From February to March, Uozu struggled with the thoughts of Shangshan.The thought of Kosaka still lying in the snow while he was in Tokyo made him restless.Sometimes in the apartment, when I suddenly woke up in the middle of the night, the figure of Kosaka appeared in my mind-lying on the snow with all four limbs stretched out, and the snow flakes kept falling on him.Every time this happened, he would get up and sit on the bed.
At this time, he was thinking of going up the mountain, as if Kosaka was calling, so he couldn't resist the idea of running to Maehotaka Snow Mountain.
In the past, I always went mountaineering with Kosaka in winter, but now I can only go alone.Of course, if he wanted to ask others to go, there were a few friends who would be willing to go with him, but he didn't want to go with these friends.It's like losing a wife and marrying another to fill in the house. I feel sorry for Kosaka.
And thinking that Kosaka's body was buried in the snow that he was about to step on, he felt that he had to go alone.
"Hey Kosaka, I'm coming!"
"Yo, long time no see!"
If the two want to have a conversation like this, anyone standing by will be in the way.
However, Uozu restrained his yearning for mountaineering.He had already caused Daisaku Tokiwa a lot of trouble, but now he had to ask for leave for going up the mountain—even if it was only for two or three days, it was hard to say.
And the company's work is also busy.In previous years, the period from January to March is the most idle quarter of the year, but this year the situation is different, probably due to the gradual improvement of the economy.The number of companies advertising in foreign newspapers suddenly increased dramatically.Ten years after the war, Japan's industrial circles have finally regained their vitality and began to open up markets in other countries. Uozu can clearly see this trend from his own business.
This was also confirmed by some news, namely, that there were two or three news in the major newspapers that an exhibition of Japanese products would be held overseas.This news is very beneficial to the work of the company.Uozu found out the manufacturers that exhibited products at these exhibitions, and then dispatched field staff to make appointments with these companies for quite large advertisements.
As much as Uozu wanted to go up the mountain, at least during his working hours, he was able to get rid of the idea because of the endless work.
News of the impending impact-response test of nylon ropes was published in mid-March.Several newspapers carried the news separately with rather eye-catching headlines.However, neither the dates nor the methods of the trials were published in detail.
When Uozu read these reports, he didn't think it was an incident related to him.
After the news was reported, Uojin received letters from seniors and juniors in the mountaineering industry and people from all walks of life.Some Uojin knew, and some didn't.
Before that, except for a very small number of people, most people didn't care much about the breaking of the climbing rope, but now when they heard that a large-scale experiment was going to be carried out, they all paid attention again.
Letters from people related to mountaineering mostly state their personal opinions on nylon climbing ropes, such as "The problem lies in the rock corners. I don't know how the ice and rock corners are on the sharp corners on the right surface of the rock?" Have you ever slept in the open, did the climbing ropes freeze because of it?" Letters such as doubts or reprimands are not clear.Some introduced in detail Liang Ji's experience in using nylon climbing ropes.
Two were from young scientists.One of the letters said: He used a microscope to examine the single fibers of seven or eight kinds of domestic and foreign nylon climbing ropes, measured their thickness, almost all of them were 0.4 mm, and studied their complex flexion.The letter details the differences between the two.Another letter said: He investigated the deformation state of the nylon climbing rope when it was broken by hand and when it was thwarted with a file.The person detailed the findings and attached three photographs taken through a microscope.
In short, both letters are professional investigations, so Uozu cannot understand the significance and intention of these experiments.
After the news was published in the newspaper, Uojin received visits from reporters from two or three newspaper offices and made a speech.He was worried that if he became the leading figure in the incident, he would put Tokiwa Dazuo in a difficult situation, so he tried to avoid showing his face as much as possible.But the problem has been made public in society, so as the central figure in the incident, he had to express his position.
