Chapter 52 Chapter 49 Food and Clothing

"Book of Rites · Li Yun" said: "The ancient kings did not have palaces, they lived in camps in winter, and in summer they lived in wooden nests. Without cremation, they ate plants and trees, the flesh of birds and beasts, drank their blood, and shaved their fur. There is no hemp silk, and the feather skin is used for clothing. The later sages made works, and then repaired the benefits of fire. Made gold, combined with soil, to think of terraces, palaces, and households. With guns, burnt, prospered, and roasted, it was thought Li cheese. Treat the hemp silk and think it is cloth." This is the ancient people's summary of the evolution of food, clothing and housing. (1) Although there is no correct history in ancient times, it should be within the reach of memory. (2) The ancients are the most important.There are many ceremonies, although after evolution, there are new and applicable things, the old and inapplicable things must still be preserved as a memorial.If there is wine, it is also necessary to save the clear water (see below) when there is no wine, which is one example.The spread of such ceremonies also makes it easy for people to remember the events of previous generations.Therefore, the passage of "Li Yun" is useful to explain the evolution of clothing, food and housing in ancient times.

According to this passage, the ancients ate two kinds of food: (1) the fruits of plants and trees, (2) the meat of birds and animals, and (3) an important fish was omitted.The ancients used fish and turtles as their regular food. "Book of Rites King System" said: "The monarch does not kill cattle for no reason, the doctor does not kill sheep for no reason, and the scholar does not kill dogs and hogs for no reason." It also said: "Sixty is not full of meat." "Mencius" said: "Chicken, dolphin Animals such as dogs, pigs, and pigs can be eaten at the right time, and those in their seventies can eat meat." ("Liang Huiwang Part 1") Animal meat is the food of the noble and the elderly.He also said: "If you don't get into the pond, you won't be able to eat fish and turtles", and "if you don't violate the farming season, you won't be able to eat grains". "The Book of Songs No Sheep": "The shepherd is a dream, and the fish are all the fish. The adults occupy it, but the fish are all the fish, and they are the harvest." Zheng's "Jian" said: "The fish are the reason why the common people raise them. Today The relationship between people and fishing is the auspiciousness of year-old acquaintances." "Gongyang" In the sixth year of Xuangong, Jin Ling sent a warrior to kill Zhao Dun.Peeping into its household, only to eat fish and food.The warrior said: "Hey! You are a sincere and benevolent man. You are a heavy minister of the state of Jin, and eating fish and food is your frugality." Even fish is a sign of the people's food.These habits must also be left over from the Longgu era.We can say that the ancients had three main foodstuffs: (1) In colder or mountainous places, they were engaged in hunting, eating the meat of birds and animals, drinking their blood, dressing their fur, and wearing their feathers. (2) In places where the climate is hot and the plants are lush, it eats the fruits of plants and trees.The raw materials of clothing, hemp and silk, must have been invented in this kind of place. (3) Fish are eaten near rivers and lakes.

Although there are these three kinds of food in ancient times, the most important one is probably the second one.Because there are many types of plants, it is easy to grow. "Mozi Ci Guo Pian" said: "The ancient people were vegetarians and separated." Sun Yirang's "Xian Gu" said: "Vegetarian food means eating plants and trees. Su, a false word for sparse. Shu, vulgar for vegetables." According to The word "gushushi" has two meanings: (1) it refers to grains, and (2) it refers to plants other than grains. "Book of Rites Miscellaneous Notes": "Confucius said: I eat less Shi Shi and I am full, and less Shi Shi eats me as a courtesy. I sacrifice, and I say: sparse food is not enough to sacrifice. I eat, and I say: Sparse food is not enough to hurt my son." "Sparse" says: "Sparse and coarse food should not be full, so as to hurt." This is the former meaning.The so-called sparse food is the latter meaning, because one is grain and the other is not grain, and the prefix of grass was added later to distinguish it. "Book of Rites · Moon Order": In the midwinter moon, "there are mountains, forests and marshes, there are those who can get vegetables and eat, hunt animals in the fields, and wild Yu teaches them. If there are those who invade each other, the crime will not be pardoned." "Zhou Guan" Dazai has nine positions, and the eighth is called ministers and concubines, who gather and sparse talents. "Guanzi Seven Ministers and Seven Masters" says: "Fruit and vegetarian food should be ten stones", and "Eight Views" says: "If there are less than ten thousand families, then there are mountains and rivers."It can be seen that vegetable food was an important food material in ancient times, and it could support a large number of people in the Spring and Autumn Period and Warring States Period.As for animals, their numbers are relatively small.Drinking blood and bare hair is now only used to describe barbarians, but it was actually a fact in ancient times. "Yishu" quotes "Su Wu ate snow and wool", which is its confirmation.In the Longgu period, Su Wu's situation on the North Sea was by no means difficult for ordinary people to encounter. "Book of Songs Bin Feng": "Build a field garden in September." Zheng's "Jian" said: "Plowing and governing is to grow vegetables." It is said that vegetables are Ru." Vegetables are the so-called vegetables today, and they are the second meaning in the previous interpretation of sparse food.The vegetables of the later generations are also selected and grown, and it is not laborious to eat.In ancient times, sparse food was the wild vegetables obtained at will from the mountains and forests. They are rough and hard to chew, and they are probably not much different from the hair of birds and beasts.These facts force people to walk on a road of producing food artificially.There are only two methods of artificial production of food, animal husbandry and farming.Animal husbandry must have a suitable environment, and China does not have a vast grassland (the ancient Yellow River basin was flat and there were many swamps), so the only way to go is planting.

