Chapter 18 Echoes of the Three Jin Lands

After getting off the train from Beiping to Datong, Lin Huiyin and others were stunned.Is this Xijing, the accompanying capital of the Liao and Jin dynasties? Looking out from the railway station square, there are not many decent buildings, most of them are cave-style bungalows, full of dilapidated walls, like a pile of old clothes thrown there randomly.There was not a tree in the street, and the dust swirled and rushed here and there. There are many camel gangs gathered in the station square. This is the first time Lin Huiyin saw large herds of camels. Hundreds of camels, double-humped and single-humped, ocher and white, poured in in groups. , Teams drove past.The sky was low, the camels were tall and proud, and the huge iron bells under their necks rang desolately and solemnly in the setting sun of September.This large group of camels always reminds people of the ancient and profound, the lonely smoke in the desert and the sunset on the long river. This scene seems to be an ancient song from a distant age.

Lin Huiyin was fascinated and stood there in a daze. Liang Sicheng, Liu Dunzhen and Mo Zongjiang, however, were coughing while holding their noses due to the strong smell of camel excrement. Liang Sicheng urged: "Hurry up and find a hotel." They searched along the dusty streets.In such a big Datong city, I couldn't find a hotel where I could live.Most of the streets are hostels like chariot and horse shops, and all they see are camel travelers in sheepskin suits, squatting in groups at the door of the shop, holding huge coarse porcelain blue flower bowls, snoring and drinking. Corn porridge, steaming from their bald heads.

Wherever Lin Huiyin went, he caused a commotion among camel passengers. Liu Dunzhen jokingly said: "It is true that the tiller forgets his plow, and the hoe forgets his hoe. He comes and returns with resentment and anger, but just sit and watch Luofu!" But soon they will not be happy. It was almost time to light the lanterns, and they almost ran all over Datong City, but they couldn't find a place to stay. The four of them had to turn back to the train station. Liang Sicheng, who had a sore back and back, said with a bitter face, "It seems that we have to stay at the train station."

Into the waiting hall, a miracle happened. Suddenly someone shouted: "Isn't this Liang Sicheng?" Liang Sicheng and Lin Huiyin turned around in surprise, and a big man in a railway uniform stood in front of them.The two shouted in surprise together: "Big Liu, why are you here?" Big man Liu said, "I should ask you this." Liang Sicheng said: "We came to inspect the ancient buildings and traveled all over Datong City, but we couldn't even find a place to live." Lin Huiyin introduced to Liu Dunzhen and Mo Zongjiang: "This is Lao Liu, our classmate at the University of Pennsylvania in the United States. He studied railways. It seems that we don't need to squat at the station tonight."

Old Liu laughed loudly: "I, the station master, can let you sit at the station? Go, go to my house." When they arrived at Lao Liu's house, they had a comfortable dinner.Naked oatmeal fried yam eggs, and yellow cake. Lao Liu said: "Datong is a gray place where there are yam eggs all year round. It's a shame that I can't entertain my old classmates with good things." Everyone said again and again: "It's delicious." That night, Mo Zongjiang's stomach swelled like a drum, and he ran to the toilet several times. Lin Huiyin said: "It's like this after eating too much oatmeal. I really forgot to tell you."

Early the next morning, Lao Liu Nonglai got into an open jeep and accompanied them to Yungang. More than 30 miles west of Datong City is the Yungang Grottoes.The grottoes are excavated on the north cliff of Wuzhou Mountain, facing the Wulie River, and more than 50 caves are lined up. This grotto was excavated in the early years of peace of Emperor Wencheng of the Northern Wei Dynasty (AD 460). It is one of the three famous grottoes at home and abroad together with the Longmen Grottoes in Luoyang in the northern part of the Central Plains and the Mogao Grottoes in Dunhuang in the Northwest Plateau.

According to the "Book of Wei Shi Lao Zhi", during the Heping period of the Northern Wei Dynasty (460-465 AD), presided over by Tan Yao, an eminent monk at that time, five grottoes were excavated in Wuzhou Sai, a suburb of the capital, namely Yungang Caves 16 to 20, later known as "Tan Yao Five Caves".It is the earliest five caves in Yungang Grottoes.The other caves were completed before the capital was moved to Luoyang in the 19th year of Taihe in the Northern Wei Dynasty (AD 495).Its main caverns were built over about forty years.Li Daoyuan, a geographer of the Northern Wei Dynasty, wrote in "Shui Jing Zhu · Luo Shui": "The stone was cut to open the mountain, because of the rock structure, the real appearance is huge, and the world law hopes. The mountain hall and the water hall, the smoke temple faces each other, and the Lin Yuan Jin Mirror, eye-catching new view." So that future generations can have a glimpse of the grand occasion at that time.

