Chapter 32 Thirty-two, the West Lake under the tip of the tongue

The most beautiful thing in Hangzhou is the West Lake. You can’t visit the West Lake without going to the outer building to taste sweet and sour fish. The West Lake in spring is indeed beautiful.When you come to the bank of the West Lake, follow the lakeside avenue with jagged green willows, pass the Wanghu Tower, go up the Broken Bridge, walk through the Baidi, pass the Pinghu Qiuyue, and you will see the building outside the building next to the lonely mountain and leisurely facing the lake. It is the former residence of Xiling Yinshe and Yu Quyuan, as well as the Qiujin Wind and Rain Pavilion. After going around, you will come to Yuemiao and Quyuan Fenghe... The outstanding buildings outside the building are just in line with the remnant snow on the broken bridge, the moon reflected in the Three Pools, the spring dawn on the Su Causeway, etc. Several famous scenic spots echo each other, which can be described as a unique scenery.The mountain light is quiet against the misty waves, and the shadow of the tower is clear and the water is in the moonlight.Although tourists come to visit the paradise on earth, the anticipation of the deliciousness of heaven is also a kind of provocation—if you can enjoy the scenery of lakes and mountains outside the window, the delicacies of the world and the poems handed down from generation to generation in such a wonderful place , That's a worthwhile trip to the West Lake!It is said that in the building outside the building, there is a "Ten Views Banquet" with the theme of "Paradise West Lake". Ten scenic spots of the West Lake, such as the Remnant Snow on the Broken Bridge, the Three Pools Reflecting the Moon, and the Spring Dawn on the Su Causeway, are cooked into delicacies, allowing people to enjoy the beauty of the West Lake on their tongues. On, hidden in thoughts!

In the early 1980s, I traveled to Jiangsu and Zhejiang with my newlywed wife in early spring and February, and ate sweet and sour fish for the first time in Lou Wai Lou by the West Lake.We were facing the lake by the window, first ordered a cup of Longjing, and slowly ordered.When the dishes were served, I remembered that catkins floated in from the window at the same time as I was eating. It was fresh and pleasant, and left a deep impression on me.At that time, there were not as many tourists as there are now, and most of the diners looked calm and relaxed. The building outside the building was only a two-story building with green tiles and cornices, and the chefs were also very attentive in cooking.West Lake grass carp is specially raised in the pool next to the stairs in the hall. It is more than one foot long and weighs one or two catties. Guests can choose which one to catch.After some cleaning, fry in oil pan for three to two minutes, pour over vinegar and gravy, the mouth and tail of the fish are still moving slightly when served, the meat is naturally very delicious and tender, sweet and sour, unique.It's just that such an approach is inevitably a bit cruel.

Later, I went to taste the West Lake vinegar fish and found that there had been a change.Generally, live fish is no longer put directly into the pot, but the slaughtered and washed fish body is cut into two pieces, the fish bones are removed, boiled in clear water, thickened with just the right amount of sweet and sour sauce, and covered with spliced ​​heads, tails, and styles. The body of the fish exudes a clear and elegant luster like sandalwood.Because the fish has been starved for two days in the clear water pool, and the stomach and intestines have been vomited clean, so not only does it not have the slightest muddy smell, but there is a scent of crab meat in a trance.The characteristic of this dish is that it does not use oil, but only boiled water with seasoning.The cooking time is very strict, only three or four minutes, until the pectoral fins of the fish stand up, and the degree of fish meat is severed, paying attention to its freshness and original taste.Look at the inscription hanging on the wall of the store, and you will know that it is no wonder that so many cultural figures and celebrities from all walks of life flock to it.

Zhejiang cuisine is full of Jiangnan characteristics. The materials used pay attention to varieties and seasons, and they are meticulous, special and fresh, so as to fully reflect the tenderness and crispness of the ingredients.Its three fresh sea cucumbers can be said to be famous all over the world.In the Loutang Restaurant, which specializes in Hangzhou-style dishes, in addition to West Lake Vinegar Fish, the main famous dishes include Song Sao Fish Soup, Longjing Shrimp, Dongpo Meat, Ringing Bell, Beggar’s Chicken... Dishes such as Xishi tongue , silver rolls, three delicacies siu mai, shrimp meat siu mai, cat ears and so on.

When it comes to the dishes by the West Lake, Hangzhou people have their own opinions.It is said that more than a hundred years ago, a down-and-out scholar surnamed Hong came from his hometown of Shaoxing to open a small shop next to the temple at the foot of Gushan Mountain. He cooked fresh West Lake fish and shrimp into special dishes for tourists.Scholars used the ink in their stomachs to mix the historical sites and legends spread in the West Lake into their recipes. They worked hard on materials, colors, tastes, and characteristics to create special dishes full of literati flavor, which gradually gained fame.The sweet and sour fish is naturally the first signature dish by the lake, and it is the finishing touch.Some people say that the real creator of West Lake Vinegar Fish is a "sister-in-law Song" who is loved by literati. "Sweet and sour tile fish" is the original model of West Lake vinegar fish.There is also West Lake water shield soup. Zhang Han of the Jin Dynasty saw the autumn wind blowing and missed the delicious sea bass and water shield in his hometown. He simply abandoned his official position and returned to his hometown.The savory taste of Mrs. Song's fish soup, shredded bass and bamboo shoots and the smoke of shredded ham blend seamlessly, making people unable to stop eating. "Skirts and clogs come together to buy drunk, and go up to the terrace in the shadow of the green sun; how many lake boats in front of the door, half come back from the Three Pools Reflecting the Moon. Why bother to look for Zhang Hanyu, the fishy flavor is about the West Lake; thanks to your reconciliation hand, I know the Song Dynasty back then Sister-in-law?" Most of the diners are literati, and the delicacy of West Lake is famous all over the world along with their poems.