Although the situation of the ancients in the era of sparse food was difficult, it brought great benefits to future generations.Because I eat a lot, I know the properties of various plants.The oldest medicine book in our country is called. "Huainanzi Xiuwu Xun" said: "Shen Nong tastes the taste of hundreds of herbs, the sweetness and bitterness of water springs, and encounters seventy poisons in one day." The surname Yandi was a man. "Book of Rites Yueling" says "wait without issuing an order, so as to hinder the affairs of Shennong", which is exactly the meaning. "Mencius Teng Wengong Part 1" "Xu Xing who speaks for Shennong", the meaning is the same. , is a book on the nature and taste of vegetation derived from farmers, and it is definitely not the achievement of one person.This book is the foundation of Chinese pharmacology for thousands of years.Its invention is all due to the fact that people in ancient times ate many kinds of plants.If people in the later generations eat according to the eating method and specialize in a few kinds of grains, vegetables, and fruits, even ten thousand years will not produce any "Materia Medica".

On the one hand, we discover the properties of various plants because of the miscellaneous things we eat; on the other hand, we eliminate those that are not suitable for food from among various plants, and cultivate those that are suitable for food.The first step is to take out grains from various plants as the staple food.The second step is to eliminate the rough ones from the grains and keep the fine ones.So the ancients talked about a hundred grains, then nine grains, and then five grains.Up to now, we think that the most suitable staple foods are only rice and wheat. "Mozi Ci Guo Pian" said: "The work of a sage teaches men to cultivate and cultivate trees, and thinks that the people eat it. It is also food, enough to increase Qi and fill the void, and strengthen the body to fit the abdomen." "Lu Shi Chunqiu Review "Shi Pian" said: "The harvest at the right time, its smelly fragrance, its sweet taste, and its aura. A hundred solar eclipse, the ears and eyes are clever, the mind is wise, and the four guards become stronger ("Note": 'Four guards, the four limbs also. ') The air does not enter, and the body is not harsh. The Yellow Emperor said: "The four seasons are not right, but the five grains are just right." Looking at this, you will know how important the invention and progress of agriculture are to the nutrition and health of the people. .

Among the animals raised by the ancients, horses, cows, sheep, chickens, dogs, and hogs were the most common animals.Horses and cattle are used for transportation and farming, so they are not very used as food.Sheep husbandry requires vast grasslands, which are relatively expensive.Chickens, dogs, and hogs are easier to raise, so they are considered regular food.It was not long before the ancients went fishing and hunting, and many men kept dogs. "Guanzi Mountain Quanshu" said: "If the year is severely drought, the water is flooded, and the people lose their capital, they will build palaces and terraces. Those who have no dogs before and no pigs in the future are mediocre." It can be seen that the raising of dogs is as common as pigs.Probably in ancient times, dogs were kept by men, while pigs were kept by women.The character of family is from 宀 to pig, and later generations find it difficult to explain the life of the ancients if they don't know it.If you know the living conditions in ancient times, why is it so difficult to explain?Pigs have no self-defense ability. If they are wandering outside, they will be devoured by wild animals, so they have to build houses for them to live in.This kind of house is exclusive to women.So by extension, it became the name of the woman's residence. "Rituals · Township Drinking Ceremony" records: "Its animal dog", "Book of Rites · Hunyi": "Uncle and aunt enter the house, and the woman feeds it with special dolphin".It can be seen that the dog is the meat provided by the man, and the pig is the meat provided by the woman.Later, meat could be sold and bought, and men began to butcher dogs as a profession.Cattle and horses need to be used for transportation and cultivation, and sheep do not have large pastures for grazing. This situation in later generations is still the same as in ancient times. However, because dogs are far away from the hunting era, there are fewer people raising them, and pigs have become common food. beast.

The advancement of cooking methods is also an important phenomenon in food evolution.Its root is due to the invention of using fire.The success of pottery making is also very related. "Li Yun" says: "At the beginning of the husband's ceremony, there are all kinds of food and drink. He burnt the millet and cooked the dolphin, polluted the respect and drank it, and the earthen drum with the scorpion, as if it can pay respect to ghosts and gods." "Note" says: "In the middle ages, there was no cauldron, rice, meat, and ears that were eaten on top of burnt stones. It is still the same in Beidi today." This is what people call "stone cooking".The following "Note" says: "Pao, wrap and burn it. Burnt, put it on the fire. Heng, cook it in a wok. Sunburn, stick it on the fire." Among them, only cooking is the method after the invention of pottery.According to sociologists, the invention of pottery is actually due to the fact that when cooking food, it is afraid that it will be scorched, so it is covered with soil.After the invention of pottery, water can be added to food when it is cooked.With a texture, it melts more easily.The seasoning can also be cooked at the same time when it is cooked.The method of cooking is even easier.Cooking methods not only make (1) taste better, but also (2) kill germs, and (3) make food easy to digest, which is closely related to hygiene.

The luxury of food and beverages also comes gradually. "Salt and Iron Discussion: Scattered Insufficiency": Xianliang said: "The ancients burnt the millet and ate the barnyard barnyard, and the porpoise served with each other (Ye immediately smacked the word). Later, the villagers drank wine, the elderly heavy beans, and the young ate it immediately. One piece of meat, just for traveling and drinking. Afterwards, when guests and guests called each other, there was bean soup and white rice, and cooked meat. Nowadays, folk wine and food, mixed with travelers overlap, and burnt and roasted. Drinking wine, sacrificing meat, offering sacrifices without wine and meat. Today's Luxiang County Bo, Qianmo Tugu, cooks and kills for no reason, gathers in the wild, goes away with millet, and returns with meat. The ancients did not porridge (used as cooking, cooked food), not porridge. Market food. And after that, there were butchers, wines, dried meats, and fish salt. Today, cooked food is listed everywhere, and it is mixed into a market.” It can be seen that the diet of the Han Dynasty people was more luxurious than that of ancient times.However, "Lunheng·Jian Ri Pian)" said: "In the domestic massacres, the number of six livestock dead is thousands of heads per day." I am afraid that it is only worth the current Shanghai city. "Sui Shu·Geographical Records" says: People in Liangzhou and Hanzhong are "addicted to food and drink, and they are busy with fishing. Although they are rich in chaimen, they must also eat meat."Their standard of living is beyond the reach of the Han people.From all of this, we can see that the standard of living in society has gradually increased invisibly.However, the degree of its unevenness also increases accordingly. "Book of Rites King System" said: "Three years of plowing, there must be one year's food, and nine years of plowing, there must be three years of food. After thirty years, even if there is a fierce drought and floods, the people have no food, and then the emperor will eat. , Daily exercise, for joy." "Yuzao" said: "As for the August does not rain, the king does not lift." "Qu Li" said: "The year is fierce, the year is not smooth, the king does not sacrifice the lungs for food, and the horse does not eat grain Doctors don’t eat Liang, and scholars don’t drink alcohol.” These are the legacy of sharing weal and woe in the era of public property.However, during the Warring States Period, Mencius reprimanded King Hui of Liang for saying, "There are fat meat in the kitchen, fat horses in the stables, hungry people in the people, and hungry horses in the wild."If we try to look at the cooker in "Zhou Guan" and "Nei Ze" in "Book of Rites", we can see how extravagant the diet of the rulers and scholar-bureaucrats at that time was. "The wine and meat of the Zhumen stinks, the road is frozen to death, the prosperity and decline are so different, and the melancholy is hard to describe." The poet who was not waiting for the prosperous Tang Dynasty felt this emotion.