Uozu's talk was published in three newspapers, and the content was the same:
How did the nylon climbing rope break?I don't think anyone in the world can answer this question right now.It is about the lives of mountaineers and should be resolved by scientific research, and laymen should not make too many comments.For this reason, I have great expectations for this experiment.At the same time, it is urgent to clarify the advantages and disadvantages of nylon climbing ropes through experiments, and then popularize the knowledge about using nylon climbing ropes.
Uozu spoke as tactfully and implicitly as possible.
A detailed report on the nylon rope test was published in a major newspaper at the end of March.
According to reports, the test will be carried out at the Tokyo factory of Sakura Rope Co., Ltd. by the seaside of Kawasaki City at 2 pm on April 3, and the test method is introduced in detail:
The 12mm and 24mm Manila hemp ropes and the 8mm and 11mm nylon ropes were used for the test on that day, a total of four kinds of climbing ropes.
One million yuan has been invested in the test site to build a ten-meter-high steel tower for the impact test of climbing ropes. The tower is equipped with two pieces of granite rock ridges that are carefully ground to 45 degrees and 90 degrees. .During the test, a 55-kilogram falling object (hammer) will be tied to both the hemp rope and the nylon rope, and then let it fall through the rock edge, so as to observe the reaction of various climbing ropes when they are impacted.Tests will be carried out at vertical angles of 70 degrees and 80 degrees.Also: the landing height will start from one meter, and then gradually increase by half a meter until the climbing rope breaks.
The host of the test was Mr. Daikyo Nosuke, director of Toho Chemical Plant, who supplied nylon yarn raw materials to Sakura Seisei Co., Ltd., which produced the nylon climbing rope that broke in Maehotaka Mountain.He has given lectures in applied physics at K University and is currently a key member of the Atomic Energy Research Society.
On the day the news was released, Daisaku Tokiwa seemed to have gone to Kawasaki to see the test site. As soon as he returned to the office in the evening, he patted Uozu on the shoulder, who was working on his desk, and asked, "What are your plans for the day on the 3rd?" ?going or not?"
"Go."
"Then let's go together." Then Tokiwa smiled again and said, "It seems that this time... Although it's not a great brain, it caused me a lot of trouble." Tokiwa was in a good mood.
"Since that time, have you seen Mr. Yatsushiro again?"
"I saw it today, at the test site."
"What did Mr. Yatsushiro say? I'm afraid he already knows it. Now that he has built the test equipment, I think he has done the test."
"Is this..." Hearing what Yujin said, Tokipan thought for a while and said, "Generally speaking, it can be considered this way, but it's not necessarily true for him. Maybe he won't do it until the day of the public experiment. How should I put him, lofty? Headstrong? In short, he cannot be judged by general standards. There are often such characters among engineers. But he is still a good person, at least not vulgar. Think about it, He said something like this, when he gets old, he will put banknotes in jars and bury them in the backyard."
According to reports, this year's spring is later than in previous years.True, it was already April, but the buds of the cherry blossoms near the apartment had not yet opened.On the third day, on the day of experimenting with nylon climbing ropes, Yujin left the residence without a Chunqiu coat, but felt chilly when he went outside, so he had to go back to the apartment and put it on again.The sky was clear and cloudless, and the sun was shining brightly, which is spring scenery, but the wind was still cold.
Uozu was in the office as usual, handling trivial matters throughout the morning.Check the advertising draft, write letters to several companies.Such chores are piled up like a mountain, and it is impossible to finish them.
Tokiwa didn't come to the office until almost noon, but he came and went out again, saying that he wanted to have dinner with people from the Osaka head office.He came back around one o'clock.
"It starts at two o'clock, let's go now." Tokipan said as soon as he entered the office.
"Okay, let's go." Uozu left the desk, took his coat, and followed Tokiwa out of the office.At this time, there were about a dozen employees working in the office, and no one spoke to them.It is impossible for the staff not to know that the nylon climbing rope test will be carried out today, but it seems that they deliberately adopt an attitude of not asking.
After hailing a taxi in front of the company, Tokiwa said, "In order to watch today's experiment, two people came from the head office, and six people from Sakura Seisero."
"It's a big fanfare," Uojin said.
