Chapter 7 Chapter 19 Gray Rock Tower

I sleep in a tent. No, I'm not sleeping. Just lie on your back in the sleeping bag and close your eyes to rest. can't sleep. It is as if the eyes are opened inside the eyelids.Mingming closed his eyes, but his eyeballs were wide open, with a piercing look in his heart. Must sleep-- The more you think about it, the clearer your consciousness becomes.The body that is active during the day is excited and cannot calm down.The excitement of the body makes the consciousness excited. You must sleep now, otherwise it will affect your actions tomorrow.Even when he was in good health, he couldn't catch up with Hanyu. If he didn't sleep and kept exhausting his energy, he probably wouldn't even be able to climb up to 7,000 meters.

It must have been midnight. How long has it been since you made up your mind to sleep? Breathing is also painful. Six thousand five hundred meters. This time, the height of the first experience. Sure enough, as An Jialin said, should I bring an oxygen cylinder? Just in case, the base camp has several oxygen bottles prepared by Angarin.If I carried it here, I would be able to breathe oxygen and sleep now—— However, once the oxygen cylinder is carried, the luggage weight will probably exceed 30 kilograms.In this way, is it possible to get here? I'm afraid I can't be here right now, meditating in my sleeping bag like this.

Don't think about it. Anyway, I didn't bring an oxygen cylinder. That is the truth.Now, I am in that fact. There is no wind. A peaceful night, unbelievably quiet. Originally, the wind was blowing constantly here.Set up a tent in the middle of the empty West Valley, without any windshield around. However, there was no wind. Fukamachi felt the temperature of the air drop suddenly.It was so cold that the air seemed to creak.Because the air is thin, all the temperature on the ground is released to the upper air. so cold. I'm afraid it has become twenty-seven or eight degrees below zero.

You feel colder because you breathe less oxygen.I always feel that the sleeping bag is not warm at all. Hanyu's tent was about ten meters away. Everything was completely silent, as if even Hanyu's snort could be heard. Fukamachi listened attentively in the darkness, but of course, there was no sound of Hanyu's snort. Hanyu must have fallen asleep. He is probably sleeping. He seemed to be on the flat ground, sleeping on his own bed, falling into a deep sleep.Or does he, like me, open his eyes in the dark? In the very middle of the West Valley. Waiting for the time to pass--

It took nine hours to climb from base camp, including breaks. In one day, it rose to a height of 1,100 meters. However, I have adapted to an altitude of about 5,800 meters in advance, so it is equivalent to an increase of 700 meters from the altitude I have adapted to. When I experienced the height for the first time, it was 500 meters a day-that is the height that can be ascended in the Himalayas.However, if it’s just about rising altitude, you can climb up to 1,000 meters, but you can’t spend the night there.Ascend a thousand meters, breathe the air at that height while exercising, and sleep at the place where you descend 500 meters—this is the basic principle of climbing the Himalayas.

700 meters—— Ascent height limit. Have mild symptoms of altitude sickness. Headache, loss of appetite. For dinner, boil the dried rice with water to make porridge, eat it with prunes, seaweed, and swallow vitamin C and vitamin B tablets. I nibbled a little bit of cheese and brewed powdered corn chowder with hot water. Slowly drink 1.5 liters of black tea with lots of honey. 1.5 liters in the morning.Drink a liter from a thermos in action, and now drink another 1.5 liters. A total of four liters. As predetermined amount. Moisture is often taken from the surface of the body by the air because of sweating due to exercise, and because the air is thinner.

No matter how much water is added, it will not be added too much. When Fukamachi arrived here, Hanyu's blue tent had already been set up. Fukamachi took pictures and set up his own tent. He didn't speak to Hanyu. Anyway, even if he spoke to him, Hanyu probably wouldn't respond. If Hanyu was awake, he should have sensed that he had arrived.Therefore, if he did not take the initiative to talk to him, he was not allowed to talk to him. Fukamachi heard a regular radio communication at six o'clock. At 7:00 in the morning and 6:00 in the evening, Hanyu would communicate with Angarin in the base camp by radio.

Fukamachi listened to their conversation on his radio. "How about it?" Angeline asked. "According to the scheduled itinerary." Hanyu replied.Other than that, the brief newsletters consisted only of the weather. Fukamachi did not join the newsletter. They made an agreement—Fukamachi would bring the radio up the mountain, but even if the time was staggered with Hanyu, Fukamachi would not regularly communicate with the base camp. If Fukamachi was unable to keep up with the scheduled communication due to some accident, or could not be contacted due to a broken radio, Angarin might climb up worriedly.In this way, it would be impossible to fully assist Hanyu.

The base camp radio is always on.They made an agreement at the time of departure that Shenmachi would contact the base camp only in the event of a life-threatening accident. Fukamachi was in his sleeping bag, remembering Hanyu's voice during the communication. Short and deep voice. Breathing is also normal. It appears he's doing pretty well. Just when Fukamachi thought, Hanyu is a man with extraordinary physical strength—— Suddenly feel the need to urinate. Pretty strong urge to urinate.However, why at this time... Because of the large intake of water. The moment I realized this, it gradually turned into a strong urge to urinate.

Under normal circumstances, as long as you fall asleep directly, you will forget the urge to urinate.However, only the consciousness is too clear in the dark, under the current situation, that urge to urinate will not disappear. can't sleep. Because I couldn't sleep, I realized the urge to urinate.Because I was aware of the urge to urinate, I couldn't sleep even more. However, the thought of how much trouble it would be to climb out of this sleeping bag, put on a windbreaker, and go out in hiking boots, doesn't bother to go out to pee.Unlike on flat ground, at this height, it takes time to bend over, put on socks, put on shoes, etc. in a cramped tent.

