Chapter 9 Chapter 7 Great Choras Peak

The Great Cholas is located northeast of Mont Blanc. Her ridge extends about one kilometer from east to west, with six peaks. East Peak Walker Peak, 4,205 meters above sea level, is the highest point of the Great Cholas Peak. West Peak Wenpa Peak. Kuro Peak. Mount Jareno. Marugreet Peak. Yang Gefeng. Each peak is taller than Mount Fuji. In 1865, Edward Wimper was the first to climb West Peak.And the first person to set foot on the highest point of East Peak was Horace Walker.The peak is named after the man who first set foot there in 1868. The north wall of the Great Cholas is arguably the most famous rock wall in the European Alps.The Walker Side, which is 1,200 meters higher than the Walker Peak, is particularly famous. In 1938, Cassing, Esposito, and Tizzoni climbed it for the first time.

In January 1963, Walter Ponnarty made his first ascent in winter.Of course, he is not alone. It was not until 1979 that Hase Changxiong successfully climbed this rock wall alone in winter for the first time. Fukamachi himself once visited the Great Chora Peak for interviews. She is a majestic and unique mountain. Looking up from the Lascaux Glacier, you will never get tired of seeing the mountain. "no way--" When Fukamachi visited the Gakusuikan, Osamu Mizuno sat on the small round chair inside and said to him. Mizuno also asked Fukamachi to sit on the same chair, and the two faced each other.

Mizuno should be in his sixties, but he has a big frame and thick wrists. He has probably been far away from the difficult mountain, but if he wants to climb the mountain, he still has the physique to stand on the front line. "Because I know that even if I stop Hanyu, he's going to go. Besides, if I say no, I wouldn't have hired him in the first place." On the wall behind Mizuno, there is a wall full of hiking backpacks. There are many imported products from brands such as Millet, but there are also products from domestic manufacturers such as "Grand Choras".

There was a distinct smell in the store, not sweat or the iron of the ice stick.Fukamachi didn't dislike the smell.Smelling and smelling, the mood will calm down. Originally, the investigation was conducted to find out what Hanyu was doing now, but during the interview process, Fukamachi gradually became interested in the man Hanyu Joji himself. The original purpose was to meet Mallory's camera one more time.Fukamachi wanted to get the camera, to see if it was Mallory's camera. For this purpose, it is necessary to investigate where Hanyu Joji is in Nepal.An investigation should have been launched for this.

Of course, the premise is that the Japanese named Bisalu sap I met in Kathmandu is Joji Hanyu.First of all, that man must be Hanyu.Fukamachi confirmed it through the photo Miyagawa gave him. If you just want to find out where Hanyu is, then fly to Nepal again at your own expense to try to find it. However, now there is no guarantee that Hanyu is in Nepal. If he is outside Kathmandu, finding that man without any clues is like looking for a needle in a haystack. Regardless of whether it was Ito, Inoue or Tada, in the end, no one knew about Hanyu's recent situation. But no matter what, he finally found Mizuno along the line.

"Then, in the end, Hanyu left, didn't he—?" "And alone." "Are you alone?" "Yes. Hanyu came from Japan, so he is alone—" On February 10, Hanyu set off from Japan. Set out alone. The only people who knew about this beforehand were Katsuhiko Tada of "Grand Choras" and Osamu Mizuno of Takesuikan. "Most of what happened next is as everyone knows." "Hayu fell down, didn't he?" "yes." It was February 18th when Hanyu left the Lasker Mountain House and climbed up the Walker Rib. On the first day, he climbed the Lebfate Crack.The next day, while climbing the wall above, he fell.

The drop is about fifty meters. Contusions all over. Broken right arm and leg. Three ribs were broken. From there Hanyu escaped with only one arm.Later, this escape trip called Miracle Climbing became the myth of Hanyu Joji. That escape trip made Zhang Gu, who followed up with the challenge, succeed.In some respects, this treacherous ascent is arguably more difficult than the first solo ascent of the Grand Jolas Walker in winter.After that miraculous ascent, even the general media remembered Hanyu's name and listed him alongside Hase. Knowing about Hanyu's accident before anyone else, the one who contacted the rescue team was the team that climbed up Walker's side of Hase three days later.

When Hase's team wanted to climb the rock wall, they noticed that there was no trace of Hanyu anywhere on the rock wall above, so they realized that something happened to Hanyu. "I went alone. When I came back, Hanyu was alone..." Mizuno said this to Fukamachi. Had that dream again. A man climbed alone to the top of a mountain among the stars. Only the back of the man can be seen, if he turns his head—— Maybe he is Joji Hanyu. At first, Fukamachi also thought that the man might be Mallory or Irwin, but at least now, Fukamachi thinks he is Hanyu. A light sleep. Because while I was dreaming, I thought it was a dream.

It was also strange to identify who the man was.This was originally a dream, not reality.Every time what I care about in my mind will be reflected in the dream, and the image and the way I feel will change.The reason why I think this man might be Hanyu is because now, I care about Hanyu's affairs. During the day, I met Mizuno Osamu and talked with him about Hanyu.That probably also affected the dream. Fukamachi also thought that he would probably wake up from this dream soon. Because my thoughts gradually became clearer than the dream itself. Sleep became lighter. Uh-- What is that?

By the way, Mizuno Osamu said it when he was parting. What did he say? Letters—— That's right, it's a letter. "Do you know Hanyu Joji's manuscript?" Mizuno said so. "No, I don't know. What kind of letter?" "A Handbook Recording the Climbing of the Great Choras." "Did you write it after you came back?" "No, I didn't write it after I came back. It was written by Hanyu himself on the rock wall of the Great Cholas Peak while climbing." "Is there such a thing?" "Yes. But not in any magazine."