"Warring States · Wei Policy" said: "In the past, the emperor and daughter ordered Yidi to make wine and it was beautiful, and Yu entered it. Yu drank it and made it sweet. Then Shu Yidi, the decree of wine, said: In future generations, there will be wine to destroy their country. Those." Based on this, the ancients took Yidi as the maker of wine.However, Yidi only makes wine beautiful, not inventing wine making.The ancients said that something began with someone, probably so.You can know it by reading "Shiben Zuopian".Wine is brewed from grains ("Yi Li Dowry" Note: "In all wine, rice is the best, millet is the second, and millet is the second.") Its invention must be after the rise of agriculture. "Li Yun" said: "Dirty respect and drinking." Zheng's "Notes" said: "Dirty respect, digging the ground is also respect. Squeeze to drink, and hold it with your hands." This is obviously drinking water. "Ritual Li Shu" quoted this, saying that there was no wine at that time, and what he said was good. "Li Yun" and "Shu" say that the ground is dug to hold wine, I'm afraid it is not inevitable. "Ming Tang Wei" said: "Xia Hou's family valued clear water, Yin people valued wine, and Zhou people valued wine." All the sacrifices are current things, things from the previous period.According to this, the invention of wine making was still before the Xiahou clan.The taste of Li is more mellow than that of wine, but Yin people valued Li, and Zhou people valued wine; "Zhou Guan" has five wines, three wines, and four drinks. Five Qi sacrifices, three wine drinks; it can be seen that the taste of wine is getting stronger day by day.Reading "Book of Books", "Jiu Gao", "Bin Zhi Chu Yan" and other articles, we can see that the ancient people's wine ethics were quite bad.Today's Chinese do not have the habit of drinking too much, which is much better than Europeans and Americans.

According to ancient books, the ancients had a lot of alcohol. "Historical Records Funny Biographies" records Chunyu Kun's saying: "I am drunk with a bucket, and I am also drunk with a stone. Of course, it is an allegorical speech, but "Kao Gong Ji" says: "Eat a piece of bean meat and drink a piece of bean wine. "Five Classics of Different Meanings" contains "Han Poetry" and said: The ancient wine vessel: "One liter is called jue, two liters is called goblet, three liters is called goblet, four liters is called jiao, and five liters is called powder." "Rituals" said: "One liter for a noble, three liters for a gu, if you offer a jue and pay for a gu, if you offer one and pay three, then you have one bean." One bean is one bucket.That is, according to "Han Poetry", it can also get seven liters.The ancient method of drinking is one-fifth of today's, and ordinary people do not have this amount of alcohol.According to "Zhou Guan", people drink six times to cool down.Zheng Sinong said: "Water and wine are also used." This must have happened in ancient times, otherwise, it cannot be speculated.I suspect that in the ancient reward ceremony, wine was drunk with water, so the amount of alcohol varies from person to person, and the wine vessels used for the reward are exactly the same.

Tea is the one that stimulates the taste inferior to wine.The original character of tea is tea. "Erya·Shimu": "槚, bitter tea." "Note" says: "The tree is as small as a gardenia, with leaves in winter, which can be boiled for soup. Today, those who are picked early are tea, and those who are picked late are tea. , a name of 荈. The name of Shu people is bitter tea." According to the name of tea, it is called bitter vegetable.The taste of tea is slightly bitter.It is not easy for us to create a new language.When there is a new thing to be named, it is often used to take the old thing and its similarity, slightly change its sound, and think of it as a new name.This is often the case when monophonic languages ​​prevail.And the method of creating characters is to take old characters and increase or decrease their strokes to think new characters.Such as Jiao Lu, Dao Diao, and the current Ping Pong are all examples.Therefore, the language and characters of tea will be born from the characters of tea (the language changes from fish rhyme to hemp rhyme, and the characters minus one painting).Tea is produced in Sichuan and popular in Jiangnan. "Three Kingdoms Wu Zhi · Wei Yao Biography" said: When Sun Hao forced his officials to drink, Chang Mi gave tea as wine.It is said that Wang Meng likes to drink tea.When the guests arrive, try to pay them.The scholar-bureaucrats wanted to attain Meng, and they often said: "Today there is a flood."That is the evidence. "Book of Tang Lu Yu Biography" said: "Yu is addicted to tea. He wrote three scriptures, especially the method and equipment of the source of tea. The world knows how to drink tea. After that, tea became popular, and Huihe entered the dynasty, and began to drive Mashi tea." The popularity of tea throughout the country, and its infusion to foreign countries, began in the Tang Dynasty.So after the middle of the Tang Dynasty, there was a tea tax.However, according to the "History of Jin": The Jin people had to buy all the tea they needed from the Song Dynasty, thinking that it was a waste of money for the country and capitalized on the enemy.In the fourth year of Zhang Zong's Cheng'an, he set up a workshop and built it himself, and it was five years until Taihe.Next year, there will be more than seven grades of official food teas.According to this, we know