Chapter 56 Chapter 55
Tibet is a vast and sparsely populated place, where the highest mountains in the world are concentrated here, such as Kunlun Mountains, Karakorum Mountains, Himalayas, Nyainqentanglha Mountains, Tanglha Mountains, Thanyinthaung Mountains, Hengduan Mountains, etc. Most of the mountain peaks are above 5,000 meters above sea level. The peaks are covered with snow all the year round, and there are many glaciers distributed there, which become rich solid water storage. They are the birthplace of some major rivers in Tibet and even the whole country, such as the Yarlung Zangbo River, the Yangtze River, the Yellow River, the Nujiang River, and the Lancang River in China. The greatest rivers flow from this snowy plateau.
Tibet covers an area of 1,228,400 square kilometers, with an average altitude of more than 4,000 meters, known as the "roof of the world".Looking around, the general trend of the water systems in these mountains is nearly east-west, and the turn around Qamdo is nearly north-south.The terrain tends to be high in the northwest and low in the southeast, sloping from northwest to southeast.Between the mountains and between the peaks, there are valleys and low-lying basins roughly parallel to the direction of the mountains. There are many rivers, lakes and wetlands in the valley basins.
Because of the high altitude and the criss-crossing mountains, Tibet has a complex and diverse climate.The average annual precipitation is 50 to 5000 mm, but the spatiotemporal distribution is extremely uneven, decreasing obviously from the southeast lowlands to the northwest. The precipitation from June to September accounts for 80% to 90% of the annual precipitation.The vast majority of Tibet is an arid and semi-arid zone, and water shortage is very serious due to engineering. In addition, due to the influence of climate and soil vegetation, too much water causes disasters, and too little water causes drought.
However, Tibet is rich in water resources. There are more than 20 rivers with drainage areas larger than 10,000 square kilometers, and more than 1,500 lakes of various sizes, accounting for one-third of the country's lake area.The annual runoff of surface water is 448.2 billion cubic meters, the annual runoff of groundwater is 110.73 billion cubic meters, and the glacier reserves are about 300 billion cubic meters.Tibet has the world's largest ice and snow reservoir, and there are 2,756 glaciers just west of Bomi.Tibet's theoretical reserves of hydropower resources rank first in the country, with hydropower reserves of about 200 million kilowatts, accounting for about 29.3% of the country's total reserves. About 86.59 million kilowatts have been developed, and there are many dam sites that are easy to develop.
In the past years, the Tibetan people living on the plateau have created their own long and splendid national culture. In addition to nomadic civilization, farming civilization has also been bred and grown on this plateau. Tibetans plant highland barley, and farmers open up farmland and divert water Irrigation, embankment and flood control, I understood the important role of water conservancy very early.However, the organized water control projects in Tibet were mainly carried out after the peaceful liberation of Tibet. In the past, due to the long-term constraints of backward production relations, feudal serfdom and other factors, there were few achievements in water conservancy facilities. At most, some small ditches were dug. Some small ponds have been built, but the construction is simple and cannot resist disasters such as drought, flood and flood.After the peaceful liberation of Tibet, the water conservancy workers in the troops who entered Tibet first carried out survey and design at the Cheren Dam in Gyantse County, built the Cheren Irrigation Area, and successively built the Cheren Irrigation Area in Pengbo, Linzhou, Yigong, Zayu, and Zanang Build farms in other places, and do a lot of basic construction of farmland water conservancy.
After the rebellion was quelled in 1959, democratic reforms were carried out, and millions of converted serfs became the masters of their households. During the movement of "Learning from Dazhai in Agriculture", the basic construction of farmland and water conservancy in Tibet developed rapidly.At that time, it played a great role in the development of agricultural production and the increase of output, and a considerable number of water conservancy projects are still playing their role so far.
With the completion of the Sichuan-Tibet, Qinghai-Tibet, Yunnan-Tibet and Xinjiang-Tibet highways, major cities such as Lhasa, Qamdo, Shigatse, Shannan, Nagqu, and Shiquanhe have built schools, hospitals, and shops. In 1965, the People's Government of the Tibet Autonomous Region was established, and the central government dispatched a large number of technical cadres from various provinces, cities, ministries, and industries to aid Tibet.Among them, the hydropower industry provided the most assistance. From June to August 1965, the Ministry of Electric Power Industry at that time directly subordinated the Northeast Hydropower Survey and Design Institute, Beijing Hydropower Survey and Design Institute, Northwest Hydropower Survey and Design Institute, Chengdu Hydropower Survey and Design Institute, and directly affiliated The Seventh Engineering Bureau and the Eighth Engineering Bureau of Hydropower transferred a large number of engineering and technical personnel to aid in the construction of Tibet. In the same year, the Tibet Hydropower Engineering Office and the Tibet Hydropower Survey and Design Institute were established, and a large number of Tibetan students were recruited to participate in the work. Outstanding students were sent to Sichuan University, Chongqing University, Wuhan University, and Hohai University in the Mainland for further studies. After 4 to 5 years of systematic study, these students returned to Tibet after graduation to become the backbone of Tibet's hydropower construction.
Tibet's water control is on the roof of the world and has the characteristics of a plateau.
One is farmland and pasture irrigation. Because of the high mountains and wide land, large ice and snow coverage, abundant groundwater resources, and relatively large slopes of river beds, most of the cultivated land is distributed in relatively flat valley areas. The water diversion project has unique advantages in the valley areas of Tibet. Water diversion irrigation is convenient and the project is simple.Over the past few decades, it has basically been "according to local conditions, using local materials, mainly importing, supplementing with storage, anti-seepage supporting facilities, and comprehensive utilization".
The second is the water storage project.The plateau has a vast area, the cultivated land is relatively scattered, and the annual precipitation is extremely uneven in time, space and region. In order to adjust the distribution of water, so that there is water to irrigate the farmland in the dry season and solve the problem of drinking water for people and animals, the Tibetans have accumulated the resources to build small ponds. According to experience, some use alpine lakes to build dams at the mouth of the lake to store water.
The third is the water lifting project.Part of the cultivated land in Tibet is on the higher and flatter terraces along the river banks. Due to the deep cut of the river bed or the relatively gentle flow of the river, it is difficult to build canals and divert water. However, this part of the cultivated land is fertile and the climate is suitable for the growth of crops. Very low or abandoned, affecting the development of agriculture in Tibet.Before and at the beginning of the peaceful liberation of Tibet, there was no irrigation station in Tibet due to lack of motivation. In 1964, Tibet's water conservancy department introduced water wheel pumps from the inland area, which were used in Lhasa and Qamdo areas, and then gradually spread to the whole of Tibet. Only then did water lifting irrigation come into being.It was not until there were small hydropower stations in the countryside that electric power irrigation stations really developed.