"Have you seen Mr. Mizuno?" "No. But I know whose possession it is." Fukamachi said to Mizuno: I really want to read that manuscript. "I can't say the person's name now, but I will tell him about you..." Mizuno said so. After Fukamachi bowed his head to Mizuno, he said to him: "By the way, is there anyone who might know about Hanyu's whereabouts—?" "do not know--" Mizuno seemed to be trying to remember something, and looked up at the colorful hiking backpack hanging above his head. "If you were a doctor when you climbed the Himalayas, maybe you would know something." "doctor?" "Doctor Senjiro Okamoto." "Oh, that..." Fukamachi nodded. He knew Senjiro Okamoto. Since the beginning of the Himalayas expedition era of the Japan Mountaineering Association, he has participated in several expeditions as a doctor. He should also have joined the Mount Everest expedition that Hanyu Joji joined in 1985 as a doctor. "Mr. Okamoto is in Osaka." After Mizuno finished speaking, he told Fukamachi Okamoto Senjiro's contact information. I have to contact Okamoto tomorrow—— As Fukamachi thought so, his consciousness was more than half awake from sleep. "But why do you want to know about Hanyu Joji so much?" Mizuno asked him. "Because interested in his way of climbing—" Fukamachi replied: If possible, one day I would like to compile the life story of the man Joji Hanyu into a book.If possible, I would also like to include an exclusive interview with him. Fukamachi concealed the fact that he met Hanyu in Kathmandu, Nepal, and Mallory's camera, but basically, he told the truth. Sleep becomes lighter. Fukamachi himself didn't quite know the order in which he actually talked with Mizuno about the things he remembered just now.But the idea of ​​writing a book may not have been an idea when I came back, but I wanted to do it when I met Hanyu for the first time. Oh, yes. Letters. The moment I remembered the letter, my thoughts drifted from the dream to the letter. Only fragmentary images of Everest have emerged in my mind. However, before fully waking up, Fukamachi wanted to watch the scene of the man marching towards the summit of Mount Everest one more time. I should have something to say to that man. don't leave me- No, besides that, there should be other things that must be said. what is it then? Kayoko—— By the way, it's Kayoko. Don't take Kayoko away from me— Consciousness suddenly became hazy, and in an instant, thoughts were sucked into sleep again. man standing. Looking directly at Fukamachi. A familiar face. The face of a man who is impossible to forget. Increase the position of Dianming—— That face stared at Fukamachi with mournful eyes. His lips moved— Feel sorry…… Noriaki Kakura said so. Oh no. That's not what I want to remember. wrong. Suddenly regaining consciousness, Fukamachi lay on his back on the bed and opened his eyes in the darkness. Looking up at the pitch-black ceiling. This is a cramped room in a business hotel. The body lying on the bed felt sticky from the sticky sweat. Still wearing clothes. Saying goodbye to Mizuno, he went back to his room and fell asleep while lying on his back on the bed. So hot. The air conditioner was not on. There is an electronic clock next to his head.The numerals showing the hour on the clock face glow blue phosphorescent in the dark. two o'clock in the morning— Fukamachi sat up and sighed. "Feel sorry……" Fukamachi clearly remembered Kakura Noriaki's expression at that time and the cadence of that sentence. The sentence of adding positions is the reason why I made up my mind to go to Mount Everest this time. When Kakura invites him to drink, Fukamachi knows what that means. He thought to himself that he could finally relax now. Two years ago—the autumn of 1991. The two went to drink. The location is an izakaya in Shinjuku. We talked about climbing mountains. The topic is the mountains we climbed together before, with my friends.When I went to climb Manaslu Peak ten years ago, I met Jiacang.Jiacang served as a luggage bearer in that expedition.When drinking with Kudo and the others in Tokyo, if he has time, he will also show up. Kacang and Fukamachi graduated from the same university, and they also have common topics. In the closed organization of the mountaineering team, they often chat. The two are the same age, and they even fall in love with the same woman. After changing the place to renew the stall and entering the second store, Jiacang continued to talk about mountain climbing. Jiacang has not mentioned that matter for a long time. Fukamachi's words became less and relatively, only Kakura became chatty. No matter how much they drank, neither of them was drunk. When it was time for the last order—— "It doesn't matter what you say." Fukamachi said. Jiacang, who was originally chatty, shut his mouth and lowered his head. "Are you dating Kayoko?" Even when Fukamachi said so, Kakura didn't look up. After a long