In the state of wearing heavy clothes, if you want to bend your upper body forward to wear shoes, your abdomen will be compressed, and you will have to stop breathing several times for a few seconds.Just that short breath-holding will consume the oxygen in the blood, and the body needs new oxygen and gasps heavily. Fukamachi struggled with the urge to urinate repeatedly for nearly thirty minutes, and finally decided to go out to urinate. Forbear for 30 minutes on the left and 30 minutes on the right. Depending on the situation, you may be able to endure another 30 minutes.However, this is not a situation that can be endured all the way into the morning, and finally the problem of urination has to be solved.That being the case, Fukamachi made up his mind to solve the internal emergency now. Turn on your headlights. The scene inside the tent emerges, glistening with the frozen water vapor on the top of the tent. While measuring the rhythm of breathing, put on the shoes in the sleeping bag. Needless to say, put the removed shoes outside the tent, even if they are put in the tent, the shoes will still freeze. As a result, the feet will be prone to frostbite. In cold places, it is a long-standing habit of Fukamachi to carefully shake off the snow before putting the shoes in the sleeping bag. out of the tent. Suddenly, Fukamachi was surrounded by a landscape that made people gasp in amazement. As if suddenly thrown into the very center of the universe, rather than the ground. The Milky Way is all over the head. Not a single cloud. In the transparent and clear night sky, numerous stars twinkle. To the south is Mount Nubu, to the east is Lhotse, to the northeast is Mount Everest, and to the north is the west edge of Mount Everest, surrounded by stars.Fukamachi stands in a huge valley surrounded by rocky ridges of more than 8,000 meters in the Himalayas. On the same height in the west, Pumori Mountain appeared.I also saw the glacier that went deep into the arms of Pumori Mountain, hit the chest of Pumori Mountain, and changed its direction significantly to the left in a meandering way. There is no moon, but even the details of snow and rocks can be seen clearly. Fukamachi thought, could such a clear vision be obtained with the light of snow and stars? Orion appears above Lhotse. Located on Orion's right shoulder, Betelgeuse glows red.Is that star so red?It is said to be a star with a diameter of 700 to 1,000 times the diameter of the sun. Rigel on the left foot. And right in the middle of the three stars that symbolize the sword on Orion's belt - a cloudy nebula appears. Sirius in the constellation Canis Major. It turns out that the starlight is so different, showing different colors one by one? Fukamachi stared at the scene as if seeing it for the first time. There is no wind. Looking back, the tent that he stayed in before was at his feet. Did I stay in that small world before? What was he thinking in the darkness in that tent? In front of the breathtaking beauty, Fukamachi couldn't remember what he was thinking before. The halo formed by the headlights at the feet looks very cold. Then, Fukamachi saw Hanyu's tent on the opposite side. The cold air tightly gripped Fukamachi's body. Fukamachi's body temperature gradually dissipated into the air. He pissed. Fukamachi's body temperature leaked out of the body along with a large amount of urine. Go back to the tent. Open the zipper, then zip it up again after entering. Carefully shake the snow off your hiking boots. Take the snow out of the shoes with extra care. Because once the small snow flakes run into the shoes, the flesh and blood on the feet will freeze when they touch there, resulting in frostbite. Put the shoes in the sleeping bag and get into the sleeping bag again. Restored to the original state again, the creatures inhabiting my heart came to my mind again. As soon as you zip up the tent, the heart window opens. Even thinking that the starry sky was directly above this dark tent, the emotion just now would never come back to my heart. It is difficult for a person's thoughts, ideas, or emotions to stay in one place. Fukamachi thought of Kayoko. what is she doing She probably won't think about what I'm thinking now, getting into my sleeping bag like this. stop doing this. What does that mean? Just meeting like this, doing this kind of thing. Do you want to start over with Kayoko again? do not know. Although I don't know, I can guess that it may not be possible to start over.I know this anyway. Love is over. So, what do you expect from your relationship with Kayoko? That's the conclusion. It has been understood that the two cannot start over. However-- Fukamachi asked himself. Didn't Kayoko already tell you the conclusion?She left without saying goodbye.That's the conclusion, isn't it?Now that things have come to a conclusion, why think about it? Stop thinking about it. However, trying not to think about it, to put it bluntly, is it tantamount to thinking about Kayoko? If you try not to think, you