"It needs a lot of fanfare. For Surura Seiko, no matter what, the climbing rope cannot be broken. You think, how can there be such a fool who spends a million yuan to conduct an experiment to prove that his product is not good? That's not only Sakura Sona, the head office will be embarrassed. However, the head office has only the manager. The manager will be in a difficult situation in front of Sakura Sona."
"What will happen?"
"I can't say what will happen. However, the manager will always be in trouble."
While speaking, the car passed Shinagawa Station and drove onto Keihin Highway.At this time, Tokiwa suddenly said thoughtfully: "Maybe it's better for you not to appear on the test field." Then he said: "Don't go! Once you show up, they may think that you intend to embarrass them. If you don't enter the scene, it may be more peaceful."
"Okay, then let's not go." Yujin obeyed him.I thought to myself that the climbing rope might break, and if it did, I would embarrass the people in the head office and the Sakura Rope Company if I was there. Maybe they would think that I was deliberately making fun of them.
"If you don't show up at the test site, what will you do? I'll get off at the test site, and then you will take this car back, how about it?"
"This..." Yujin didn't know how long the experiment would take, but he didn't want to go back to the office, "Or, I'll take a walk by the beach."
"It might take two or three hours."
"It's okay to waste this time."
"That's right. You like to spend days on the hills anyway."
"It's too harsh to talk about killing time!"
"I think it's about the same."
The car left the Keihin Highway and diverted along the road leading to Haneda Airport.When we got to the fork road that turned to the airport, we drove straight towards the factory area of Kawasaki City without turning.
After crossing the Master Bridge, we turned to the seaside ten minutes later.The wide asphalt road leads to the sea, and factories are scattered near and far on both sides of the road.
The car was parked in a place surrounded by concrete walls, but there were only two factory buildings in the wide field, which seemed empty.A sign next to the gatepost reads "Sakin Rope Tokyo Factory".It seems that the factory is still under construction, and there are several places where steel and wood are piled up on the field with weeds.Workers leveling the ground paced slowly around.
Standing at the gate of the factory and looking in, there are more than a dozen cars parked beside the factory building in the distance, and about 20 people are pacing nearby.The test frame may be over there, but it is too far away to be seen. Maybe the test site is set behind the factory building.
After getting out of the car, Yujin said, "Then I'll go to the beach to bask in the sun."
"The test is over, I will let the car drive over there."
After closing the door, the car immediately drove into the factory.
Uozu walked along the wide asphalt road at right angles to the coast, bathed in the spring sunshine.There were no other pedestrians on the road except for the workers' special buses with signs saying "to H Shipyard" or "to N Steel Pipe Plant" from time to time.
After walking for a while, a wilderness appeared on both sides of the road, and the factory buildings were scattered away from the road.The white oil storage tanks in the distance glistened in the sunlight.
When approaching the beach, Kawasaki's large factory area appeared at the end of the vast open space on the right.There are groups of cranes and chimneys, which look like a virgin forest from a distance.
I didn't expect such a beautiful beach on the coast.The fine waves lapped the sand gently.Some factory in this area is probably going to use it as a factory site. It is specially surrounded by barbed wire to prevent idlers from walking into the vast sandy beach.
Fortunately, there is not much distance between the end of the road and the coast, and standing there still feels like stepping on the beach.A concrete embankment separates the beach from the sea.
Uozu stood on the embankment for a while, looking at the sea beyond the flood embankment in the distance.There is a flat boat in the shape of a tanker on the sea, making the sound of an engine and sailing.Yujin looked at his watch, it was a little past two o'clock.Perhaps, he thought, the experiment was beginning now, but in any case, he had to spend about two hours here.
Yujin saw a withered thatch beyond the barbed wire fence, so he wanted to take a nap there.Although there was a sign saying "Do not enter the house", he thought that if he only used it for a short nap, he would not be scolded.
Uojin found a hole in the barbed wire, slipped in carefully not to snag his suit, and sat down on the grass.Then lie on your back.There is not a cloud in the sky, and the light blue sky is quite springy.A pair of white kites are flying leisurely with their wings spread.