The fourth is the engineering of motorized wells and large wells.There are a small number of cultivated lands in Tibet with an annual rainfall of only 300 millimeters, and the surface water is relatively scarce.But this part of the cultivated land has abundant groundwater, and the burial depth of the groundwater is relatively shallow, generally about 50 meters below the surface, and some are even only 5 to 6 meters. Therefore, mining groundwater is very convenient, and the investment is low, and the effect is quick. Since Tibet was peacefully liberated Since then, agricultural machine wells and large wells have been drilled to solve farmland irrigation and drinking water for humans and animals.
The fifth is the development and utilization of alpine lakes.There are more than 1,500 alpine lakes in Tibet, which is a major advantage of Tibet.Most of these lakes are distributed on grasslands above 4,000 meters above sea level, and some are located at the source of rivers and the upper reaches of river tributaries. Due to the perennial ice and snow melt and the supplement of rainfall, the water source is relatively abundant and the construction project is relatively simple. Therefore, the development and utilization of alpine lakes water resources are of great economic value.
The sixth is the river management project.River management is an effective way to develop the economy, carry out urban construction, expand the area of cultivated land and the area of planting trees and grass, prevent floods, and expand the area of irrigated land.
Seventh, drinking water for humans and animals and soil and water conservation.Tibet is a vast land with sparse population and scattered dwellings. Although water resources are abundant, the uneven distribution in time, space and region has made it difficult for people and animals to drink water in some places.In most parts of Tibet, the vegetation coverage is poor, the rocks are weathered and broken, and the plateau is windy and rainfall is concentrated, so soil erosion is serious.According to relevant data, the area of moderate water and soil erosion in the autonomous region accounts for about 30% of the total area of the autonomous region, and the area of severe water and soil erosion accounts for about 5% of the total area of the autonomous region. Karegou conducted a small watershed soil and water conservation experiment. After several years of planting trees, grass and repairing terraces, good results have been received.Soil and water conservation work in the whole autonomous region is being carried out in a planned way.
The eighth is to use water energy to build rural hydropower stations.
The Tibet Autonomous Region Water Conservancy Department was established in May 2000. Before 1997, it was still a county-level unit.At that time, the projects managed by the Water Conservancy Bureau were mainly small-scale agricultural water projects, and they only focused on technical management, and the amount of funds managed each year was only several million yuan.Today, the water conservancy system is faced with a lot of work such as planning, preliminary project approval, construction, acceptance, and follow-up management of hundreds of construction projects every year, and the amount of funds managed each year exceeds 1 billion yuan.The total number of employees in the water conservancy system exceeds 3,000.
The large-scale development of water conservancy came after the Fourth Central Tibet Work Symposium in 2001. The central government increased its assistance to Tibet. First, the scale of central investment was unprecedented; second, key projects were implemented intensively; third, water conservancy benefits the people Significant; Fourth, basic work has been continuously strengthened; Fifth, water conservancy management has been gradually standardized.The history of flood control in Tibet has opened a new page.
Starting from the "Eighth Five-Year Plan" period, the water conservancy construction in the Tibet Autonomous Region began to shift the focus to the development and construction of the central basin of "one river and two rivers".The development goals of water conservancy construction include flood control and security in the whole region, hydropower generation, urban and rural water supply, solving drinking water difficulties for humans and animals, soil and water conservation, ecological environment construction, irrigation of cultivated land, pasture irrigation, and forest land irrigation.For this reason, the central government invested more than 2 billion yuan in the 1990s to start the comprehensive development and management of agricultural infrastructure in the "one river and two rivers" basin. The entire project plans to build 40 projects, and the benefited cultivated land will account for the existing cultivated land in Tibet. 45.6% of the total.
The "one river and two rivers" developed and constructed in Tibet refers to the Yarlung Zangbo River and its two tributaries, the Lhasa River and the Nianchu River in its middle reaches. The Lhasa River flows through Lhasa City, and the Nianchu River flows through Shigatse City.This is a gigantic project with the largest scale, the largest investment, the longest duration, and involving multiple industries and disciplines in Tibet.The Yarlung Zangbo River is the only river in Tibet that traverses the entire region from east to west.The central basin is the center of Tibet's politics, economy and culture.The government of the Tibet Autonomous Region established the "One River and Two Rivers Development and Construction Committee", three [cities] established corresponding construction management bureaus, and 18 counties established offices. The development plan of "One River and Two Rivers" began to be implemented in 1991.
I almost walked the Yarlung Zangbo River from the beginning to the end. It was early autumn 7 years after the development and construction of "One River and Two Rivers". I came to this great and lonely river alone.Its more than 2,000-kilometer process is accompanied by the most majestic and tallest mountains in the world, the Himalayas.It stands in the south, like a blue screen stretching continuously to the east and west. Under the high sky, the ice and snow peaks shine with silvery white light.I saw Alizada when she crossed Mount Gangdise. I once saw it at the Shiquan River, but it was swallowed up by the sandstorm from the north in an instant.
The Yarlung Zangbo River is called "Yangchabu Zangbo" in ancient Tibetan literature, which means "water flowing down from the highest peak".It originates from the Jemayangzong Glacier among the icebergs and snowy ridges at the northern foot of the Himalayas.Its upper reaches are the Maquan River, and its east flows into the tributaries of the Lhakha Zangbo, Nianchu River, and Lhasa River. It passes through the Luoyu area at the eastern end of the Himalayas, flows southward into the Brahmaputra River in India, and flows downstream into the Bay of Bengal.It has a total length of 2,900 kilometers [the length in my country is 2,057 kilometers] and a drainage area of 930,000 square kilometers [the area in my country is 240,000 square kilometers].The average altitude of the riverbed is over 3000 meters, making it the highest river in the world.
The most dangerous part of the Yarlung Zangbo River gave birth to the world's largest canyon - the Yarlung Zangbo Grand Canyon. It is located near the Namjagbarwa Peak at the big bend in the lower reaches of the Yarlung Zangbo River. It is 496.3 kilometers long and the deepest reaches 5382 meters. The core river section The average cutting depth is about 5000 meters.Its length exceeds the Colorado Canyon in the United States, which was once known as the world's largest [440 kilometers long], and its depth exceeds the Cordo Canyon in Peru, which was once known as the world's largest [about 3200 meters deep].It has attracted the attention and amazement of the world, and made China proud and proud of it.
Among the major rivers in my country, the Yarlung Zangbo River ranks fifth in terms of length and basin area.Its main source, Gema Yang Zongqu, is above 5,300 meters above sea level.After Sangmusang meets Nanyuan Kubiqu, it flows eastward to Lizi in Saga County. This section is called Maquan River.The valley of Maquan River is open, and the riverbed is generally 10 to 30 meters wide.Above Lizi is the upper reaches of the Yarlung Zangbo River, with a total length of 183 kilometers.
