Chapter 103 food in hangzhou

When I had never been to Hangzhou, I knew that there was a building outside the West Lake. The so-called building outside the building was also a restaurant.It should be considered an old name. The building outside the building has a good name.As soon as you hear it, you have something to do with Hangzhou.This is due to the famous poem in the Southern Song Dynasty: "The green hills outside the mountains, the buildings outside the buildings, when will the West Lake dance and dance stop. The warm wind makes the tourists drunk, and they regard Hangzhou as Bianzhou." In my imagination, there must be buildings outside the buildings. Very dense carved windows.Pushing open one by one, not only can you see the green hills outside the mountains, but you may also see a real and illusory "Riverside Picture at Qingming Festival"; it's just that the characters, scenes, and plots are all transferred to the West Lake.At least in the Southern Song Dynasty, the beautiful scenery of the West Lake with endless singing and dancing was a copy of the richness and prosperity presented in "A Picture of Shanghe During the Qingming Festival".It actually really deceived the dim and drunken eyes of many tourists.

West Lake is a big gold-selling cave in old China.The building outside the building is equivalent to a pair of iron door knockers installed on the selling gold cave.If you want to visit the West Lake, first go to the Louwailou for a drink.Wouldn't it be more enjoyable to travel with a little drunkenness?I think Qingshan is so charming, and I expect Qingshan to see me the same way. In the early 1990s, when Mr. Wang Zengqi was still alive, I often went to Puhuangyu’s house to chat, and heard him talk about the Louwailou in Hangzhou many times.Mr. Wang has been living in Beijing for so many years, but he has been thinking about the land of fish and rice in the south of the Yangtze River.He clearly remembers: In April 1948, he drank water shield soup for the first time in the Louwailou in West Lake, Hangzhou.He hadn't even seen water shield before.In his hometown of Gaoyou, most people don’t know what water shield is.I don't know how the water shield soup that young Wang Zengqi tasted for the first time was made.It is estimated to be stewed with sea bass.Sea bass soup with water shield is one of the three most classic dishes in the south of the Yangtze River. "Thinking of water shield perch" has become a symbol of Chinese local culture.This is a bowl of "cultural soup".

Water shield is a delicate aquatic plant, and is picky about water temperature and quality.But this is not a problem for West Lake.The water in the West Lake is so good. If the water shield cannot be kept alive, then the water shield will also become extinct elsewhere.The water shield in West Lake is definitely a boutique.Even in supermarkets in Beijing, I have seen canned Xihu water shield.The price is very expensive. West Lake should also produce perch. Use water shield from West Lake, sea bass from West Lake, add a few spoonfuls of West Lake water, cook a pot of water shield and sea bass soup, think about what it's like.In particular, you should sit in the building outside the West Lake to drink.Enjoy the shimmering mountains while drinking.Oh, and the lake wind is blowing in through the window...

Those who are close to the water first get the moon.All of this can be done outside the building.It seems that only the building outside the building can do it. Wang Zengqi narrated the scene of dining in the Louwailou in Hangzhou more than 50 years ago, and even mentioned the calligraphy and paintings posted on the wall, as well as the placement of tables and chairs.I can't help guessing: Is it because the old man's memory is so good, or is that bowl of water shield soup—too memorable? He also told me about a famous dish before the liberation of Louwailou: Vinegar Fish with Target.The so-called "targeting" refers to removing the meat from the back of the live grass carp, cutting it into thin slices with a sharp knife, as thin as paper, dipping it in soy sauce, and eating it raw.Similar to how Japanese salmon is eaten. In the spring of 1947, he tasted it in Louwailou and found it to be extremely delicious.Decades later, I have the opportunity to go again and want to order this dish, but it is gone.He sighed lightly: "I don't know if it's because it's a hindrance to hygiene, or the chef doesn't have this skill."

Wang Zengqi is a gourmet and has written many essays on eating and drinking.Generally limited to talking about food and its taste, rarely mentioning the specific restaurant.But there is an exception for the Louwailou in Hangzhou.The name of Lou Wai Lou appeared many times in his articles.And they all use an emphatic tone: I ate such and such a dish in Louwailou, Hangzhou.For fear that others would not know. It seems that the building outside the building is indeed quite capable. When talking about the food in Hangzhou, it seems impossible to bypass Lou Wai Lou.Just like talking about the scenery of Hangzhou, the West Lake cannot be avoided.

The building outside the West Lake uses beautiful scenery to set off the food.Drinking wine can help you enjoy your trip. If you go for a walk on the Broken Bridge, you'd better meet a beauty like a white lady.Even just looking at it from a distance is enough. West Lake, West Lake, when will I be able to realize the dream of contemporary Xu Xian? Girls in Hangzhou, it is best not to wear white skirts in summer.That would make me, a scholar who came from afar, dream about things. Put the restaurant outside the building, don't lean on the railing alone.Aren't you afraid to look silly?