Yujin thought, go to sleep.As soon as I close my eyes, the roar of machines in the factory area enters my ears.At first I thought it was the beating of waves, but after a while, I realized that it was the sound of countless machines coming from a distance.
The impact test of the nylon climbing rope related to itself is now being carried out.Uozu doesn't see it as a serious problem.Broken or broken climbing ropes, the result is a big problem that concerns him personally, but he doesn't worry or feel uneasy about it at all.The climbing rope is broken.This is what I personally experienced!Neither did he cut it off, nor did Kosaka cut it off.hell!There is no way for Kosaka to cut it off.It was the climbing rope that broke due to its own weakness.
Bai Yuan was still flying leisurely above her head.Sleepiness hit Yujin.Since his student days, the drowsiness of a healthy person, which he has not experienced for many years, has gradually brought his consciousness to a distant place.
After an unknown amount of time, Yujin was awakened by the continuous sound of car sirens.
Uojin stood up, and the car parked on the road about twenty meters away from him and Daisaku Tokiwa standing beside the car came into view.
"Manager!" Yujin shouted, standing up from the grass.
Daisaku Tokiwa probably spotted Uozu at a glance, raised his right hand lightly, and said something at the same time, but his voice was blown away by the wind and could not be heard.When I was lying on my back on the thatched grass just now, there was no phoenix, but now the wind is blowing.
Tokiwa was standing with his back to Uozu, lighting a cigarette.Uozu walked towards the hole in the wire fence in order to get onto the road.
At this time, Yujin noticed that the sun had already slanted far west.I looked at my watch and it was four o'clock.If the watch is to be believed, it means that after sleeping for two full hours, even I can hardly believe it.But the sun had indeed set, and it was stained red and black by the black smoke from countless distant chimneys.Uozu felt that it was some kind of ominous sign.Looking at the sea, on this side of the flood barrier, there are two same oil tankers as before, making the sound of engines, and moving nervously.
Uozu got out of the wire fence and approached Daisaku Tokiwa who was still standing beside the car.Tokiwa didn't turn his face to Uozu, but turned his eyes to the sea.
"Manager, I'm sorry!" Yujin apologized for falling asleep.
Only then did Tokiwa turn his face around, glared at him with a somewhat stern look, made a moaning sound like "Mmm...", and then asked, "Are you sleeping?"
"yes."
"You kid is so leisurely!" He said again: "Go back."
Yujin asked, "How is the experiment going?"
Tokiwa did not answer this question, but said: "Yatsushiro Konnosuke is an upright person, I can trust him. You should trust him too, can you trust him?"
"Of course I trust."
"It's good if you can trust. If you trust, don't be dissatisfied with the test results. Let me tell you, the climbing rope is not broken. It is even stronger than Manila hemp rope." Daisaku Tokiwa spoke slowly, and then opened the car door with his own hands. "Get in the car!"
Uojin obediently got into the car first.
After the car door was closed, Uozu felt that a serious situation was approaching him, but he said in a calm tone that he did not know where he came from: "The climbing rope is not broken, is it?"
"right."
"The climbing rope is broken! The climbing rope is not broken, which means..."
The unbroken climbing rope was like a black cloud slowly spreading in Yujin's mind.
"The climbing rope is not broken, which means there is another reason for the broken rope." Then the self-disciplined voice became trembling and resentful. "How is this possible, it makes no sense!"
"Don't get excited." Tokiwa's deep voice interrupted Uozu. "As a result of the test, the climbing rope didn't break. I thought it would, but it didn't. What should have broken didn't. It might happen."
"This is impossible."
"But this happened."
"Something might have gone wrong."
"Maybe it was a mistake, but anyway, it happened. This is a real problem. I believe in the character of Todai Gyonosuke, so I also believe in his experiment. As a result of his experiment, the climbing rope did not break. "
"But, manager!"