This morning, the car started to climb the mountain from the deep ditch.Before I climbed to the top of the mountain on the zigzag uphill road, suddenly, there was an explosion, and I was so surprised that I jumped up from my seat.The lighter in the car exploded due to a sudden drop in air pressure.Climbing up to the top of the mountain at an altitude of 6,000 meters, you can see thousands of mountains bowing their heads, clouds and mountains rushing straight into the sky, strong winds, and the earth is yellow. The vast world seems to present tens of thousands of years.On my left is the yellow-brown stone mountain of Gangdise rising high on the grassland; on the right, the blue mountains with snow caps are the Himalayas, which traverse the western sky; in the middle, the flat grassland, like a huge river bed, From north to south, unobstructed.In the far distance, there is a sacred mountain, Gang Rinpoche, which is the birthplace of the four most famous rivers in Tibet, including the Yarlung Zangbo River.
The Himalayas are the tallest and youngest mountain range on Earth. The word "Himalayan" comes from Sanskrit, "Himalayan" means snow, "Laya" means hometown, and Himalaya means the hometown of snow.It has a total length of 2,400 kilometers and a width of about 200 to 300 kilometers. The average altitude of the main ridge peak is 6,200 meters, and there are more than 50 peaks with an altitude of more than 7,000 meters.The highest peak, Qomolangma, stands on the top of the earth and the first of ten thousand mountains, with an altitude of 8848.43 meters.
The Gangdese Mountains and the corresponding Nyainqentanglha Mountains are the dividing line between the south and the north of Tibet, and also the dividing line between the outer and inner rivers of Tibet. "Gangdise" means "the source of all waters" or "the root of all mountains" in Tibetan.The most famous sacred mountain in Tibet, Gang Rinpoche, is in its mountain system, emitting mysterious snow light.The Yarlung Zangbo River has been accompanying the Himalayas and the Gangdise Mountains, flowing from west to east.
Gang Rinpoche has no continuous snow peaks, only single isolated peaks.The mountain peak is covered with a thick layer of snow, like a white lotus that has not yet opened, and like a plump breast of Mother Earth, its shape is similar to a standard geometric shape.Below her, mediocre mountains surrounded her, forming a continuous row of mountains.We were on the flat grassland under the mountains, looking up at her face that was shrouded in clouds and could never appear in full.
Gang Rinpoche is 6,714 meters above sea level, and it is composed of horizontal Gangdise conglomerate, which is a rare Eocene strata in Tibet with weak structural changes.She is surrounded by towering peaks and castle-like mountains.
In my imagination, the sacred mountain is surrounded by two major mountain systems, and few people in the world can reach it. She is remote, weird, untouched by the world, and only shines with the cold light of ice and snow.She is proud of everything in the celestial body, and presents a mysterious face like heaven to the human beings who occasionally come to her feet.I even feel a chill in choosing such mountains and peaks for religion.Most of the sacred places considered by Buddhism are inaccessible desert areas or harsh ice and snow areas.People add all their delusions and legends to her, layer by layer, just like reaching her eyes.The silence of Shenshan seems to encourage this kind of fanatical passion. People even get confused by all kinds of hypotheses and dream talk that they are talking about. In the end, they can't even tell whether it is true or not. Down, trembling, out of spirits.It seems that human beings are deceiving themselves and practicing themselves, but in fact it is the mysterious majesty of nature, which has to make people have delusions and feelings of worship.In the face of such a mountain, apart from religious feelings, can you still have a sense of normalcy?
From Zanda to the foot of the holy mountain, I looked up at Gang Rinpoche among a shepherd girl and her flock of sheep, and realized this kind of initial human emotion.Due to the deconstruction of nature by modern civilization, it does not have a sense of awe for a person with sufficient scientific knowledge, but it also produces a feeling of surprise and shock: how small a person is under such a magical snow peak; The snow-capped peaks and ridges together are looming, can it not make people dream about it?The difference between Shenshan and my imagination is that her peak is even more magical!
People once heard it, no matter whether it is reasonable or not, it should be or not, almost blindly and indiscriminately adding their own explanations to this mountain.Hinduism, Jainism, Bonism and Buddhism competed to seal her as their holy place.Bon taught her the title of "Jiuzhong Wanzi Mountain".Dunba Xinrao, the founder of the Bon religion, descended from here and walked down the natural steps on the top of the snow to the world.There are 360 gods living in the mountains.
The most famous Mount Sumeru in Buddhism refers to Gang Rinpoche.
Jainism sealed her as "Ashtabha", and its founder Reishhaba Nasha was liberated here.
The Indians called her "Keras" and believed that she was the center of the universe.Hinduism believes she is the abode of Shiva, the god of destruction.This Shiva has boundless mana, can destroy the world, and can also create the world.The world moves because of her dance.Sometimes she sits on a lotus pedestal, and sometimes she shows a kind face from the top of the mountain.
After the struggle for believers, Buddhism and Bon religion will finally come to compete for this mountain, although this is only a purely spiritual competition.
It is this sacred mountain that has attracted hundreds of millions of worshipers, including Mongolians, Aryans and some Malays.They caress this distant holy mountain with their richest imaginations, bless her with their most sincere hearts, sing her praises and worship her.People regard her as the center of the world and bow down at her feet.
As a natural Gang Rinpoche, it has magical landforms and geographical features.
The four major rivers in Tibet, the Shiquan River, the Xiangquan River, the Maquan River and the Kongque River all originate from the Gangdese Mountains.According to research, among the four rivers, Shiquan River and Xiangquan River both originate from Gangdese Mountains. Although the Kongque River does not originate from Gangdese Mountains, its source is at the opposite side of Shenshan Mountain, and it belongs to Pulan County. territory.The Maquan River is a river jointly conceived by the Himalayas and the Gangdise Mountains, and its source is also close to the sacred mountain.
The Maquan River develops to the east and becomes the first big river in Tibet, the Yarlung Zangbo River. Blocked by the Hengduan Mountains, it makes a big turn to the southwest and flows into India. It is called the Brahmaputra River; it meets the Ganges River in Bangladesh.The Shiquan River flows north into Kashmir and becomes the upper reaches of the Indus River.The Xiangquan River goes all the way west and enters India and is called the Sutlej River.The Peacock River goes south out of Nepal and then into India, becoming the upper reaches of the Gogra River, a tributary of the Ganges.
These four rivers start from the same place, Gang Rinpoche, and flow to the southeast and northwest respectively, gathering snow and rainwater from the mountain peaks along the way, going farther and farther, growing stronger and stronger. Miraculously at the same time, with astonishing strength and courage, they split the huge mountain range Himalayas that blocked their progress, and then gathered together and flowed into the Indian Ocean together.
This miraculous and extraordinary coincidence is puzzling to people, and it shows a divine revelation somewhere: if the center of the world is not here, then where is it?