silence, Jiacang finally raised his head. Kakura stared at Fukamachi and lowered his head. "Feel sorry……" In the dark, Fukamachi remembered what happened at that time. Kayoko Segawa—— Before that, the woman who dated Fukamachi for three years. She is the art designer who accepts the case work. Design magazine feature pages, sometimes draw illustrations, and also take on editorial work.She has her own desk in the editorial department of Qingmeishe, a publishing house, where she works exclusively and enjoys almost the same treatment as a full-time employee. Fukamachi met Kayoko when she was working for Aobisha's monthly magazine "Travel and Accommodation". At that time, Kayoko was twenty-nine years old and Fukamachi was thirty-four years old. She is a straight-forward woman who loves to climb mountains.Although she does not climb rocks, she has traveled all over the main peaks of the Northern and Southern Alps in Japan. Her eyes are rather big, her face is a bit thin, and she hardly uses makeup. When we first met, Fukamachi thought she was intellectually beautiful, but she was an iceberg beauty.Her businesslike attitude gave people a cold impression, but that was a matter of opinion.However, she is meticulous and impeccable in her work.Even the typesetting of small photos must implement its own style and ideas. Some of Fukamachi's best photos, edited to perfection by Kayoko. Some photos are taken from below the climbers who are climbing, and some photos only show the rocks, climbers and blue sky. The framing is simple but powerful. "Can this photo be typeset upside down?" Kayoko said: Because that is more shocking. Trying to do that, there is a surprising sense of height. The special report entitled "The Horizon of the Sky" was well received, and three months later, Fukamachi's photos were used again on the main page, edited as a coloring page for the special "Return to the Sky". At that time, Fukamachi and other staff were drinking with Kayoko. Thus, Fukamachi saw Kayoko smile for the first time. Fukamachi never dreamed that she would be so energetic in private, like a stereotyped landscape suddenly covered with bright colors. Half a month later, Fukamachi called the editorial department to invite Kayoko: "Let's go have a drink." "I'm not drunk for a thousand cups." Kayoko's response meant OK. Fukamachi knew that Kayoko had climbed mountains when she was a student, so she went to climb mountains with her several times. On the way back from the second mountaineering, Fukamachi had an intimate relationship with her at the hot spring hotel where she was staying. Since then, Fukamachi and Kayoko have met once or twice a week. Kayoko has Fukamachi captivated. Before that, Fukamachi also developed this kind of relationship with several women, but he always kept a three-point clear consciousness.Fukamachi has always believed that he is a person who can't be obsessed with women from the bottom of his heart, and he gradually thinks that he may really be Liu Xiahui who can sit still. However, since dating Kayoko, Fukamachi feels that he understands what it means for a man to be addicted to a woman. Although her whole body was slender and slender, Kayoko's breasts were so plump that Fukamachi couldn't grasp them with one hand.The skin is as smooth as silk, with a tactile feeling of being absorbed in the palm of your hand. The joy of watching a woman become more and more lewd through his own training—the joy of gradually becoming lewd through a woman.Only then did Fukamachi realize that this kind of pleasure exists between men and women. In fact, although there is no such behavior, Fukamachi even feels that if it is to have a deeper intercourse with this woman: "Her urine can also be drunk." Fukamachi thought that he should be the first person to realize the matter of marriage. As soon as the marriage was mentioned, Kayoko said: "I never considered getting married. Because the current relationship is the best fit for me—" It's not because the other party is you, I just said that, no matter who the other party is, I can't consider getting married—— "I love my current lifestyle." Fukamachi thought that was what she meant. If Kayoko is in this mood, that's fine.If Kayoko doesn't want to get married, just think about it later. Kayoko used the excuse of being busy to reduce the time she spends with herself. When did it start? oops-- Fukamachi thought—he was about to fall into meaningless thoughts again. No matter how hard you think about it, there is no answer. Thinking will only sink you deeper into that quagmire. Forget it. It's best not to think about superfluous things, and focus on how to spend the time until the morning. Fukamachi glanced at the clock again. It was two fifty-three in the morning. Before I knew it, I thought about what happened at that time for nearly an hour. Fukamachi decided to change his mood. He was about to take a shower when he