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Chapter 15 The second section tea rhyme

Ancient Chinese Food Culture 林乃燊 4963Words 2018-03-20
Tea comes into the world with a faint fragrance, adding infinite interest to human life. Respecting guests with tea or using tea as a medium for various humanistic activities can enhance a warm and peaceful atmosphere, so tea has become a peace messenger in interpersonal relationships . The colorful color, fragrance, taste and shape of tea make it have special artistic character and cultural quality.It has many categories, which can be divided into five categories according to its production method: (1) Green tea (including green tea and white tea).The picked fresh tea leaves are dried at high temperature without fermentation, and are dried by frying, baking, and drying.This kind of tea is fresh and light, and there is a leisurely aftertaste of olive or Rennianzi after drinking.

(2) Black tea (including Pu'er, Lu'an, etc.).Dried after withering and fermentation.This kind of tea soup is bright red in color, and the emblic of longan (dried longan meat) or chestnut is left on the teeth and cheeks after drinking.If milk and sugar are added, the tea tastes more sweet and mellow.The lychee black tea roasted with lychee juice is even more unique. (3) Oolong teas (including rock tea, Dancong, Tieguanyin, Narcissus, etc.).After lightly withering and semi-fermenting, and then killing and drying, it is called oolong tea, also known as semi-fermented tea, because it becomes strips after drying, resembling a black dragon.The quality and flavor of this kind of tea combine the freshness of green tea and the mellowness of black tea, leaving the fragrance of orchid or lotus on the cheeks after drinking.

(4) scented tea.With green tea or oolong tea as the base material, mixed with various fragrant flowers such as jasmine, magnolia, rose, pearl orchid, wintersweet, etc., it is baked into a variety of scented teas.This kind of tea has both tea flavor and floral aroma, and makes people feel refreshing after drinking. (5) Pressed tea (including all kinds of brick tea and tuo tea).After the tea leaves are greened and fermented, they are autoclaved into sauce-black cakes or bricks and dried, commonly known as brick tea.This kind of tea is rich in flavor and slightly sweet and astringent, which is best for digestion.Add ghee or milk to cook together, and it will become fragrant butter tea or milk tea. This kind of tea has become an ideal drink for quickly replenishing calories and maintaining acid-base balance in alpine regions. This drinking method is popular in pastoral areas or alpine mountainous areas.

Divided from the shape of the tea, there are silver needles (such as pekoe), curly hair (such as Biluochun), sliced ​​tea (such as Longjing), pearl tea (green tea twisted into round beads), strip tea (such as various types of oolong tea) ), broken tea (teabag), cake tea, brick tea and so on. In terms of color, there are green tea, black tea, white tea, green tea (such as big-leaf green tea), brown tea (such as oolong tea, some people classify oolong tea as green tea, which is easy to confuse with green tea), yellow tea (such as Mengding tea) , dark tea (such as brick tea) and so on. There are hundreds of famous tea production bases in China, some of which have a history of more than 1,000 years, such as Guzhu Zisun in Huzhou, Zhejiang and Mengding Stone Flower in Yazhou (now Ya’an) in Sichuan, which have been famous since the Tang Dynasty.There are too many other famous tea production bases across the centuries, such as Biluochun in Suzhou Dongting Mountain, rock tea in Wuyi Mountain in Fujian and Tieguanyin in Anxi, Dancong in Phoenix Mountain in Guangdong, Longjing in Hangzhou Shifeng, and Junshan in Dongting Lake in Hunan. Yinzhen, Lushan Yunwu in Jiangxi, Yandang Maofeng in Zhejiang, Huangshan Maofeng and Keemun black tea in Anhui, Pu'er and Dianhong in Yunnan, Jinxuan, Cuiyu and Dongding Oolong in Taiwan, etc., all have their own special flavors. type, well-known far and wide.All kinds of tea bases have a unique alpine cloud and mist climate with high relative humidity. The tea gardens are located on the south slopes, with a lot of diffuse light and a large temperature difference between day and night, which is conducive to the accumulation of organic matter and the formation of nutrients in tea.These natural conditions and the unique fertile soil of the tea garden itself, coupled with the scientific methods of growing and making tea, can produce tea with high quality and high aroma.All kinds of famous teas are mostly connected with famous mountains and famous springs. The green tea gardens are located in the environment of hills, valleys, pine winds, clear springs and turbulent environment. A place for tea tasting.