really can. There is nothing easier in the world. That is the wind that blows from time to time. It's like you don't know what kind of wind is blowing on the mountain, but you can't change the route once you decide on it. There are also ups and downs in life. People are alive, and they don't make conclusions about all kinds of things they encounter in their lives.Most people just procrastinate and live like that.To live means to worry about something.It's not about getting rid of all annoying things before you can move on to the next thing without any hindrance. Probably insisting on something. The same is true for your own work. No one ordered me to have only one job in my life. You don't have to be a photographer all your life, and you don't have to climb mountains all your life.Likewise, you don't have to be devoted to one woman all your life.If you want to be a photographer for the rest of your life, go ahead and do it.If you want to climb a mountain for the rest of your life, just go for it.If you want to be attached to a woman for the rest of your life, just be attached to her. Trying to decide on one or the other, is there a problem with this kind of thinking? Fukamachi asked Hanyu in his heart. Hanyu. Hanyu. Why are you in this place? Why endure alone in a place like this? Why climb a mountain? Is your answer on that peak? After climbing the Southwest Face, is there anything waiting for you there? Nothing is waiting for you. There probably isn't any answer or ending there. Hanyu, what are you going to do next after you capture this southwest wall? Standing on the highest place in the world in the most difficult way, what to do next? Where to go from that peak? There is no place in the world higher than that peak! After climbing up—— Hanyu. Have you ever thought about the great emptiness that followed after that? Hanyu... Fukamachi always felt that Hanyu climbed the mountain to meet greater sorrow. Then, what about the self who was chasing Hanyu? Hanyu was climbing his mountain. What is this behavior of chasing Hanyu?Is this my way of climbing? Fukamachi. you-- Didn't you think about it a lot? Is this what happens to people when the air is thin? Isn't drinking can relieve boredom? Because there is no alcohol here. no women. Nor anyone. No, there are people. That guy Hanyu is nearby. However, Hanyu and I are alone. All alone. The only thing that makes people feel warm is their own body temperature. Is it warming up a little? Can the stars still be seen? It doesn't matter if you can see it or not. It's time to sleep. Tomorrow will repeat countless times more strenuous movements than today. You don't know where you can go with Hanyu, but do your best. it is good. I know. I see. I'm going to sleep, I'm already sleepy, but I seem to have to think about something... what is that? mountain? Broad white ridges. blue sky. Walk towards the summit on the snow. is that me no, isn't it me? I looked at the guy heading towards the summit. Where are you going? If you stand there, there will be no way ahead! what to do? Don't be so rushed. Me too, I'm going too. Don't leave me alone! Don't leave me alone! Hey. don't leave... Fukamachi fell asleep. Morning-- Fukamachi woke up from a light sleep. The inside of the tent was frozen hard.It was all sweat coming out of Fukamachi's body.Sweat vaporizes due to Fukamachi's body temperature, disperses from the fibers of the clothing on the body or the gaps in the sleeping bag cloth, and solidifies and freezes inside the tent. Pull down the zipper of the entrance and exit, and look outside. There are still stars in the sky, but due to the dawn, there are only a few stars left. Hanyu's tent is still there. There was still an hour and a half before the scheduled departure time at 7:30. The breakfast in Fukamachi is the same as last night's. It is mainly boiled dry rice, with a slice and a half of cheese that is more than last night. A handful of raisins. At most, increase these foods. Drink plenty of black tea with honey. After breakfast, we will communicate at seven o'clock. The conversation this time was also brief. "Have you had enough sleep?" Angeline asked. "Ok." Hanyu replied. " "According to the scheduled itinerary?" "Well. Departure at 7:30." "Good Luck." That's pretty much what the newsletter is all about. Fukamachi has been packed. All that is left is to fold the tent and stuff it into the backpack. Get out of the tent. Pull the frozen tent poles out of the snow, fold the tent cloth, and stuff it into your hiking pack. Put the packed hiking backpack on the snow, hold the camera, and wait for Hanyu to come out. Not long after- First, the zipper of the tent is unzipped and the backpack is thrown outside.Then, Hanyu came out of the tent. Fukamachi photographed Hanyu climbing out of the tent and folding it. Hanyu came out of the tent and only glanced at Fukamachi.Then silently pack. Fukamachi filmed the scene carefully so that nothing would slip through the screen. no wind. sunny. Undefended. The southwest