noticed another small red light. On the phone on the bedside table, the message light was on. Maybe someone called while he was asleep. However, he didn't seem to hear the phone ring.Looking at the volume switch on the phone, the ringtone of the incoming call has been turned to the minimum. The phone probably rang, but not loud enough to wake Fukamachi. Fukamachi called the counter and asked what kind of message it was. "Around nine o'clock in the evening, Miss Kishi Ryoko called. She left a message saying that she will contact you again." The man at the counter told Fukamachi so respectfully. "that's all?" "Yes. That's it." Fukamachi hung up the microphone. Lie back on the bed again. Ryoko Kishi—— Fukamachi repeated in his mind the name of the woman that the man at the counter said just now. The name of a strange woman. No, wait a minute— I always feel like I heard it somewhere. But, can't remember. Ryoko Kishi called again, two days later. "I heard Mr. Mizuno say—" When she said this, Fukamachi realized that Ryoko Kishi was the one Mizuno had mentioned. "I'm Kishi Buntaro's younger sister." I see-- Fukamachi finally understood who Ryoko Kishi was. In December 1976, Hanyu took the man who died there to Pingfeng Rock, his sister. "Uh, you're Mr. Kishi Buntaro's—" "yes." Kishi Ryoko nodded on the other end of the microphone. She should be three years old, so now— Should be thirty-four years old. About the same age as Kayoko. "I heard that you are investigating Mr. Hanyu everywhere." "Uh, uh—" "Do you know anything about Hanyu-san?" Asked by her, Fukamachi said the same thing as Mizuno. Kishi Ryoko nodded and said: "Mr. Fukamachi met Hanyu-san somewhere, right?" "—" "Mr. Fukamachi must have gone to the Himalayas, right?" "yes." "You climbed Mount Everest from the Nepal side?" "But failed to set foot on the summit." "Did you see Mr. Hanyu at that time?" Fukamachi hesitated for a while. However, being asked so clearly, Fukamachi couldn't play dumb. "I saw him." "Have you seen Mr. Hanyu? So, Mr. Hanyu is still in Nepal?" Kishi Ryoko raised her voice. Judging from the question just now, at least it can be proved that Ryoko Kishi thinks that Hanyu may be in Nepal.However, judging by the tone of her voice now, she was probably not sure if Hanyu was really in Nepal. "Miss Ryoko knows that Mr. Hanyu is in Nepal?" "I don't know. It's been several years since Hanyu-san went to Nepal. However, I haven't heard of him coming back, so I thought, maybe he's still there—" The topic changed to something unclear on the phone. Judging from Kishi Ryoko's tone, she seems to know a lot about Hanyu that Fukamachi doesn't. "Miss Ryoko, I said just now that I saw Mr. Hanyu, but that's just what I thought. In fact, I'm not sure yet." "How do you say that?" "I met a man in Kathmandu who looked very similar to Joji Hanyu. I asked him if he was Joji Hanyu, but he didn't give me a positive answer." "—" "He didn't answer anything, just walked away—" "However, Fukamachi-san thinks that person is Hanyu-san, right?" "yes." "—" "For some reason, I want to see Hanyu-san again. Therefore, I am visiting people who may know where Hanyu-san is now, and asking them many things." "Actually, I also want to know where Mr. Hanyu is. When Mr. Mizuno told me about this, I thought that Mr. Fukamachi might know something about Mr. Hanyu, so I contacted you. I think you might want to see Mr. Hanyu handbook—" "You have his letter in your hand, don't you?" "yes." "Why is his letter in your hand—?" "He himself deposited it with me." "Deposit?" Fukamachi wanted to ask Ryoko Kishi: Why did Hanyu leave that letter with you?But halfway through the question, I decided not to ask. "Sorry. Asked an intrusive question—" "Please don't take it to heart. I called you because I was mentally prepared. I wanted to talk to someone about this. I thought that Mr. Fukamachi might know something about Mr. Hanyu, so I just made up my mind to call. However, when I called you two days ago, you were not there. In fact, I was relieved. Although I also made up my mind, every time I want to call, my heart will always waver , it took two days before I decided to make a second call—” "Can we find a place to meet and have a good chat? I think I can describe what happened in Nepal in more detail then—" "it is good." Kishi Ryoko nodded. I met Ryoko Kishi two days later. The place is the tea house of Shinjuku Plaza Hotel. The afternoon sunlight reflected on the window glass and walls of the diagonally opposite building penetrates in from the floor-to-ceiling windows of the teahouse. Kishi Ryoko came before Fukamachi and was already sitting at the window seat. Seeing "Yue Wang" on the table as a keepsake, Fukamachi asked her aloud: "Are you Miss Kishi Ryoko?" "I'm." Kishi Ryoko nodded in greeting. "excuse me." Fukamachi and Kishi Ryoko sat on chairs facing each other. Ryoko Kishi was wearing a large round neck suit with an open