About 40 kilometers south of Gang Rinpoche, there is a strange blue light flashing in the holy lake Manasarovar.Standing by the lake and looking at Gang Rinpoche from a distance, all the peaks surrounding her have disappeared, leaving only a faint blue mountain range lying low on the horizon.Only Gang Rinpoche stands aloof, she is so pure and graceful, she is like a round of dawn moon rising from the sky, and like a branch of swaying and shining wind lotus, blooming on a blue lake.This is a rare spectacle in the universe. The spherical Gang Rinpoche represents the sun and the father god, and the curved Manasarovar represents the feminine moon and the mother god.This is a holy place where the sun and the moon shine, and the oracle once again implies the will of the center of the world.
Like the Tibetans, the ancient Indians had special feelings for these great rivers that are closely connected with their lives: they bathed in the Ganges as a special sacred ritual; they held the river water on their heads as holy water, There was such a serene and bright smile on his face. "The radiant, colorful, and invincible Indus, carrying thousands of rivers and rivers across the fields, is as fast as a beautiful mare flashes by." The majestic river, and thus trace back to the source of the great river, and worship it.When they look north at the snow-capped peaks of the Himalayas, they always cast their sacred eyes there with expressions of gratitude and awe.
Tibetans are also full of admiration for water. They regard the lake as a holy lake and a sacred lake. They surround the lake with long heads that throw their bodies to the ground. Exquisite, some pottery pots are wrapped with precious beads, wrapped so carefully, full of cherished and pious feelings.I once saw a pottery pot from Tibet collected by the writer Cheng Xianzhang at his home. Red beads circled around the pot, with a round mouth and a small protruding mouth through which the water in the pot passed. Pour it out without spilling a drop.Under the light, the red beads still shine brightly after a long time.That is the most precious comparison to the water in a jar drop by drop.The old writer held it in the palm of his hand carefully, as if the pot was filled with the holy water of the plateau.
Facing the sacred water, the great lake Manasarovar at the source of the river, we drove into the prairie at the foot of Mount Kailash.The vast valley, green grass, is so flat that cars can run everywhere, like a highway, the car runs like a whistling wind.When the sun was setting, it rushed through the 40 kilometers of grassland and rushed to the beach of the holy lake Manasarovar.The holy lake has turned into a maze of colors in the twilight.Along the way, the setting sun was painted like gold leaf and the prairie undulated like waves. It was really the most beautiful color and land in the world, and the warmth of the sun was heartbreaking.But now, the setting sun has faded away, and the gray-blue lake is only shimmering with broken gold.With the evening wind, it was so cold that people huddled together.The pace of running to the lake stopped here, and the shutter was pressed, and the holy lake at dusk became an eternal memory.
Manasarovar is the "Eternal Invincible Lake", with an area of 412 square kilometers, an altitude of 4587 meters, and a maximum depth of 77 meters.The lake is surrounded by colorful stones and golden sand, with a circumference of 120 kilometers. It takes three days for saints to walk around the lake.It is said that the surface of the lake is raised, and you cannot see the opposite bank from the lake.When the boat reaches the center of the lake, there are always strong winds and huge waves.The Swedish explorer Sven Hedin arrived in Manasarovar. He ventured into the holy lake at night and encountered a hurricane.
This night, I stayed in a village between the holy lake and the ghost lake.
Exploring an empty temple on the cliff at night, the wind blows the prayer flags, the holy lake at the end of the day and at the foot of the mountain is hidden in the sluggishness of the night, still revealing a layer of more dignified blue.Where the wind chime rings, the spirit of all things seems to be waking up to the clear and lonely sound.Clearly there is a spirit energy approaching heavily, making the climber suddenly speed up the pace of leaving.
This night, the moon rises very late from the holy lake, which is as wild and remote as this land.Thinking of the moon in my hometown, the moonlight is kind and classical, which is the gracefulness in Tang poetry and Song poetry, moving with the whirling bamboo shadows and willow branches.But now it illuminates its own vast and desolate world, dispelling the charm of the millennium, are these two moons really the same round?
And how strange and moving is the crystal clear water in such a desolation!The holy lake, the distant pilgrim, came to her from all sides.They come to the lake to bathe and let the water seep into their skin.Because of the holy lake, sinful people become new people after bathing.They carry the lake back from here for thousands of miles, and it will be the greatest honor in a person's life to put a drop on the palm of their relatives, or pat it on the forehead like sprinkled with nectar.A lake was raised by people: "Anyone who physically touches the land of Manasarafar [referring to Manasang Yumco], or who has bathed in its waves, will enter the paradise of Brahma; anyone who drinks Those who pass through its water will ascend to Shiva's heavenly palace and be freed from the sins of a hundred rounds of reincarnation..." This is the praise of the holy lake by Hindus.In "The Western Regions of the Great Tang Dynasty", Tang Sanzang called it "the Jade Pool of the Western Heaven", which is the residence of the Queen Mother of the Western Heaven and a pure place with boundless Buddhism.
At night, the dogs in the village stopped barking, and the moon had not yet risen, and everything seemed to sink into ancient time.After I bathed in the hot spring, I returned to the village on the river bed alone under the faint sky light.Several Tibetan girls sang a love song on the river bank.It was a voice that flowed from my heart. It was a little lingering, a little sentimental, affectionate in its elegance, straightforward in its melody, rising and falling, high and low in the middle of the night by the deserted river, making my steps It's like going to a lover's tryst, making my mood ethereal like hearing the call of a fairy.I have never heard such a beautiful and tender song in Tibetan areas.It is as mysterious and deep as the night.For the first time, I felt a different feeling in the hearts of Tibetan girls.No matter which nationality, the feelings of girls are always poetry.
The singing died away the instant I approached.I searched among several big rocks, and the singer disappeared mysteriously without a sound.The earth returned to the eternal silence.Is this my hallucination?
In the spacious, warm and clean house of an elderly couple, they felt at home that night and slept very comfortably and warmly.This is the warmth overflowing from the kind smiles of the elderly couple.I am thus reminded of my grandmother, and the smell of sleeping in her bed as a child.On a long journey, I am longing for warmth.
Set off early the next morning.There were quite a few people standing in the landlord's yard. They were all young people from the village, both men and women, all of whom were plainly and beautifully dressed.The moment the car left, they all waved to me.I saw a group of bright and magical light jumping in the bright eyes of the two girls, flickering like the flame of life movingly.
Around the blue crystal ghost lake, from Namunani Snow Peak to Pulan.
There is actually a ghost lake beside the holy lake, and there is a river between the ghost lake and the holy lake.Sacred Lake is a freshwater lake, while Ghost Lake is a brackish lake.Walking close to the ghost lake, the lake is bluer than the other eye, and it seems that it is not the wind that stirs up the waves with strong shadows, but the power from inside her, like the trembling of a person's body, like the electric waves of a seductive woman.People put the sad and beautiful ghost lake into another book because they are afraid of a kind of soul-stirring beauty.Beauty often only makes people full of pity, but sometimes the beauty is too coquettish, and it will cause a slight panic.
