Chapter 26 Lu Xun's Eating · "Scream"

When I was a child, the teacher taught classes and put labels according to the syllabus.Picking up Mr. Lu Xun's novels, I always come up with some bloody verbs such as "criticize, criticize", and criticize Liang Shiqiu Yashe and Zhou Zuoren bitter tea.But when it comes to, although it is also "the ABCDEFG that criticizes the feudal society", but the clothes and food can be read one by one.In fact, books are innocent, but readers have hearts.Mr. Lu Xun's novels, no matter how subtle they are, are novels after all, and they describe the market in a joyful way.Just treating his novels as political textbooks dug out his thoughts, but wronged his talents.Similar to blindly treating it as an obscene book, it is also reckless.

The husband has a good impression of European realist novels, and his description of nature is extremely fine.There are many rural scenes in Zhejiang, which are very realistic.The whole story makes people feel panic when watching Munch. The most frightening sentence is about steamed fish: "The eyes of the fish are white and hard, and their mouths are open, just like the group of people who want to eat people. After eating a few chopsticks, It’s so slippery that I don’t know if it’s a fish or a human.” After I read this sentence for the first time when I was a child, I was horrified when I saw steamed fish for a few months.Looking later, I found:

"It turns out that Zhejiang people also love to eat steamed fish!" A friend from Guangdong concluded to me that the fish that is eligible to be steamed is a good fish.In the picture, the hero is the one who is eligible to be punished.Steamed fish can reflect the dignity of its quality, although they must be very uncomfortable.Some steamed fish eaten in Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Guangdong have different orders.For example, in Guangdong, it seems that steamed and then served with shredded green onion and soy sauce are more; in Jiangsu and Zhejiang, salt, ginger, cooking wine, sesame oil are more salted and then steamed.Probably Guangdong focuses on fresh and original flavors, while Jiangsu and Zhejiang prefer seasoning.

To deal with fish, whether it is marinated first and then steamed or steamed and then seasoned, it is all delicate work.Many of the soy sauce, shredded green onion and fermented soybeans used to accompany steamed fish in Guangdong are home-made, with a delicate taste that has been repeated over and over again.Here in Jiangsu and Zhejiang, the application of salt, ginger and cooking wine also depends on the thickness of the fish head itself, which takes a lot of thought.The well-marinated salted fish can be served with rice after steaming, and can also be served with dried vegetables and other things.For example, in the Republic of China, many of Tan’s dishes were from Guangdong, and Tang Lusun praised the steamed white fish among them very well.But many of the Cantonese-style steamed fish I eat are only seasoned with fermented soy bean in order to preserve their original flavor.On the contrary, I have eaten steamed white fish made in Zhejiang once in Shanghai. It is steamed with Huadiao wine. The meat is thick and fragrant, and it is very touching.

Fang Xuanchuo in "Dragon Boat Festival" is a "Mr. Almost", and his temperament is closer to the intellectuals in the movie.Although he is a scholar who is useless, he is quite naughty and rascal, and even asks his servants to pay Lianhuabai on credit when he has no money.There are many theories about the time of Lianhuabai's creation, including Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties.One method I have heard is as simple as soaking white wine with lotus stamens.Tang Lusun said that during the Republic of China, the lotus white in Beijing was invented by Baozhupo. Drinking lotus white in autumn, eating smoked wild goose wings and listening to the autumn rain is a wonderful place in life. Then probably the lotus white in the Republic of China was fresh and pleasant, right?The lotus white sold in Beijing is said to have a lot of ingredients, and the smell is not very fresh, so I haven't tried it too much.

In "Hometown", there are famous Runtu and melon fields, as well as tofu Xishi.Runtu gave Brother Xun the green beans he had dried at home.Jiangsu also sun-dried green beans, which are usually placed in a large plaque and dried in the soil. After drying, they are served with shredded bamboo shoots, which can be eaten as snacks or porridge.Green beans are not as crispy as dried soybeans, but they are tough to chew, making them a convenient and durable snack.The gift from Runtu is in line with the rural norms in the past: it is not expensive, but it can be eaten and stored, and it is indeed useful.