front, revealing her snow-white neck from the neckline. Around the neck is a turquoise stone the size of a little finger, fastened with a leather cord. Blue turquoise complements fair skin very well. It was the first time for a cat that had never left her own house to come to someone else's house—the atmosphere emanating from Ryoko Kishi carried this sense of tension. I came here on my own volition, so I can leave at any time by my own volition——I can see this kind of determination from the tension. Fukamachi ordered coffee, and while the two were chatting intermittently, the waiter brought the coffee. "I have a lot of things I want to ask you—" It was Ryoko Kishi who spoke first. "I don't intend to impose various conditions. Before that, please read the letter that Mr. Hanyu sent me here." Kishi Ryoko picked up the handbag on the chair next to her. Take out an old notebook from it. Kishi Ryoko said she didn't want to make a deal with this matter. Therefore, first take the initiative to show the cards in your hand in front of Fukamachi. "is this okay?" Fukamachi wanted to read the manuscript for a long time. However, once he read the manuscript unconditionally, when Ryoko Kishi asked questions afterwards, he couldn't lie to her. "It doesn't matter." She seemed to have made up her mind, her tone firm. "Then please read it without hesitation." Fukamachi picked up the notebook. small notebook. Although it is not as small as a notepad, it is also two circles smaller than ordinary notebooks. From part of the cover, to the back and part of the back cover, there is a smear of black—the entire cover is gray.Although there is space to write the subject, no words are written there. On the bottom of the cover, only two small characters of "Hayu" are written with a ballpoint pen. Fukamachi opened the letter. February 18, 1979. The beginning of the notebook was written in a ballpoint pen, slightly to the upper right, with rounded characters, and it said this. Letters of Joji Hanyu February 18, 1979 so cold. Even though I was mentally prepared, it was still so cold.Of course I was mentally prepared to spend the cold winter nights on a rock wall over 3,000 meters in the European Alps, but once I was in these temperatures, the wind was unbelievable. However, no matter how cold it is, my determination is still stronger than the cold. Right now, I'm writing this article by the light of my headlamp.I was not good at writing.I brought my notebook because I wanted to write down everything that came to my mind, and it never really occurred to me to fill this notebook with words.I started writing this article not because I thought of anything, but because I couldn't sleep.I couldn't bear to stay awake and face my heart all night.Writing like this can relieve your mood, at least you don't have to think about the same thing over and over again. His fingertips felt as if they were frozen.I rubbed and patted my fingertips vigorously from time to time, while holding the ballpoint pen. It's twelve o'clock in the middle of the night. Two hours ago, the temperature was minus thirty-two degrees. The wind was strong. The wind speed should be thirty meters.There is always such a wind blowing here. Today, I am above the Rebfat Crack.I used my ice stick to shovel away the snow, made a small rock shed, drove wedges into the rock wall, fixed the camping tent to the wedges, got into the camping tent and curled up to sleep in a sleeping bag.No, I wasn't asleep, I was awake writing this notebook. Almost like a squirrel. Whenever a strong wind blows, my body seems to almost leave the rock wall together with the tent, and I can't help but tense up. What I ate today is - I am writing this, and I am shocked.I can't even remember what I ate a few hours ago.What the hell does this happen? Oh, it's chowder.I throw the dried rice and powdered soup into the universal pot with the dried vegetables and boil it, and eat it as it is.In addition, I also ate an orange and a small amount of chocolate. Every time the wind blows, a puff of snow falls from above, hitting the tents and falling into the valley. A scene appeared in my mind, I was hanging on the infinitely extending rock wall like garbage.Only I am alone, living alone between the heaven and the earth. I plan to climb this rock wall alone in eight days.I'm mentally prepared, so it doesn't matter if I can't sleep, but the fingertips are worrying.If there was frostbite, sooner or later the skin would turn purple-black, and the fingers would have to be amputated.I've seen several fingers like that. Open the zipper of the camping tent and look outside, it is a beautiful starry sky.Heat from the earth travels across the sky.I know that the entire rock wall is making a crunching sound as it continues to cool down.great!Even though the snow was completely frozen, it was so hard that even the blades of the crampons couldn't get in. After