Tokiwa ignored him, and just continued: "You should also believe in the character of Yashiro Konosuke. You are not allowed to have an objection to this experiment. Can it be done?"
Yujin remained silent.If you tell him to believe it, he will believe it right away. Uozu cannot do this. "But……"
"Don't be wordy!"
"But……"
"What can't be done!" Tokiwa's tone was tough. "Believe it! You just have to believe it, no need to be wordy!"
"It's so unreasonable!"
"It doesn't make sense? Just before I got in the car, I asked you if you believed in Yashiro Konosuke. Didn't you say you did? Could it be a lie! Don't count your words, manly man."
"Man, I believe it."
"Believe in a person, you also have to believe in what he does. As a result of the experiment, the climbing rope didn't break! That's it! No, you can't say yes, but there is no way. If you don't believe in the experiment, the problem will start from The climbing rope is transferred to other things. You have to honestly believe the results of today's test. This does not mean your failure. It didn't break on the test site, but it broke on the mountain."
"People in society don't think that way."
"Maybe people in the society don't think so, but I think so. I'm the only one who thinks this way. You're not satisfied, aren't you?"
Uozu noticed that Daisaku Tokiwa's hands were trembling on his knees like a cramp.
"It's not easy for a person to trust others. But I want you to do this. I'm not telling you to do anything wrong. Neither I nor you can trust Yashiro Gyonosuke. It's just the occasional experiment he presides over. The result was unexpected for some reason. If I had known this, I would not have persuaded you or asked others to conduct experiments. But now, it is too late to regret. Your situation will definitely be more difficult. People in the society Your opinion is pure, so the results of the experiment may put you in a difficult situation, which is helpless. From now on, you are already facing a new reality that is different from the past, and you are in a situation that is even colder than the ice wall of Mount Hodaka before. You have to be fully prepared for this situation. You won’t wait until tomorrow, maybe the evening papers will be yelling at you when you return to the company today. But it’s nothing! The climbing rope is broken on the mountain Yes, this is what you experienced firsthand."
Uozu had never seen Daisaku Tokiwa look so pale when he spoke.If it's time, Tokiwa is always so enthusiastic when talking with others, staring straight into the other's eyes.But now, he was blowing his beard and staring.
Yujin remained silent.He knew that the development of the situation would be unfavorable to him, but he failed to fully understand the true meaning of Tokiwa's words.
Tokiwa made me believe in the character of Ren Daijiao, and also made me believe in the experiment he conducted today.This means that I am unconditionally convinced of the results of the experiment.As for the breaking of the climbing rope on the mountain, just take it as a fact, and you can know it in your own mind-probably that is what it means.
"But," Yujin said again. "It's actually unimaginable that the climbing rope didn't break."
"That's why I used the word 'to believe'. I want you to believe Yatsushiro Gonnosuke! You just have to believe in him. In this case, you must not have half a word of doubt about the experiment. If you show such Speech, I will not spare you! When I was on the mountain, the climbing rope was indeed broken, I believe it! I believe in you, so you should also believe in Yatsushiro Konosuke! Remember!"
Tokiwa solemnly told him again.Cars are driving in traffic on Keihin Highway.The sky above the city is white, and the spring dusk comes silently.
On the way back to the company, when passing Pinzhou Station, Tokiwa stopped the car and asked the driver to buy an evening paper.The driver bought several evening newspapers, but none of them reported the results of the climbing rope test.
"It seems that it hasn't had time to be published in the evening paper. However, it is almost four o'clock when the positive result of the test is obtained today." Tokiwa said.
When the car arrived in front of the company, Tokiwa got out of the car first, and when Yujin got off the car, he said, "Go home early today. I don't know what will be written in the morning paper tomorrow. Let's talk about everything after reading the morning paper. Tomorrow morning I will Go to work early; come early, too."
"Got it." Yujin replied.The two took the elevator inside to the third floor.
When he got out of the elevator, Tokiwa ordered again: "It's best to go back right away. It's troublesome to meet journalists. After returning home, don't express doubts about the experiment itself when journalists visit. Be careful about this. .” When Tokiwa pushed open the door, he cast a final glance at Uozu.
