Chapter 27 Lu Xun's Eating·"Wandering"

In Lu Xun's writing, there is more rural atmosphere in Shaoxing; in writing, there is more intellectual atmosphere in the city; but the opening chapter "Blessing" has a bit of pastoral style. "Blessings" are mainly sacrifices, killing chickens, geese, and buying pork.In fact, the ancestors have passed away. Firstly, they may not be able to eat them, and secondly, they may not like to eat them—the gods in the sky love to eat golden elixir flat peaches, and the immortals of Gushe Mountain love to eat wind and drink dew. If you make a pile of high-fat and high-protein, the ancestors may not be able to digest it.Of course, the sacrifices in our country are mainly for the living to see, so treat the belly of the dead with the heart of the living, so let's eat it like this.I asked a friend in Zhejiang, and he said that in the old age, when blessings are made, five animals are boiled to pray, and then rice cakes are boiled with the five animals to eat, so as to "scatter blessings".I guess the five animals are boiled for nothing, and the taste is not much better.It may not be worth it if you specially add seasonings to your ancestors.

My mother is superstitious, and occasionally worships gods and Buddhas when the time comes.The general dishes are quite simple and fixed: soybean sprouts, spinach louver, braised pork belly, meat stuffed with gluten, braised fish, which have remained unchanged for decades. Both gods and Buddhas and feeding people are very good.In fact, the delicious things in the world have never changed. Regardless of the vicissitudes of life, white rice + soybean sprouts + braised pork are the most simple things.After my mother sacrificed, she refused to waste it, and often brought it to the gods for me to eat.When I was naughty when I was young, I teased her that I would not eat the leftovers eaten by gods and Buddhas, which made my mother's face sink like water.

Brother Xun felt guilty after seeing Mrs. Xianglin, and wanted to eat stewed shark fin.Shark's fin is a well-known borrowed dish, and it depends on a good soup.I have seen stewed shark's fin once in Ningbo. I don't care about the shark's fin in the cup. Let's look at the soup, chicken, ham, and a few seasoning plants that have been stewed. Mrs. Xianglin washed the rice and put it in the pot, planning to steam the edamame.Steaming things while cooking is very common in Jiangnan, including steamed meat and fish.After the rice is cooked and the vegetables are steamed, there will be a rich aroma.Both steamed edamame and boiled edamame are refreshing ways to eat. Some people pay attention to adding some oil to add aroma, but most of them are steamed. The edamame is steamed, crisp and glutinous, and has its own coolness of edamame itself. very good.

"Happy Life" is a super satirical article, trying to create a perfect scene. A friend of mine who is a fashion editor lamented that many low-level editors are now repeating a similar life-eating steamed buns and cold water, chatting Bird's nest with shark fin.Let's say that if the hero in "Happy Life" wants to eat, he wants to eat "Dragon and Tiger", but he doesn't know whether "Dragon and Tiger" is snake+cat or frog+eel.Of course, I have also heard of the combination of civet + snake.When I was in Guangzhou, I didn’t see a lot of eating cats. It was probably a private kitchen or a black market business.Stewed civet cat has seen some signs.At that time, the rumors of SARS had just passed, and it was said that it had subsided, otherwise it would be bragging in the streets and alleys about how to burn civet cats with secret methods.Snakes are a common food for Cantonese.When I was a child, I always wondered, what is so delicious about snakes, why are they so popular?Later, I discussed with others that in the past, there were not many farmlands in Guangdong, and there were many animals and few grains, so I caught snakes when I saw them and ate them, which can be considered as a protein supplement, and it is said that it can also cure diseases. Cantonese people speak eloquently about similar formulas.Guangdong has snake porridge, snake hot pot, and snake soup, but the snakes in the snake soup are like silk, which tastes similar to chicken shreds.Something mysterious like a ritual makes people unhappy.Lu Yaodong once listed the order of Jiang Taishi's authentic "Taishi Snake Soup".Perhaps the formal order of Zhongming Dingshi House is not suitable for the spleen and stomach.

The "dragon-tiger fight" in fantasy and the pile of cabbage in reality are just in contrast.It is said that when the food supply was underdeveloped, Beijingers tried their best to hoard cabbage for the winter. Vegetables were scarce, and cucumbers with "holes" were all grabbed.Cabbage and radish are treasures of common people.It has a clear and clean appearance, and it tastes light, crisp and refreshing. It is delicious in any way, and its personality is easy to prepare. The simplest thing is to use it in a pot, dip it in garlic sesame oil or sesame sauce, and it can also relieve the greasy taste of lamb.What the scholar-officials like is Zhang Dai's side dish for the crab feast. The so-called "cabbage in duck sauce" uses cabbage to borrow the mellowness of duck juice.The higher level is the fetish of Sichuan cuisine - boiled cabbage: the chicken soup has a clear taste and is divided into two parts. One part of the soup is hard to pour the cabbage into the flavor, and then the second part of the chicken soup is served with the cabbage. suspect.If you can't finish eating cabbage in winter, you can also make mustard pies.I ate it once in Beijing. The taste was so strong that I was caught off guard, but it was wonderful when served with rice.