that tea at that time was not as common as it is today.As it is now, almost no one in the whole country refuses to drink. How can such a ban be established?The blueprint in Pinghua is relatively old.Although the current version has been modified by Jin Shengtan, it still retains the old features of the Song and Yuan Dynasties.In the book, drinking tea is not often seen. When one is thirsty, one just finds wine to drink.This is also evidence that tea was not as popular as it is today in the Song and Yuan Dynasties.Citing Tang Qiwu's "Preface to Tea Drinking" said: "Release stagnation and eliminate stagnation, the benefits of one day are temporarily good, and the barrenness invades the essence, and the life-long harm is serious." Song Huang Tingjian's "Tea Fu" said: "In the cold, the barrenness, don't drink it. Even better than tea." In the Tang and Song Dynasties, tea also had medicinal properties, and its irritating properties seemed to be far stronger than today's tea.The tea of ​​the ancients was decocted and drunk, which is more troublesome than today's soaked in water.From this point of view, although the name of tea is the same in ancient and modern times, it is actually very different.This should be due to the different methods of making tea, which can reduce its harmful properties and become a common drink.This is also one end of diet evolution. Next to tea is tobacco.Its object comes from Luzon.It is named Yan, also known as Tamba wild rice (see "Materia Medica"). It was first cultivated by Putian people.Wang Gongzhen's "Warm Temple Suoyu" says: "Tobacco leaves come out of central Fujian, and the people on the border suffer from cold and disease, and they will die otherwise. Outside the pass, one horse can be used to change one tendon. In Chongzhen, it was ordered to ban it. Private planters asked to be sentenced to prison. The law is more important than the law, and the ban on the people is as before. An order was issued: all offenders will be executed. But soon, because of the cold and cold in the army, the ban was relaxed. Yuer didn’t know what smoke was. Eat tobacco." (According to "Xing Yu Cong Kao" quoted) According to this, when tobacco first came out, its prohibition was almost as strict as that of opium now.Tobacco can cure cold diseases, and it is said that it is a deficiency of the child, which is very clear today.Fever in the army is just an excuse to relax the ban.When I was young, I saw a certain book, which explained that some farmers in the north of the end had passed out in the fields due to smoking Survivors are still in the guerrilla zone, there is no way to check).Today, regardless of dry tobacco, hookah, or cigarettes, the nature of them cannot be so strong.The method of making tobacco, like tea, has been greatly improved.However, smoking opium is caused by this, and the damage is still very severe so far. The name of poppy first appeared in "Kaibao Materia Medica" in the early Song Dynasty.In the "Zhizhi Fang" written by Yang Shiying at the end of the Song Dynasty, it was said that its shell can cure dysentery.According to Ming Wangxi's "Yi Lin Ji Yao", it was found that the fluid was scraped out with a bamboo knife, and it was dried in the shade inside the porcelain.Every time you take a small bean, it is hollowed out and dissolved in warm water, and it is used for medicinal purposes.Yu Zhengxie's "Gui Si Lei Manuscript" says: "Eight volumes of foreign texts in the Tongwen Hall of the Fourth Translation Hall of the Ming Dynasty, some of which were translated from the Siamese country, and among them were the words about two hundred catties of opium for the emperor and one hundred catties of opium for the queen." Dian "97, 98, tributes from various countries, Siam, Java, and Bangkala, all have black incense, that is, opium." This is indeed a tribute in Ming Dynasty.Therefore, Emperor Shenzong, who had not looked at the court for a long time, suspected that he was trapped by this thing.However, there is no evidence for his statement.Today's use of it as a hobby is actually caused by tobacco.Qing Huang Yupu's "Taihai Shichalu" said: "Opium smoke is cut into shreds with Ma Ge and Yashi, and fried in a copper pan to make opium and smoke. Use bamboo sticks, and use brown silk, and gather them together. Just count them. It is twice as much as ordinary smoke." "Yongzheng Zhu Zhu's Edict": In seven years, Liu Shiming, the governor of Fujian, played against Li Guozhi, the prefect of Zhangzhou, and got thirty-four catties of opium from Chen Da, a businessman who smuggled opium, and planned to use it as a military crime.The minister proposes a personal message.Chen Da confessed that opium was originally a medicinal material, and it is not the same thing as the opium smoke that harms people.When passed on to the pharmacist for approval.He said that this is a medicinal material, which is necessary for treating dysentery and cannot harm people.But when tobacco is added to boil together, it becomes opium smoke.Li Guozhi falsely used opium as opium smoke, which is very absurd, and should be used as a crime of crime, with reference to this topic.Opium at that time was not yet independent from tobacco.Later, for some reason, smoking alone was ten or a hundred times more harmful than tobacco. Chinese food is imported a lot from foreign countries.Among them, the most important one is naturally to push sucrose. Its legal system was obtained from Mojait when Emperor Taizong of the Tang Dynasty, see "Tang Shu