wall showed everything in front of Hanyu. There was no wind and no snow smoke. Nothing to hide. Naked. I always feel that the south wall is saying to Hanyu: This is the complete me. The biggest difficulty on the southwest wall—the large rock wall rock belt at a height of more than 8,000 meters, and the yellow belt above it, which symbolizes the giant peaks of the Himalayas, have partly appeared. And the rock wall of the southwest wall above it - the ice bucket wall. Hanyu picked up his hiking backpack and started walking slowly. Fukamachi aimed the lens from a low position obliquely behind, put it in the viewfinder with the southwest wall as the background, and pressed the shutter. wide angle. The southwest wall looked like it was pressing down on Hanyu. There is a difference of about 1,100 meters in height from the Gray Rock Tower, the scheduled location for the second night. The altitude there is 7,600 meters.Hanyu was scheduled to take about eight hours to get there. As the altitude rises, it gradually becomes steeper. At an altitude of 6,600 meters, the divergence point with the traditional route was crossed.If you take the traditional route to summit Mount Everest, you will continue to climb vertically from the West Valley to the South Ridge.From there, climb the southeast ridge towards the summit, which is the traditional route to the summit in Nepal.In 1953, Hillary and Danny took this route when they set foot on the summit. For the southwest wall, you have to choose the route to the left from here. At this time, between the glacier of the West Valley and the rock wall of the southwest wall, there is a crack called the ice gorge, the gap between the ice and the rock.After climbing over the ice gorge, I finally climbed to the bottom of the southwest wall. The altitude is 6,700 meters. The cracks are sometimes wide and sometimes narrow.In addition, there are broad places and narrow places.There are places where rocks and glacial snow are connected together, and there are also places where there are depressions. Not necessarily. Hanyu, however, climbed over there effortlessly. From where the frozen avalanches fell, to reach above those snows. Fukamachi climbed the ice gorge about ten minutes later than Hanyu. We finally entered the field that Fukomachi had come to for the first time. If it is the traditional route, this spring, I climbed to the South Ridge by myself. Seven, 986 meters. It was only a little short of eight thousand meters. Where can I climb this time? Judging from the situation of adaptation this time, it is obvious that there is no way to climb to 8,000 meters. Last time, there was plenty of time to acclimatize and oxygen tanks were available. However, this time it was neither. I am afraid that from this point to a place less than 8,000 meters away, it will be the highest point I can climb.Must turn back from there. No matter where it is, after the physical strength is exhausted, it is impossible to turn back. Climb until exhausted, and then fall there... It's okay if you die like that, maybe you can climb up to 8,000 meters. However, you must come back alive. Of course, because you have to climb to the limit before giving up, you will get quite serious altitude sickness. Hear hallucinations, see hallucinations. Maybe you will be unsteady on your feet, suddenly unable to stand up, and then fall down. Very likely. I am alone. Trying to think with the mood of Hanyu who was walking in front, even though he didn't see Fukamachi, he couldn't tell whether he turned back or fell down. This time there is no C3 or C2, where there are oxygen cylinders and partners for mountaineering. Fukamachi climbed on the ice wall with an average slope of forty degrees. Slopes that are more frozen than a bobsled course. Holding the ice stick in the right hand and the ice ax in the left, climb up with the double axes.There is an altitude difference of 200 meters from the ice gorge to the warship rock at an altitude of 6,900 meters. Steep slope. Let the front claws of the crampons embed into the ice wall, and climb up step by step.It feels like I'm not walking, but climbing. Hold the front end of the ice stick in your right hand and hit the ice wall.Then lift your left foot so that the crampons dig into the ice wall.Then, drive the front end of the ice ax held in your left hand into the ice wall, and then raise your right foot——like this, gradually lift your body up. The intervals between moving from one action to another become longer. The lack of oxygen reacts immediately on the body. Looking up, Hanyu was already far above. Fukamachi hadn't climbed halfway yet, and the top of Hanyu's head was already a battleship rock.Hanyu climbed on this steep ice wall as if he was walking. A deep sense of despair hit Kamifuka-machi's heart. Climbing on the ice wall, the gap between Hanyu and himself was manifested in the form of the world. Fukamachi stopped on the way to the ice wall and took heavy breaths repeatedly. Is now the time to turn back? If it is now, it will definitely be able to turn back. Climbing this slope requires more than technology. There is also the risk of being hit by falling rocks. If you are hit directly on the head by a fist-sized rock that suddenly falls from above, you will die. Even if you hit your foot instead of your head, at that moment, your body will lose your balance and slide down the slope. 