It is a portrayal of the real life of literary young men and literary young women. In the end, Zijun finally died exhausted, leaving Juansheng "salt, dried chili, flour, and half a cabbage".No matter how unrestrained love is, after all, it has to be daily necessities.What interests me is the word "dried chili".I have been to Guizhou, Central Sichuan, and Jiangxi, and I have seen people who love dried chili as a treasure.In central Sichuan and Guizhou, peppers are well-dried and can be given as gifts. Long-distance bus stations often carry peppers and bacon on their backs, but it is rare in Zhejiang and Jiangnan.Of course, Lu Xun is famous all over the world for his love of spicy food, so he probably substituted it here.

When Wei Lianshu was quite lonely, Brother Xun bought soju, peanuts and two smoked fish heads to visit him.In some places in the south of the Yangtze River, smoked fish heads are actually closer to deep-frying: the fish heads are first marinated with wine and soy sauce, and then deep-fried in hot oil.After the fish is smoked, it is crispy and fragrant, and even the fishbone can be eaten.The heat of frying is higher, which can be compared with crispy eel.But the authentic smoked doesn’t seem to be the case. Southwestern smoked bacon and smoked duck are also marinated first, and then roasted with slow fire and smoke.The old Beijing smoked duck is very particular about charcoal wood, hoping to have a fruity aroma after smoking.

The fish head is the same as the rabbit head and pig's knuckle. The bone is thin and the meat is thin. It does not satisfy the hunger but is easy to taste. The meat is delicate and easy to drink.Fish head soup is a favorite of Jiangnan people.Those who love fish head can talk about it like a few treasures, such as the tender meat of the neck, the crispy fish brain, and the soft fish eyes, each of which has its own uniqueness.When I was young, I loved to eat fish skin from the gills. It is tender and white, like Chang'e's wide sleeves, stretching gracefully. "On the Restaurant" is considered by some to be "the most full of Lu Xun's atmosphere" in a novel.I personally think that the ending "Seeing that it is already dusk, and the houses and streets are woven in a pure white and uncertain net of dense snow" has a gentle air.Lu Weifu's self-reported tone has the style of "superfluous people", which is very desolate against the cold atmosphere around him.The only warmer dishes in the full text are these few dishes: first, "one catty of Shaojiu", then "ten pieces of fried tofu, with more chili sauce", and "fennel beans, frozen meat, fried tofu, dried herring".

Fried tofu is tofu that has been deep-fried and boiled.After deep-fried tofu is crispy on the outside and tender on the inside, and the inside will feel soft and hollow like silk.Because it is hollow, it is good for soup and stuffed meat, and it is tasty.The eating method in the novel is boiled and then added with hot sauce. Lu Xun loves spicy food, which is obvious. Moreover, his taste is quite strong, and he lamented that the hot sauce is weak. "Originally, people in S City don't know how to eat spicy food." The fennel beans have already been said, not shown.Dried herring is also available in Jiangsu. Generally, during the Chinese New Year, the unit sends a big fish, and takes the mouthwatering "more than every year".The herring was cut open, a few holes were pierced, and salted, and the head and tail of the fish were chopped and stewed.I heard that some people with good craftsmanship can marinate herring with fermented glutinous rice (called fermented glutinous rice in Sichuan), soy sauce, etc. before eating, which is called "dried herring".In the novel, it is probably ordinary dried herring, but it is also called dried salted fish in our place. It can be eaten empty to accompany wine, or it can be eaten steamed.

After the dishes were served, the novel said that "the smoke and the heat of fried tofu were added upstairs, and it seemed to be lively; the snow outside the building also fell more and more."That means, except for boiled tofu with chili sauce, other dishes are probably cold dishes.Originally, the style of the novel is cold, but if you serve a large bowl of rock sugar knuckles, braised crucian carp, and sweet and sour pork ribs, the tone of "the white land is so clean" will be destroyed immediately.Rice wine, boiled tofu, and some Shaoxing marinated cold appetizers are similar to the cold beef in Linchong Fengxue Mountain Temple. You can still feel the chill, but it is more or less white, and you can feel a little bit of warmth in the world.

Originally, the diet in winter was like this.Eating spicy hot pot until you are sweating profusely, forgetting about Jinxi and Hexi, after all, there is too little, too little.Most of the time, we are just like "On the Restaurant", sipping hot tea and hot wine alone, eating and drinking a little bit of warmth for the old and the poor, that's about it.