Biography of the Western Regions".Previously, the glutinous rice was made of rice and wheat.In Daxu's "Shuowen", the new appended characters began to have sugar characters.The characters are still from rice, and the interpretation is not as good as sugarcane, which shows that sucrose was not yet popular in the early Song Dynasty.At the end of the Northern Song Dynasty, Wang Zhuo wrote "Sugar Frosting Spectrum", and began to prepare details of its origin and production method.Up to now, sucrose is far more popular than caramel.In addition, many vegetables such as alfalfa and fruits such as watermelons are imported from foreign countries.It's too late to prepare for the exam. Chinese cooking methods are second to none in the world.Kang Youwei's "Travel Notes of Eleven European Countries" is the most detailed.But the beauty of seasoning and the good nutrition are two different things, so you must know it.In terms of the proportion of various expenses in the overall consumption, the Chinese are extravagant in food and drink.Kang Youwei's "Material Salvation of the Nation" said: "The ethos of the people is that extravagant living is the highest, followed by extravagant clothing, and extravagant food is the lowest."This is something our people have to reflect on. The evolution of clothes should be divided into two aspects: one is materials, and the other is tailoring methods. "Li Yun" said "If there is no hemp silk, the clothes are like feather skins".This is just one kind of clothing material of the ancients.Another kind is grass. "Book of Rites · Suburb Special Animals" said: "Yellow clothes and yellow crowns are sacrificed, and the husbands of the fields are resting. Field husbands have yellow crowns. Yellow crowns, grass clothes. Da Luoshi, the emperor's palm bird and beast, and the princes belong to Yan. The straw hats come, and the wild clothes are also respected.": "People from other cities, Taiwan hats and hats." "Mao Zhuan": "Taiwan is used to protect against heat, and hats are used to protect against rain." "Zheng Jian": "Taiwan, husband must Also. The people of the capital use the platform as a hat." "Zuo Zhuan" in the fourteenth year of Duke Xiang, Rong Ziju, a member of the Jin Dynasty, said: "It is the ancestor who left me, and was covered by thatch." "Note": "Gai, an alias of thatch "Shu" said: "There is no cloth or silk to wear, but only grass." "Mozi Ci Guo" said: "When the ancient people didn't know it was clothes, the clothes were handed over." Sun Yirang's "Xian Gu" said: "Bringing watermelon is suspected to be the twisted belt in "Mourning Clothes", which is also the so-called belt rope in "Shangxian Chapter." Part 1: "Shun regards abandoning the world as if he had abandoned his poor home." "Note" says: "Yi, grass shoes." "屝, Cao Xi." It can be seen that the clothes, crowns and shoes of the ancients were all made of grass.Probably the ancient fishermen and hunters used leather as clothing material.Therefore, Zheng "Jian" in "The Book of Songs Caishu" said: "The ancients fished in the fields and ate them because of their skins. The prophets concealed the front, and the latter concealed the rear." (See below) The armor of later generations still uses leather. made.The one worn on the head has a leather belt, the one worn on the body has a leather belt, and the one worn on the foot has a leather sash (Xiage scorpion, Dongskin scorpion, see "Rituals·Scholar Crown Ceremony" and "Scholar's Funeral Ritual" Take silk as it, see "Dialect").Farming people use grass as the material for their clothes.So "Jiao Special Sacrifice" said that yellow clothes and yellow crowns are wild clothes. "Yugong": Yi Hui clothes from Yangzhou Island, and Yi skin clothes from Jizhou Island (the island is regarded as a bird, and "Shu" says that the pseudo-Kong reads the bird as the island).Observing the life of the savages, we can know the situation of our race before evolution. The use of hemp silk is naturally a great invention.The use of silk originated from Leizu, the concubine of the Yellow Emperor and Yuan Dynasty.There is no way to test when the invention of hemp began.After knowing the use of hemp silk, the invention of weaving method is also a great progress. "Huainanzi Si Lun Xun" said: "Bo Yu made clothes at the beginning, hemp ropes, hands hanging on fingers, and its completion is like a snare. Later generations will take advantage of it to get it back, and the people can hide themselves. To keep out the cold." Hanging the sutras on the fingers is by no means universal.The invention of the weaving method has really benefited endlessly.But when it started is also unknown.After the invention of silk and hemp, the use of fur and grass gradually decreased.The main purpose of the hide is only armor.As for fur, its meaning is not only for heating, but also for beauty.Therefore, the fur of the ancients always put the fur on the outside, which is the same as the reverse of the current people ("New Preface Miscellaneous Things": "Yu people turn the fur and pay the salary, and he knows how to cherish the fur, but he doesn't know that the fur is gone and the hair is gone. Fu.") There is a piece of clothing on the outside, which is called a cloak.When saluting, sometimes you untie the coat to reveal the fur inside, and sometimes you don’t untie it to cover it up.This change is used to show beauty (it is disrespectful to call it "Biaoqiu" without a coat. On top of the coat, it is also necessary to add Zen clothes, which is called a coat).The