100 meters. If it slips, it's game over. As long as one of the ice stick, ice ax, or left foot or right foot doesn't grab the ice wall once, it's dead.If you are climbing a normal--lower mountain, even if you lose your balance because of this, as long as you hold on to the other three points, you can stabilize your body.However, can I do that kind of thing at this height? Well, maybe it can be done. Can't be discouraged. Once discouraged, what is possible becomes impossible. As long as the body is firmly supported by three points, it will be fine. However-- The reaction rate slowed down. Physical strength also declined. As long as you are careless once, you will be pushed into hell. No, that person is none other than myself. Don't think about that! Look! Feet start shaking! Fukamachi's knees trembled slightly. Fukamachi didn't know whether it was because of fear or fatigue. Anyway, Fukamachi's knees kept shaking. In a place like this— Fukamachi thought. Grit your teeth. Is this the pressure of going it alone? How could it be impossible to move in such a place. Deliberately take deep breaths repeatedly and rapidly. And again and again and again and again. let's go! There is nothing worse than stopping the action here. Because the crampons embedded in the ice wall will gradually loosen. Oh shit! stare up. There is a blue sky. Head to that sky. Kayoko—— Ryoko—— At times like this, think of what women do. Will die! "Die, you idiot!" Fukamachi spat loudly. He stared at the ice wall in front of him. Pull out the ice stick from the ice wall and punch it in again. left foot. Then came the ice axe. right foot. Don't think about it! Don't think about it! Moves like a machine! Climb like an ant! Fukamachi gritted her teeth and began to climb. Fukamachi was sitting under the battleship rock, curled up on the snow, panting with his back to the rock. The altitude is 6,900 meters. For those who cling to the southwest wall, the first place to rest is here. The black rock, ten meters high and fifteen meters thick, is about one hundred meters long and straddles the ice wall with a slope of forty degrees.Fukamachi leaned his body against the little space at the bottom of the rock, and took heavy breaths repeatedly. When I arrived here, I sat down on the snow without unloading my hiking backpack. Then, don't move.Looking down at Xigu in a trance. Just listening to the sound of the cold wind blowing the windbreaker hat. At this time—— There was a "dong" sound from the top of the head. A black object fell from above and hit the top of the battleship rock in front of my eyes.Then, it bounced up and landed on the snow about one meter ahead from the soles of its feet. While spinning, it rolled down the ice wall at a fast speed. A black rock the size of a fist. If it hits the head— Probably smashed the helmet, crushed the skull, and died instantly. Before that, there were a few places where TCs—that is, Temporary Camps—were set up.Temporary camps are camps used for temporary emergency refuge and rest.The scale is slightly smaller than C1, C2 and other camps. It is one of the few less dangerous places on the southwestern face than the other slopes. Everywhere around, there is a danger of falling rocks. Among the rock walls of Everest, the southwest wall is particularly fragile.Rocks large and small are often peeled off the rock face. The place where Fukamachi was located was the only place on this slope where he could actually protect his body from being hit by falling rocks.Stones falling from the snow slopes above would hit Battleship Rock and fly into the air, leaping over the heads of those below. Although the difference is only about one meter, it can affect life and death. Head hurts. That kind of dull pain is like the inside of the brain has turned into a rotten fruit, and then, every ten seconds, a sharp pain will emerge from the core of that fruit. I don't want to move anymore. Physical strength is about to run out. Physical strength has not yet reached its limit.Fukamachi knew that there was still a little energy left.Even though he is not as good as Hanyu, he is no longer an amateur when it comes to using his own body. no problem? Can you still climb? Fukamachi also knows how to talk to his body repeatedly while being tortured by anxiety and timidity. The limit is near. He is well aware of this too. Although there is still some strength left to reach the limit of physical strength, if I use all that strength... Is there no way to go back from here? If you don't go back, you will die here. Or, is it my own cowardly heart that makes the brain think this way? Fukamachi tried to correctly estimate his