than the sancha. The tripe soup is boiled water with shredded green onions and peppercorns. It is tasteless in itself, and the taste is all assisted by seasonings to achieve a delicious effect.The seasoning of the tripe is mainly sesame paste, supplemented by soy sauce, chili oil, coriander, green onion, and curd.When the belly is fried in the pot, the amount used at one time is very small, only half a small bowl each time, about two taels, each piece is heated evenly, and the degree of ripeness is the same.

Old Beijingers pay attention to "eating autumn". There is a saying that "if you want to eat autumn, you will have a belly", and the belly is used to distinguish autumn and winter.During the reign of Emperor Qianlong in the Qing Dynasty, every year at the end of autumn and early winter, halal restaurants and street vendors in Beijing operated Baodu stones, Baodu stones on overpasses, and Baodu poplars in door frame alleys, which gathered many diners; Become famous and become a hot item among diners. Baodu Feng was created by Feng Tianjie, a famous chef in Shandong, during the Guangxu period of the Qing Dynasty.There are 13 kinds of fried tripe according to the different parts of beef and sheep tripe.Pay attention to the freshness of sheep tripe and tripe, without dry goods and water; fine workmanship, picking, cutting, and cutting pay attention to skills and knowledge; strictly control the time and heat of bursting; the seasoning is exquisite and delicate.Baodu Feng divides sheep tripe into nine parts: gourd, food letter, tripe board, tripe core, tripe kernel, belly collar, loose pill, mushroom, and mushroom head, and beef tripe into tripe kernel, louver, louver tip, thick head, etc. Four parts, often made with three kinds of sheep, four kinds of sheep and a combination platter of several parts.

Belly Explosion King was created by Wang Jinliang, with a history of one hundred years. His belly explosion is unique in the capital, known as the "King of Belly Explosion".Baodu Wang only makes Baodu kernels, loose pills, beef louvers, belly plates, belly collars, etc., and pays attention to the selection, processing, and seasoning of materials, and makes them according to traditional techniques.The raw materials must be butchered fresh tripe the day before, and the beef louvers and sheep dandans are washed leaf by leaf. The thickness and thickness of the knife are neat and not broken.The fried belly kernels and fried beef venetian leaves were first created by Wang and his son. The belly kernels are milky white, like shrimps, and the beef venetian leaves are crisp and tender, with a unique flavor.

Soup belly has a unique flavor and goes well with wine. You can drink it alone, but it is not suitable for sea drinks. It is only available in taverns and food stalls.My good friend Xu Qiang and I like to drink some wine and enjoy slow food, so we choose to pass the time by eating fried belly at a small stall.When the stall owner sells fried tripe, he will cook it in boiling water according to the price specified by the customer. We ordered tripe kernels, tripe boards, tripe collars, beef louvers and other things.The stall owner told us that to keep the fried belly crispy and tender, it must be eaten in time, and it will regenerate when it is slightly cold, and it cannot be chewed after a long time.We just eat now, eat one kind and eat another, and treat drinking as chatting.Eat only one piece at a time, wipe the bottom of the bowl with coriander and shallots and dip it in the seasoning, pay attention to the texture of the teeth, and there is the sound of chewing gherkins.

People who have a good taste should know how to eat fried belly, and those who don't know how to eat it can at most taste the crispness of a beef louver.I listened to the comments of the customers sitting next to me. They ate all kinds of fried belly, and they all tasted delicious.The highest state of eating fried belly is to eat belly collar, which is crispy on the outside and tender on the inside, crisp when biting, and tender after biting.The belly collar is precious, very tender, even tenderer than the belly kernel. The outer skin of the sheep belly collar should be peeled off to eat, and the cow's belly collar can be directly burst.The heat of the belly collar is very particular, because it is too tender, and it will be too old to eat after a little heat.The mushroom tip is the essence of the mushroom, only a small piece, it tastes very crisp and tender, which makes people have endless aftertaste.

After eating Beijing Baodu, I knew the unique skills and exquisiteness of Beijing Chike, which made me sigh.