poor wear woolen fabrics, which are called brown.Brown is for keeping warm.Now the livestock and hunting businesses are in decline, and silk and cotton are cheaper than fur goods.Not so in ancient times.Fur is more common, and silk cotton is more expensive.At twenty, you can wear clothes and silk ("Book of Rites, Nei Ze"), and at fifty, you can wear silk and not warm ("Book of Rites, King's System").The common people also get the fur of dogs and sheep, which is the proof.The new and good silk cotton is called silk, and the old one is called fluff.See "Shuowen". At present, the most widely used clothing material is kapok.Its widespread throughout the country is very late.This object, which is called Jibei in "Nanshi Linyi Biography", was mistaken for woody. "New Book of Tang" is known as a herbal medicine only after it is ancient. "Southern History" Yao Cha's disciples gave one end of Nanbu; Bai Juyi's "Buqiu Poem": "Guibu is as white as snow", both refer to cotton cloth.But only limited to the cross and wide areas.Xie Fang of the Song Dynasty got "Xie Liuchun's Father's Poem for Benefiting Kapok": "Kapok planted in Jiashu, how thick is the sky in Fujian?" It was then extended to Fujian. "Yuan History·Shizu Benji": In the twenty-sixth year of the Yuan Dynasty, Zhejiang, Jiangxi, Huguang, and Fujian kapok lifting divisions were established, and they were extended to the Yangtze River Basin.The reason why it can be popularized seems to have a lot to do with the weaving method. "Song History Cui Yuzhi Biography": Qiongzhou uses Jibei to weave the quilt, and the work is done by women.Tao Zongyi's "Stop Farming Records" said: Songjiang's soil fields are barren, and there is no food for them, so they look for kapok to grow in Fujian and Guangxi.At the beginning, there was no system of treadmill vertebral arch.Its work is very difficult.There was Huang Daopo who came from Yazhou to teach weaving, and people benefited greatly from it.Not long after, the Taoist woman died, and a shrine was set up to worship her.Kapok has existed for a long time in the south of Lingnan, but it was not implemented in the north until the Song and Yuan Dynasties. Because there is no weaving method, its products cannot be used, and there is no profit at all.Therefore, the two industries of agriculture and industry depend on each other and promote each other (this section is based on "Xin Yu Cong Kao"). The method of tailoring clothes: the earliest ones, and then the so-called fu.Also for.Later, this thing was worn outside the clothes and thought it was beautiful.But in the early days, it should be relatives.In addition, the whole body has nothing.Therefore, "The Book of Songs Zheng Jian" said: "The ancients fished in the fields and ate them because of their skins. The prophets covered the front and the back knew the back." The origin of clothes used to be thought that the most important reason was to keep out the cold, followed by covering body.actually not.The ancients lived in caves in winter and did not use clothes as a tool to keep out the cold.As for nudity, savages are by no means ashamed, and there are many sociological evidences.The origin of clothes usually precedes the lower body, followed by the upper body; more often the foresight conceals the front, and the latter conceals the rear. This is the greatest evidence for those who argue that the origin of clothes is due to being ashamed of being naked.According to the research of current sociologists, it is not because of being ashamed of being naked, but turning to decoration to seduce each other.Because nudity is common to all, adornment is not, and it is more irritating to adorn than to leave it alone.But to cover the front is a scorpion, and to cover the back is a garment.The short ones are called hakamas, and the long ones are called hakamas. Therefore, "Shuowen" calls the hakamas shin clothes. The ancients said that there are no hakamas for poverty, but there are still some hakamas, and they are not naked.Also, the hakama and crotch of the ancients were not stitched, and the stitched ones are called poor hakamas, which are special.See "Han Shu Biography of Foreign Relatives".It can be seen that both the kun and the hakama have evolved from the skirt, with the skirt first, and the kun and hakama after.The first three and the last four of the clothes are all tailored.There are countless pleats in auspicious clothes, and three pleats in mourning clothes ("Rituals·Mourning Clothes" Zheng "Note").The so-called clothing worn on the upper body.Among them: the short one is called Ru.Those that are long are called robes, and those without them are called shirts.Ancient robes and shirts cannot be formal dresses, and short clothes and skirts must be added over them.Worn on the head, the most respected is the crown.Make the bones of wood, paste the outside with cloth, the top is black, and the bottom is vermilion.When worn on the head, the front is lower.There is a door in front. It is said that colorful ropes are threaded through pieces of jade and hang down in front.The number, the emperor is twelve, and the other nine, seven, etc., are reduced by the number.On both sides there are braids, which are made of yellow cotton, which are as big as pills, hung on the top of the crown, hanging down, just as big as two ears.Later, Huang Mian was replaced by jade, which was called Zhen.The crown should be a decoration left over from the barbaric era.So its shape, in our eyes, is very strange, but the