physical strength. By the way, measure the pulse rate.It's numbers, so it has nothing to do with my feelings.In this way, you can judge your physical condition from the calm angle of numerical value. Fukamachi held his left arm with his right hand. but-- No pulse. No, not without a pulse. no! It was my mistake. That's why there's no pulse. However, what am I doing wrong?Probably something basic.That's why there is obviously a pulse, but I don't think it is. oh I got it. Saw.it is this.This is bad.Obviously see so clearly.It is not good to see it now.Because this is not good, I think wildly and feel that I have no pulse.However, what is it that you see now?This is it.What is this?Does it make sense? Fukamachi's heart gradually filled with anxiety. You know it, you can see it, but you can't describe it in words.Could it be that the reason why it is indescribable is actually because you don't know what it is? Oh shit! what is this? On my hands - right and left stuff. By the way, isn't it just a glove? ! I wear PVC (polyvinyl chloride) inner gloves on the inside of my hands; on the outside, I wear gloves so thick that they look like baseball gloves, so even if I hold my arm, I can't feel my pulse. Take off the gloves. bare hands. Hold your left arm with your right hand. one-- two-- three-- Ah, fool. Just counting is not enough. It's pointless if you don't look at your watch. Unlock the watch on the left arm - put it here, watch the second hand measure twenty seconds.Then, multiply it by three. one…… two…… Huh?Having said that, what is my normal value? Sixty? Eighty? one…… two…… Huh, no pulse. No pulse again! what happened? Why exactly does the pulse... Oh. idiot. What am I doing! Even in this kind of place, bare hands are exposed to the outdoor air. His hands were freezing and aching. How could such a hand measure the pulse! What the hell am I doing? Put on gloves. Fukamachi shuddered. It turned out that the symptoms of altitude sickness had already had an impact on the spirit. Although I haven't seen hallucinations yet, something close to hallucinations is now being produced in my mind. Breathe out quickly over and over again. I want oxygen, I want more oxygen. As if remembering, Fukamachi opened the thermos and poured sweet hot black tea into his stomach. OK, stand up! Stand up and go! Tried to stand up several times. However, as soon as he stood up and wanted to take a step, before he knew it, he huddled up and sat on the corner of the rock. The body is limp and paralyzed. Fukamachi, cheer up! You should have gone to higher ground this year. 7. The south ridge is 986 meters high. remember!You know Everest higher than this battleship rock! Wait a minute. That's because of the use of oxygen. Altitude adaptation has also been done more solidly, and it took about half a month to climb to that height. Climb up from C1, C2, and C3 step by step. When you arrive, the tent has been set up, and sleeping bags, gas stoves, and food are also available. Now, I carry all the luggage alone. The climbing rope is fully pulled up on the route, and the partner is also there.In case of an emergency, your partner will save you—— What are you talking about, Fukamachi? Alone-- Didn't you climb up this southwest wall knowing that you were going to act alone? Hanyu has climbed very high! When he arrived at the Battleship Rock, Fukamachi confirmed that Hanyu was at the top. Hanyu had already climbed to about two-thirds of the distance from the gray rock tower. Hanyu's red windbreaker could be seen moving up silently on the ice wall above. what time is it now? Twelve thirty. Departed at 7:30 in the morning, and it was almost twelve o'clock when we arrived here. It took four hours and thirty minutes. Assuming that Hanyu arrived here in four hours according to the scheduled itinerary, he was one hour later than him. Hanyu didn't take a break, passed by here, and he had already rested here for thirty minutes. If you don't chase now, you won't be able to catch up with Hanyu. If it took Hanyu four hours to reach the gray rock tower from here, it would take him about five hours. I've been climbing for five hours? This is how the same thing? It might take more time than expected. In this way, do I want to move more than ten hours a day at this height in the Himalayas? This is crazy behavior. Can that kind of thing be done? I have given up. I'm going to turn back from here. If you want to spend one night, you can only stay at the bottom of this warship rock.There is only room to pitch a tent here.Set up a tent at the bottom of Battleship Rock, where I am now huddled, and descend from here tomorrow.In this way, I might be able to go back alive. In this way, Hanyu will probably also see me returning.Hanyu will surely breathe a sigh of relief as there are no unnecessary obstacles in the way. However-- is this okay? There was another voice in Fukamachi's heart. go back please Won't you regret going back? Didn't you come here to see what Hanyu wants to do with all your might?To put