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Chapter 57 Ping Jiang fried meat

Food and Wine 巴陵 1757Words 2018-03-18
People in Pingjiang raise pigs and eat meat, and they are particular about it.When eating pork, the skin must be peeled except for the New Year’s meat.Butchering pigs should be accurate, the blood should be tender, and the blood of year pigs should be old. For the sake of auspiciousness, paper burning and firecrackers should be burned to save it.In the custom of Pingjiang, pork knuckles are the most precious. The pig knuckles with feet are given to the father-in-law as the first year, and the pig knuckles without feet are filial to grandma. The second is pork belly, which is given to the uncle and handed over to the mother; other meat is eaten by the family. .

People in Pingjiang have many special names for pig parts. Pig blood is called Wangzi, tongue is called earning head, pig mouth is called Congzui, and pig ears are called Shunfeng.People in Pingjiang love to eat pig offal. Pork liver, pork belly, pig intestines, and pork loin are all good things for them to entertain distinguished guests. They also pay attention to using six, eight, nine, and ten bowls to distinguish the identity of guests.There is also a special custom in donating pork. Shipbuilding oars reward craftsmen with pig ears;For a banquet, only one bowl of pork can be served, and two or more bowls are forbidden.People in Dongxiang, Pingjiang, eat meat, which is called Daya Ji, and pigs killed during the New Year are called Jienian pigs. The butcher cuts the meat into pieces, and after salting, they are forbidden to eat it.

The most famous love banquet in Pingjiang is called Qixi, which is inseparable from meat, but rarely uses meat.The first bowl of the banquet is called fried meat, which is made of flour wrapped with fat or fried in pork chops, cut into thin slices, and added with broth. To make Pingjiang fried meat, first dilute the flour and water, add an appropriate amount of salt, mix well, and make a thin paste.Set up the oil pan, boil the tea oil, coat the fatty meat or pork suet with a layer of flour paste, and then carefully put it into the steaming oil pan. The calm oil pan immediately bubbles up and starts to boil.Flour batter is gradually fried and yellowed, and the fried meat slowly floats out of the oil surface from the bottom of the pan. After the oil surface dries up, the fried meat is ready. Pick it up with chopsticks or a colander, and then take it out of the pan and keep it cool for later use.

The most important thing for frying fried meat is to grasp the heat, which is the key to test the chef's real skill.If the fire is high and the heat is urgent, the fried meat will be fried when it is put into the pan, the outside will be battered and the inside will be raw, or the flour will be burnt;Experts make fried meat, and one person can control the whole audience. The fried meat is crispy on the outside and crispy on the inside. When you cut the fried meat, the dough is like steamed steamed buns, with many honeycomb holes hidden in it. Fat meat and pork suet pass through the pores Steamed with steam, it looks fresh and fragrant, smells mellow, and chews with good toughness.In the past, poor people held banquets, and the fried meat was not wrapped with fat meat or pork suet, and it was directly replaced with pure flour dough. The fried meat was like steamed buns just out of the pan, and became a delicious snack for children. It was soft and chewy after a bite. , but also the smell of meat, very greedy.

It is not enough to remove the first bowl and serve the fried meat just out of the oil pan, it needs further processing.Cut the fried meat into 1cm-thick slices and steam on a steamer until soft.Stir-fry fresh meat slices, add white radish slices, garlic and various seasonings, mix with soup to make a pot of bright and delicious noodle soup, put the steamed fried meat slices into a bowl, pile up with sharp A bowl, solemnly served. According to Zeng Guangrong, there are two theories about the birth of fried meat. One is that poor people have no meat to entertain guests, and fried meat is used instead of pork.The other is to hold white weddings and do temples to eat vegetarian food. You can’t serve meat, and fried meat is used instead.Regardless of the origin of fried meat, its delicious and filling function can never be replaced by other delicacies, and it is well-deserved as the first bowl of withdrawal.

The current Pingjiang fried meat has undergone countless improvements. Adding eggs, diced fat meat, etc. to the flour makes the fried meat even more delicious.You can also add orange peel, green onion and other spices according to your own eating habits.Most of the fried meat that is popular now is stuffed, and various meat fillings are wrapped in flour.There are two kinds of fried meat stuffing that Pingjiang people like to eat the most, one is the ren slice cake, two pieces of ren slice cake are clamped and wrapped in flour batter and fried in a pan, or biscuits are used instead of the ren slice cake; the other is the unique tiger skin egg in Pingjiang. , Boil the eggs and peel off the shells, cut the eggs into four pieces with cotton thread, the egg yolks are not separated from the protein, put the egg pieces into the prepared flour batter and wrap them in the batter, and then fry them in a frying pan.The stuffing in the fried meat is eggs, and the eggs are wrapped with golden tiger skin, which is called tiger skin eggs.

Pingjiang’s best fried meat is called Gluten Tuo. Before the 1950s, Pingjiang’s pastry shops used small bamboo baskets to hold the fried meat or hung it on the foot of the shop floor with white cotton thread. My mouth is watering, this is gluten fried meat.This method is very unique. After the flour is mixed with water and kneaded, add water and wash it with your hands while kneading it. The more you wash, the smaller the flour lumps become.After removing the roughness and saving the essence, the lump of flour in the hand is the essence of the best gluten.Knead and wash a catty of flour to the end, and there is only one hand left to hold it.Then knead the lump of gluten powder into the size of a ball, fry it in an oil pan, and the fried meat will become a hollow lump of oil, which is called gluten lump by Pingjiang people.When making the first bowl, you should adjust the oil and salt seasoning of the fresh meat stuffing in advance, pour it into the gluten lump, and steam it, braise it in soy sauce, or boil it in soup.

The fried meat on the Pingjiang banquet should be cut into pancakes, built into a cone-shaped tower structure, piled up in an eight-inch sea bowl like a wall, steamed in a steamer for a stick of incense, and topped with soup and various Material dish covers, that is, served on the table for diners to share.Cover the top with snowflakes, that is, add sprouts and venetian shreds; cover with green mountains and rivers, that is, add minced vegetables and meat.After I tasted it, people were overwhelmed, and the taste was to the extreme.The fried meat served on the table still retains the original taste without being soaked in the soup, which is crispy, fragrant and delicious; the bottom layer is soaked in the broth, which is crispy and soft, and the flour is mixed with thick broth. When you bite down, the soup instantly erodes In the mouth, the scallions are fragrant, and the broth is fresh and tender. The combination of the two makes the taste soft and delicious, and the aftertaste is endless.

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