The excavation of the Yungang Grottoes did not rely on natural caves, but entirely by artificially digging mountains and digging holes.They were completely stunned by the majestic beauty.Walking into Tanyao Five Caves, the plane is horseshoe-shaped, and the top of the curved hole is in the shape of a thatched hut built by ascetic monks. The main Buddha occupies most of the space in the cave. You have to get a glimpse of the true face, the main Buddha statue is towering, majestic and tall, giving people the feeling of supreme dignity. Lao Liu said: "Look carefully at these five Buddha statues. They were carved by monk Tan Yao to please the rulers at that time and imitate the real faces of the five emperors of the Northern Wei Dynasty. They were made for the emperor in the name of Buddha statues." In fact, it seems that the monks are not all empty-handed! If you can flatter your ass, you can be regarded as a master."

Lin Huiyin was intoxicated by art, as if she had entered that ancient age, and the stone statues in front of her came alive, as if hearing them reciting the "Avatamsaka Sutra", as if seeing them happily narrating a story about Buddha Jataka, as if I heard them playing wonderful fairy music with panxiao, pipa and flute. In 1500, there was no trace of the fence built by the years. Every stone here is alive vigorously, as if you can hear the sound of blood flowing in their blood vessels, as if you can feel their body temperature, breathing and heartbeat.However, it is not Sakyamuni who is alive, but the history as tenacious as a stone, the nameless Tai Shigongs who carved this history on the sandstone of the Yungang Series in the Jurassic Period.

None of them left their names. Perhaps they came from Liangzhou, where bones lay on the road, from the desert beyond the Great Wall, and from the rugged ancient road in Chang'an.The wrinkles on the old mason's forehead are like the texture of rocks, and the strong arms of the young mason seem to be able to hold up a mountain. Thousands of them gather here, swallowing the long and long-lasting misery like the Yellow River, and carving silently. years. Lin Huiyin seemed to hear the overwhelming roar of stone chiseling, and saw the sparks of iron brazing on the stone.That sound made the blood of the entire Wuzhou Mountain rise sharply, and made a Wulie River tumbling with tears; that sound was magnified many times on the cliff of history, and time could not wear them down.