"I understand."
As soon as Yujin entered the office, he immediately sorted out the things on his desk and got ready to go home.There were five or six staff members working in the office, and Shimizu was also there, but no one asked him about the results of the experiment, maybe they were avoiding it on purpose.
"I'm leaving first." Yujin said this to Qing Shui and walked out of the office.
When he came to the road, there was no one else around, Uozu walked aimlessly on the sidewalk through the Hibiya intersection, and then walked straight ahead.Except for the sidewalk where Uozu walks, there are cars all around.The flow of traffic was like a flood.But Yujin's mood at the moment is like walking alone on the mountain. Sometimes he feels that his feet are not stable, so he stops and mumbles unconsciously: "Climbing rope!"
Yet he did not despair.Because it has not been reported in the newspaper, he still does not feel the reality of the unexpected test results.
That night, as soon as Uozu returned to the apartment, he drank half a bottle of domestic whiskey in a small bottle, and then went to bed early as usual.He amused himself at being so docile as his parents ordered him.However, I was still a little uneasy, and woke up twice during the night.Both times before three o'clock.
When I woke up for the third time, it was already dawn outside, and white light shone into the room through the gap in the curtains, and it was already six o'clock.
Uojin got up together, put a spring coat on top of his pajamas, and went downstairs to get the morning newspaper.Opening the door, he took out a stack of messily stuffed newspapers from Abang's mailbox.
Yujin returned to the house, opened the curtains, and stood by the window with newspapers spread out.Uozu himself ordered only one R newspaper, but he brought all the other newspapers, and he planned to ask for their understanding later.
Uozu flipped through the social sections of each newspaper one by one. Words such as "the first impact test of nylon climbing rope", "strength several times stronger than hemp rope", "to investigate mountaineering accidents", "explain the performance of nylon climbing rope" and other words flew into Yujin's eyes one after another. .Some are listed in the first column, with photos attached; some titles occupy only one line, and are arranged in the corner, and the photos are also posted separately, including snapshots, cross-sections of climbing ropes, and the head portrait of Yashiro Gyonosuke .
Yu Jintong read the report. R newspaper reported the most detailed.
Granite and steel rings ground into 90-degree and 45-degree corners were used in the test.Twenty-one impact tests were carried out on four kinds of climbing ropes made of hemp and nylon; on the angular granite, a test of sliding at a 20-degree incline; The sub was subjected to three impact tests.In total, twenty-eight types of tests were conducted.
First, on a 90-degree corner, test a 12mm Manila hemp rope—attach a 55-kilogram hammer to one end of a climbing rope two meters away from the corner, and then drop it from a height of one meter , the result is one-touch breaking.The 11mm thick and 3.5m long nylon climbing rope was broken only after falling one meter above the corner.This means that it is several times stronger than hemp rope.It was originally estimated that the reason for the death on Mount Qianhotao was that the nylon climbing rope could not withstand the sharp rock corners.But the experiment yielded unexpected results.
The test results of the eight-millimeter nylon climbing rope used at the time of the death of Mt. Former Hotaka also showed that it has considerable tensile strength against impacts and edges and corners. , also not broken.
But that same nylon climbing rope becomes brittle if soaked in water.Hang the 8mm rope from the steel ring as the fulcrum for about two and a half lengths, and then drop it from a height of two meters.The 11mm rope was dropped for three and a half meters from a 45-degree rock angle, and then dropped from a height of four and a half meters. The test results all broke.
The R newspaper made the above report on the test results, and finally used this wording to make a conclusion. "In the original imagination, it was believed that the accident on the former Hodaka mountain slope was due to the impact of the rock corner, but now it seems unlikely."
According to the s newspaper report:
The fibers of the nylon climbing rope have been inspected by X-rays, and the molecular structure is intact.In terms of impact resistance, knot strength, cold resistance, etc., it is much stronger than Manila hemp rope after testing.But if it is rubbed or hit in the horizontal direction on the rock corner of the tax, it is very easy to break.