The tea in the cup is also colorful: pick up a cup of Longjing or Shoumei, the fragrance is lingering, the tea soup is clear green, and the tea buds stretch out, like a bunch of small shrimps jumping in the clear waves; Scattered, forming a scene in the cup; the strips of tea are scattered when brewing, like a red robe swinging in the warm sunshine;...these wonderful scenes in the cup are pleasing to the eye.A cup of fragrant tea can exert a subtle effect, so that the dry mouth can be moisturized, the tired can be refreshed, the irritable can be relieved, the confused can be inspired, the tired can relieve fatigue,... The national traditional catalase agent, which is unmatched by any other beverage.

In interpersonal relationships, whether entertaining guests in the living room, drinking tea in a tea house, or drinking together at a tea party, a warm and elegant atmosphere will naturally form, which is conducive to spiritual communication. Since ancient times, in Chinese social life, there have been various "tea"-themed gatherings, which first took place among scholar-bureaucrats. They either recited poems or wrote poems together; Get together; or clean up the dust for relatives and friends, and get together for farewell;... This kind of tea gathering, from the tea set to the beautification of the tea drinking environment, from the skill of cooking tea to the artistry and etiquette of drinking, gradually forms a standard of life, which has produced Various "tea ceremony" (combining tea drinking with mind-cultivation and spiritual integration) and "tea art" (stylized and artistic tea drinking process).This group activity of meeting friends with tea became popular among the literati in the Tang and Song dynasties, and when it spread to Japan, it became the Japanese tea ceremony.China's "tea ceremony", as a part of tea customs, was mainly popular among leisured scholar-bureaucrats from the Tang Dynasty to the Ming Dynasty.Because this kind of tea ceremony pays too much attention to form, it gradually becomes a kind of red tape. With the development of urban economy, the popular tea custom combining commodity economy and regional folk customs gradually became the mainstream, and the "tea ceremony" of scholars gradually declined.

For many centuries, tea has been almost ubiquitous in Chinese social life and social occasions.It can be both a protagonist and a supporting role.As far as the teahouses (or teahouses, teahouses, tea rooms, teahouses, teahouses, teahouses, tea gardens, etc.) as the protagonists are concerned, only in the Han area, there are four styles of Beijing style, Su style, Cantonese style and Sichuan style. big type.These types have already surpassed the local area, appearing interlaced in various places.All types have distinct personalities and their own historical origins.A brief description is as follows:

Beijing style is the combination of teahouse and folk art.This is an old tradition since the Song Dynasty. While tasting tea, customers listen to folk art, storytelling or a cappella, which makes people immersed in the charm of melodious and sipping.The Laoshe Teahouse in Beijing today is a typical representative of this kind of teahouse.In such teahouses in the north, such as Beijing, Xi’an, Kaifeng and other cities, most of them have the characteristics of northern folk art, and most of them are high-pitched melodies of urgent pipes and strings and percussion instruments; in such teahouses in the south, such as Suzhou, Chengdu, Guangzhou, etc. etc., are mostly melodious and melodious orchestral music.This combination of tea tasting and music appreciation is not only a kind of active rest, but also a kind of elegant cultural enjoyment, which is very popular among the masses.

Su-style teahouses of this kind have developed with the development of Suzhou gardens in the past thousand years, that is, the combination of drinking tea and enjoying the scenery.This kind of teahouse is the most widely distributed, all over the country's scenic spots and large and small parks, stepping into them, tasting tea while admiring the scenic spots, makes people blend into a kind of Taoist taste.When you walk into the Longjing teahouse in Hangzhou, you can taste the pure and delicious authentic Longjing tea brewed from the Longjing spring, and at the same time you can appreciate the charm of the bamboo and birds in the tea town.The cruise ship in Guilin is a kind of dynamic tea boat. When you sit on the cruise ship on the Li River, you can taste the sweet-scented osmanthus tea from Guangxi while enjoying the green peaks of fish eagles on the Li River. You will be completely intoxicated by this poetic and picturesque scene .There are such teahouses in parks or entertainment places in many cities and tourist areas, or they are built in the winding paths of the gardens, or they are built on the banks of lotus ponds and fish ponds, or in other small gardens in the gardens, to enjoy bonsai, Calligraphy and painting may be used as a place for playing chess and reading.This category is the most diverse and widely distributed.