To the west of Namunani Peak, a group of Nepalese believers huddled on a truck. They drove over from a snow-water riverbed in the upper reaches of the Kongque River and went to worship on the holy mountain.By the river beach, two Nepalese and one Indian were lighting a fire to make coffee.They spent a long night here with two drivers and a businessman from Xinjiang.Two Nepalese jumped into the morning snow to bathe, and then meditated naked under the rising sun, holding lotus fingers, eyes closed, chanting.A younger one paints white milk powder on the forehead, bridge of the nose, chest and the outside of the arms for the other bearded character.The two of them sat around the small fire, as if there was no one else around, entered a world of meditation, let the biting cold wind blow hard without realizing it.
Snow River, formed by the melting of snow on Namunani Peak.Every afternoon, when the sun shines at noon, the snow melts and the river surges.Yesterday, a jeep was washed away by snow while crossing the river.Another car fell into the river bed and was rescued by a truck from Xinjiang.As soon as the jeep drove away, the truck got stuck in the river bank and couldn't get out.The three Uyghurs from Xinjiang and the Nepalese and Indians who hitchhiked to the Kinabalu Mountain froze all night beside this snowy river.
To Pulan, we also have to cross the Xueshui River.The Toyota drove up the wide riverbed, and the riverbed was full of stones, the stones were as big as a basin, and the flowing water was densely covered one after another.The car was either stuck by a boulder or almost fell into the river. This was a severe test for the driver's skills and courage.Although we made it through smoothly, we had to take another risk in order to get back before the snow rose in the afternoon.
Thousands of miles of red land, thousands of miles of red land.The mountains of Pulan have returned to the landforms of the Shiquan River.I saw a team of Nepalese porters appearing on this land full of sand and gravel and scorching sun.They walked alone, and became the most eye-catching scenery in the deserted desert.
They wore pointed plush hats, ragged and dirty cotton-padded or animal-skin jackets, some wore rubber shoes, and some were barefoot, walking on the sun-baked gravel like this.The big sack and rattan basket on the back covered the top of the head from the hip.They hunched over and sweated like a bath.From a distance, I can only see huge bags and baskets, a pair of short legs, moving inch by inch on the endless hillside.
After passing the border checkpoint, I went straight to Kejia Village on the Nepalese border without staying in Purang County.
A long and endless Peacock River rushes away in the deep mountain gorge of the Himalayas.Kejia Village, surrounded by snow-capped mountains, is quiet and serene, and even the vibration of bee wings can be heard clearly.There is a famous temple here, Kejia Temple. Some people who have finished visiting the holy mountain will come here to worship the main god Manjusri Bodhisattva in the temple.Many foreign tourists also enter the Chinese border from here.The thousand-year-old temple has lost the silence of the years.What time is the incense burning in the temple, how many monks are there, and there is a bit of vulgarity in the neglect.
The watchtower-style farmhouses scattered on the hillside are all two-story, all made of stone. The downstairs is like a cellar, where firewood is piled up and cattle and sheep are kept, and people live upstairs.People in the village herd herds, and those who do farm work do farm work, and it is difficult to see people on the ground.
Along the way, from entering Pulan County, step by step highland barley fields appeared on the sand and gravel, and there were tall green trees on the side of the road from time to time.In this barren frontier, this is really a luxurious green, the green of fairyland, and the green of mythology.Kejia Village has such greenery, and silvery snow water gurgling down, they are living in the miracle of nature.This miracle is inseparable from the Kongque River. The people of Kejia Village diverted the water from the river into the sandy land. The irrigation canal diverted water from the upper reaches to the lower land. You could hear the gurgling water everywhere, and the sandy land became verdant when it met the water. One piece.Highland barley, vegetables, and trees are all very bright green.The industrious and intelligent Tibetans not only have a long history of national culture, but also have a long tradition of opening up farmland, diverting water for irrigation, and building embankments for flood control.
In September 2009, at the meeting of the Ministry of Water Resources to aid Tibet, Minister Chen Lei requested to strengthen the construction of water conservancy infrastructure in pastoral areas, develop irrigated pastures, develop waterless pastures, and build forage and fodder bases to improve the livestock-carrying capacity of pastures.Preliminarily determined Jizhong Township, Basu County, Qamdo Prefecture, Huoer Township, Pulan County, Ngari Prefecture, Pubao Town, Bange County, Naqu Prefecture, Zhike Township, Gangba County, Shigatse Prefecture, and Gongtang Township, Damxung County, Lhasa City [Optional] Build 5 forage grass feed bases.Through different water-saving irrigation technologies such as canal irrigation, pipe irrigation, and sprinkler irrigation, the construction of grassland water conservancy infrastructure will be strengthened, and the conditions for pasture production will be improved.The project will start in early 2010.A place like Pulan can create a real oasis if the water is used properly.
In this remote remote village, it is popular that "women are superior to men". Like the March 8th Women's Day in the Mainland, men here also have Men's Day.From the second day of offering sacrifices to the indigenous gods, the five days from February 11th to 15th are men's festivals. Men over the age of 18 all gathered in the small square of Kejia Temple to drink and watch Tibetan opera during these five days. The tsampa, ghee, meat and wine they ate were all collected by prestigious old people.When watching Tibetan opera, men sit on cushions, while women and children can only stand and watch, and every household has to send a woman to serve wine.
It's such a dramatic scene in life, men wanting women to dote on them, and it's hilarious to think about.
Men act like a baby for their own reasons.In Koga, the matrilineal society still remains, a man has to stand at the door to marry a wife [previously it was robbing].Which girl do you like? First, put butter on the door lintel before dawn, and then place wine jugs a few meters away from the door, and the suitors will start standing straight in front of the door, waiting for the owner to wake up. , opened the door, and quickly took off his hat to salute.When the host finds suitors standing outside the door, they tend to ignore them.When it’s time for dinner, the suitor’s home brings food, or someone comes to replace the person standing at the door and asks him to go back to eat.
After three days like this, if the other party has not moved, the man will have another relative to accompany him.This station, sometimes as long as half a month.
The man's "standing marriage" can generally "stand" and come to his daughter-in-law.If the woman does not want to marry, there is a way, that is to know that the man is coming to stand at the door, and get up early in the morning to lock the door and prevent the other party from lighting the butter lamp, so the man loses the qualification to stand.
When a daughter-in-law comes to the "stand", it is not like people in other places who marry the daughter-in-law through the family. The husband and wife set up a separate family, and a new family is born.What Kejia Village advocates is the separation of husband and wife.In Kejia, where there are less than 100 households, there are more than 30 households separated.The man had to go back to his own home after he got married, and he only came to walk around during the busy farming season and during festivals, to help with some farm work, and sometimes to do needlework.With a child, the father can often visit the child.When the child grows up, the father can also take the child away as long as the agreement is agreed.在此之前，父亲并没有抚养子女的义务。
之所以还保留这种婚姻关系，科加人讲了两点理由：一是经济原因，因为婚礼要花费大笔钱，男人还得向女人付奶钱，家里穷的付不起钱；二是人际关系，一般家庭都由女儿掌权，有了妯娌，人多是非也多，弄不好还要分家，大家庭和血亲关系就难以保持了。
这种“女儿国”的家庭结构，我在云南宁蒗的泸沽湖也遇到了。摩梭人对这种婚姻关系十分敬重，老人们还担忧年轻的一代经不住外来生活方式的冲击，把他们这个世代因袭的好传统丢掉。他们把它称之为“走婚”。与科加人不同的是，摩梭人男女青年相爱，男的要半夜三更偷偷地溜进姑娘的花楼【成丁的少女都有一个花楼，姑娘长到十四五岁，家里人就让出一间房让姑娘单独居住，家人从不去打扰】。直到女方生了儿女，婚姻才正式公开。男人由母亲做主，到女方家大摆宴席，承认这宗婚姻关系。也有极个别不愿承认的，这也没有太大关系，因为男方不存在抚养义务，又被排斥于血缘之外，因此婚姻变得十分自由。我曾问一群摩梭族小孩，知不知道爸爸，他们都点头。我问爸爸妈妈中喜欢谁，几个孩子异口同声说“妈妈”。
泸沽湖与科加村都处于边地的崇山峻岭之中，前者位于云南、四川和西藏交界的横断山脉之中，后者则处于与尼泊尔相交的喜马拉雅山脊里。天然的屏障，使他们保持了遥远的古风。
这一天，我们沿着雅鲁藏布江上游的马泉河一路东行。这是一条南线，这条路与北线大不相同。拉萨与阿里可以走通的路有两条，分南北两线，岔路口在萨噶县的二十二道班处。东西直行，是一条隐在喜马拉雅山脉和冈底斯山脉之间的路，西行经过萨噶、仲巴、普兰、札达到达阿里的狮泉河，称为南线。右转九十度弯，往北走，经措勤、改则、革吉到狮泉河，则称为北线。北线一路行走在藏北高原上，平均海拔为5000米，沿路大部分是无人地带，去的车极少，路不熟的话，大峡谷中的草原、荒漠容易让人迷路。路途也几乎没有给养，车出毛病的话，有生命危险。数月前，一台阿里开出的东风车，突遇一场雪暴，三个司机冻死在车厢，直到前不久才被发现，肉已被狼吃光了，只剩下一堆白骨。
南、北两线除南线断断续续有人正在修筑泥土路外，路都是汽车自己走出来的。沿途河流密布，北线仍然没有桥梁，更没有船，汽车过河只能从河床里蹚过去，车在河床里熄了火，不是被雪水冲走，就是得等上十天半月，等待过路的车来搭救，结果，车不是报废，就是丢弃在荒野，司机要回去请人来修理，前后一两个月也是可能的。南线已经在许多河床上修桥了。眼中所见，满目的野草不再是一寸见长稀稀疏疏近乎半荒漠的了，它是疯长的一片，虽稀疏，却足可呈现一幅风吹草低见牛羊的风景画来。大的石子少了，土地变得有了一些油性。
从两大山脉发源的河流，蛇行于草地，银光一闪就是它们凝脂聚玉的面容，牝马一样地突然出现，又马尾一样寂寞地纠缠你，让车绕着它转来转去。只有找到一个合适的位置，你才能别它而去。由于河床中泥的成分大大增加，即使不深的地方，看得不准也可能陷入河床淤泥之中。
一路上都有河流相伴。我甚至在霍尔发现一个地图上没有标注的大湖。
尽管草这么深，扎西说，牛羊并不喜欢吃，它们中意的是北线那些低矮又有韧性的草。沿途还真难见到牧人和羊群，只有不时出现的一具具倒毙于荒野的动物，有马、牛、驴，内脏都已腐烂成泥，外表皮毛依然完好。这是去年冬天雪灾所造成的惨象。厚厚的积雪把草原覆盖了，动物们一点草也吃不到，活活饿死、冻死。
眺望着遥远的喜马拉雅雪峰，观赏着无边无际的草地，面前不时出现的河流，从溪流渐渐变得宽阔了，水色从深蓝开始变得淡白，等到遇到修路工人，面前已经是流水湍急的马泉河了。它又叫当却藏布。一到洪水季节，马泉河无法过车，现在终于开始在河上架桥了。路修了两年，架成的桥却只有一座，在这遥远又艰苦的西域，这么高海拔的地方，修筑路桥不是一件容易的事。
现在过河我们仍然要从水中走。第一次，车到大河边，河水逞威般流得满滩都是，喧腾的声音里，既有浅滩的哗哗，又有深水的嗷嗷。对岸一台东风车陷在河里，还有一台停在岸上，不敢过来。
我们来到河边，扎西、索多沿河滩走了半天，也找不出一个有把握的地方。同行者去修桥工地交涉，这座桥似乎已合龙，也许侥幸能够过车。等了足足40分钟，结果是桥还不能走车。有人说出20元钱给我们带路，扎西一听连连摇头，他信不过这些人。他说，到时他把你带到一个陷车的地方，再等着向你要钱拉车。
要过河，只有自己下水探路。两位同伴脱下鞋子和长裤，就往水中走。扎西在岸上指挥。
涉过两处浅水，他们蹚到了下游的主河道，那里较为宽阔，水应该浅一些。两个人一步一步向急流中探脚，摸索着前进。水淹到了大腿，两人赶紧撩起上衣，溅起的水花把内裤全打湿了。一人一个趔趄，差一点扑进河中。另一个扶住了他，两个人手牵手，互相交错往前走。其中一个战战兢兢，显得很紧张。过了河心的急流，水又浅了，他们上了岸。
扎西壮了胆，叫我们上车，按探出的路线开始过河。
民工都过来围观。这一次让人觉得有点凶多吉少，丰田车像一条船，蹚过了一条又一条河汊，最后在几乎就要熄火的一刹那挺了过来，冲过了主河道，开上了沙滩。
尽管我们一路成功地渡过了众多的河流，但这条深深的帕羊河还是让我们功亏一篑。这是一条大河，从北流入马泉河。过河前，我和两位同伴一齐下水探路。水已淹到腰部，冰冷的雪水冻得骨头都失去了知觉。我探到一个坑，底下石头不多，是一个危险的地方。我们上到对岸后，见扎西发动汽车仍往那个地方开，我急得大喊大叫，他一点都听不到。我们眼睁睁看着他把车开下了陡岸，顷刻，水就淹没了轮子，淹掉了前灯，直淹到顶盖，车身像船那样漂了几漂就沉了下去，无声无息了。
我们冲下水，直扑落水的车。车里装的棉被、食物、摄影包都是不能打湿的。水往车内哗哗灌着，我们一趟一趟往岸上抢运。有两位女性，吓得脸色惨白，几乎要哭了。她们被背上岸后，车里已灌满了水，扎西像个落汤鸡，沮丧地泡在河里，低着头，一步一步向岸边蹚来。这一次，河床宽阔，水势浩大，水面已淹到车窗边了。小车就像一个随时可能会漂走的小岛，显得孤立无助。
这是一个巨大的草原，疯生的草高可及膝，喜马拉雅山脉与冈底斯山脉都远远地退于一隅，只露出冰冷的雪峰。我们呆呆地望着它，眼睛深处结着两粒雪光。
情况急转直下，一是晚上水涨，车可能被冲走；二是荒原上，这点食物维持不了两天；三是索多的车油也不多了。
沉默，死一般的沉默，只有河水湍急的奔涌，留下一路沉沉的水流声。
换上干的衣服，天色渐渐昏暗。
唯一的办法是去前面经过的工地找车来拖。然而，我们离开那个工地已经太远了，天又黑了，油料也不知道够不够。顾不得那么多了，即使走路，我们也只得去试一试了。
为防意外，扎西、索多和两位同伴都上了车。这一路全是荒野，没见过一户牧民，这里可能不是牧区吧。黑暗使美丽的草原变得恐怖起来。
我抬头看到那些浮动在天边的乌云，那不时刮来的一阵阵阴风，似乎早就隐藏了玄秘的阴谋，一旦我们陷入困境，它就显露出了凶恶的一面，不再温情、浪漫与含蓄。这片无人地带，我们对它一无所知，不知还隐匿着什么杀机。想起改则遇到的那群狼，当索多的车灯最后一点光亮也在草原深处的黑暗里消失时，我的心不由得紧缩了一下。
我们剩下的四个赶忙搭起了帐篷。
天黑得好快，一会儿工夫就几乎伸手不见五指。天边隐隐滚过一阵雷声，沉寂的大草原，就只有流水冲击车身发出的声音。
我们躲在一个帐篷内。我把照相机的脚架从另一个帐篷搬过来，荒原上我听到了自己脚步踩压草根的声音，就像踩着了整个草原一样。声音引来黑暗的包围，我感到草原的谛听，在那黑暗的深处，总觉得有什么东西在注视着我们的一举一动。
不知过了多久，终于听到远处传来发动机的响声，拉开门帘，看见了黑暗深处的灯光，有救了！一定是索多的车。
我打开电筒看表，时间正好是深夜十二点。
索多他们的车子开出之后，觉得前面工地太远了，说不定丰田车半路就会抛锚。扎西想起帕羊河下游还有一个工地，好像离我们这里不太远，不如冒险去碰碰运气。
下游果然有一个修桥的工地，听说要拖车，他们怎么也不肯援手。无奈，只好求其次，借钢缆自己来拉。为了这根钢缆，大家好说歹说，就差下跪了。磨了足足半个小时，交了400元押金，这才借到手。
要拖车了，还是两位同伴主动要求下水。他们喝下从工地买来的沱牌白酒，又用酒在身子上擦了擦。扎西交代他脚踩哪里，方向盘往哪边打。索多把车开到距河边最近的位置。
他们两个在几支手电筒的照射下，下到了冰冷而漆黑一团的河水里，一步一步向那台车靠近。
摸到车尾巴，他们俯身挂钢缆，身子浸到了水里，全身衣服都湿透了。挂上钢缆，其中一个爬进驾驶室，索多发动了车子。
汽车往前开动，一个猛冲，钢缆突然一绷，河中的车子动了。由于浮力大，车子乖乖地一点一点向岸边靠过来，只一会儿就露出了尾灯、车轮。索多一鼓作气，直到拖上岸来，拉到了草地上面。
大家欢呼雀跃，激动得眼泪都流了出来，一切不祥的预感就在这一刻全部烟消云散了。
半夜一点，我们又忙着做饭。这时才感觉肚子饿了。还是在圣湖吃的面条，已经18个小时没吃东西了。
这一晚，是人生中少有的激动之夜，大悲大喜，一天内人的情绪降到了最低点，又升到了最高点。吃过饭后，我们情不自禁地唱啊跳啊，人人争着表演，铁锹变成了话筒，锅碗盆筷变成了乐器，把从儿时学会的歌到最新的流行歌曲，挨个唱了个遍，依然难以尽兴。兴奋的心情需要时间发泄，我们在黑暗中狂呼乱叫。这个不知沉寂多少个地质年代的大草原，第一次有了人声，第一次打破了死寂，我感到了它的惊讶和困惑。
这是一片任你狂呼哪怕喊哑了嗓子也无人见证的荒野，任你乱跳哪怕蹦得再高也让人自觉渺小如尘埃的大草原，它永远没有感觉，永远让你感受孤独，但我们仍要向这死亡一样深广的草地宣泄，调动我们生命中具有的全部疯狂。我们为自己而歌！为自己而跳！
东方发白，时针已指向凌晨四点。大家余兴未尽，十分不情愿地进了帐篷。
第二天就过来了一个车队，他们从对岸来的，六台车有四台陷进了我们陷落的位置。四台车连成一串，拉那台陷进去的东风车，拖了三四个小时才把它拖上岸来。
扎西修车修了一个上午，索多拖着他的车在草原上跑，直到过了正午，小车才喘过气来。
我们再不敢过河了，扎西决定回头走他们昨晚走的路线，去下游工地，求人家过桥。那座桥已经合龙，只有局部要搭木板。
第二天穿过仲巴，中午冲到了萨噶，欲过雅鲁藏布江时，不想，又面临了一道更大的难关。
雅鲁藏布江水猛涨，渡口接上面的命令，为了防止意外事故发生，一律停止摆渡。我们从这里直插樟木口岸的计划眼看就要泡汤。
管理渡口的是一个公路道班，我与扎西去找他们时，道班的人在搓麻将。我们站在一边，等他们决出胜负。当头的是一个脸上有块烂皮的中年男人，我拿出记者证，向他陈述了一大堆理由。他最后表态是：他去请示县公路段，如果上面同意他摆渡，他就摆。他说，万一出了事他可负不起责任。
于是，我和这位班长又坐上索多的车，返回几公里外的萨噶县城。不巧，段长下公路道班了，很晚才能回来，我们无功而返。
晚上，我们就在道班的院子里搭帐篷。院内已搭了一个牦牛帐篷，篷内住了几个日喀则的藏民。他们赶着一大群羊从普兰过来，边放牧边赶路，走走停停，过起了吉卜赛人一样的流浪生活。道班班长说，他们是去转山的，现在是赶回日喀则去。
我们遇到过很多前往岗仁波齐转山的，大都是开着东风车，天一黑，车往有河流的地方一停，一帮人，有的扎帐篷，有的生火，妇女孩子像到了家一样欢天喜地，这也算得上是旅游吧，像这群放牧着羊群一路徒步去转山的，若不是别人介绍，我们根本分不出他们是牧民还是转山人。路上遇到的放牧者也许就是去转神山的。
晚上无处可去，我们来到了雅鲁藏布江边。
江水不嚣张，但那沉稳的奔流偶尔激起的水花声，让人感受到大江的浑厚和博大，沉沉地涌动，大地也在这流动中凸显了它的苍苍茫茫，有如大勇若怯，大智若愚，雅鲁藏布江不动声色里，已把滔滔逝水送到了遥远的大海。
临江总令人思绪绵绵，令智者感怀人生，唐时张若虚一曲《春江花月夜》发尽千古感叹。站在黑暗中的大江边，我还有何感慨？千古一绝，要说的似都说尽了。
第二天一早，我和班长再去县城，段长十分通融，看过我的记者证后，他说：“既然你们情况特殊，那就做特殊处理吧。”
摆渡开始了，一根巨大的钢索横贯江面。汽车开上浮船后，班长和他的妻子把两根挂在钢索上的缆绳，一根放长，一根缩短，浮船与钢索形成了一个斜角，激流一冲，船就开始沿着钢索滑向江心。这真是一个奇妙的发明，利用水力就把船推过江去了。我们大开了一回眼界。
藏族人以自己的发明再一次证明了他们的智慧。这是对水力最巧妙的一次借用。大江之上生活的藏族人，他们最懂得水性。
从萨噶往昂仁，车离开了雅鲁藏布江，偏向北面。这一天，太阳再也没有出来，路面一片泥泞。雨时停时下，有时，突然一阵冰雹袭来，草地上白花花一片，不消数分钟，一切又烟消云散。有时，不知从哪里冒出来黑压压的铅云，像要把我们包裹起来似的，车子像在恐怖片中穿越。走不多远，银白的天空又一次复现。
天空中，有的地方是白云环绕的蓝天，有的地方是阴天，远处的山脉上却是阴沉沉近乎黑色的云，它与山顶的积雪形成了强烈对比，让人觉得那一线白光像是一道天缝，透着天国的诡秘之光。
几次向北沿着一条江行走，这条江也十分宽阔，但显然不是雅鲁藏布江，两江都水势浩大，已变为黄色。我问扎西江的名字，他说随便的一条江，怎么叫它都行，我为这些江河叫屈，这么大的一条江，若在内地，该是名扬四方了。翻地图，附近只有一条多雄藏布，也许就是它吧，无人能证实。多雄藏布在接近日喀则时汇入雅鲁藏布江。
在高原，像江和山的名字张冠李戴的事情时时发生，我想原因大致也不外乎一是人迹罕至，就是偶有牧人来过，他也不知道这条河、这座山是否有了名字，他完全可以按照自己一时的意愿来称呼它们；二则，目前高原地图还十分粗略，不是大江大湖和有名的山脉，它实难录入。阿里和藏北在地图上，就是大片大片的空白地带，有不少密密麻麻的湖泊，却没有一个是标注了名称的，它们本身就还没有名字。
我一路发现了许多大的湖泊，地图上却找不到踪影。有的湖地图上有标记，却又不是我所见湖的方位，是地图上的湖就是我们所见的湖，抑或是另外的湖呢？还是地图画错了呢？这些都是谜，谜团解不开时，就来个张冠李戴，这也是无可奈何的事。
有一次，我翻开地图，这个方位只有一座叫格布日的山，海拔6185米，山下有一个湖，一切都相符。然而，我们是在山和湖之间，地图上的路却在湖的东面。这座山也许是格布日，也许是别的什么山，我为对它的一无所知难过。
这些山和湖，就像高原上的原始部落，无人了解它们。它们也没有自己的称谓，是另一类“野生动物”。
麻烦的事情就被我们遇到了：有一个村庄，藏民叫“LuoLuo”，我不知它应该叫“乐乐”、“洛洛”还是“罗罗”，见藏民个个快乐得近乎疯狂，我便私下里叫它“乐乐”了。
藏族人特别是游牧的藏民，也许还不习惯叫自己的村名，我猜想有些“村”也许根本就没有名称。村庄只是对于从事农业的人群而言的，游牧民逐水草而居，一户一户分散在大草原上，最多一个地方驻扎两三个月，就又搬迁到别的牧场去了。要是哪家有人出外读书，或是长时间出远门，回来要找到自己的家，那可不是一件容易的事情。内地有些来自藏北草原的学生，学校放假，他们在考虑回不回去时就颇费踌躇。除去长途跋涉的辛苦外，回到那片大草原，他上哪里去寻找自己的家？数百公里内，他得一步步去寻找，等到找到家时，可能假期都过了。因此，在藏北和阿里问地名是令人迷惘的事情，甚至问远近也是让人挺为难的问题，他们只能用自己走路要多少时间来回答距离，至于你用车行走多久多远，那完全是另一码事。
只是近年有的牧区，牧民有了定居点，也许政府为了工作之便给取了村名。但这村名对于与世隔绝的藏民来说却没什么用处，一是没有左邻右舍，一个村庄离另一个村庄动辄上百公里，来往极少，村名是取给外人叫的，不是用于自己叫自己的，没有外人谁还需要村名记得村名？二是他们也极少出远门，既不通邮又不通电话，与外界没有联系，这村名实在派不上什么用场。
与此相反，那些高山大湖受到藏民的崇拜，他们封它为神山圣湖，不远千里前来朝拜。它们不但一个个有自己的名字，还有一个个动人离奇的传说，那些神山圣湖都是能够行走，有着与人类一样世俗感情的神灵。一些藏民还信誓旦旦，说自己真的看到过走动的山，说起来还活灵活现。藏民都知道哪一座山与哪一座山是夫妻，哪一座山是情人，哪一座山又是儿女，大家坚信不疑。
藏民相信万物有灵，就连山川河流都成了神的化身。他们需要神来相伴漫长的游牧生涯。当他们一日日独自面对天空和大地，他们就幻想神灵。这种幻想，当我一个人面对珠穆朗玛峰绒布冰川时，空无一人的大峡谷让我心生巨大恐怖。那些巨大的山石突然之间像有了生命，幻化出某种魔幻的力量和错觉，我体会到了神的由来。那实在是对神秘不可知的大自然的恐怖和崇拜使然。在我的幻觉里，竟还有活生生的人出现在大峡谷中。
路面泥泞不堪，小车在坑坑洼洼中颠