When the grottoes were carved, the skinny survivors prostrated themselves on the ground, worshiping the gods shaped by their hands.The Wulie River has dried up, and the river bed is full of bare bones. This is the price of beauty. Long before the birth of Michelangelo, the father of Western sculpture, the lives of these unknown artists lived on this Yungang sandstone, and they lived in this flesh and blood stone.The soul of the stone is always awake, and they want to guard each dream for thousands of years. Lin Huiyin couldn't help covering his face and weeping. They watched a Yungang Grottoes for three days and made many sketches and rubbings.Then, they inspected Huayan Temple and Shanhua Temple, the giant temples in the Liao and Jin Dynasties.After the work was over, Liang Sicheng and Mo Zongjiang went to Ying County to inspect the wooden pagoda, and Lin Huiyin and Liu Dunzhen returned to Beiping to sort out the materials. Summer of 1934. Lin Huiyin and Liang Sicheng came to Fenyang in the Luliang Mountains of Shanxi Province after their investigation of the Yungang Grottoes in September last year. They originally planned to go to Beidaihe for vacation. Before leaving, Fei Zhengqing and his wife Fei Weimei told them that American missionary friend Hammer bought a villa outside Fenyang City, Shanxi. close, so they went together. The villa bought by an American friend is in the Yudao River outside Fenyang City, where there is a "Sacred Horse Spring" that provides power for dozens of mills along the river. Now these abandoned mills are bought by Americans who like nature. Converted into a holiday villa. "Shenquan Spring" is the most beautiful place at the foot of Luliang Mountain. Since Song Taizong's horse kicked out the sweet spring to save the thirsty army, it has been flowing for thousands of years.Here, the water is green and the mountains are green, and the climate is pleasant. Living by the water, it is not interesting.Lin Huiyin told Fei Weimei that this place has the flavor of Qisejia Liushui Villa. They lived in Fenyang for three days and visited the Xinghua Village Winery. Lin Huiyin told Fei Zhengqing and Fei Weimei that winemaking here began in the Northern Wei Dynasty and has a history of more than 1,500 years. Yes, the shepherd boy is famous for "Xinghua Village".Fei Zhengqing leaned on the stone tablet next to the Gujing Pavilion and sighed that this winery was more than ten centuries earlier than the history of the United States.They also saw ancient buildings such as "Wenfeng Pagoda", "Nanxun Building" and "Taifu Temple" in Fenyang. In their residence, there are several small temples on the cliffs on both sides of the Yudao River, and a real temple on the east cliff, which is famous for its beautiful scenery.The Longtian Temple on the West Cliff is also known as the Sunset Temple, and Paoma Spring has enjoyed its thousands of years of fireworks.Lin Huiyin discovered from the inscription in the twelfth year of Qianlong that Longtian was Jiexiu Ling Jiahou. In the first year of Emperor Hui of Jin Yongxing (304 A.D.), Liu Yuanhai captured Jiexiu. For more than 300 miles from Fenyang to Hongdong, the Tongpu Railway was under construction, and many sections of the road were destroyed.They rented three donkey carts in the local area. It was the first time for Fei Zhengqing and Fei Weimei to ride in such a cart.They each wore a white sun hat. Lin Huiyin wore white trousers and a sapphire blue shirt. His appearance was neat and chic, which contrasted sharply with Liang Sicheng's khaki cloth clothing. The donkey cart was bouncing on the uneven dirt road in the countryside.The handlebars are all young juniors, and they crack a string of firecrackers on the heads of the animals from time to time.The donkey snorted and ran briskly on all fours. The wind that squeezed from the crop field brushed their cheeks with refreshment.The handlebars sang a little tune one by one: Front handlebar lead: Kid's egg goes down to the river to wash clothes, Kneel down on that rock. The rear handlebar type should say: Little dear—— Front lead: Small hands red to small hands white, Raise your hairy eyes and shake off the pigtails. The latter should be summed with: Little dear—— Front lead: Little dear, come little love, You turn away that good face. The latter should be summed with: If you tell us to drop it, we will drop it, You have to show that good guy a good face. Lin Huiyin, Liang Sicheng, and Fei Weimei all responded involuntarily: Little dear—— The earthy ballads infected them.In this simple and unsophisticated folk customs, they were so drunk as if they drank the fine wine of Xinghua Village. The iron wheels of the donkey cart ran over Xiaoyi-Jiexiu-Huo County-Hongdong. They walked and watched all the way, and the ancient monuments of Kaiyuan, Tiewa Temple, Qianfo Cliff, the lobby of the State Department and other monuments moved them.When they arrived in Hongdong, Lin Huiyin and the others couldn't take care of rest, so they went to pay a visit to the famous Hongdong Dahuaishu and Susan Prison. Lin Huiyin told Fei Zhengqing and Fei Weimei that the Dahuaishu was built by Jin to Hebei, Lu and Henan during the Hongwu period of the Ming Dynasty. The gathering places of immigrants from China, Jiangsu, Anhui and other places, the roots of half of China are here.In Susan Prison, Lin Huiyin also told the two of them the story of the Peking opera "Yutangchun", which also deeply moved them. Early the next morning, they went to the south foot of Mount Huo in the northeast of the county to inspect Guangsheng Temple. Hongdong County is about 40 miles away from Guangsheng Temple.Although the first 20 miles are plains, the terrain is getting higher and the road hangs in the valley.Lin Huiyin looked up and saw that there were green seedlings all over the left and right earth cliffs, a line of blue sky above his head, and the scorching sun was in the sky, so he felt really boring.The last 20 miles gradually slope, winding up and down, straight up to the high hill, and then looking back at the low farmhouse, it is very poetic and picturesque.When approaching Guangsheng Temple, there is another plain, full of stone flakes, like a dry riverbed, almost not a single thatch grows, but the atmosphere is cheerful and grand, showing the rough character of the northern scenery. Guangsheng Temple was built in the first year of Jianhe in the Eastern Han Dynasty (AD 