it more bluntly, didn't you come here for yourself? yes. That's right. I tried my best to see what Hanyu wanted to do, and I came here. As you said, I am for myself. However, I'm not out to kill myself. I didn't come here to commit suicide! Quick, stand up! Stand up and go down! If you go down the mountain, the oxygen level will increase. Maybe it's better to go down the mountain than spend the night here. Go back from here and forget about it all. Forget about Hanyu. Forget about women. Forget about climbing. By the way, simply forget about your own affairs! Forget everything and be free. Stop dreaming. In this life, don't try to do anything. That's right. Isn't this standing up steadily? The feet can still move. I'm in good health. After taking a short break and drinking black tea with a lot of honey, it seems to have somewhat restored my spirits.Now downhill. Be careful going down the mountain! Hello! Not over there. Going down the mountain is not going over there. What are you doing on the ice wall over there! Are you still going to climb up? Hey…… Leaving the Battleship Rock, on the ice wall with a 40-degree slope, climb to the upper left in a zigzag shape for about 25 meters. Work your way up from there. From here, the slope gradually becomes forty-five degrees. Next, enter the huge rock ditch running vertically on the southwest wall, the central rock ditch filled with snow, and climb about 700 meters there.Where to spend the night today - Gray Rock Tower is there. Fukamachi had already entered the central rock ditch. Even ice walls that are also frozen with snow have various states. Some places are frozen as hard as stone and the surface is smooth, and some places have only a thin layer of snow attached.In addition, there are some places that can be climbed without crampons, and the toes of the shoes can be drilled just right. The state of the ice wall will change as you climb up, and it is not fixed as one of them. It wasn't just the walls of ice that were as hard as stone that were scary.If you know it is hard in advance, you can take corresponding countermeasures.The headache is misreading the texture of the ice wall. What will happen when you step on the ice wall that you thought was soft, but the ice wall is actually much harder than you imagined?The claws of the crampons will be bounced off, and the body will lose its balance and fall. Even if there is a slight difference in height, when you step out without knowing it, it is the same as everyone almost falls at home. Grab the raisins from the pocket of the windbreaker and pop two or three into his mouth.Chew the raisins, chew them, and swallow them.In action, one must be diligent in replenishing energy. Digest it thoroughly, and can't even pass the feces. While thinking so, while chewing. While chewing, while climbing. Why climb a mountain? Fukamachi thought. Why do I want to climb up there? Do you think you will find any treasures on the mountain? Hanyu said that. Do you think you can get a good woman by climbing a mountain? Do you think you can find the value of survival by climbing mountains? Can't find it. Can't pick up anything on the mountain. If you can pick it up, it is something that exists in your heart. To put it bluntly, mountaineering may be an act of searching for the ore veins sleeping in one's heart.It was a journey to discover your inner self. Huh? Did I say "huh" just now? do not doubt! Focus on the present moment! After all right now, I'm climbing a mountain. Don't think of a reason! Can't find anything on the mountain-- I know that kind of thing all too well. So, why climb a mountain?Why do you actively choose to experience such painful things? Every time you take a step, you have to take three deep breaths repeatedly, out of breath. Why do you do this behavior? Hanyu said: Because I am here. He said: Because I am here, I climb the mountain. Like an answer, but not an answer. Not like an answer, but like an answer. Hanyu, why did you climb the mountain? You might know the answer, but I can't. I don't have an answer. Climbing a mountain because there are no answers? If you climb a mountain, will you find that answer at the top? Is that answer that shines like a jewel, the answer that is like a treasure, quietly placed in a secret room on the top of the mountain, or in a box buried in the snow? Impossible. No gems or answers. act? That being the case, is the act of going to the summit the answer? Today, I am doing it.Does it make sense to step out of this foot, kick the crampon claws into the hard ice wall, and lift your body up step by step?Is the answer in the act itself? I'm so stupid. He was thinking about something boring. Think about the most boring things. This is irrelevant. There is value in getting to the top. In the process, it doesn't make any sense at all to think about anything.Think about anything.It’s okay not to think about anything.Even if you think about the crotch of a woman, or the fairy kingdom in the sky, the key point is whether you have set