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Chapter 6 Dong village bacon

Food and Wine 巴陵 2395Words 2018-03-18
The ethnic minorities in Xiangxi, with their mystery and shocking power, have always attracted the outside world. I have traveled to Xiangxi several times and experienced the novelty of Xiangxi and the charm of ancient famous ethnic culture. I have always been excited.The most distinctive one is the Dong people, who have rich and colorful food, which will be unforgettable for a lifetime.The Dong nationality is distributed in Liping, Congjiang, Rongjiang, Tianzhu, Jinping, Sansui, Zhenyuan, Jianhe, Yuping, Guizhou, Xinhuang, Jingxian, and Tongdao in Hunan Province, Sanjiang, Longsheng, Rongshui and other counties in Guangxi. Less than three million.The Dong people live in the eastern end of the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau at the junction of Hunan, Guizhou and Guangxi, at the watershed between the Yangtze River and the Pearl River.The terrain is high in the northwest and low in the southeast, with an altitude between 500 and 1,000 meters.It belongs to the branch of Wuling Mountains and Miaoling Mountains in the north, and the main trunk and branches of Miaoling Mountains in the south. Mountains connect with hills, small rivers converge into large rivers, green mountains embrace green water, and green water surrounds green mountains. Ridges, low hills and flat dams, continuous ups and downs.

The Dong nationality is a branch of Luoyue. It was only in the Tang Dynasty that the primitive society transitioned to a feudal society.The clan or village of the Dong nationality is presided over by the elders or village elders to maintain social order, and the villages make joint funds between the villages. The small money is composed of several adjacent villages, and the big money is composed of several small money. The General Assembly is the highest authority organization, and all adult men are required to participate to discuss matters within the plan, mainly to resist foreign invasion and maintain the stability and unity of the clan.

Dong villages are surrounded by mountains and rivers. There are many ancient trees at the head of the village and the tail of the village.The Dong village takes the Drum Tower as the center and lives together according to the clan surname.The Dong people live in stilted houses, with people living upstairs and livestock and sundries downstairs.In the eyes of the Dong people, glutinous rice is the most fragrant, sweet rice wine is the most mellow, pickled vegetables are the most delicious, leaf smoke is the most refreshing, wine songs are the best, and banquets are the most joyful. These are their living standards and pursuit goals.

The Dong people in Hunan are concentrated in Huaihua, and they like to eat hot and sour food. There is a saying, "If you don't eat sour food for three days, you will walk backwards."Each household of the Dong people has five or six sour jars for vegetables, divided into sour water jars, vinegar water jars, pickled vegetable jars, pickled fish jars, and pickled meat jars.The most famous jar dish is Tongtong Dong’s cured meat, commonly known as Jierou, also known as sour meat, including pork, duck, beef, steak and so on.Half of the Dong people’s vegetables have a sour taste. It can be said that no vegetables are not pickled, and no vegetables are not sour. It is best to make them in winter. They are soaked in salt in a pot, dried slightly, and marinated in wooden barrels. The bottom layer is glutinous rice or sticky glutinous rice Make bad, add a layer of bad for each layer, then cover one layer with bamboo leaves or brown slices, then add a wooden cover, seal tightly, press tightly with big stones, and it can be eaten in a few months. The bacon is not cooked, it is sliced ​​directly Bowl, bright in color and salty in taste; it can also be fried, roasted and moxibustion, and fire moxibustion is the most fragrant.

Dong people's diet, fresh fish includes carp, grass carp, crucian carp, eel, loach, snail, shrimp, crab, mussel, which can be made into fire-roasted rice carp, grass carp soup, fresh fried crucian carp, sucking snails, sour shrimp, sour Famous dishes such as crabs.The meat products include pig, beef, chicken, and duck, and the eating method is different from that of the Han people.Melons and fruits include thorn plum, kiwi fruit, black persimmon, wild bayberry, wild pear, rattan pear, glutinous rice fruit, thorn chestnut, dawangpao, pine village nenpi, mulberry nenpi, vanilla root, etc.Game food includes rats, snakes, tadpoles, four-legged snakes, young cicadas, young locusts, bumble bee pupae, stone frogs, pangolins, fish, elk, sika deer, muntjac, rosin chicken and rosin pig.The fungus includes pine fungus, chicken silk jelly fungus, vine root, kudzu root, fine moss, and bamboo shoot.Drinks include rice wine and bitter wine.They have a wide range of ingredients, cleverly pickled and preserved for a long time.The feast of the Dong family, bowls of sour fish, a full feast of sour fish in the Dong village composed of ten dishes, is rare in the world. I was lucky enough to eat it once and left a good memory.