arriving here, I spend every day staring at the weather map. The weather suitable for climbing for a week is extremely rare here.Although there are sunny days, it is only one day, two days at most.But in a season, that is, during the three-month period of a winter, there will be one or two consecutive sunny days for about a week.How to properly seize this opportunity, which can be said to be the only one in a winter, is critical to whether you can successfully climb the Walker's side. Unbelievably, when I stare at the weather map every day, checking the whole earth, this area of ​​the northern hemisphere, and the weather in this area, unconsciously, I can predict the weather in this area more accurately than the weather forecast. If the weather forecast anchor loses his life due to his own forecast error, the accuracy of the forecast will probably be doubled. And this morning marks the first, and perhaps the only, chance of this winter.Before yesterday, snow fell from gray skies every day, but this morning was unbelievably clear. This morning, I climbed the rock face and finished the Rebfat Crack. Seriously, climbing alone is four times as hard as climbing with two people. Even so, you can't only take half of the luggage, and you have to carry the luggage that weighs almost two people alone. It takes twice as much work. Climbing the distance of a section of climbing rope with bare hands, driving the wedge nails into the top, hanging down to the bottom, carrying the luggage left there and then climbing up.Double times double, so the total is four times. I've known for a long time that I don't get much sleep at night. I have already thought about it in my mood. It is not so much used for sleeping at night as it is used to rest my tired body.Because if you don't prepare this kind of mental preparation in advance from the beginning, you will be mentally miserable. Hase presumably has entered Lasker Mountain House.If he goes in there, he should know that I have climbed the Great Cholas. I was thinking, why am I here now? I'm not resenting Chang-gu.I didn't want to be in the way of that man, nor was I trying to be annoying. It's obviously my own mood, but I can't describe it well. However, I care about that man. I don't seem to want to lose to him. I don't hate that man. Why would you start thinking about such a thing? Maybe this is a great opportunity to think about that. I can't organize my feelings well. Isn't the reason why I'm here now is to protect myself?I came here to protect myself. Whether it's the North Face of the Matterhorn, the North Face of Eiger, or the Great Cholas Peak, I originally thought about climbing alone in winter.If I have a chance, I probably want to climb all by myself like Zhang Gu.I am such a person.Presumably the same is true of others.Therefore, I don’t think it’s wrong for Zhang Gu to want to climb all three north walls by himself.I don't think he's at fault, but if I had the chance, I'd like Boss to climb up one of the north walls unceremoniously— I feel like this is what it means to protect yourself. I can only climb mountains.Only rock climbing.Hase took the only thing from himself.Of course, Hase probably didn't realize this kind of thing. But, at least the man took the ghost rock from me. I think that I probably came here now to get back what was taken away.Probably that's right.The reason why I say roughly is because I can't describe my mood well.If you turn the indescribable mood into an article, I am afraid that the mood will be led by the nose by the words.Therefore, I don't really like to write articles or put all kinds of things that happened during the mountain climbing into words. Once you do that, you will feel less emotional intensity in your heart. Climbers only need to climb mountains. That is tantamount to directly writing mountain climbing into articles or words.However, writing mountain climbing as an article is tantamount to repeating the same thing. That being the case, I think we should simply use the energy of thinking about the article for another kind of innovation. Fingers are at their limit. I held my fingers under my armpit to keep warm, and thought about the following in my mind as if I was writing—— You can't climb this rock wall without facing yourself deeply. All alone. It seems that all human beings on the earth are dead, and only I am left alone in this rock wall and wind. February 19 I fell down. I failed. I lost.I lost to Big Choras Peak.Why didn't you fall to your death?If I just fell down and died without realizing it, I wouldn't have to realize that I was defeated like this. Now that he has recovered his life, he will not want to die. so cold.My whole body hurts.Ah, how did it end up like this?I'm dying.I might die here.Writing the word "death" by myself feels so realistic.I am more afraid after writing than before. Why did it fall? Oh-- Oh shit! It's a skyhook. I hooked it to