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Chapter 46 Fish in Hot and Sour Soup

Food and Wine 巴陵 2195Words 2018-03-18
Guizhou is located in the southwest, adjacent to Hunan, Guangxi, Yunnan, Sichuan, and Chongqing, with beautiful mountains and rivers, numerous ethnic groups, and rich resources.In ancient times, the aborigines lived for generations. Pugui, the aborigine leader in the Song Dynasty, submitted Juzhou to the imperial court, but it was far away from the famine. It was not until the Yongle period of the Ming Dynasty that the province was established. Guizhou is a raised part of the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau. It is high in the west and low in the east, and slopes to the southeast and north. It is mostly mountainous and there are many mountains.There are many ethnic minorities in Guizhou, second only to Yunnan, ranking second in the country.There are Tujia, Miao, Buyi, and Dong ethnic minorities who live in the border of Hunan and Guangxi. They are bold, unrestrained, warm and simple, and good at cooking.

Guizhou cuisine belongs to Sichuan cuisine and has its own unique flavor.It is characterized by fresh spicy, hot and sour, and highlights the three flavors of spicy, spicy and sour.Guizhou cuisine and home-brewed rice wine are full of rural flavor and local characteristics.The dishes like to be seasoned with sour soup, and the fish in sour soup is the most delicious and famous.The production method is simple, delicious, appetizing after eating, and delicious soup.Now, the sour dishes of ethnic minorities in Guizhou have gone out of the deep mountains of Miaoling Mountains and come to large and small cities. Sour soup fish has also been extended to sour soup chicken, sour soup duck, sour soup dog meat, sour soup pork feet, sour soup ribs, and sour soup beef offal. And other dishes, forming a huge series of sour soup.

Fish in sour soup is the favorite of Guizhou people, and it is the mainstay of Guizhou cuisine.Some people say: "When you come to Guizhou, you must eat fish in sour soup." After eating fish in sour soup, I also feel that it is necessary to eat fish in sour soup when eating Guizhou cuisine. soared. When making fish in sour soup, chefs will mention sour soup.Sour soup is very primitive. On the border of Hunan and Guizhou, the Miao and Dong people can make it.The original sour soup was prepared with tail wine (that is, rice distiller's grains), and later changed to rice soup fermentation and other methods to make sour soup.However, the Miao and Dong families living on the border of Hunan and Guizhou still use the most primitive rice soup to ferment to make white sour soup.

Legend has it that there lived a young girl named Ana in Miaoling, who was young and beautiful, good at singing and dancing, and good at brewing fine wine. The wine had the fragrance of orchids and was as clear as a mountain spring.All the lads came to woo, and Ana poured a bowl of good wine for all the wooers. Those who were not satisfied felt the taste was very sour after eating it, and felt cold in their hearts, but they did not want to leave. They used folk songs from the front and back to call Ana to come out to meet her, but Ana had to sing through the fence: "Sour soup, sour man, sour man, listen to my sister to warm me; betel nuts don't bear fruit in March, and bluegrass has no fragrance in September." , The mountain spring of love becomes fine wine, and the fine wine of ruthlessness becomes sour soup."

There are many kinds of Guizhou sour soup, which can be divided into high sour soup, upper sour soup, two sour soup, clear sour soup, thick sour soup, etc. according to the quality and clarity; Soup, astringent and sour soup, etc.; chicken sour soup, fish sour soup, shrimp sour soup, meat sour soup, egg sour soup, tofu sour soup, spicy fruit sour soup, vegetable sour soup, etc.; , Dong acid, aqua acid, Buyi acid, etc.Miao sour soup is the most famous, with fish sour soup, spicy fruit sour soup, vegetable sour soup, and spicy and sour soup being the most common. White sour is slowly fermented in a sour soup barrel with clear rice soup.Red sour is spicy fruit acid, with a mellow sour taste, light red color and delicate fragrance. It is made from wild tomatoes or tomatoes.Red oil sour is hot and sour. It is prepared by frying bad chili with oil until the red oil is visible, adding fresh wild chili fruit, sautéing until fragrant, adding soup and boiling to remove slag.

