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Chapter 30 Sichuan Butter Tea

Food and Wine 巴陵 1958Words 2018-03-18
In the streets and alleys of Chengdu, there is a kind of breakfast called butter tea that attracts me. Whenever I pass by those breakfast shops, I want to go in and drink a bowl to satisfy my greed.Sometimes, when I wandered the streets and lingered in the night market, I would hear the shouts of butter tea being sold.The butter tea sold is called Dandan Camellia by Chengdu people.In recent years, there have been fewer and fewer dandan camellia sellers, and they have gradually entered the breakfast shop to satisfy the early risers. Camellia oleifera is a kind of snack in the land of China. It is available in many ethnic groups and places. The famous ones include Tibetan butter tea, Dong nationality oil tea, Wuzhi oil tea, etc., which are mostly made of highland barley or flour.In the Gaoyi area of ​​my hometown in Hunan, Camellia oleifera is made from boiled cowpea soup with rice tofu and rice cubes.Camellia oleifera is a common drink of the Dong, Yao, Han and other nationalities. After the tea leaves are fried in oil, they are boiled in water, and the water is boiled to filter out the tea leaves.The Hui people stir-fry noodles with buckwheat noodles and glutinous rice flour with butter or mutton oil, and stir them into a paste with boiling water when eating.Fry Beijing camellia with flour until it turns yellow, and hemp seeds until it turns brown, add osmanthus and beef bone marrow oil, mix well, put the tea in a bowl, add sugar, and boil water to make a paste.Wuzhi oil tea is a well-known snack with a history of more than 260 years. It is coffee-colored, milky and thin, rich in taste, salty and sweet, and rich in nutrition.These camellias have a sweet taste and are loved by people all over the world.

In the mountainous areas bordering Hunan, Hubei, and Guizhou in eastern Sichuan, people of all ages like to drink camellia oleifera, which is an indispensable drink in their daily life.As the saying goes, "If you don't drink tea when rushing to the market, you will climb on the way home in the middle of the night; if you don't drink tea when you go downhill, your feet will be soft and your legs will shake and the road will be more slippery." Sichuan butter tea uses glutinous rice or rice as the main raw material, supplemented with crispy soybeans, kohlrabi, and pepper oil. , Red oil and other seasonings are closer to the taste of Sichuan people.

Sichuan butter tea has no oil, and it is not tea. It is white rice that is ground into fine powder and boiled with water to make a thin paste. The finished product is brown. In the 1960s and 1970s, Sichuan people used it as breakfast, and now it is a famous snack in Chengdu. In Chengbei Street, Pengshan County, Sichuan Province, there was a Wang Qinghe who was born in the late Qing Dynasty. During the Republic of China, according to the traditional practice and eating method of butter tea, he made repeated improvements and made it the number one brand of butter tea in Pengshan County. The famous "King Camellia".He makes Camellia oleifera, mainly Sanzi.

To make Sanzi from Wang Camellia, first mix the top-quality flour with water, roll out the noodles with a rolling pin, cut into strips, knead them into thin and long circles one by one, coat the surface with vegetable oil, and put them in circles In the large clay vat, they are not sticking to each other, waiting for fermentation.After the fermentation is complete, take out the noodles one by one, like rolling noodles by hand, use the left and right hands to wrap the noodles back and forth on the fingers and stretch until the size of twine, put them in a 150-degree oil pan and fry until cooked, and store them in a marijuana jar stand-by.The sanzi become brittle when cold, and will not soften after a long time. It has become the main ingredient of camellia oleifera, and even a toothless old man can bite into pieces.

Wang Camellia mixes the Camellia oleifera rice paste, puts the scorpions into a bowl, tops with the rice paste, and puts green onion, pepper, and salt.Mix well with a spoon when eating, it tastes fragrant, crisp and hot, very delicious, suitable for all ages, very delicious. There are also two places in Sichuan that are famous for butter tea. One is Langzhong, where the old residents in the neighborhood are used to going to a small shop to eat a bowl of butter tea in the morning; , Bangbang Sweet Horseshoe Cake are also known as the four famous special snacks in Bacheng. Sichuan butter tea is made from indica rice, glutinous rice, sanzi, crispy soybeans, minced kohlrabi, sesame powder, red chili oil, pepper oil, green onion, refined salt, monosodium glutamate, sesame oil, etc.First fry indica rice and glutinous rice, grind them into powder.Wash the pot and put it on the fire, add water to boil, add the rice milk, stir constantly, until it becomes a thin paste.Bring to a boil on high heat first, then boil over low heat.When the rice paste is cooked, some stick to the spoon, add a little sugar juice water, the soup color is deep yellow.When the rice paste is boiled until thick, it can be taken out of the pot and put into a bowl, add beef mutton oil or beef bone marrow oil, and prepare chopped green onion, mustard greens, fried soybeans or peanuts, and sanzi.

Butter tea should be simmered slowly. The longer the cooking time, the more mellow and viscous the taste, and the more aftertaste it tastes.If the heat is not well controlled, the butter tea will be burnt, boiled, or taste bad, with less mellow aroma.Fried soybeans and peanuts are slightly crushed for easier flavor.Sanzi are freshly fried and taste the best.Pile all kinds of ingredients on the butter tea, and split the sanzi into strips for easy entrance.Add sesame oil, pepper oil and chili oil according to personal taste, and the taste will be different.Therefore, Chengdu people divide butter tea into two flavors: salty and spicy, to meet the needs of different people.I eat butter tea in Chengdu, mainly the salty ones, I dare not try the spicy ones.

In addition to butter tea and Sanzi Douhua in Sichuan, Sanzi is rarely used alone in other snacks.Breakfast shops that sell camellia oleifera will make their own sanzi.The quality of the sanzi directly affects the customers of butter tea.The appearance of butter tea is not good-looking, but the exquisite sanzi attracts many customers and fascinates them.People in Sichuan are fond of spicy food. They put chili and Zanthoxylum bungeanum in the salty and fresh oil tea, but they enjoy talking about it and never get tired of it. The butter tea is served on the table, and the crushed sanzi are piled up into a magnificent "maoertou".I stirred the sanzi with a spoon, and all the accessories were completely incorporated into the butter tea, and the sanzi was also wrapped in rice paste.Look at the butter tea with convex and concave, multi-flavored, crisp and soft, and tempting appetite, and you can enjoy it slowly.

Butter tea tastes salty and fresh, slightly spicy, crispy and refreshing.I stir the butter tea with a spoon, the soybeans and peanuts are crispy and fragrant, and it enters the heart and spleen.Savor the chopped green onion and pickled mustard in the butter tea carefully, which adds a lot of flavor, and the appetite is greatly increased.For the Sanzi in butter tea, the rice paste is soft, and the Sanzi segments are crispy and loose.Taste the butter tea slowly, hot and delicate, with endless aftertaste.To eat butter tea, you can use a spoon to mix the ingredients with the butter tea evenly, or you can take a bite of the oil tea and add another bite of the ingredients.And my personal habit is to stir it before eating, so that the flavors are blended together, crunchy, soft, salty and sweet.You can also search for other people's faces and eating pictures, and taste food leisurely by yourself.

Butter tea combines the aroma of rice, beans, green onions, crispy and mustard mustard. In autumn and winter, it can warm the stomach and warm up the body; in spring and summer, it can feel mellow and make up for the aftertaste. The best memory of butter tea is that it is so delicate that there are no impurities, and there is no smell of butter or bone marrow. It is really a pleasure.
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