Drop resistance, after testing, nylon climbing group is three times stronger than Manila hemp rope.The eight-millimeter nylon climbing rope that had been broken in the former Hotaka Mountain was loaded with a load of 55 kilograms from a height of two meters, and it did not break after falling and hitting.Compared with Manila rope, its breaking limit at acute angle is 65 kg to 20 kg.
An 11mm nylon climbing rope was hung on a 45-degree sharp-angled stone, tied with a 55kg hammer, and dropped from a height of 3 meters, but it did not break.However, as a result of rubbing back and forth on the three files with a 20-kilogram hammer, the Manila rope broke after 110 times, while the nylon climbing rope broke after only 10 times.
Uozu read the news reports in the silvery morning sun.After reading it, I felt wrong.Because it was done on a proving ground, he couldn't point out where it went wrong, but he thought it was different from what actually happened.
After reading the reports of several newspapers, the unanimous conclusion is that in the incident that occurred in the former Hotaka mountain.Nylon climbing ropes probably didn't break from being hit on tax point rocks.The most prudent is the o report.The newspaper did not draw conclusions from the experiments, but asked members of the mountain department of various universities in Tokyo to discuss the advantages and disadvantages of nylon climbing ropes.Such as:
"The superior performance of nylon climbing rope is especially remarkable in the snow-covered period. The impact resistance strength when falling has been preliminarily clarified through this test, but the resistance to sharp rock angles or heat generated by friction is not as good as that of hemp rope. In addition to this It is hoped that further research will be conducted in this area." (K University)
"We use the 11mm thick ones sold by the U.S. military. Nylon climbing ropes are good in terms of light weight, no sticky snow and no freezing. The disadvantage is that the rope will be stretched when going down a steep slope; Double gloves are too slippery and difficult to grasp; friction with rock corners will cause hair, etc. It is said that when they climbed Qiande Gaoshan, they used an 8mm rope, and it should be more than 11mm or 12mm." (M University)
"Under low temperature conditions, changes in physical properties may occur and become brittle. The tensile strength is strong, but it is not wear-resistant. When it is broken by impact, the section will melt, because it is afraid of heat, and the fracture may be related to heat. It is related. We use two 30-meter-long Swiss-made mountaineering ropes. The above are opinions on domestic products. In Switzerland, where nylon mountaineering ropes have been used for many years, I have never heard of nylon mountaineering ropes. Argue." (University of T)
"The advantages are: it does not harden when it is wet by water or snow; it is light in weight and easy to carry; it is elastic and will stretch when it is tightened. The disadvantages are: it is easy to slip when going down a steep slope with double gloves; it is expensive; When climbing a wall, if the climbing rope gets caught in the rock, it is impossible to know what happened to another person who is tied to the same rope.” (University of H)
"We have 390-meter-long nylon climbing ropes made in China and Switzerland, but they are not fully utilized in winter. We have used them on the ridge of Mt. Hotaka, and the domestic ones are not wear-resistant. The above are only the shortcomings." the University)
The members of the mountain department of each university made an appointment in advance not to talk directly about the test results, and kept silent about the problem of nylon climbing ropes constantly breaking with regard to the incident on Mt. Hotaka.Just based on my own mountaineering experience, I talked about the advantages and disadvantages.In the end, he was the first-line mountaineering athlete, and he didn't say a single wrong word, but he didn't express his positive support for the former Hodaka incident.
Uozu took the newspaper back to the management office on the ground floor, got into bed again, and closed his eyes.
Uojin wanted to think about the meaning of the few news reports he had just read.What are those reports trying to tell readers?
The impact test was carried out on the nylon climbing rope and the hemp rope. Through the test, the strength of the two was compared. The result clarified that for the impact on the rock corner, the nylon climbing rope is several times stronger than the hemp rope: but the nylon climbing rope is afraid of heat. So also afraid of friction.