ancients thought it was the most respected garment.The one next to the crown is the bean, which is made of skin.Its shape is also like a crown.But there are no scorpions and scorpions, and the front and back are flat when worn.That's why the crown was made.Its shape is the same as the mourning crown worn by dutiful sons in old-style funeral ceremonies.There is a beam in the middle, two inches wide.Also use cloth to surround the hairline, from front to back, which is called Wu.The usual crown is connected with Wu.Otherwise, separate it and put it together temporarily.Two groups are used to connect them to the arms, lead them to the bottom of the arms, and combine them to form tassels.If there is more, hang it down as a decoration, which is called Sui.Hairpins are not used for the crown, but hairpins are used for the Mianbian.The hairpin is a woman's hairpin. When the ancients re-exposed their hair, they must first cover up the "black", knot it, and then fix it with a crown.The crown uses tassels, and the Mianbian knots a group on the right hairpin, hangs down, passes through the tail, then wraps it up, and knots it on the left hairpin.The crown is the clothing of adults, and it is also the clothing of nobles, so if you are guilty, you should be exempt from the crown.As for today's cap removal, it comes from the degeneration of the helmet.The helmet is a warrior's hat, for fear of being injured, it droops so deeply that it almost covers the face and cannot be seen.Therefore, in order for people to know themselves, the helmet must be removed. According to Zuo Zhuan, in the 16th year of Duke Ai, Duke Bai of the state of Chu rebelled, and the people of the country only hoped that Duke Ye would come to rescue him.Ye Gong walked to the north gate, "If you meet him, you will say: "Your husband is not a man? The people of the country look up to the king, as if they look at their loving parents. If the arrow of a thief hurts the king, it will lose the people's hope. If so, why don't you be a man? It's a man. Go in. I met another person who said: "Jun Huzhou? The people of the country look at the king like they look at the year. How many times a day, if they see the face of the king, they will get wormwood. The people know that they are immortal, and their husbands have a heart. It is like a flag Is it not too much for the king to show favoritism to the country, but to hide his face in order to lose the popularity of the people? It is to enter without the helmet." The role of the helmet can be seen.Taking off your hat now is the etiquette of Europeans.Europeans fought fiercely in the Middle Ages.Avoiding helmets makes people know themselves, and shaking hands means that there are no weapons.Later, they followed each other, which was an ordinary gift for meeting each other.It is actually meaningless for the Chinese to imitate it.Some people take off their hats and write without their hats, which is even more inconsistent with the facts.In ancient times, the common people did not wear crowns, but only used scarves.If it is used to cover a bun, it is called a headband. "Book of the Later Han Guo Tai Chuan" "Note" quoted Zhou Qian's "Yufu Miscellaneous Things" and said: "The towel is made of Ge, and its shape is like, and it is worn by laymen and savages." "Yufu Zhi": "Hat, the clothes of the ancient savages." The towel and the hat are very similar.Wearing on the feet is called socks.At the beginning, it was also made of leather.Therefore, its character is from Wei Zuowei.Out of the socks is 屦.The ancients must take off their hats when they ascend to the hall.If you take it off, those who trample on the ground will become socks. If you stand for a long time, it will be dirty and wet, so you will have to untie your socks when you sit.See "Zuo Zhuan" Ai Gong twenty-five years.There is no literature on whether or not to untie socks in later generations, but the ceremony of taking off the socks has been around for a long time.Therefore, it is regarded as a kind of special ceremony to walk on the sword. "Book of Tang": Di Wangyan has two concubines competing for favor.Ask the shaman to put the talisman in Yanlu.Or tell Yan that he is disgusted with charm, and the emperor waits on his court, so that people can take his performance to test it, and it is true.Then when the Tang Dynasty entered the dynasty, he no longer took off his shoes.However, Liu Zhiji interpreted that all wear hats and ride horses, and he said that hats and shoes can only be matched with carts. Today, socks are replaced by stirrups, and saddles are replaced by saddles, which is really different from ancient times.Then you still have to take off your shoes for sacrifices.Probably the abolishment of the ceremony of wearing a suit, (1) due to the gradual walking of the boots, and (2) due to sitting on the ground, it gradually became a high sitting. See the following text and the next chapter for self-explanation.The ancients also had the leggings of today, which are called forcing, also called evil, and also called walking.It was originally used on the road, but it was also used as a decoration.Song Mianchu's "Shifu" said, "Untie the socks and you will see the force. "Poetry" says: "The evil side is down, it is the time when the swallows drink and feel happy", and the force is in the socks.Said: "The villagers today often walk without socks, which is the legacy of the ancients. Wu He Shao Meizhi always wears socks and hopes to see his feet. In the Han and Wei Dynasties, there