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Chapter 20 Section 3 National Exchanges

Ancient Chinese Food Culture 林乃燊 1911Words 2018-03-20
National integration and cultural exchanges between China and foreign countries are historical processes independent of people's will.From the Han Dynasty to the Tang Dynasty in China, it was the peak period of ethnic integration and cultural exchanges between China and foreign countries.In terms of food culture, this kind of blending and communication is more prominent.As early as before the Han Dynasty, the food cultures of the Huaxia and Baiyue peoples had been blended for a long time. The Eight Treasures of the Zhou Dynasty were the crystallization of the food of the Huaxia people and represented the food system of the Loess Plateau; " menu and the recipes listed in Yuan Mei's "Qifa" and Huan Kuan's "Yalt and Iron Theory" represent the diet system dominated by the Baiyue people in the south of the Yangtze River.The above-mentioned dishes have established the basic recipes of the early Chinese nation.During the Han and Jin Dynasties, "Qiang boiled 貊 [mo Mo] broiled" became a delicacy on Chinese banquets. "Qiang cooking" refers to a kind of beef and mutton soup dishes such as mutton boiled, shabu sandan (beef, sheep veal) and stewed beef and mutton, represented by the Qiang people in the northwest region; Wei Wei] A series of grilled dishes such as roasted whole lamb and roasted beef tenderloin (beef tenderloin) represented by Jiren.During this period of time, the Baiyue people's "rice soup with rice soup and fish" (eat rice, fish, shrimp and seafood as vegetable soup) has gradually become favored by all ethnic groups in the Central Plains and the north.Litchi and longan from Lingnan, grapes and cantaloupe from Xinjiang have also become famous all over the country.The habit of drinking tea in the south of the Yangtze River also spread to the north during this period.Soybeans are produced in the north, and tofu series products are created in the south, which is a concrete manifestation of the fusion of North and South food cultures.

Cultural exchanges between China and foreign countries were very active during this period.After Zhang Qian traveled to the Western Regions, the land silk road was opened up, and grapes, alfalfa, pomegranates, rose apples, and coriander (coriander) from Central Asia were transplanted to China;Chinese ceramic tableware was passed to the West; Western glazed and agate tableware was passed to China.China's sauces, tofu and tea spread to Japan, North Korea and Southeast Asian countries; Southeast Asian pepper, cardamom, jackfruit, etc. spread to China. Before the Han Dynasty, Chinese people used short tables to hold food while eating, and people sat on the floor, which is the same as the Japanese sitting style now.During the Wei and Jin Dynasties, high-footed "Hu chairs" and "Hu beds" were imported from Central Asia and were loved by Chinese people. Since then, sitting on chairs and eating at high-legged dining tables has gradually become the habit of Chinese people.The introduction of Buddhism and Islam into China has promoted the formation of Chinese vegetarian and Muslim cuisines.These are all clear examples of the communication of food culture between China and foreign countries in the Middle Ages.

From the late feudal period until modern times, cultural exchanges between China and foreign countries continued.The "Zhancheng rice" imported into China in the Song Dynasty is a fine variety of indica rice, which quickly spread in the south. People in Lingnan mistakenly called all indica rice "Zhanmi", and this name is still used today. The hometown of mango and loquat is in China, and Oracle has already " "(杧, that is, awn), there are still wild mango trees in Xishuangbanna today. The history books of the Han and Jin Dynasties call loquat "Luju". Today, some rural dialects in Lingnan still call loquat "Luju". It is called mango in English. It is called "mango", and loquat is called "Loquat" (Luju), which are all translated from Chinese. Oranges are originally produced in Lingnan and passed to Sichuan, where they are called "Guanggan". Later, they spread to the United States, and the improved American Oranges are sold all over the world. Kiwi is also a native fruit in China. After being introduced to New Zealand, it has been improved and sold all over the world.

China is the hometown of tea. It was introduced to Central Asia by the Huihe people in the Tang Dynasty, and then gradually spread to Western countries.The tea drinking habit in Japan and Southeast Asia was also passed down from China in the Tang Dynasty. Before the 19th century, the tea market in the world was monopolized by China. In the 1920s and 1930s, the Netherlands and the United Kingdom tried to grow tea in their colonies in order to compete for the world tea market. At that time, India, Ceylon (now Sri Lanka) and Java successively imported tea species and tea-making technology from China. They rushed to catch up, and for nearly a century, they have become a major exporter of tea. In the 18th and 19th centuries, Russia and Japan also introduced Chinese tea. By the beginning of this century, Russia was close to self-sufficiency in tea; Japan had already become a major exporter of tea.

Some species, such as chestnuts, sesame, peanuts, broad beans, garlic, and sweet potatoes, have long been misrepresented as being imported from foreign countries, but they are actually native to China.As early as 6,000 years ago in the Yangshao Neolithic cultural layer, carbonized chestnuts have been unearthed, which shows that chestnuts are native nuts in China.Many mountainous areas in North China, the Yanshan area and Liangxiang near Zhoukoudian have been the famous chestnut production bases in China since ancient times.Sesame, peanuts, and broad beans have been unearthed in the Qianshanyang Neolithic cultural site as early as 5,000 years ago; semi-fossilized peanuts from the Shang Dynasty were also unearthed in Hunan, and peanuts were also unearthed in the tomb of Emperor Han Jing.Garlic has been recorded in the earliest agricultural book "Xia Xiaozheng" (written before the Warring States period) in China.Sweet potato has specific records on its properties and eating methods in "Qi Min Yao Shu".It can be seen that these crops are all native to China.Of course, it cannot be ruled out that fine varieties of garlic and broad beans were imported in the Han Dynasty; fine varieties of peanuts and sweet potatoes were imported in the Ming Dynasty, and then quickly multiplied in China.

After the Opium War, China was stuck in opening up, customs sovereignty was left behind, national industries were destroyed, imperialist political, economic, and cultural aggression followed one after another, and the country declined, which aroused the Chinese people to fight against imperialism time and time again. The feudal struggle shocked the whole world.During this period, spontaneous economic and cultural exchanges between the Chinese people and the people of other countries were still developing.During this period, China's tea, ceramic tableware, iron pots, bean paste, and sucrose were all exported in large quantities.Condiments and medicinal materials from Southeast Asia and North Africa, such as pepper, cardamom, cinchona, dried blood, rhino horn, etc.; famous specialties from abroad, such as scallops from Japan, bird’s nest and shark’s fin from Southeast Asia, abalone from Mexico, etc. China.Corn cultivated by Indians was imported into China in the Ming Dynasty and gradually became an important food crop in China's dry land.Since the Ming and Qing Dynasties, as batches of overseas Chinese immigrated overseas, Chinese restaurants have gradually sprung up all over the world.

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