rest on a ledge above. Just above it is a hanging rock. I see the route.Difficult as it is, there are routes out there.It is an easy traditional route after climbing to the left in a zigzag shape.I saw pegs driven into the wall over there, so it should be an easy line. However, I saw a straight line up from there. Climbing to the left is not my route.That's just the act of following a route that other people have climbed.The vertical climbing route that no one has climbed yet is my route.I can make a mark on this rock face. Not only that.That wall is beautiful to be climbed vertically - I think it's a wall meant to be climbed vertically. I think this consciousness probably works in my head.Actually I don't know.Today, I write while thinking about that incident, so this article has accidentally become an excuse for myself. Anyway, I took that route and fell down. The vertical route is very difficult. However, that doesn't mean it's difficult.If it were a wall that couldn't be climbed vertically, I wouldn't do it either. Difficult as it was, that face looked very likely to be vertically climbed. Gentle hanging rock. However, there are places for the fingers and fingertips to grip, and there are also grooves for the fingers to insert from halfway up the wall.As long as you use two or three manual climbing, you can climb to the top.Moreover, after climbing vertically here, the next journey will be easy.Anyway, even if you climb to the left zigzag first, you will still have to return to the top of this hanging rock sooner or later. If you want to do something no one has done, you should do it where no one has climbed.This is not a big reason.However, if you choose a route only considering safety, you shouldn't come to such a place alone in the cold winter from the very beginning. I took a bite of the frozen rock chocolate and decided to climb vertically. All the way.Even the seemingly tricky places were successfully overcome. What is worrying is that the snow attached to the grooves and grooves around the rock wall has formed solid ice. If you accidentally put your weight on it, it will often just peel off. After climbing the distance of two climbing ropes, we came to the small rock shed. From there, the snow cleared and turned to glassy blue ice.Rocks are packed with ice. Hanging down, take the luggage under there first, and then start climbing the ice wall. I don't know hundreds, thousands, or tens of thousands of years, but I always feel that this Great Cholas Peak has turned into blue ice from the ancient times to the present, seeping out from the inner side of the rock wall.Holding an ice hammer in the right hand and an ice ax in the left, climbing this historic mountain is exciting.Step on the blades of your crampons into the steel-hard ice, drive your ice ax into the wall, and pull your body up. I think I fell down there after climbing twenty-five meters. The ice embedded in the blades of the twelve crampons on his right foot suddenly cracked and peeled off. The weight on the right foot suddenly disappeared. At that time, the body had left the ice wall and was floating in the air.I reluctantly kicked the ice wall with my left foot that remained on the ice wall.This is done to prevent the body from colliding with the rock shelf 25 meters below when falling. There is a sinking feeling as if being sucked into somewhere from the back. At that time, various images flashed through my mind. Has that moment finally come—I think I feel that thought at the same time, and the feeling that I am dead now. When I turned around, I saw the blue sky with white clouds floating on the other side of the crampon blade.Then, I also saw white ice sticking to the tip of the blade of the right crampon. I always feel that at such a critical moment of life and death, even such a small part is imprinted on the retina, which is inconceivable. The mood is also very relaxed, and the memory is fragmented.Oh, now that I lost to Zhang Gu, I don't have to work hard anymore, and now I can be relieved - this kind of feeling appears in my mind in turn.Written as an article is very long, but in fact, it is a more short flash. A shock. I don't even remember what happened afterwards. I think that the climbing rope probably supported my falling weight, and when the rope was tightened, it hit the rock, but I don't know the details. I put the fulcrum of the climbing rope at the rock shed and climbed twenty-five meters from there.首先，我的身体下坠二十五公尺到岩棚的高度，又从那里摔了从支点位于岩棚算起的绳索长度——二十五公尺，所以一共往下摔了五十公尺。 登山绳撑住了一个大男人的体重下坠五十公尺的冲力。正因登山绳有弹力，所以大概能够缓和那股冲力。登山绳八成拉长了将近三公尺。 我被登山绳悬吊在半空中，醒了过来。 全身上下都痛。 当登山绳笔直绷紧时，身体摆动，直接狠狠撞上了岩壁。 每次呼吸，肺部就感到一阵剧痛。左侧肋骨似乎断了。而且好冷。我好像是因为寒冷而苏醒的。 一看手表，居然从坠下之后，过了四小时半。 手上握着刀子。 似乎在失去意识，吊在半空中时感到痛苦，而下意识地用刀子割开了身上的衣物。 双脚的冰爪都掉了，而冰锤和冰斧也不知道掉到哪儿去了，消失不见。 左脚没有感觉。左臂也麻痹，好像不是自己的手臂。令人害怕的是，手套也没了。 至于冰锤和冰斧，原本是以绳索绑在身上。看来自己似乎下意识地连那些东西也以刀子割断了—— 撑住自己身体的登山绳竟然没断。 左手和左脚完全动不了。 自己身体的左侧触着岩壁。 我让右手和右脚搭上岩壁，缓缓移动身体，抵达近在身旁的岩棚。 