are still many people who do not have socks but see their feet." It is also said that Congyi, the word for socks, first appeared here, and gradually became today's socks.It is suspected that the socks were originally the clothes of the people who hunted in the field, and the people who farmed were originally bare feet in ancient times.Chinese culture originally originated from the south, so it is necessary to wear clothes when saluting. Although the purpose of clothing at first was not to cover the body, but later on, when wearing clothes became a habit, it was necessary to cover up all parts of the body, thinking it respectful.Therefore, the "Shen Yi Pian" in "Book of Rites" says: "Short clothes do not see the skin." Short clothes are convenient for doing things, and this is the case in ancient and modern times.In ancient times, the young and the lowly were the ones who did more hard labor. "Book of Rites · Qu Li" says: "Boys don't wear fur clothes." "Nei Ze" says: "For ten years, clothes are not silk, hakama." It means short clothes and hakama means no clothes. "Zuo Zhuan" in the 25th year of Zhao Gong, the teacher narrated the nursery rhyme, saying "鹆跦跦, the Duke is in the marquis of Qian, and he is in charge of the song".褰 is Hakama ("Shuowen").This is the proof that the laborers do not wear clothes.However, in ancient times, undergarments and hakamas could not be regarded as formal attire, and must be worn outside.In this case, it is convenient to wear a long gown over the undergarment according to the appearance of people today.However, the ancients were accustomed to clothes and gowns, and they must also add clothes.Therefore, from the ancient clothes to the current gowns, dark clothes must be used as a transition.The meaning of deep clothes is similar to the clothes that women wear today.In form, it is the upper garment and the lower garment, but in fact they are stitched together.The clothes are divided into twelve panels, six at the front and six at the front.There are four folios in the middle.Two diagonal cuts on the side form two triangles.The tip is on top.Therefore, the ratio of the lower end to the upper end (waist) of the garment is three to two.In this way, there is no need to make achievements, and it is easy to act.The deep clothes are made of white cloth, but are bordered with silk, which is called pure.What is impure is called ragged, especially frugal (it is commonly known as blue strands today, and its meaning is broken, which is the same meaning).Scholars and above don't have court sacrificial clothes, but ordinary people wear dark clothes as auspicious clothes.The same applies to minors.所以戴德《丧服·变除》说：“童子当室（为父后），其服深衣不裳。”然自天子至于士，平居亦都是着一件深衣的。这正和现在的劳动者平时着短衣，行礼时着袍衫，士大夫阶级，平时着袍衫，行礼时别有礼服一样。然古人苟非极隆重的典礼，亦都可以着深衣去参与的。所以说“可以为文，可以为武，可以摈相，可以治军旅”（《礼记·深衣》）。民国以来，将平时所着的袍和马褂，定为常礼服。既省另制礼服之费，又省动辄更换之烦，实在是很合理的。 《仪礼·士丧礼》疏，谓上下通直，不别衣裳者曰“通裁”，此为深衣改为长袍之始。然古人用之殊不广。后汉以后，始以袍为朝服。《续汉书·舆服志》说：若冠通天冠，则其服为深衣服。有袍，随五时色。刘昭《注》云：“今下至贱吏、小史，皆通制袍、禅衣、皂缘领袖为朝服。”《新唐书·车服志》：中书令马周上议：“礼无服衫之文。三代之制有深衣，请加襕袖褾襈，为士人上服。开胯者名曰缺胯，庶人服之。”据此，则深衣与袍衫之别，在于有缘无缘。其缺胯，就是现在的袍衫了。任大椿《深衣释例》说：“古以殊衣裳者为礼服，不殊衣裳者为燕服。后世自冕服外，以不殊衣裳者为礼服，以殊衣裳者为燕服。”此即所谓裙襦。妇人以深衣之制为礼服，不殊衣裳。然古乐府《陌上桑》云：“湘绮为下裳，紫绮为上襦”，则襦与裳亦各别。然仍没有不着裳的。隋唐以来，乃有所谓袴褶。（《急就篇》注云：“褶，其形若袍，短身广袖。”）天子亲征及中外戒严时，百官服之，实为戎服。 曾三异《同话录》云：“近岁衣制，有一种长不过腰，两袖仅掩肘，名曰貉袖。起于御马院圉人。短前后襟者，坐鞍上不妨脱著，以其便于控驭也。”此即今之马褂。《陔余丛考》说：就是古代的半臂。《三国魏志·杨阜传》说：明帝著帽，披绫半袖，则其由来已久。《玉篇》说：裆，其一当胸，其一当背。《宋书·薛安都传》载他着绛衲两当衫，驰入贼阵。《隋书·舆服志》：诸将军侍从之服，有紫衫金玳瑁装裆甲，紫衫金装裆甲，绛衫银装裆甲。《宋史·舆服志》，范质议《开元礼》：武官陪立大仗，加螣蛇裆甲，《陔余丛考》说：就是今演剧时将帅所被金银甲。按现在我们所着，长不过腰，而无两袖的，北方谓之坎肩，南方有若干地方，谓之马甲。大概系因将帅服之之故。宋人谓之背子。见《石林燕语》。 衣服不论在什么时代，总是大同小异的。强人人之所好，皆出于同，自然决无此理。何况各地方的气候，各种人的生活，还各有不同呢？但衣服既和社交有关，社会亦自有一种压力。少数的人，总要改从多数的。昔人所谓“十履而一跣，则跣者耻；十跣而一履，则履者耻”。其间别无他种理由可言。《礼记·王制》：“关执禁以讥，禁异服，察异言。”其意乃在盘诘形迹可疑的人，并不在于划一服饰。《周官》大司徒，以本俗六安万民，六曰同衣服，意亦在于禁奢，非强欲使服饰齐一。服饰本有一种社会压力，不会大相悬殊的。至于小小的异同，则无论何时，皆不能免。《礼记·儒行》：“鲁哀公问于孔子曰：夫子之服，其儒服与？孔子对曰：丘少居鲁，衣逢掖之衣。长居宋，冠章甫之冠。丘闻之也，君子之学也博，其服也乡。丘不知儒服。”观此数语，衣服因地方、阶级，小有异同，显然可见。降逮后世，叔孙通因高祖不喜儒者，改着短衣楚制（见《史记》本传）。《盐铁论》载桑弘羊之言，亦深讥文学之儒服（见《相刺篇》、《刺议篇》），可见其情形还是一样的。因为社会压力，不能施于异地方和异阶级的人。然及交通进步，各阶级的交往渐多，其压力，也就随之而增大了。所以到现代，全世界的服饰，且几有合同而化之观。日本变法以后，几于举国改着西装。中国当戊戌变法时，康有为亦有改服饰之议。因政变未成。后来自刻《戊戌奏稿》，深悔其议之孟浪，而自幸其未果行。在所著《欧洲十一国游记》中，尤极称中国服饰之美。其意是（一）中国的气候，备寒、温、热三带，所以其材料和制裁的方法，能适应多种气候，合于卫生。（二）丝织品的美观，为五洲所无。（三）脱穿容易。（四）贵族平民，服饰有异，为中西之所同。中国从前，平民是衣白色的。欧洲则衣黑色。革命时，欧人疾等级之不平，乃强迫全国上下，都着黑色。中国则不然。等级渐即平夷，采章遂遍及于氓庶。质而言之：西洋是强贵族服平民之服，中国则许平民服贵族之服。所以其美观与否，大相悬殊。这一点，西人亦有意见相同的。民国元年，议论服制时，曾有西人作论载诸报端，说西方的服饰，千篇一律，并无趣味，劝中国人不必摹仿。我以为合古今中外而观之，衣服不过南北两派。南派材料轻柔，裁制宽博。北派材料紧密，裁制狭窄。这两派的衣服，本应听其并行；且折衷于二者之间，去其极端之性的。欧洲衣服，本亦有南北两派。后来改革之时，偏重北派太甚了。中国则颇能折二者之中，保存南派的色彩较多。以中西的服饰相较，大体上，自以中国的服饰为较适宜。现在的崇尚西装，不过一时的风气罢了。 中国的衣服，大体上可谓自行进化的。其仿自外国的，只有靴。《广韵》八戈引《释名》，说“靴本胡服，赵武灵王所服”。《北史》载慕容永被擒，居长安，夫妻卖靴以自活。北齐亡后，妃嫔入周的亦然。可见南北朝时，汉人能制靴者尚少，其不甚用靴可知。然唐中叶以后，朝会亦渐渐的着靴，朱文公《家礼》，并有襕衫带靴之制了。《说文》：“鞮，革履也。”《韵会》引下有“胡人履连胫，谓之络缇”九字。此非《说文》之文，必后人据靴制增入。然可悟靴所以广行之故。因为连胫，其束缚腿部较紧，可以省却行縢。而且靴用革制，亦较能抵御寒湿，且较绸布制者，要坚固些（此以初兴时论，后来靴亦不用革）。 古代丧服，以布之精粗力度，不是讲究颜色的。素服则用白绢，见《诗经·棘人》疏。因为古代染色不甚发达，上下通服白色，所以颜色不足为吉凶之别。后世彩色之服，行用渐广，则忌白之见渐生。宋程大昌《演繁露》说：“《隋志》：宋齐之间，天子宴私著白高帽。隋时以白通为庆吊之服。国子生亦服白纱巾。晋人着白接篱，窦苹《酒谱》曰：接篱，巾也。南齐桓崇祖守寿春，着白纱帽，肩舆上城。今人必以为怪。古未有以白色为忌也。郭林宗遇雨垫巾，李贤《注》云：周迁《舆服杂事》曰，巾以葛为之，形如。本居士野人所服。魏武造，其巾乃废。今国子学生服焉，以白纱为之。是其制皆不忌白也。《乐府白纻歌》曰：质如轻云色如银，制以为袍余作巾。今世人丽妆，必不肯以白纶为衣。古今之变，不同如此。《唐六典》：天子服有白纱帽。其下服如裙、襦、袜皆以白。视朝听讼，燕见宾客，皆以进御。然其下注云：亦用乌纱。则知古制虽存，未必肯用，习见忌白久矣。”读此，便知忌白的由来。按染色之法，见于《周官》天官染人，地官染草，及《考工记》锺氏，其发明亦不可谓不早。但其能普遍于全社会，却是另一问题。绘绣之法，见《书经·皋陶谟》（今本《益稷》）《疏》。昔人误以绘为画。其实绘之本义，乃谓以各色之丝，织成织品。见于宋绵庄《释服》，其说是不错的。染色、印花等事，只要原料减贱，机器发明，制造容易，所费人工不多，便不得谓之奢侈。惟有手工，消费人工最多，总是奢侈的事。现在的刺绣，虽然是美术，其实是不值得提倡的。因为天下无衣无褐的人，正多着呢。