Sour can remove the fishy smell, and spicy can suppress the formation. For people in Jiangsu, Zhejiang and Shanghai, sweetness is the most light and delicate way to maintain many miscellaneous flavors in life.I went around Guangxi last autumn and found that all fish dishes there have to put tomatoes, which are sour and spicy.I am a sweet and spicy intolerant.Over the years, I have imitated West Lake vinegar fish at home, but it has not been successful.The problem is not that the fish is sliced ​​and cut, nor is it that you put water into the pot, add sugar, salt, black vinegar, soy sauce, and pepper to boil, and then add cornstarch to thicken it... The main problem is that the fish is boiled in water, and it is difficult to get out of the pot when it is tender.After several failures, I finally figured out a way to maintain the fish shape by putting the plates into the water together.And use the original soup to cook the juice, no need to add oil, especially fresh and refreshing.However, there is one condition that cannot be easily achieved. Grass carp must be alive, and the length of the grass carp should be just right. If it is too big, the meat will be too old. It is best to put it in clean water and starve it for three or two days to make the fish meat tighten.

Whether you are by the West Lake or not, if you want to taste the authentic West Lake Vinegar Fish, you have to go to some famous Hangzhou restaurants.But for ordinary outsiders, the only catchy names are "Louwailou" next to Gushan Mountain and "Tianwaitian" at Lingyin Temple. After all, these two restaurants have a long history and reputation, and the dishes are sure to be good. It is the top grade of Hangzhou cuisine.If you ask the locals in Hangzhou where the West Lake vinegar fish is the most authentic, they may tell you some famous shops like "Tianxianglou", "Xinbailu", "Wang Runxing", "Zhang Shengji", "Kuiyuanguan" and so on. Consumption is not low.It is said that the favorite place for Hangzhou locals to go is "grandmother's house".The Hangbang cuisine there is not only authentic but also relatively cheap, but it’s the same as the “Zhiweiguan” next to the Red Oak Mountain Villa over Huagang Guanyu, but there are too many people, so you have to be prepared to wait in a long line.

In the deep spring of this year, my wife and I will go to Hangzhou again, and then go to Su, Baier Causeway and Gushan Lingyin Temple on the West Lake to enjoy the lake and mountains.The fireworks are in March, and the drizzle is like silk.Because we were afraid of crowds, we entered the building outside the building at about 10:30 in the morning, but there were still too many people.After finally getting the menu, I ordered a top-quality sweet and sour fish, but the price was shockingly high: 198 yuan per catty.I intend to explore the flavor of the "extreme" West Lake vinegar fish.At first I thought that grass carp was also used as ingredients, but unexpectedly, before placing an order, the chef showed us a fish in a small bucket. ), and like the famous Songjiang four-gill perch.The waitress at the side said that the fish weighed 600 grams, or 2 taels per catty, which meant that the value was around 240 yuan.Of course, I also ordered Dongpo meat dripping with oil, Mrs. Song’s fish soup, and water shield soup, plus a dessert Dongpo crisp.The sweet-and-sour fish was finally served, split in two pieces, lying flat on a large oval blue and white plate, poured with crystal clear amber sugar juice, which seemed to arouse people's appetite.Stretch out your chopsticks and put a small piece into your mouth, a sweet and sour feeling permeates the tongue coating instantly, then wrap it lightly with your tongue, taste it, um, the taste is the same as before, it is fresh, smooth and pure without age... The lack of a thorn is probably the difference between this "superior" fish and ordinary West Lake grass carp. The price of the latter is only one-third of the former.

That night, we went up to the Su Causeway from Fenghe in Quyuan, walked to Huagang Watching Fish in the gentle breeze of the willows, and happened to stop by the red oak villa where the neon lights flashed in the twilight to taste the lakeside delicacies .Because I once wrote an old sentence of "The winding bridge and the fine willows recall the gracefulness, and the wine tours in front of the red oak building", so I am particularly tempted by the curved bridges along the corridors and the carved windows with green tiles.Unexpectedly, after entering the brightly lit "Zhiweiguan", I was so scared that I ran out immediately. In addition to the people waiting for food in the entrance hall, there was also a long queue outside. I really don't know where there are so many people by the West Lake. The gluttons!We had no choice but to go to the mountain behind the Silk Museum and Yuqian Temple to find a farm restaurant with red lanterns to see what the flavor of the West Lake vinegar fish and Dongpo pork are. He greeted and burned a plate of vegetarian fried new bamboo shoots, a plate of dried cress, and a bowl of mountain mushroom soup.A few dishes are neatly arranged, red, black, green and white, and the colors are quite attractive. They should be fresh and tender, and the original taste should be fresh. Together with two bowls of rice, a hundred yuan bill can handle it.Coming out after dinner, walking on the dimly lit mountain road, I feel very unique.