Brother Xun's mother knew that Runtu hadn't eaten lunch, so she asked him to cook rice in the kitchen.I doubt that the fried rice here is fried rice.When I was a child, I was used to eating fried rice with eggs—although my mother’s skills are ordinary, it’s just ordinary broken gold rice, which can’t be “gold wrapped with silver”, but there are eggs after all.One year when I went to the countryside, I was left for lunch, and the neighbors brought me a bowl of oil-fried rice and a bowl of soy sauce and green onion soup.Simple in the countryside, oil fried rice is fried rice with oil and salt to get a little oily aroma and taste, so that you won't be chewing dry rice.There seems to be a similar style in the Jiangnan countryside: Fried rice is better than white rice, and bad tea is better than plain water. You have to be careful, otherwise you will be rude to the guests.

It contains rice wine, salt-boiled bamboo shoots and the famous fennel beans.Yellow rice wine is indispensable in the books of Zhejiang-born writers, and Yu Huali's "Warm and Warm Yellow Wine" is well known.Salt-boiled bamboo shoots are probably boiled bamboo shoots in salt water. They are fresh and crisp, and are a good thing to go with wine.But some friends told me that the salted bamboo shoots are flat tips, which is doubtful, because I remember that the flat tips are closer to pickled bamboo shoots, and they are used for cooking soup, fried meat, etc., far more than wine.Zhejiang people like to eat salted, bad, and moldy things. I ate salted bamboo shoots once in Ningbo, and they tasted slightly sour. Maybe its meaning is similar to sour bamboo shoots?Fennel bean became famous all over the world with Kong Yiji, and it is made by processing broad beans with cinnamon bark, salt and fennel.Crispy, glutinous and firm, with a fresh and eternal taste, this famous snack, together with Jin Shengtan's "Peanut and Dried Tofu", is a secret treasure for scholars to drink with, so I won't mention it much.

When Lihua Laoshuan made the famous steamed buns, it was mistaken for fried rice porridge.Wang Zengqi said that fried rice is a very ready-made food, and when guests come, they bring it out and make it fresh.Occasionally, sugar is added to the fried rice in Wuxi, and it is sweet and fragrant after being fried until it is burnt.The taste of fried rice porridge is very strange, some are tough, some are crunchy and some are sandy, but it is definitely fragrant.I heard that there are pregnant women in the country who like to eat sweet food, so they add brown sugar to cook fried rice porridge, which is very fragrant.

Hua Laoshuan served tea, and an olive was added to the tea bowl.This is not like Wang Po serving Ximen Qing to order tea.In the past, people in the north drank some tea, and various dried fruits were often added to the tea.Olive tea is also called Yuanbao tea in my hometown. The elderly like to drink it. It can be used to relieve alcohol and treat sore throat.My grandma used to make a big cup and let me drink it after it was cool in summer. It really removes the heat, which is better than ordinary cold water.But grandma thinks that it should not be used to rinse mouth, otherwise it would be "spit out all the ingots".

Ah Q is a god-man in the history of Chinese novels, exquisite and embossed, lively and fragrant, it can be used as a living book of Belinsky's "typical view".The details of his life are typical everywhere, and he is a model of boring villagers in Zhejiang during the Republic of China. Ah Q drank rice wine, and when he finished he boasted that he and Mr. Zhao belonged to the same family, and got slapped in the face.Originally, rice wine is not as strong as baijiu. I have seen people who drink rice wine are seldom drunk.So Ah Q doesn't get drunk very often, it's just that he gets high easily. Fry big head fish in oil, add half-inch green onion leaves in Weizhuang, and finely sliced ​​green onion in Chengcheng.Ah Q took Weizhuang as the standard and the city as the fault.It is said that we don’t fry much here, but there are quite a few people who use the heads of big-headed fish to make their own ideas.Big head fish and silver carp are wonderful things to make fish head soup or fish head with pickled peppers.Fried fish with scallions is a common cooking in my hometown, seasoned with scallions, and all of them are put with scallion leaves.Fried red with chopped green onion leaves, it is really colorful.Moreover, Jiangnan braised fish is often sweet, with green onion leaves, the taste should be more sassy, ​​not sticky.Shredded green onion is a test of skill. Except for the skilled old aunts here in Jiangnan, they rarely use it for home-cooked fish frying, but they use it more for steaming fish. Because of his passion, Ah Q was tired by beauties, and he accidentally confessed his love to Wu Ma. He was like a mouse crossing the street in Weichuang, so hungry that he wanted to change, and went to the nunnery to steal food.I didn’t steal the bamboo shoots because they were undercooked; the rapeseed is bearing seeds, the shepherd’s purse is about to bloom, and the cabbage is getting old—all of them are too bad to eat.In the end, he stole three old turnips and was almost bitten by a dog. Compared with bamboo shoots, rapeseed, shepherd's purse, and cabbage, radish has the advantage that it can be eaten raw.The old Beijing classic is "radish and pear, spicy change", cool and crisp.Grandma Zhao Lirong had a sketch at the Spring Festival Gala that year, and she featured a dish called "A Gathering of Heroes", which, to put it bluntly, was a meeting with radish.Gong Hanlin also composed and sang at that time: "Eat it in the mouth, it is especially crispy." People in the south of the Yangtze River also eat new radishes. Of course, some people only love the spicy taste of raw radish.A friend of mine in Japan said that some Japanese prefer spicy food over sweet food, and that raw radishes are not spicy enough and not flavorful enough.Everyone has their own aspirations, and they cannot be forced. Of course, Ah Q is still very pitiful, because he picked an "old carrot".Fu radish, at least in Jiangnan, emphasizes sweet, crisp and juicy.Gu Long said back then: "No matter how bad the tea is, as long as it is hot, you can drink it." Just like a girl, no matter what she looks like, as long as she is young, she will not be too annoying.Carrots are not beautiful women, so the advantage of youth is very important. The proverb "Eating radish and heating tea makes doctors run all over the street with anger" is well known, but if it is herbal tea with wilted radish, it would be boring.Once the radish is soft, the taste is discounted.Every time the white radish slices are served with hot-boiled mutton, someone always reminds them that "the radish can't be boiled for a long time, it won't taste good if it's soft".Old radishes have no juice and are not crispy, and usually have a strong spicy taste, so they won't be too tasty. It would be fine if they were simply made into dried radishes. Unfortunately, Ah Q didn't even bother to cook the bamboo shoots, and most of the radishes were eaten raw. The main scene in the movie is eating, so eating is indispensable.First, the women brought out "black steamed vegetables" and "pine flower yellow rice", which had a strong sense of picture.Dried vegetables, plum dried vegetables are also known all over the world.Dried plum vegetables are the master of pickling and drying technology in my country. They are dried and soaked in water with Sichuan pickles.Fortunately, dried plum vegetables still have a crispy and crispy taste after steaming, and they have a mellow taste. Steamed with braised pork, borrowed the fat and glycerin paste of pork belly, sweet, crispy, fragrant, and ecstasy.There are a lot of people who make braised pork in China. Roasted pork, pork with sand, and steamed pork with taro all have their own uniqueness.Even if you don’t cook braised pork, it’s delicious and sweet when served with rice alone. Spread on the soft and glutinous rice, the color and texture have a very gorgeous contrast, which is very attractive.Here, the old lady will use a large plaque to dry dried plums and vegetables, and then make a huge pot of dried plums and vegetables to eat.It is the skill of the older generation of aunts to send dried