147). It was rebuilt in the Tang, Song, and Yuan dynasties, and it was repaired in the Ming and Qing dynasties. It is divided into two temples and three water temples.They started from Huoquan and entered Guangshengxia Temple. This is a very unique building in the Yuan Dynasty. The front hall has five bays and is in the style of hanging mountains. There are only two pillars in the hall. The frame has a peculiar structure.Liang Sicheng shouted, amazed. Guangsheng Shangsi is on the top of Huoshan Mountain.They climbed up the stairs and entered Amitabha Hall, Daxiong Hall, Guanyin Hall, and Dizang Hall through the mountain gate. What attracted them most was the Pilu Hall. A successful example of architectural art in the Yuan Dynasty.Inside the mountain gate is the pagoda courtyard, in which the flying rainbow stands. The pagoda body is inlaid with glazed glass, in an octagonal shape, with thirteen levels, and each floor has eaves.They climbed up the overturned steps in the tower, and Fairbank let out exclamations from time to time. Lin Huiyin said to Fei Zhengqing and Fei Weimei: "After Buddhism came to China, judging from the astrology, the form of the pagoda was chosen, because in ancient Chinese cultural thought, the understanding of space is the dialectical unity of space and entity. The towering image, on the one hand, has a commemorative color, showing the sublime in overwhelming people's hearts. The towers of the Yuan Dynasty have a strong human touch, which is reflected in the decoration of colors and patterns, and bases art on a In terms of religious emotion, it has a deep piety, and it is precisely because of this that art is willing to go hand in hand with religion." Lin Huiyin and Liang Sicheng carefully measured and mapped the dimensions of each part of the ancient pagoda, took photos with their Leica cameras, and made detailed sketches. Liang Sicheng, after his leg was damaged in a car accident, the bones overlapped and joined together. His right leg was shortened. Not only was his leg a little lame, but his spine was bent and his back was weak. He wore a steel vest to support his spine. Although it is inconvenient to move, it can still crawl on roofs and rafters, overcoming unbearable difficulties for ordinary people. Leaving Hongdong, Lin Huiyin and his party went to Jinci by Wenshui. Jinci is located at the foot of Xuanweng Mountain in the southwest of Taiyuan City, and is the birthplace of Jinshui.This building complex was built before the Northern Wei Dynasty in memory of Shu Yu, the second son of King Wu of Zhou.Shuyu granted the Tang Dynasty, his son Xie changed the country name because of Jinshui, and later generations took the country name as the name of the shrine.The Jin Temple was repaired and changed repeatedly. During the reign of Tiansheng in the Northern Song Dynasty, Tang Shuyu was named the King of Fendong, and a large-scale Notre Dame Hall was built for his mother. Jinci Temple is a bustling place. Compared with other temples, there are more fireworks in the world. There are many tourists. Most of them are young men and women who come to visit.They passed the water mirror and saw the Uonuma Flying Beam and the Temple of Our Lady.Liang Sicheng was very interested in the structure and shape of the Notre Dame Hall in the Song Dynasty, saying that it was an excellent model for creating French style.Fei Weimei, on the other hand, praised the exquisite structure of the stone bridge on the Yuquan Flying Beam, which reflects the quiet and tidy aesthetic taste of the oriental people. Then, they also looked at the lotus platform, Laojun Cave, Wenchang Palace, Nanlaoquan and other landscapes. Out of the gate, they were attracted by a lively yelling.Lin Huiyin said: "If you don't eat sliced ​​noodles, you don't count as going to Taiyuan. Let's eat a bowl of sliced ​​noodles." There are about a dozen noodle stalls lined up under the open air, with a blue stove and an iron pot.There are many kinds of noodles, including ramen noodles and fish noodles, and steam is steaming on each pot.The stall selling sliced ​​noodles was crowded with the most people, and the noodle worker was a burly man. He put a piece of flexible dough on his bald head, and held a sharp knife in each hand. The cold light was flying above his head, and the dough flakes flew like whitebait. into a pot about ten feet away from him. Fei Weimei was stunned by this performance. Lin Huiyin said: "Chinese food is an art and a culture, which embodies the spirit and will of people everywhere." In the afternoon, they went to see Yongzuo Temple. The temple is located in the southern suburbs of Taiyuan, and the twin towers standing side by side can be seen from a distance.The locals call it the Twin Towers Temple.The Shuangta Temple was built during the Wanli period of the Ming Dynasty. It was built by the eminent monk Fodeng under the imperial edict. The two pagodas are named "Wenxuan". They are both brick pagodas.Although Yongzuo Temple is close to the bustling city, it is very secluded. Most of the people who come here are farmers from the countryside who offer incense, and there is a donkey tied to the gate. Sitting down in Guanyinlian, Fei Zhengqing saw many children's shoes there, and asked Lin Huiyin what he meant in puzzlement. Lin Huiyin smiled and did not answer, and led them to climb to the top of the tower.Climbing high and looking far away, you can have a panoramic view of Wanjia Xiayan.Lin Huiyin asked: "Fairbank, what did you see?" Fairbank said: "I think of a poem by Du Fu, a great poet in your country: The Qin Mountains are suddenly broken, and the Wei and Wei cannot be sought. Looking down but looking at it, how can you distinguish the Huangzhou?" Lin Huiyin said: "Yes, the concept of religious birth is much indifferent compared with the sense of boundlessness in history. The tower used to climb high is an image of fate, which is contradictory to Buddhist Buddhism. It is incompatible with secularism. But more and more indissoluble bonds are formed, in the western churches, the kind of dome makes people feel very close to God, but when viewed from this tower, the Buddha is getting farther and farther away from people." When she got down to the bottom of the pagoda, she told Fairbank that the children's shoes that Avalokitesvara sat on were a token given to Avalokitesvara by a Chinese woman for her son. This is a very deep and very simple mystery.