foot on the peak.That's all, isn't it? Stepping to the top is a hero. If you haven't set foot on the peak, you're just scum. Worse than scum. If you die, nothing good will happen. Wait a minute. anyway. It’s not enough to climb a mountain. So, what do people live for? For what, work every day, earn money, live? Trying to think about the question "why climb the mountain", isn't it the same as asking "why live"? What do people live for? For what purpose do you live? wrong. wrong. Fukamachi, you are mistaken! not human. Nor anyone else. but you. Not a person, but why do you climb a mountain? What do you live for? Hey-- How stupid. Really stupid enough. Who said that the answer was not found on the top of the mountain? It doesn't matter who it is, but it's true.Nothing good can be picked up on the top of the mountain. That being the case, living is the same. 无论在任何地方，都找不到为了什么而活这个问题的答案。 That's right. 即使无法回答为了什么而爬山这个问题也无妨。 再说，逼人回答的人就必须先回答自己是为了什么而活。 如果答不出来，就不该问别人那种困难的问题。 Wait a minute. 问的不是别人。 not someone else.难道是我在问我自己吗？ 呿。 Hey-- 又在思考。 思考用不着思考的事。 明明另一个我拼死拼活地想让自己的身体往上爬，但另一个我却在思考无聊的事。 思考时下连学生都不会去思考的幼稚的事。 别再想了。 现在只要变成机器人就好。 踏出一步，喘五下，接着把左手的冰斧打进冰壁，再喘三下。然后拔出右手的冰杖，打进冰壁，再用另一只脚踏出一步。 变成能够正确反复这一连串动作的机器人就好。 否则的话，变成虫子也好。 不用思考任何事情的虫子。 只是一味往上爬的虫子。 哎，我在思考：不准思考！ 我在思考：可以不用思考。 我在思考：思考没有意义。 仔细想想，我既不是机器人，也不是虫子。 以人类——深町诚这个人格担任摄影师，和女人交往得不顺利，连摄影师这份工作也没有特别闯出轰轰烈烈的成绩。 纵然叫这种人变成机器人，也变不成机器人。即使叫他变成虫子，也变不成虫子。 目前，深町诚正在爬。 攀附在这面冰壁上。 身心万般纠葛，就这样整个人待在这里。那就是深町诚——这个我。 那就是现实。 既然如此，那个现实就是答案。 深町诚这个人，现在正在爬山——这样不就够了吗？ 我已经爬到哪里了呢？ gully——在英语是指陡峭的岩沟。法语是couloir，德语经常以runse、rinne称之。要从穿越这条中央岩沟的地方，选择另一条岩沟当作路线，从那里往上爬，那里以法语称为couloir。 像这样在一座山上使用各个国家的名称的情形，经常发生在喜玛拉雅山上。这是因为各种队伍进入同一座山，每次发现新路线，就会各自以自己国家的语言替那里命名。 我爬到这条中央岩沟的哪里了呢？ 中央岩沟的正中央一带吗？ 看高度计就会知道，但没办法那么做。要从口袋里拿出它也很麻烦。从口袋拿出来的，顶多是葡萄干或巧克力。因为如果不时常把巧克力或葡萄干放进嘴里，就会没命，但不看高度计也不会死。 八成已经超过七千公尺了。七千两百到七千三百——大概是在这一带。 距离灰色岩塔的底部，还剩下三、四百公尺。 相当于一栋半到两栋新宿摩天大楼的高度。 岩沟的宽度大概有八十公尺到一百公尺左右。拥有那么宽的宽度、海拔落差大约五百公尺的岩沟——那里塞满了结冻、坚硬的雪。 中央地带很危险。 那里是雪崩和落石的通道。 必须以轴线右方三十公尺做为路线。 超过七千公尺之后，停止动作喘气的时间变长了。 大概是将近刚才两倍的时间。 相机好重。 深町心想，为什么要带这么重的相机来呢？好想丢掉相机。 看见了灰色岩塔。 trum——在德语是指塔。 “灰色的塔”。 它宛如以灰色的岩石所形成的塔般，屹立于西南大岩沟出口的斜坡上。 高度大约三十公尺。 虽说是塔，并不是只有一座从岩壁中独自分离出来。 而是背后岩壁的一部分。 从那里往前，是难关之一的巨大岩壁——岩带。 岩带必须从位于其左侧的左岩沟攀越。 喘气，顺便回头隔着肩膀往下方望，看见了西谷的大雪原在遥远的下方。 自己已经身在和对面努布峰的左右棱线差不了多少的高度。 It's getting windy. 不知不觉间——真的是这种感觉。 猛然回神，自己的身体暴露在风中。而且，好像越往上爬，风势渐渐增强。 除此之外，还多了咳嗽。 因为反复以嘴巴剧烈呼吸，所以喉咙受损了。由于海拔变高，空气密度变得稀薄，空气中的水分自然减少。Air dry. 持续剧烈呼吸零下二十度以下的干燥空气，自然会变成那样。 咳嗽开始停不了。 几乎不停地干咳。 一咳嗽，那段期间呼吸就会变乱，咳完之后，就会更用力、更大口、更快速地呼吸空气。 在这种情况下，风势变得越来越强。 往左侧一看。 圣母峰的西棱几乎位在同高度。 棱线有的地方低于自己的高度，有的地方高于自己。那条棱线的对面就是西藏。 看见了雪烟从那条棱线剧烈地窜上高空。 Is it the wind? 那种风究竟是从什么时候开始刮起的呢？ 来自西藏那一边的风掀起雪烟，如今，正要吹到这面冰壁。 如果到达比西棱的棱线更高的地方，身体当然会暴露在至今被西棱挡住的风之中。 终于到达了那种高度。 置身于比圣母峰西棱更高处所刮起的风中—— 风仿佛要刮落所有攀附在冰壁上的事物似地变强了。 冰壁表面也冻得硬梆梆。被风摩擦的冰坡…… 那里受到阳光照射，闪闪发光。 The wind gradually increased. 不但如此，雪开始出现了。 漫天飞舞的不只是雪烟。 爬上西藏高原的风，攀越圣母峰的西棱时，接触到冷空气，在那里产生云。那片雪开始覆盖圣母峰顶。 心脏和背脊同时被用力勒紧的感觉，窜过深町的身体。 上方立刻因为那片雪而渐渐看不见。 原本羽生化为一个点出现在上方的身影看不见了。 深町心想，还有多远呢？ 还有多远呢？ 自从看不见上方之后，已经持续爬了一小时以上。 身在强风之中。 身体暴露在强风之中。 体温因强风而不断被夺走。 恐怕是零下二十五度的空气。 如果那种空气变成风打在人身上，体感温度会变成更低的数值。即使穿着风衣风裤，但寒冷的程度相当于处在无风状态下约零下三十度的环境中。 指尖正在失去感觉。 脸不迎风，面向反方向呼吸。以后脑勺受风，用下风侧的嘴巴呼吸、吐气。 一面反复这个动作，一面一步、一步地往上爬。 气息紊乱。 脚因为疲劳和寒冷而抬不起来。 还有多远呢？ 还要爬多远，才能抵达灰色岩塔呢？ 动不了。 终于动不了了。 如今，变成了勉强在冰壁途中保持平衡，不摔下去的状况。 what to do? 即使就这样不动，大概迟早也会因为脚尖没力，最后摔下去。 what to do? 深町问自己。 无法动弹。 越过圣母峰西棱而来的风，试图把深町从冰壁上扯下来。自己的身体和冰壁之间一旦产生一点缝隙，风就会钻进那里，让身体从冰壁浮起来。 脑袋也因为缺氧而变成昏昏沉沉。 no. Fukamachi thought. 他开始觉得……设法不被风刮走的那种行为也不再重要。 明明这么疲倦，你为什么还要那么努力呢？放开手摔下去，好获得解脱、得到休息。把身体交给重力。 深町觉得，这是个迷人的想法。 这个想法不差。 因为那样比较轻松。 令深町攀附在那面冰壁上的，是对于死亡的恐惧。 那种恐惧险些变淡。 如果恐惧消失，就只剩下义务感。 因为非紧紧抓住这里不可—— 那种心情变成心灵支柱。 决定紧紧抓住这里。所以紧紧抓住。坚守决定的事情到底，仅止于此。 但是，为何决定那种事？ 深町问自己。 为了保住一条命？ 如果不紧紧抓住，就会摔下去。 摔下去就会死。 所以，为了保住一条命而紧紧抓住。 为何为了保住一条命，要做那种事呢？ 因为不想死。 为何不想死呢？ 明明没有经历过死亡。 因为害怕。 Fear? 害怕死亡吗？ That's right. you're lying. 你现在并不害怕死亡。 或许你不想死，但你大概更不想在这种寒风中，紧紧抓住冰壁吧。 手脚疲惫不堪。 no feeling. 如果能够逃离这种痛苦，对于死亡的恐惧又算得了什么？ 那种呼吸是怎么回事？ 比现在吹来的风更狂乱、快速。 喉咙像野兽般发出呼噜呼噜的声音。 明明没有在动，但却像饥饿的野兽全力奔跑寻找完全不存在的猎物似地喘气。心脏会因为这种呼吸而磨损，和气息一起从嘴巴跑出体外！ 手臂、双腿都到了极限。 若不采取自我确保，就会摔下去。 然而，要在哪里采取自我确保？ 到处都是像石头一样的坚冰。 能将冰楔钉打进这种冰里吗？ 大概可以吧。 如果自己现在有更多体力，这里是顶多五千公尺——不，六千公尺的高度也可，在五、六千公尺的高度，然后没有风的话—— Hey-- 那种梦话之后再想吧。 回去之后—— 可以泡在热水里想，也可以在日本的居酒屋，和宫川边喝酒边想。That's right.之后再在日本想吧。啤酒就免了。我不想喝冰啤酒。最好是温热的酒。边喝那种酒边想。宫川，我说的没错吧？你想喝什么？你的故乡是新潟吧？那里有好酒，对吧？嗯，交给你决定。Everything is fine.至于下酒菜嘛，烤石鲈或烤鰤鱼下巴。不，熬煮成汤也不错。热呼呼的，冒着热气…… 快，快点点菜！ 喂…… 身体浮起来了。 左手的冰斧从冰壁脱落。 call…… 风声像野兽的吼叫声般打在耳朵上。 紧紧抓住冰壁。 那是幻觉。 差点摔下去。 哎，我刚才确实一心以为自己在日本。出神地听着居酒屋的喧嚣，闻着烤鱼的烟味，以及酱油的焦香味。 宫川那家伙就坐在身旁…… 深町咬牙切齿。 Oh shit! 再度把左手的冰斧打进冰壁。 再度把冰爪的前爪蹬进冰壁。 刚才，把大脑用于思考无谓的事情上了。 This is how the same thing? 思考代表使用大脑。使用大脑代表以大脑消耗氧。浪费氧—— 总之，要在这里采取自我确保，脚底下太过不稳。必须移动到脚底下更稳一点的地方。 我不晓得冰楔钉能够打进坚冰多深，但如今，只能那么做。打进冰楔钉，在那里采取自我确保休息，让肌肉休息。 在那段期间，等待风说不定会停止的奇迹。如果风不停止，自己大概会死在这里。 四周雪白一片。 风在耳畔呼呼咆哮。 至少找个脚底下稳固的地方。 喂…… there's noise. 这边…… 深町一看，有两个男人飘在一旁的白色空间。 明明身在强风之中，却纹风不动。 深町…… 其中一个男人说。 是井冈弘一。 另一个人是船岛隆。 他们身上带着登山用品。 我们帮你吧。 船岛说。 我替你捶冰楔钉。 因为冰斧很轻。不管用冰斧再怎么捶，也没办法把冰楔钉捶进冰壁寸许。 不用了，井冈哥。 船岛哥。 I will do it myself. 是喔，你要自己来啊，深町—— 嗯，自己来最好。 如果可以的话，自己的事自己来，这才叫做登山者。 是啊。 非自己来不可。 既然这样，喏，过来我们站的地方。 站在这里，从这里捶的话，很容易捶进去唷。 那，就那么办吧。 深町从冰壁抬起左脚，失去了平衡。 他拼命把左脚的冰爪前爪再次踢进冰壁。