The reason for the broken nylon rope caused by myself and Kosaka on the east slope of Qiansui Peak was not the impact on the rock corner, but another reason should be found.Such as lack of knowledge of nylon climbing ropes, or poor mountaineering techniques, which caused essentially avoidable accidents.In other words, the reason for the breakage of the climbing rope should be found from these aspects-such as letting the climbing rope rub against the rock corner or getting the climbing rope wet.
No, there was no friction!It wasn't wet either!Uozu groaned inwardly.The accident happened at the moment when Kosaka slipped.The scene at that moment clearly appeared in front of Uozu's eyes - Kosaka was clinging to the rock about five meters above the slope, and was stretching the climbing rope hook on the rock above his head; the space around him And the rock wall, as clean as if it had been washed, shone with a cold luster.
There is a problem with the test!Yatsushiro Konosuke, maybe as Tokiwa Daisaku said, you can trust him, and I can trust him myself.But the experiments he made were of no use in clarifying the truth of the incident.That's just to illustrate the advantages and disadvantages of nylon climbing rope performance by comparing with hemp rope, what else is there!It is just to re-confirm the performance of nylon climbing ropes that mountaineers have known for a long time.
However, after the impact reaction test, it was proved that the nylon climbing rope was several times stronger than the hemp rope, which was fatal to Yujin.
Yujin continued to lie on the bed for about two hours, and did not get up until eight o'clock.After washing his face, he poured milk into his stomach for breakfast, changed into a suit and went to work.
It was nine o'clock when the office door was opened.I usually go to work at half past nine.Because Tokipan told him to go to work early today, he complied and came half an hour earlier than usual.The room was empty, and I saw Chang sitting cross-legged on the chair in front of the desk by the window, leaning slightly and reading a newspaper.Except for Tokiwa, no one came to work yet.
Seeing Uozu, Tokipan asked, "Have you read the newspaper?" His tone was not pleasant. "Read the newspaper, what do you think?"
"It's embarrassing!" Yujin answered him.
"Are you not convinced?"
"Not convinced!"
"However, I think it's okay to write like that. I just have to let it go. No one blamed you, and didn't say you were lying. I thought they would be more mean to you."
"The same! The impact on the rock corner, the nylon climbing rope is several times stronger than the hemp rope, and it will not break easily-that's what the experiment said."
"That's true."
"None of them support my point. The Kosaka slipped, the climbing rope snapped — it just doesn't make sense anymore."
"However, if you think about it, neither you nor I expected the result to be like this. At this point, we have to let it go. There is no other way. In this way, Sakura Rope Co., Ltd. will have face. Let them Let's save face."
"But, my face is over."
"Indeed, you can't save face. The climbing rope won't break easily, so there is another reason. What is the other reason?" Tokipan said, as if asking Yujin for an answer.
"There may be two views in the society: one is that I cut the climbing rope because I was afraid of death; the other is that there is something wrong with the operation technique."
"only these?"
"I think it's just these two. However, both views must be denied. In fact, I didn't cut it, and I believe that there is nothing wrong with the operation of the climbing rope. Also, I must let the majority It is my duty for mountain climbers to correctly understand nylon climbing ropes. If I don’t do this, I will feel sorry for Kosaka who passed away. For this reason, I demand to admit the facts.”
"Well, I understand... But, is there any reason why the climbing rope broke that even you haven't thought of?"
"No."
"For example, the little trash cut it off by himself..."
"Where are you talking about!" Yujin couldn't help raising his voice. "There is absolutely no such thing!"
“没有就好，没有就好。不过，我担心的是会不会出现连你都不知道的原因啊——譬如从尸体上找出了遗嘱。也许你会认为我这是异想天开。可是，既然八代教之助的试验没有差错，而你的话又没有错，那就势必要另找登山绳断裂的原因才行。为了这个，我才怕你发表对这次试验表示怀疑的言论的。”常盘大作象是要说服对方。
鱼津露出几分悲伤的神情，注视着好心对待自己的上司。
Notes:
Notes: