Chapter 89 Pastry shop in Beijing

The first time I heard about the pastry shop was because I read Zhou Zuoren's "Tea and Food in Beijing": "Of course we are not very familiar with the situation in Beijing. , I have never bought any delicious dim sum. Could it be that there are no good tea and food in Beijing, or do we have them but we don’t know?... Friends in Beijing, can you tell me two or three pastries that make good dim sum? shop?" Only then did we know that Beijingers call cakes pastries.In fact, Beijing’s cakes are very famous (Zhou Zuoren more or less has a prejudice of southerners), especially the palace cakes. Since Liao and Jin established their capitals in Beijing, all dynasties have excellent products.Refined pastries in the imperial dining room not only constitute an indispensable part of court banquets, but also a holiday gift from the emperor to civil and military officials.The emphasis on cakes is also related to the prevalence of tea drinking after the Tang Dynasty.Therefore, it is also called "tea food".Beijing used to be the capital of Jinzhong. According to "Hailing Collection", the Jurchens "vulgarly valued tea and food. At the beginning of the founding of Aguda, this product was especially favored. If Zhongzhou cakes and baits, there are as many as dozens of kinds, and they are packed in large plates. It is several feet high, and it is also used for giving banquets for guests. A kind of diamond bracelet is the largest." Wang Renxing once studied this way: "During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, there was a person named 'tea food alley' in Beijing's lanes. It is a historical relic of the name of the city square and alley in the capital of the Jin Dynasty, and it can also be seen that Jurchen tea food was popular in the Jin Dynasty. The record of Jurchen tea food in the Jin Dynasty "stacked several feet high on a large plate" can not help but remind people of the 17th A.D. The Manchurian pastry table in the Qing Dynasty in the 19th century. This kind of pastry table, also known as "table sheet", is a unique banquet cake of the Manchus. It is made of various Manchurian pastries. Those on the second floor" ("Guangxu Shuntian Mansion Chronicles").The Jurchen of the Jin Dynasty was the ancestor of the Manchus in the Qing Dynasty. It is not surprising that the tea and food of the Jin Dynasty are so similar to the table sheets of the Qing Dynasty in terms of shape and use.It is estimated that from the Qing Dynasty, pastries were called pastries in Beijing.The shop that mainly manufactures and sells Manchu pastries is called Manzhou Biaobopu.According to the "Monument of Sugar Cakes in the Temple of the Horse" established in the 28th year of Daoguang: Manchurian cakes were "national offerings, gods, sacrifices, ancestral temples and inner court examinations, foreign feasts, and vegetarian offerings in front of the Buddha" in the Qing Dynasty. It is necessary for the people of the banner, the monks and Taoists. The table for the wedding banquet is indispensable for the wedding and funeral sacrifices, and its use is also great." The small pastry actually constituted a non-negligible part of the lives of the emperors, generals, and common people at that time. stars.Believe this is not an exaggeration.

The name of the pastry shop is mostly named after the vegetarian, and the bronzing is engraved on the plaque, which is gentle and elegant, giving people the feeling of cleansing hands with tea and worshiping.For example, Yifuzhai, which Zhou Zuoren specifically mentioned in "Tea and Food in Beijing" to the south of Xisi Archway, is an old shop before the Boxers.In addition, there are Juqingzhai in Dashilan, Qianmen, Ruifangzhai in Dongsibatiaokou, Jinlanzhai in Donghuamen, Guixingzhai in Caishikou, etc., all of which were once well-known and time-honored.Some have been changed to state-run and continue to operate, but most of them exist in name only.I don't know how these store names came from, how elegant and timeless, just sounding like you can feel an ancient and romantic life.Many old people still miss the authentic taste they experienced in the old buns in Beijing.For example, Wang Shixiang’s most memorable Ruifangzhai cream Sachima: “Cream is produced in Inner Mongolia, packed in the belly of a cow and shipped to Beijing. After some fermentation, it has become a kind of cheese. It’s not the same. Not everyone can enjoy this special flavor, but those who love it feel that it’s not enough to enjoy it...” According to him, the Taihuazhai in Beixinqiao is often visited by Mongolian and Tibetan lamas, and Saqima’s cream The taste is exceptionally strong.Guiyingzhai in Di'anmen is close to the Forbidden City. In order to cater for the tastes of the eunuchs, it retains more of the tradition of court dim sum rooms.Saqima, which is also popular, is made in different shops in different ways, so it also attracts customers of different classes.Every bakery shop has its own special skills, otherwise how can it gain a place in the huge city of Beijing?

The pastries in the pastry shop mainly include eight big pieces and eight small pieces.Those who have not experienced it personally cannot say which eight things are incomplete.But I did hear the old people tell me about peach cakes, Zhuangyuan cakes, jujube cakes, wisteria cakes, oil cakes, and mincemeat cakes... They said: the taste at that time was not the food of the same name sold in state-owned stores today. match.The old pastry shop is self-produced and self-sold, and if there is a slight negligence, it will "smash the brand"-and the respective golden signs cannot be established just by advertising.

I deliberately searched for relevant information and made this note for Beijing's Biaobopu—not entirely because I love dim sum.The culture in food is more intriguing.The pastry shop in Beijing does not need me to advertise.What I am worried about is: the newcomers in the future will not know what a pastry shop is.So this entry was kept on paper.