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Chapter 92 widow face

Talk about Chinese food 洪烛 1907Words 2018-03-18
The most prosperous place in Nanjing is Xinjiekou.There is a small shop in Xinjiekou, which is famous for selling widow noodles. For the widow, it sounds unlucky, but the business is really good.This is really a skill. The store has a small facade, only enough for a few tables, so it is full of people waiting for seats.In many cases, the queue of customers had to be dragged to the street, and even stretched to the front of KFC tens of meters away.Although everyone is queuing, they look very patient. It seems that it is worthwhile to "stand" in the wind for half an hour just to eat a bowl of noodles from this restaurant.Really no regrets.

This is very ambitious for the Chinese people.The "widows" in Nanjing were not overwhelmed by the KFC uncle from the United States, and they defeated their foreign guns and cannons with millet and rifles.I don't know if similar scenes can be seen in other cities. If a foreigner who doesn't know the inside story passes by, he may think that all the customers queuing up are "babysitters" hired by the boss.Selling noodles with a small profit should also hire "children"?Can you afford it?Can you hold it? Anyone in Nanjing knows the widow noodles in Xinjiekou.This is called word of mouth.Most of the customers are repeat customers, or come here admiringly, which makes it full of popularity.But that's the thing now.Five years ago, no one knew what the widow's face was.

It makes sense to say that the face of the widow is held up.It's just that the so-called "childcare" is not hired by the boss, but voluntarily joined, or captured by the widow.They are the white-collar workers in the office buildings in Xinjiekou and the salespersons in the commercial buildings.Tired of lunch boxes and not used to American fast food, I turned into a small alley in the downtown area and had a bowl of hot noodle soup.But once you eat it, you become addicted.Once spread to ten, ten to hundreds, the widow's face became angry.The name of the widow's noodle also shows its goodness: how homely and friendly it is, and even a little ambiguous like seasoning.It can be seen that when the vulgarity reaches home, it is elegant.

What can't a widow say?Back then, Mu Guiying was still a famous widow.Isn't there a "Twelve Widows Conquering the West" in Peking Opera?The noodles made by the widow must taste good.Widows are actually more humane, and they know the warmth and coldness of human feelings. Today, not only the original small shop is booming, but also more than a dozen new shops have opened in the surrounding alleys, all of which claim to sell widow noodles. When I went back to my hometown in Nanjing, my brother invited me to eat widow noodles.He said you must try it.What is home flavor?This is.It brings back memories of the taste of noodles you ate in childhood.

It was around the Spring Festival, and the two brothers waited for 20 minutes in the cold wind (fortunately, they could chat while waiting), and finally squeezed into the shop.There is a blackboard on the wall, with the names and prices of more than ten kinds of noodles written in chalk.There are shredded pork noodles, beef brisket noodles, vegetable boiled noodles, Yangchun noodles and so on.My brother said that the most authentic one is the belly noodles, so he ordered a bowl for me.He ordered himself another bowl of smoked fish noodles. The pork belly is a Nanjing specialty, and it is difficult to eat in other places. It is dried pork skin and then fried in a pan to make it fluffy and soft, and cut into strips for cooking.When I was a child, the hodgepodge I ate (like the "chaotic stew" in the Northeast) was indispensable.Pi Du Noodles is a topping for noodles after braised skin belly.

How to describe the charm of this bowl of skin belly noodles?All I can say is that it changed my view of noodles (as someone said "a book can change a person's worldview").If the noodles are cooked well, they can really satisfy the gluttony better than any other big dish.I never dare to underestimate noodles again. Widow noodles are not made by widows.I took a closer look, and the boss behind the counter was a man.But it just screamed, and it just got hot.There is nothing you can do if you are not convinced. Sit down and eat a bowl, and you will be convinced.At least this taste can't be tasted anywhere else.

I know a chef who worked in Jinling Hotel, and I asked him which star hotel in Nanjing has the best dishes.He smiled slyly: The real gourmet food is in the folk, and the dishes made in hotels, no matter how high-end, still have form but no spirit.I can't tell whether it's because of the environment or because of human psychology. Widow noodles are a typical folk product.Although it is a snack, it is soaked in the "native taste" of Nanjing.Even the dining environment is the same: rough-painted walls, concrete floor without tiles, low tables, high benches, people seem to have to bend down to enjoy the bowl of fragrant noodle soup.It revives our childhood (it was a poor era) memory of delicious food and even our irrepressible longing.To put it bluntly, it awakens a good appetite in us that has been numbed by affluence.

The real delicacy can only be encountered by chance in the folk.Even if it's just a bowl of noodles.I only know that the more upscale the restaurant, the more unpalatable the noodles.Do not believe you try. Encounter itself is a kind of beauty.Just like when I left home when I was young, I met the widow in my hometown. In Beijing, I met Yun Xiao, a female writer who wrote the novel "Love Express". She happened to be going to Nanjing to participate in a movie, so she asked me what to eat in Nanjing.I thought about it for a while, and I didn’t mention salted duck or duck blood vermicelli soup (these are old famous brands that can be imitated everywhere), but the widow’s noodles in Xinjiekou... This article of mine is just a reference to Her narration was repeated.

Yun Xiao is from Chongqing.She said that the same is true of a shop selling hot and sour noodles in the Jiefangbei area of ​​Chongqing.The small shop is less than ten square meters, but the rent has risen to two hundred thousand a year.Why?Just because the business is so hot.It is almost impossible to count how many bowls are sold in a day.There was a line of people standing in front of the door.Due to the limited seating, most people who buy hot and sour noodles have to squat on the side of the road to eat.I haven't seen that scene, but I can imagine it.Isn't it the same as Nanjing's widow noodles?It seems that the folks in every city have their own food legends.

Yun Xiao said that when she went to Nanjing to film, she must take the time to sneak to Xinjiekou to taste the magic power of the widow's noodles.With such expectations, the widow will not let her down. What I think is: when you go to Chongqing on business, don’t rush to get things done first, but go straight to Jiefangbei, quietly line up behind the line to buy hot and sour noodles, and wait eagerly... Waiting for a bowl of Yangtze River Hot and sour powder cooked in water.
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