The Dong people have four meals a day, two meals and two teas. The Dong people generally like to eat chili and sour taste. The rice is the main meal. They eat japonica rice in Pingba and glutinous rice in mountainous areas.Glutinous rice has red glutinous, black glutinous, white glutinous, bald shell glutinous, dry land glutinous, and fragrant grass glutinous.Rice includes white rice, flower rice, light porridge, flower porridge, rice dumplings, glutinous rice cakes and so on.When eating, knead the rice into balls with your hands and eat it. It is called eating Tuanfan. The Tuanfan is delicious, and the family steams the rice, and the whole village is fragrant.People in the Dong village prepare meals for the day in the morning and take them up the mountain to eat.The Dong people drink camellia oleifera exclusively, and mix tea leaves, rice crackers, fried peanuts, crispy soybeans, glutinous rice, meat, pig offal, salt, green onion, tea oil, etc.The Dong people also drink bitter tea. When cooking, they first turn the polished round-grained rice into brown-black color and put it in a bowl.Mix it with water and boil it. When the japonica rice has swelled, add green vegetables, radish, and sweet potato and cook until cooked.Its taste is hearty and bitter, it can adjust the stomach and relieve diarrhea.

Dong people like to play Dongba for entertaining guests. The craftsmanship is complicated and meticulous, and there are many varieties, such as red Dongba with perilla juice, black Dongba with poplar leaves, bean paste with stuffing, and jujube paste.The Dong people are very particular about glutinous rice cakes. There are two kinds of glutinous glutinous rice cakes, alkaline water glutinous rice cakes and white glutinous glutinous rice cakes. They are a must-have for holidays and visiting relatives and friends. They are also daily food, and they are brought to the slopes for breakfast and lunch.Before making white glutinous rice cakes, first wash the glutinous rice, soak it for one to two days, take it out and drain it, steam it in a steamer, then scoop it out and put it in a cake trough or a stone mortar and pound it with a wooden mallet. Put beeswax or boiled vegetable oil on it, squeeze it into a fist-sized circle, put it on a wooden board and flatten it.After the glutinous rice cakes are dry, put them in a water tank for storage.The Dong family builds buildings and houses, and the mansion is completed. When they step on the treasure beams, they put the glutinous rice cakes in bamboo baskets. The carpenter master lifts them to the top beams and pillars with embroidered straps, and throws them to the crowd in all directions. Ba, you get rich as well.

The Dong people use rice wine to relieve fatigue and entertain guests. They use wine as a gift and enjoyment in various festivals, forming the habit of not being a gift without wine. Every family brews and roasts rice wine by themselves.When a distinguished guest came, the host persuaded the guest to have a drink, and they broke up happily.When entering the village, there is roadblock wine. Girls set up barricades beside the gatehouse to block guests. They drink and sing to each other. You sing and answer. The lyrics are humorous and funny, which makes people laugh.After taking a seat, exchange wine and exchange glasses, neighbors come to accompany the guests, or invite the guests to your own home, or gather together to have a feast together in the Drum Tower, regardless of each other.There are programs such as chicken heads offered to guests, camellia oleifera hospitality, sauerkraut bitter wine hospitality, eating Healing rice, drinking Zhuanzhuan wine and so on.

There are two kinds of sour food of the Dong nationality, made in jars and buckets. The jars include sour soup, shrimp and crab sauce, and spicy food. They are placed next to the fire pit with rice washing water. After a few days, it becomes a sour soup.The sour soup is rich in oryzanol, boiled fish, shrimp and vegetables, the color and taste are excellent.To make shrimp paste, first stir and crush the shrimp and dried chili, then add flour, soybean powder, minced ginger, cinnamon, salt, etc., and stir evenly.When eating, fry it with oil, or boil it with soup, and its taste is more fragrant.The production of sour and spicy dishes is similar to that of the Han people.Barrel-made sour foods include kippers and cured meats.To marinate fish, take out the viscera of fresh live fish, sprinkle with salt, mix glutinous rice and chili powder with water to make a grain, put the grain into the belly of the fish, and place it in a bucket. One layer of fish, covered with plantain leaves or tung tree leaves, with grass rings on the side, sealed and pressed with round stones, filled with clear water on the barrel to cover the surface, so as to isolate it from the air, it can be taken out for use after one year.The longer the fish is marinated, the better the taste.Cured meat is first cut into thin slices, and the production process is similar to that of kippers.There are many varieties of cured meat, mainly cured pork and beef.Fragrant and sour fish is a pickled home-cooked dish that Dong people love to eat, and it is a treasure in Dong family cuisine.Pickled fish does not deteriorate for ten years, the fish meat is rosy, sour, salty and delicious, and the aroma is striking. The barrel pickled sour fish can last for three to five years, and some even ten or twenty years.

I stayed in several Dong villages in Tongtong for more than half a month, tasted all the Dong delicacies, and felt a lot.
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