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Chapter 59 Mindong Buddha jumps over the wall

Food and Wine 巴陵 2762Words 2018-03-18
When I went to Fujian, someone recommended a famous dish to me——Buddha Tiaoqiang, one of the five famous dishes of Fujian cuisine.After hearing this, I felt itchy, and I thought that Fujian must find a chance to eat it once and taste the taste.The destination of this itinerary is Xiamen. I participated in a food culture event. I was received by a friend of Xiamen Airlines. He was a brother I had known for a long time.The purpose of my trip to Fujian was to promote their company's food, and by the way, I went to visit cultural attractions in Fujian to discuss literature and writing with friends.

After I learned about Buddha Jumping Wall from the Internet, I gave up the idea of ​​eating it.Buddha Tiaoqiang is an expensive and famous dish with many raw materials and complicated preparation.I have always eaten ordinary dishes, advocated looking for folk cuisine, and have no interest in big dishes. When I arrived in Fuzhou, Xia who came to pick me up told me that he had ordered two Gu Buddha Jumping Walls in Juchun Garden.Walking into Juchun Garden with Xia, the quaint architectural style can examine the historical and cultural deposits of Juchun Garden, and it also made me admire the Buddha Jumping over the Wall.

After I sat down, Xia introduced me to Buddha Jumping Over the Wall.Buddha jumping wall is made of 18 kinds of raw materials including sea cucumber, abalone, shark's fin, scallop, fish lip, fish maw, razor clam, ham, pork belly, sheep and elbow, hoof tip, tendon, chicken breast, duck breast, chicken gizzard, duck gizzard, mushroom and winter bamboo shoots become.The 18 kinds of raw materials are cooked by frying, frying, cooking and deep-frying respectively, and then stacked in the Shaoxing wine jar, and the soup and Shaoxing wine are added to fully integrate the soup, wine and vegetables. Stew for five or six hours before you can taste it.He also told me that Fotiaoqiang has a history of more than 100 years, and the most authentic one is Fuzhou Juchun Garden.

I have also heard about the origin of the dish of Buddha jumping over the wall from other places. There are three legends in Fuzhou folks.First, in 1876 (at the end of Tongzhi in the Qing Dynasty), an official from the Fuzhou Yangqiao Lane Official Money Bureau hosted a family banquet for Fujian Chief Secretary Zhou Lian, and asked Mrs. Shaoji to cook Fushouquan. Zhou Lian was full of praise after eating, so Zheng Chunfa, the chef of the yamen, was ordered to imitate it.After Zheng Dengmen asked for advice, he reformed the ingredients, using more seafood and less meat, making the dishes more meaty and delicious. In 1877, Zheng left Zhou Yafu and opened a Juchunyuan restaurant in Fuzhou. Fushouquan became the main dish and caused a sensation in Rongcheng.Because the sound of Fushouquan in Fuzhou dialect is similar to that of Buddha Tiaoqiang, many diners mistakenly think that it is Buddha Tiaoqiang, so they changed the name.A scholar smelled the fragrance of meat and meat after Fushouquan opened the altar, and his poetry flourished. He immediately chanted: "The fragrance of meat and meat floated around the altar when the altar was opened, and the Buddha jumped over the wall after hearing the abandonment of Zen." The poem became more famous.Second, the traditional customs of Fujian are called test kitchen.On the third day after entering the house, the newlywed daughter-in-law has to cook a meal to serve her in-laws in order to test her housework ability.It is said that a rich girl was spoiled and spoiled, not used to cooking, and was very sad before she got married. Her mother wrapped the delicacies made at home in lotus leaves for her, and told her to heat them up and serve them on the table.On the third day, the lady forgot the cooking technique, and in a hurry, poured all the vegetables into the Shaoxing wine jar, covered with lotus leaves, put them on the stove, and ran back to her mother's house by herself.The next day, the strong fragrance wafted out, and the husband's family even praised the delicious dishes, which is the origin of eighteen dishes cooked in one pot.Third, Mr. Fei Xiaotong researched and investigated, and believed that the Buddha jumped over the wall was done by a group of beggars.Beggars carry clay bowls and jars to beg everywhere every day, pour all kinds of leftovers and cook them together, steaming and fragrant.The monk smelled the fragrance, couldn't help being tempted, jumped out of the wall, and feasted.A restaurant owner went out and smelled the strange fragrance, and found some broken earthen jars. From then on, he was enlightened and returned to the shop to mix various ingredients in a pot, paired with Shaoxing wine, and created Buddha Jumping Wall.According to investigation, the monk is the eminent monk Xuanquan.

In 1965 and 1980, Fuzhou cuisine competitions focusing on cooking Buddha Tiaoqiang were held in Guangzhou Nanyuan and Hong Kong respectively, which caused a sensation and sparked a craze for Buddha Tiaoqiang all over the world.Restaurants opened by overseas Chinese in various places often use Buddha Jumping over the Wall to attract customers.Fotiaoqiang has been vigorously developed, and has also received Prince Sihanouk, Reagan, and Elizabeth, and is highly appreciated by them. Knowing that I like to study food, Xia called Chef Juchunyuan to explain to me the ingredients and production methods of Buddha Jumping Wall.Chef Chubby stood opposite me, smiling all over his face when he spoke, his eyes narrowed.At first he was a little cautious, afraid that I might be an expert in the industry, I saw him like this, asked him to sit next to me, and asked him to relax.Tell him that I don't know much about Fujian cuisine, just talk about it casually, and add some knowledge to me.

Chef cleared his throat and tried several times to speak out.The ingredients for Buddha Tiaoqiang are strictly proportioned. A can of Shaoxing wine altar Buddha Tiaoqiang requires about 500 grams of water-fat shark fin, 6 clean duck gizzards, 250 grams of water-fat sea cucumber, 12 pigeon eggs, 1 fat hen, and water-fat mushrooms. 200 grams, 250 grams of water-fat pork tendons, 95 grams of pig fat, 1 pork belly, 75 grams of ginger slices, 500 grams of lamb knuckles, 95 grams of scallions, 150 grams of clean ham tendons, 10 grams of cinnamon, and scallops 125 grams, 2,500 grams of Shaoxing wine, 500 grams of winter bamboo shoots, 10 grams of monosodium glutamate, 250 grams of Shuifa fish lips, 75 grams of rock sugar, 125 grams of bream belly, 75 grams of soy sauce, 1,000 grams of abalone, 1,000 grams of pork bone soup, and tip of pig’s trotters 1000 grams, 1000 grams cooked lard, 1 net duck.Other ingredients and accessories cannot be added at will, otherwise the taste will change.

The chef also reminded that the production of Buddha Jumping over the Wall also pays special attention to the methods and techniques, and must be done in the same way.He introduced in detail that the shark's fins were made with water to remove the sand, and the whole row was picked on the bamboo grate to remove the fishy smell, and the pork fat was added and steamed for 2 hours.Cut the fish lip into strips to remove the fishy smell.The Qian Baowang is steamed and sliced.Pigeon eggs boiled and shelled.Remove the heads, necks, and feet of chickens and ducks, remove the shells from the pig’s trotters, wash them, and clean the sheep’s elbows.Put the pork belly into boiling water, remove the turbid smell, and cut into 12 pieces.Wash the water-haired sea cucumber and cut into two pieces.Wash the water-fat pork tendons and cut into 2-inch long sections.After the ham tendon is steamed, cut into 1 cm thick slices.Put the winter bamboo shoots in boiling water for a while, cut each into 4 pieces, and smash them flat.Put the cooked lard in a pot and heat it to 70% heat. Fry the pigeon eggs and winter bamboo shoots for 2 minutes. Put the high belly of the fish in the pot and fry until the hand can be broken. piece.Leave the remaining oil in the pot, put the chicken, duck, lamb knuckle, pig's trotter tip, duck gizzard, and pork belly and fry for a few times.Wash the Shaoxing wine jar, add 500 grams of water, heat it on low heat, pour out the water in the jar, put a bamboo grate on the bottom of the jar, put the boiled chicken, duck, sheep, elbow, pig's trotter tip, duck gizzard, pork belly and mushrooms Put in bamboo shoots, shark's fin, ham, scallops, and abalone into a rectangular shape with gauze, place them on top of chicken, duck, etc., pour in the soup of boiled chicken, duck, and other ingredients, seal the mouth of the altar with lotus leaves, and turn the porcelain upside down. bowl.Put the wine jar on a charcoal stove, simmer over low heat for 2 hours, then remove the lid, put the sea cucumber, tendon, fish lip, and fish belly into the jar, seal the mouth of the jar immediately, and simmer for another hour to take it out.When serving, pour all the altar vegetables into a large basin, open the gauze bag, and put the pigeon eggs on top.

Guests will also be served with a dish of coir raincoat and radish, a dish of ham mixed with bean sprouts, a dish of fried bean sprouts with mushrooms, a dish of oily mustard, silk rolls, and sesame seed cakes. Looking at the two antique food cups, I immediately smelled a tangy aroma of wine, which hit my heart and spleen, and then the strong aroma spread, filling the entire box.The soup in the food cup is thick brown, thick but not greasy.Then the aroma of various seafood is released, which is mixed with the smell of Shaoxing wine. Instead of diluting or canceling each other, the flavors are mixed, and the flavor is more elegant and fragrant.Taste the soup lightly, it is thick, smooth and delicious, the taste is delicious, and the aftertaste is endless, and then drink the green tea, the aroma of seafood is still flying and spreading in the mouth.Looking for the seafood in the soup, the shape is no longer obvious, but it is rotten but not rotten, and it is soft, waxy, smooth, refreshing and elastic.Slowly taste and feel, there is a kind of rising.

The chef specially introduced to me the nutritional value of Buddha Tiaoqiang: shark fin is rich in colloid, is a high-protein, low-sugar, and low-fat food, has the effects of lowering blood fat, anti-arteriosclerosis, etc., and has preventive effects on cardiovascular system diseases. Appetizing and eating, clearing phlegm Eliminate fish stagnation, nourish the five internal organs, increase waist strength, and benefit deficiency and tuberculosis.Abalone is rich in calcium, iron, iodine and vitamin A, and has the functions of nourishing yin, clearing away heat, benefiting essence and improving eyesight.Pheasant meat is high in calcium, phosphorus, and iron, and has a good therapeutic effect on anemia and the infirm. It also has the effects of strengthening the spleen and stomach, increasing appetite, and stopping diarrhea.Dried scallops have the functions of nourishing yin and tonifying kidney, and regulating the stomach.Bamboo shoots are rich in niacin and dietary fiber, which can promote intestinal peristalsis, digestion, digestion, prevent constipation, and have the effect of preventing digestive tract tumors.

The chef specially reminds: Buddha Tiaoqiang already has a lot of ingredients, which are originally complementary foods, so avoid eating them with sesame, chrysanthemum, plum, rabbit meat, and mustard, otherwise there will be food intoxication and poisoning. After arriving in Xiamen, I got to know many Fujian cuisine experts, and consulted a lot of Fujian cuisine books, only to know that Fotiaoqiang is the essence of Fujian cuisine, Juchun Garden is the birthplace of Fotiaoqiang, and Fotiaoqiang is made authentic and authentic, with dozens of ingredients It is really rare to simmer in one jar, but maintain their respective characteristics and fragrances.

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