傍晚了。 我看见夕阳没入远方连绵山峦的峰顶。 这时，恐惧又在自己心里扩散开来。 因为我意识到了一件重要的事。 我想起了粮食、露宿帐、睡袋，全都放在上方距这里二十五公尺的岩棚。 肋骨断掉，左臂、左脚不听使唤。 从现在到太阳西沉之前的时间，实在不足以爬到上方的岩棚。 写这份笔记时，太阳下山，星星升起。 沉积在正下方的蓝色拉斯科冰河，已经夜幕低垂。 so cold. 已经没有任何物品能够让身体避寒。 我只能抱着肚子，蜷着身体。Must sleep.可是，如果睡着的话，大概又会摔下去。 下坠的距离虽短，但如果又吊在半空中的话，那就完蛋了。 我又拿起笔。 写点什么吧。 在写的时候不会死。写不了的时候就是死的时候。然而，要写什么呢？对了，写攀岩的事吧。明明那么焦急，像是被什么催促似地攀上了岩壁，但一攀上之后，心情却突然平静下来，松了一口气。 尽管如此，攀爬时会频频往下看。我大概是害怕长谷的脸不知会在什么时候，从我胯下冒出来吧。 so cold. 脑袋中一片空白。 每当想起什么就拿起笔。 好像没有东西好写了。 打了好几次瞌睡。 常常不会感觉寒冷。 因为相当暖和，所以一觉得不对劲，寒意就突然又袭上身。 左手已经冻伤了。 我用右手写这篇文章。 因为是在黑暗中写，所以不晓得字究竟长怎样。会是看得懂的字吗？不，这看不看得懂都没关系。因为目的在于写本身。写字才是目的。 星星好美。 星星好美。 我把双手夹在腋下取暖。 或许骨折了，右臂发热肿胀。 我一面取暖，一面写。 幸好风势不怎么强。 如果强的话，我大概在一小时前就已经死了。 时间过了多久呢？ 我害怕看手表。要是一看，发现摔下来之后才过了半小时怎么办？到时候，我说不定会发疯。 我看见了灯光。 在拉斯科冰河前方。 那边大概有人家吧。 那个光线在动。 往这里爬来。大概有人来救我了吧。No, not right.人不可能移动那么迅速。 不对，这是幻觉。 hallucinations. 这么一想，灯光又处于原本的位置。 它没有在动。 what-- This is how the same thing?刚才看得见的一带看不见了。说不定连那个灯光也是幻觉。或者是雾渐渐飘进拉斯科冰河而遮住了灯光。就当作是那么回事吧。如果当作是那么回事，就代表我还没疯。 气温降至零下三十度了吧。 鼻水结冰了。 左手手指的血也跟着结冻了。用右手摸摸看左手手指，也硬得像石头。 我刚才摔下来了。 因为吊在半空中的冲击力而醒来，感觉到鬼门关前走了一回，回到了同一个岩棚。一开始，我吊在半空中，把手脚伸向岩壁另一边的空间。为什么会弄错方向呢？因为头昏脑胀。因为头昏脑胀，因为已经没有体力，因为，已经没有体力，所以下次再吊在半空中的话，就回不来了。very scary.I don't want to die.没错，我需要求生的念头。如果想着不想死，光想“不会死就是不会死”，大概就代表我命在旦夕了。 I don't want to die. 只要撑到明天天亮。 只要撑到黎明破晓。 Fight! 明天不要命地爬爬看。 目前为止最棒的攀岩。 一心只想这件事。因为我需要活着的画面。 really weird. 我想起了奇怪的事。 因为在脑中想也想不通，所以我开始写。 摔下来的时候，我为什么会觉得这下能够解脱了呢？ 一点也不能解脱。 因为还活着，所以不能解脱。 可是，就算活着不轻松，也不能因此而希望获得解脱。解脱意味着死亡，可是，为什么不能死呢？为什么非活下去不可呢？这大概是个大哉问。事后再想吧。可是，我要现在想。我该思考什么才好呢？ 现在，我听见了声音。 "Hey--" "Hey--" 我想，有人来救我了。 我差点回应：我在这里、在这里。要是回应幻觉或幻听的话，就完蛋了。 死、亡。 Oh. 是岸这家伙。 岸这家伙吊在那里看着我。 以当时的姿势。 大腿骨钻进胸腔，脸上满是鲜血，表情因为痛苦而皱成一团。 可是，他在笑。 频频招手要我过去。 岸啊。 Shore—— 我也想过去。 我也想过去那边。 可是，我大乔拉斯峰才爬到一半。 让我爬到最后。 我要竭尽所能地爬，竭尽全力地爬，反正非去不可的时候，我自然会去你身边。 我对着岸说。 可是，幸好是岸这家伙来接我。 现在，让我加油。 还剩区区二十五公尺。 去到那边，也有吃的。 都是因为你，害我想起了食物。 我也想起了肚子饿。 我想泡个热水澡。 上高地的坂卷温泉。 只有在去爬谷川的回程路上，去泡过一次水上温泉。 Hey. 我为什么要爬山呢？ 因为我只有爬山吧。 岸，你去哪了？ 你应该懂吧？ 我不太清楚自己为什么要爬山。明明觉得自己十分清楚，可是一旦思考原因，就忽然搞不清楚了。 好歹我知道，如果不思考原因，我就十分清楚。 我愿意拿其他人拥有的所有事物，用来交换爬山。 我知道我只有爬山。 I see. 明天要爬山唷—— 至今将近二十年，我也只是一味地攀岩、向上爬。 明天的二十五公尺，我要爬给你看。 拿出我至今所有看家本领。 shore. Shore—— 再让我看一次你的脸！ 痛苦的时候，只要想起比现在更痛苦的事，现在的事就能忍受。 不过是这种芝麻小事。 Hey…… February 20 生还。 现在，我在搭露宿帐，把楔钉打进岩壁，固定露宿帐。 钻进露宿帐中，穿上所有衣服。 吃硬得像石头的巧克力，把雪煮成热水，再将剩下的巧克力和所有砂糖溶入热水中喝下。 虽说是搭露宿帐，但因为是狭窄的岩棚，所以只是抓着露宿帐的两处，拉到上方的岩壁。使用营柱和登山背包，在岩棚中撑出一个人只能勉强横躺的空间。 明明喝了一堆热水，却丝毫没有涌现半点力气。 虽说是生还，但有时候只是阎罗王准许你多活一晚，甚至是多活几小时。 今天一天内，一口气用光了至今二十年份的所有努力。难道至今的二十年，只是为了攀爬这二十五公尺吗？ 这种事情大概没办法再来一次吧。 能够使用的只有右手、右脚，以及牙齿。 我使用绳环，在主登山绳上打普鲁士结。 一面让普鲁士结的绳结慢慢以五公厘或一公分的距离在主登山绳上滑动，一面攀爬。 右脚抵在岩壁上，右手握着主登山绳，支撑体重。在此同时，用牙齿让普鲁士结的绳结向上移动。这件事并不简单。每行动一次，就会用掉所有体力，因此必须稍作休息。即使好不容易攀登一公尺，也会因为普鲁士结的绳结松开，而滑落三十公分——有时甚至将近五十公分。 用牙齿松开冻结的绳结，然后再绑紧。这件事做了不下千百次。 早上开始这个动作，抵达目的地已经傍晚了。 九小时？ 十小时？ 我一整天就在做这件事。 我体内已经什么也不剩。 不光是力气、体力等能以言语形容的事物，连所有无法用言语形容的事物也在这趟攀登中全用光了。 于是，我得到的是可以多活一晚或几小时的生存权。 我不会说是神的恩赐或幸运。因为是我亲手获得这项权利的。 一眨眼间，入夜了。 got windy. 我会打瞌睡，但那不足以称为睡眠。 so cold. 比昨晚更冷许多。 我把巧克力放进口中，但过了老半天也不融化。食不知味。我想，我说不定是把石头放进了口中。 攀爬期间也一直听到幻听。 连岸那家伙和伊藤先生都跑出来，对我说：换我爬前导吧。 我还可以。 再让我撑一下。 我一面这么回答，一面爬。 喝了热水，幻听一度消失，但似乎又开始了。 我迷迷糊糊地打瞌睡，听见外头有人在叫我的名字，所以现在爬了起来。 我没有回应。 因为我知道那是幻听。 因为那道声音是从我的左侧，也就是空无一物的空旷空间传来。 我醒来好几次。 风势终于增强，差点连露宿帐一起刮走。 如果把楔钉打进岩壁时，仔细确认打进岩壁多深就好了。 总之，我已经受够了被某个人的声音叫醒。 所以人都滚一边去！ 可以不用再来了。 会有人来救我吗？ 我并没有后援队，所以大概没有人会特地跑来，发现我变成了这副模样。假如有人发现我，若不是朝这里而来的长谷，大概就是长谷的后援侦查小组的某个人吧。 又醒来了。 原本吊在脸上方的露宿帐，一部分垂了下来。 楔钉松脱了。 我没有力气走出露宿帐，重新把楔钉打进岩壁了。我已经没办法做任何事了。而且也不想做。 让我自生自灭吧！ 别吵醒我！ 我缩在岩棚边缘的岩石后面。 钻进睡袋，以登山绳和楔钉固定身体。 把登山背包铺在屁股底下，用露宿帐裹住身体。 不久之前，第二根楔钉松脱，被风吹动，险些连露宿帐一起掉下去。 因为盖着睡袋和露宿帐，所以比昨晚好过，但一想到强风，其实是一样的。因为缺乏体力，所以相形之下，状况应该比昨天更恶劣。 花了将近一小时，才在这个地方固定了自己的身体。 头灯的电池也因此用到几乎没电了。我想电池应该就在某个地方，但是没有体力去找。 因为身在岩石后面，所以不会直接受到强风吹袭，但是因为风在打旋，所以空气持续在流动。 因此，很冷。 空间好窄。 一旦静静不动，马上就会感到疲惫，膝盖疼痛起来，所以每隔几分钟就要挪动膝盖的位置。 夜才刚开始。 一想到又要度过令人难以忍受的漫漫长夜，顿时感到绝望。 我心想：若像这样努力半天之后，结果还是没命，或许现在死了还比较好。可是，这么想的那一瞬间，就打消了那个想法，所以大概不要紧吧。 我从刚才就看见队伍。 有许多身穿白衣的人，朝我眼前的空间走去。 全都是熟人。 可是，明明都是熟人，但我却无法具体认出他们是谁。 当我想问他们要去哪时，队伍中的一个人回过头来。 我觉得如果问了之后，对方没有回答，一定非常可怕，所以我没问那个人。 幸好没问刚才队伍的那个人。 因为事后思考，得到了那是幻觉的结论。 如果向幻觉发问，自己也会陷入幻觉之中。 光是用鼻子呼吸，鼻腔痛了起来。 我用右手手指擤鼻涕。 擤出了红色带血、冰沙状的鼻涕。 一咳嗽，便感觉胸口疼痛。 大概是肋骨裂开了吧。 即使用头灯照，左手的小指和无名指也变成了紫色。 血大概冻得硬梆梆了。 我十分清楚，变成这样的话，就必须切除手指。因为我看过好几次这种情形。 左脚脚趾大概也不行了。 头好痒。 我松开安全帽，用右手手指搔痒。头发缝隙间好像塞了不少沙子，硬物跑进了指甲缝。 扑簌簌地掉下来。 一看之下，竟是结块的血。 大概是昨天摔下来时，头撞到哪里了吧。 安全帽有个地方裂开了。 凉子小姐，我该说什么才好呢？凉子小姐，抱歉。我已经不能再为你做什么了。 因为我已无能为力。 从刚才开始，岸那家伙就在扯我的衣袖。 用他折成原本三分之一大小的身体，试图拉动我的手。 时间已经到了吗？ 你用那张嘴巴在笑吗？ That's it. 已经非去不可了吗？ 没有未了的事吗？ 你寂寞吗？ Shore—— 去你身边也行。 可是啊，我觉得我还不能接受。 我发出了声音吗？还是在我的心里想呢？ Wait a minute. wait a second. shore. Shore—— 别露出那么悲伤的表情！ 我还不过去。 这么一说，岸的身影消失了。 发出呼呼风声。 哦，原来在拉扯衣袖的是风啊。 纵然是风，若是被拉去那边，便是漆黑的夜。会坠入那里。 岸那家伙出现好几次，一下子拉我的衣袖，一下子拿出刀子想割断登山绳。 明明身高只剩原本的一半，却将手搭在打进岩石的楔钉上，想把它拔出来。 可是，因为岸的左膝就在他的脸正前方，所以好像看不清楚楔钉。 那么希望我去陪他吗？ 既然这样，干脆去好了。 像那样用牙齿咬冰冷的楔钉也没用。 “岸。” 我真的发出声音。 再等一下，我迟早会去你身边。 我早晚会摔下去，我会在那天之前去。 如果我因为害怕摔下去，而放弃爬山，或忘记你的事，开始思考世俗的事，到了那个时候，你就来带我走。 现在还不是时候。 我在摔下去之前会去。 相信我，我一定会去。 不过，唯独故意摔下去这件事我办不到。 Shore—— Shore—— 别露出那么悲伤的表情！ 别用那种眼神看我！ You are listening. 我绝对不会想要自己独得幸福。 我也不想获得解脱。 You are listening. 我只能答应你这件事。 我不会放弃来这里。 do not worry! 我会一直爬山。 okay? Oh. 你来得正好。 shore. 要不要去喝啤酒？