vegetables to the countryside and to the cities. Similar to drying sauce in the Northeast and making pickles in the Southwest, it is the wonderful wisdom of the working people. As for the pine flower yellow of rice, I know there are probably two reasons.One is that the rice is not eaten immediately after it is cooked, and it seems to turn yellow after being suffocated at high temperature for a long time; the other is cooking with brown rice.Here, I suspect the latter.Brown rice is now more expensive than polished rice, and it is a good thing in line with green food.In fact, this time is also the other time. People who are now looking for brown rice everywhere in pursuit of nutrition will only be treated as nothing in the era of insufficient material.Extremes lead to opposites, too much brown rice and polished rice is not good.Brown rice has a coarser texture, firm and tough chewing, and is okay to eat once in a while, but when used with dried plums, it lacks the gorgeous contrast of white and black.Teacher Wang Zengqi said that in the rice shop in the past, no one bought polished rice.It's not that everyone can't afford polished rice, but they are used to eating brown rice and feel that eating polished rice is a bit "sinful". The old lady Jiujin sighed that "one generation is not as good as one generation", and complained that eating fried beans would eat up the poor family.Liu Jin hid a handful of beans and ate them alone.The soybeans eaten by Zhejiang people are not as dense as those in the north, so I suspect that most of the so-called stir-fried beans are the green beans that Runtu gave Brother Xun.Stir-fried green beans with salt, tough and crisp, like melon seeds, once you eat it, you can't finish it.But sometimes it will be harder, and the elderly will hate it.Therefore, the nine-pound old lady would complain that the beans were hard, but the six-pound girl enjoyed it: In the era when there were no five-spice sunflower seeds, fried beans that were easy to make and easy to chew were indeed a way to pass the time for girls. The must-have snack for addiction. Although it is short, there is no less than an abbreviated version of "Surfing the River During the Qingming Festival" to summarize the features of Zhejiang's folk diet.Dried plums, brown rice, and fried beans, if you add rice wine from Xianheng Hotel, fennel beans, and boiled bamboo shoots with salt, seven or eight out of ten of the benefits will be involved.Of course, the most hidden thing is a rather vivid detail of people's livelihood: The old lady Jiujin's family ate at the soil yard in front of their house, so Zhao Qiye came over to chat with people all the way.In the countryside of Jiangsu, this was the usual practice in the past.There is a row of wooden-structured houses. In front of the door, people set up low tables and small stools to eat, and they all know each other well. While eating, they can chat loudly across three or five families.When the men were full, they burped and burped while drinking the poor but strong tea in large enamel cups, while the women coaxed the children to eat (because the children liked to run around while eating) while clearing the table.If it is summer, the meal will be postponed directly to enjoying the shade, so some people come out to eat with cattail fans.There are those who are eloquent and good at making people laugh, slipping over with rice all the way, chatting and eating, some people here say a few words to get some fish, and others say a few words to bring a piece of meat, and they can eat hundreds of dishes along the way.The villagers in the old age are very gentle, and there is no barrier when eating. Neighbors give each other fish, preserved eggs, sugar, and fermented rice. "Shexi" is considered to be Mr. Lu Xun's freshest novel.Let’s talk about fishing for shrimps. In the villages of Jiangsu and Zhejiang, it’s generally easy to cook shrimps. Put ginger in the water to boil the shrimps. Take the fresh and sweet taste of river shrimps. If it’s too bland, add soy sauce. The most famous and dreamy one is the boiled luohan bean returned from the social drama.Arhat beans were "firm" and already appetizing; Brother Xun took the lead in peeling the beans, and cooked them with salt and firewood from the Eighth Grandpa's boat.Arhat beans are also broad beans.Broad beans boiled in salt water are not as long-lasting and crunchy as fennel beans, but freshly peeled broad beans have the fragrance of beans, and the taste is tender and crisp, which is very delicious.What's more, the atmosphere at that time was really good: on the river in the clear night, young friends mooring a boat, eating boiled broad beans when hungry under the moonlight, suddenly felt poetic.Finally, pour the bean pods and shells into the river, and return under the moon. You see, simply treating Mr. Lu Xun as a "thinker, writer, revolutionist, and ×× family" inevitably ignores the husband's tenderness.None of the descriptions I have seen of Jiangsu and Zhejiang’s water villages are warmer and more innocent than this social drama Eating Douban on a Moonlit Night.