Guizhou people are good at making acid and like eating sour food.The folk song goes: "If you don't eat sour for three days, you can walk up and down."Among the many sour soups in Guizhou, Miaojia sour soup is the most famous. It is rich in sour and fragrant, and is a must-have for traditional Miao dishes.The Miao and Dong compatriots on the border of Hunan and Guizhou live in the mountains, where the mountains are high and the roads are far.The sour soup brewed by the Miao family and the Dong family is made from high mountain spring water and self-grown glutinous rice. It has a unique taste, sour and delicious.

Cooking fish dishes with sour soup is the favorite of the Miao and Dong people. There is a folk song of the Miao people: "The whitest and whitest thing is winter snow. The sweetest and sweetest thing is white sugar cane. The most fragrant and beautiful thing is to count Fish in sour soup.” On the border of Hunan and Guizhou, the Miao and Dong compatriots who live in villages grow glutinous rice by relying on the sky water. This kind of alpine terraces combined with ponds and fields must cherish every drop of rainwater during the planting season. In order to make rational use of the rainwater in the rice fields, the farmers raise fish and ducks among the rice fields to increase production.There are fish in sour soup in southeast Guizhou. Huangping fish in sour soup has the original taste without adding oil. Kaili sour soup is the most famous. Majiang County sour soup fish has won the Golden Tripod Award of China's famous banquet.Qiannan Buyi and Miao Autonomous Prefecture has spicy horny acid and red oleic acid, Sandu Shui Autonomous County has Xiaomo sour, and Dushan County has shrimp sour.The Dong people along the banks of the Rongjiang River and Jianhe River in southeast Guizhou have sour altars for making sour soup.The carp and crucian carp raised in the rice fields are harvested in autumn. Farmers catch fish in dry water, cook fish in sour soup, and fish in clear water to eat. The fish that cannot be eaten are used to make salted fish and saved for other seasons.In Tongdao County, Hunan Province, salted fish in sour soup has gradually evolved into a series of pickled vegetables such as pickled fish and cured meat of the Dong people. The sour and mellow flavor has become the main material of Huaihua Heating Banquet.In Langde Miao Village, Leishan County, southeast of Guizhou, when eating Miaojia sour soup fish, it is also accompanied by Miaojia toast songs, singing and eating, which is very enjoyable.There are two kinds of fish in aquarium sour soup, and their cooking methods and tastes are different.One is to take a few fish, scrape the scales and wash them, open the body to remove the viscera, chop them into lumps, put them in a cold water pot, add seasoning and old altar acid water, boil them on the fire, and call them cold water sour soup fish.One is to select a few carp from the paddy field, do not disembowel the belly, and do not take the internal impurities, but only open a small hole from the third scale on the side of the gills, take out the bitter gall, and then put it into the boiling water pot with seasoning and cook until the fish It can be eaten when the back is opened, and it is called Lianxin Suantangyu.

Traditional way to make fish in sour soup, choose fresh carp or crucian carp, clear white sour soup, sliced ​​ginger, scallion knots, refined salt, burnt chili noodles, pepper, wood ginger seed oil, sesame oil.After feeding the live fish with clean water for one day, make a horizontal cut at the third fish scale behind the gills to take out the bitter gall; cut the dried chili into pieces.Put the pot on the fire, pour in the sour soup, put the fish and dried chili into the pot, then add the Chinese prickly ash and refined salt and cook until the scales of the fish are turned over. In the pot, mix the burnt chili noodles, wood ginger seed oil, ginger slices, scallion knots, refined salt, sesame oil, and sour soup into soup and mix with fish food.The juice is thick and delicious, the meat is tender and the flavor is unique.

There are three ways to eat fish in sour soup. The first one is to dip it in. Use burnt chili noodles, refined salt, minced wood ginger flower, chopped green onion, mashed garlic, etc. as dipping sauce, and dip it in fresh fish.The fish is delicious, the soup is sour and fresh, and the dipping sauce is spicy and rich.The second is mixed food, put the fish into a vegetable bowl, remove the fishbone, mix the burnt chili noodles, refined salt, green onion, garlic, tomato, pour the fish and mix well before eating.The fish meat is delicious and tender, with a rich spicy aroma.The third type is spicy cold salad. Miaojia sour soup fish in Leishan County is also known as cold spicy spicy fish. It is boiled with cabbage, green vegetables and other fresh vegetables in sour soup, and it can be eaten after boiling.The fish is fragrant and tender, with a strong spicy taste.I have eaten all three kinds, and I think the most authentic and most suitable for Guizhou people are dipping and mixing.

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