When you come to Hangzhou, do as the Romans do, it is best to drink rice wine.Produced in Shaoxing, add rice, Huadiao, etc.I didn't want to be named on the gold list, and I didn't order the number one scholar's red, but I wanted a small pot of daughter's red——I felt very sexy when I heard the name.It can be seen that I don't love Jiangshan and beautiful people.Lonely people, drinking a cup of Nurhong will not be lonely anymore. If you have wine today and get drunk today, don't let the golden cup empty to the moon.The building outside the building has become my Liaozhai.I got drunk by the West Lake.A costume movie called "Legend of the White Snake" played repeatedly in my mind.

Sigh, when Xu Xian met the white lady, what year was it?Is Lou Wai Lou Restaurant open?Invite them to come in and sit down.Take shelter from the rain, talk, and don't worry about the audience hearing you.Hey, boss, is there a couple package—the one with candlelight?Remember it. The food in Hangzhou is tolerant. Even if you are not used to drinking rice wine, you can still order a good cup of tea.By the way, Wang Zengqi said about the Dragon Well tea he drank by the Hupao Spring: "The real Shifeng Longjing tea buds before the rain, each bud has a flag and a shot, soaked in a glass, the tea leaves can stand upright, float and float. Heavy, the color of the tea is quite light, but the taste is strong, and it penetrates the heart. It’s really good tea! It’s just too expensive. A cup of tea, a piece of ocean, is more expensive than a meal. Shifeng tea is well-deserved, but it can’t run away. It can't taste like this."

Hangzhou people are blessed, they are always the first to drink the freshest Longjing tea.It is confused again with the oldest love.The love between Xu Xian and White Snake.West Lake produces Longjing and love. Just because I am too rich, I don't know how to cherish it.People from Hangzhou even use the best tea leaves to cook.There is a signature dish in the building outside the building, Longjing Shrimp, that is. (I heard from Wang Zengqi that there are people in Hangzhou who use Longjing tea to make dumplings, which can be described as ingenious. He himself even ate a piece of Longjing tea heart chocolate.)

When I first heard the name of the Longjing Shrimp dish, I thought it was a deliberate novelty or a prank.After I tasted it myself, I realized that the tea was not wasted.These prawns smell like they grew up in tea water. Should this be counted as a vegetarian dish, or a cup of "meat tea"? Leifeng Pagoda is the lightning rod of the entire Hangzhou culture.In the West Lake, as soon as I walk on the Broken Bridge, I seem to be the incarnation of Xu Xian; when I see the Leifeng Pagoda, I think of the white lady who was ruthlessly suppressed.Is she completely free?The Leifeng Pagoda was torn down and rebuilt.Once rebuilt, it will inevitably fall down again.We temporarily hid safely under the shadow of the Leifeng Pagoda, relying on the shelter of traditional morality, but couldn't help being curious, and raised our ears to eavesdrop on the lightning and thunder that erupted from the shocking love.Let the storm come more violently, I am not Haiyan, but I am happy to be Haiyan's audience...

Looking at the Leifeng Pagoda, you should eat crabs.Why?Legend has it that the great monk Fahai hid in the shell of a crab.The crab became the submarine that this Mr. Hypocrites smuggled into. On October 21, 1923, Xu Zhimo led Hu Shi and others to swim in the lake, and ordered hairy crabs in the building outside the building: "Look at the reeds in Chuhua, eat crabs in the building outside the building, Ms. Cao is greedy for the moon in willows, we put Move the table to the window, and then you can look at the moon with your pincers: the lake pavilion in the sunset is wonderful; the lake pavilion in the moonlight is even more wonderful.” According to Xu Zhimo's character, he must sympathize with the white lady: "I love to see Lei Feng's very quiet shadow under the moonlight - I will not die when I see that." He himself pursues transcendence like a moth to a flame. worldly love.Zhimo, he is a much braver lover than Xu Xian, and he really met his white lady later: Lu Xiaoman who was married as a woman.But he didn't stop, but worked together with Lu Xiaoman to break the shackles of morality, even if he hit his head badly... Zhimo and Xiaoman divorced respectively, and became friends with Jinlan on October 3, 1926.At the wedding banquet, Liang Qichao, Zhimo's tutor, delivered a speech unceremoniously, severely criticizing the couple: "Young people are often driven by their own feelings, unable to control themselves, and destroying the traditional security. They Falling into the trap that caused them to suffer. This is indeed sad and pitiful..." Liang Qichao, the great enlightener, may not realize that this time, he more or less played the role of Fa Hai.I will always stand on the side of Xu Xian and Bai Suzhen.Standing on the side of Zhimo and Xiaoman. Have a drink in the building outside the building, and use some romantic past events as appetizers.Looking through the window, the West Lake melts into your mind.Su Causeway and Bai Causeway are a pair of chopsticks stretching into the distance.This time, what should I take from this sea bowl? Broken bridge, constantly.There will be new stories happening all the time... When I checked out, I found that the price of vegetables outside the building was higher than other places (such as Qingyuan Building).It seems that it not only sells food and drink, but also sells scenery.But it's still worth it. This is the only one, there is no semicolon.Outside the building outside the building, there is no building anymore.The rest is a vast lake.If you happen to find some painted pillars and carved beams from the shimmering waves, it is definitely nothing else, but the reflection of the building outside the building. Xu Zhimo called himself "a native of Hangzhou" in the article "Ugly West Lake".In Xu Zhimo's era, I really want to know what the building outside the building looked like. "Then let's go to the Louwailou. Unexpectedly, the Louwailou is another sad place! It turns out that the old house on the first floor and the ground floor of the Louwailou is slantingly facing the lake pavilion. Tables, one or two elderly waiters, lively fish and shrimp, smooth water shield, a pot of old years, a plate of salted peanuts, every time I go back to the West Lake, I often sneak away to appreciate this antique, leaning on the railing Looking at the shimmering lake from the shade of willows beside the embankment. Sunny and sunny, rainy and snowy, or rainy and snowy, or the moon is more meaningful when the willows are on the top. Fortunately, it is not noisy, and it is also an exclusive time to go at night Many, while drinking hot wine, casually talking about the scenery on the lake, the fish and shrimp market with the old waiter, there is also an indescribable pleasure.” What makes Xu Zhimo sad is the building outside the building that was originally full of rural charm. , also carried out "fine decoration", "This time even the building outside the building has changed! The address has not been moved, but a three-story foreign-style facade with a roof has been rebuilt. The new paint is so bright that you can see it from the lake. Upstairs, the electric fan is running rapidly. The guests are crowded, and the waiter has also changed and put on the servant's robe. It turns out that the old friend is no longer visible, and there is no leisure time! We have no choice but to move one. The table ate something by the side of the road downstairs, and sure enough, even the side dishes have changed, which is really sad." After so many years, the building outside the building is still changing.Carved wooden windows should be replaced with plastic steel windows, right?The plantain fan becomes an electric fan, and then becomes a central air conditioner.Louwailou, if this goes on, it will almost switch to selling Western food.No wonder Wang Zengqi feels sad that he can no longer eat the traditional dish of fish scallops in vinegar outside the building. This is not the fault of the building outside the building.In fact, West Lake is changing, and Hangzhou is changing. Even the broken bridge where Xu Xian and Bai Suzhen met had already changed.I checked the photos of the broken bridge before the renovation. The bridge body is towering, with dense steps on both sides. There seems to be a stone archway in the center of the bridge, which makes people imagine.But in 1923, "major surgery" was performed on the broken bridge: "The broken bridge is at the north end of Baidi, and it is the traffic road between the outer lake and the back lake - commonly known as Beili Lake, which is the lake in the north of the lonely mountain in the west of Baidi. The foundation of the bridge was old and very high, and the Baidi Auto Road was built later, and the bridge was leveled and rebuilt, so the bridge body was very low, no different from ordinary bridges, which made the name of the broken bridge untrue. The most famous Bai Causeway in the city was built into a car road, which is convenient for high-ranking officials, gentry, wealthy businessmen and children of rich people, and brings a lot of vulgar atmosphere..." (Wang Tongling's words) In another old photo, it is broken The stone archway on the bridge has been demolished, the steps have been flattened, and a line of telephone poles has even been erected on the side of the bridge railing, extending to the entire Baidi.The broken bridge has been changed into a main road. If Xu Xian is standing by the side of the road, you will not think that he is waiting for the lady who is destined to appear, but you will think that it is a "white collar" waving for a taxi. One day, the story of "Legend of the White Snake" will be lost, right? Louwailou sells big dishes.In fact, Hangzhou snacks have always been quite tasty.According to Mr. Keshi's introduction: In the past, at the end of the streets of Hangzhou, there were many hawkers passing through in the morning and evening, carrying food loads and singing loudly, "Yellow strip cake! Mint cake! Tiaotou cake! Crystal cake! Square cake! Pine nut cake!..." There are more than ten kinds of cakes for breakfast alone, not to mention soy milk dan, fried tofu dan and so on.Hangzhou is really amazing.The so-called food burden is based on peddling. "The tone is melodious, resounding through the alleys, and the sound of selling flowers in the morning in Suzhou and the sound of newspapers in Shanghai in the morning are the same as the local customs..." Suzhou sells flowers, Shanghai sells newspapers, Hangzhou Selling food shows the difference in style between the three cities.Hangzhou is not so keen on "metaphysics", but it attaches great importance to appetite and takes it seriously. Hangzhou snacks also center on West Lake.The old man recalled that there used to be countless teahouses by the lake, such as Erwoxuan, Sanyayuan, Wanghuju, and Xiyuelai on the West Lake pier. They sold tea, dried tea and various snacks, and some also sold raw fish. , Drunken shrimp, water shield, vinegar fish and other special dishes.Among them, the couplets in Sanya Garden make people talk about it with great interest.The first couplet is: the mountains are elegant, the water is elegant, the people are elegant, and the elegance is endless. It can be called three elegance; West Lake snacks, of course, pay attention to freshness, mainly local products.More representative ones such as thorn water chestnut and lotus root starch. West Lake produces sweet lotus root.Grind it into lotus root powder and brew it, which is very touching.One of the "huchun big teahouses" outside Yongjinmen was named Ouxiangju by virtue of the name. "Ouxiangju does not rely on the lake, but builds a pavilion next to the lotus pond. Inside there is a plaque of "cooked tea is fragrant and warm", which is where the essence room is located, that is, the so-called Litangzi. The pavilion is pleasant, like leaning on the threshold in the morning to drink tea, the fragrance is refreshing, just like the deep lotus lotus in a boat. Today, the site of Ouxiangju still exists, and the lotus pond is filled with silt, which is too much for cooking cranes and burning qin." (Chen Xuyu) In 1933, Yu Dafu accompanied his friends along the Qiantang River to Xikou, walked to the mouth of Jiuxi and Shibajian, met a rural tea shop, and ordered a pot of tea and four dishes of pastries. The old man in the shop warmly recommended them to make their own Xihu lotus root powder: "Our products are not only well-known in this province, but also in other provinces, and there are often mail orders. The two gentlemen make a bowl and try it?" Yu Dafu agreed.After drinking it, I felt that it was extraordinary: "It is probably the result of the fresh air in the mountains and the walking of more than ten miles. That bowl of lotus root starch that looks like snot and tastes like silt made us chew a lot. An unexpected umami." After being full and warm, Yu Dafu was more interested in admiring the beauty of water and mountains.Just as he was enjoying himself, he suddenly heard the old man beside his ears calculate the account in the accented Hangzhou dialect: "One tea, four saucers, two powders, five thousand Wen!" Yu Dafu felt that this string of Hangzhou dialect was too poetic, so he turned his head and greeted: "Mr.! Are you doing a lesson review? Or are you writing a poem?" The old man was dumbfounded.Duff quickly explained: "I said, aren't you correcting the class? Three pillars and six bridges, nine brooks and eighteen streams, aren't you matching 'one tea, four saucers, two powders and five thousand coins'?" This is really a couplet made up of two bowls of West Lake lotus root noodles. After reading Yu Dafu's travel notes, I want to drink a bowl of West Lake lotus root noodles prepared by local methods. From the West Lake lotus root powder, I "stream of consciousness" and thought of the actress Hu Die in the 1930s.When Hu Die was in love with Lin Xuehuai, she invited Zheng Zhengqiu, Qin Shouou and others to visit the West Lake.According to Qin Shouou, when he walked to Pinghu Qiuyue, he had a little dispute with Lin Xuehuai, with livid faces, ignoring each other, almost deadlocked.It is estimated that Hu Die came forward to save the siege, please drink lotus root powder. "Fortunately, Pinghu Qiuyue's lotus root noodles are really good. Everyone drank a bowl, and their anger disappeared, and they still started talking and laughing." The atmosphere became active again.Unexpectedly, West Lake lotus root powder has the effect of resolving disputes!Maybe it's because it's delicious. Later, Hu Die and Lin Xuehuai filed for divorce in Shanghai. When Qin Shouou heard about it, he suddenly had a whimsical idea: "I thought of Pinghu Qiuyue going to buy two boxes of lotus root powder, and giving them a box each, so that they can immediately calm down after drinking it, and make up with each other." ; But I shouldn't be lazy, I never went, so the mediation was never successful." I have an old photo of Hu Die's trip to the lake, entitled "Ms. Hu Die on the West Lake (1934)".Hu Die, wearing a cheongsam, is sitting on a small sampan radiantly, surrounded by lotuses.She smiles so sweetly.Let me see it seventy years later, and my heart will be sweet. Beauty, where are you now?Do you still remember that bowl of West Lake lotus root noodles?In Pinghu Qiuyue, taste it with your lover and friends.