Cantonese style is mostly a combination of a tea house and a restaurant. There are two tea markets (morning tea and afternoon tea, and some evening tea) and two food markets (lunch and dinner, and some also have supper) every day.The teahouses in Guangzhou can also be traced back to the Tang and Song dynasties. At first, they appeared as a social place for merchants to meet the needs of business, and gradually became the daily living habits of citizens.The design of Cantonese-style teahouses is very particular, and it can be represented by the Panxi Restaurant in Guangzhou. Panxi is one of the largest garden-style restaurants in China, with more than 3,000 seats, corridors and pavilions, connected by flower paths. All face the beauty.Cantonese-style teahouses combine drinking tea with dim sum. The dim sum chefs in Panxi can make thousands of dim sum, and dozens of them are launched every week, which are called "weekly desserts".There are thousands of large and small teahouses in Guangzhou, and every morning tea and afternoon tea are full of seats, and carts of snacks and various snacks shuttle back and forth in the halls, allowing anyone to choose.This kind of teahouse is a good place for entertaining relatives and friends or gathering with family.While sipping tea, enjoying delicious snacks and snacks, chatting happily.This kind of teahouse has become a social place for citizens to exchange information, negotiate business, reconcile disputes, group tea parties, farewells, dust cleaning, and blind dates.Teahouses have become an integral part of the daily life of Guangzhou citizens.

Sichuan-style Sichuan people sitting in teahouses is also a centuries-old tradition.Sichuan-style teahouses are simple and casual, with bamboo reclining chairs and tea tables. Customers sit down and drink tea, eat sunflower seeds, peel peanuts, and "play dragon gates" (chat), read newspapers, play chess, or play poker. Feel free to doze off on the recliner when you are tired. The atmosphere is very leisurely. It is a simple and cheap popular resting place. These four types of teahouses show the richness and variety of Chinese tea culture from a life level.In the hustle and bustle of the city, teahouses with different characteristics are distributed among them, which are convenient and elegant places for people to rest in their spare time.The richness of Chinese tea culture not only reflects the industriousness and wisdom of the Chinese people, but also shows that the Chinese nation is a nation that is good at combining work and rest and blending emotions. In addition to the four major types of tea houses, there are also many tea customs with local characteristics.For example, the "Kung Fu Tea" in Chaozhou, Guangdong and southern Fujian still retains the charm of the ancient tea ceremony, but there are not so many red tapes. The tea is usually made of oolong tea, which is very strong.First heat the tea set, and then brew the tea.The tea sets are unique, most of them use small and exquisite purple clay pots, like children's toys; the teacups are as big as half a ping-pong ball. "Kungfu tea" is not mainly for quenching thirst, but a kind of etiquette of respecting guests and narrating feelings. The host and guest chat around the tea set, drink slowly, and stop drinking after talking.This tea custom is prevalent in Chaozhou, Shantou, southern Fujian, Hainan and Taiwan.Some "tea art houses" in this area are a combination of "Kung Fu tea houses" and Beijing-style "quyi tea houses".In Taoyuan County of Hunan Province and Jiangle County of Fujian Province, they are used to drinking "lei cha", which is mixed with green tea, sesame, peanut kernels and some Chinese herbal medicines (Huoxiang, tangerine peel, Chuanxiong, licorice, etc.), and then washed in a pottery bowl. Soak or boil slightly, as a guest drink or family gathering.Lei Cha has become a health drink with unique local flavor.In the areas of Haifeng and Lufeng in Guangdong, they like to drink "salty tea", which is to grind tea leaves and sesame seeds and add salt to drink.This kind of salty tea is most suitable for farmers to work in the fields in summer. It can not only quench their thirst, but also supplement the salt and other nutrients lost by excessive sweating, which is very good for recovering from fatigue. In ethnic minority areas, there are also tea customs with their own characteristics: for example, the Bai people's "three courses of tea" respect guests, which means "one bitterness, two sweetness, and three aftertaste".The "Camellia tea" of the Dong nationality is made of tea soup with tea leaves, nuts, oil and salt to respect guests.The "oil tea soup" of the Tujia nationality is made by frying tea leaves and peppercorns with tea oil, then splashing water into the pot, and then adding shredded ginger, pig offal, walnut kernels, fried soybeans, fried peanuts, fried vermicelli, etc. "Babao Oil Tea Soup" is a must-have homemade tea soup for Tujia people every day. "If you don't drink oil tea soup for a day, the table full of wine and vegetables will not taste good."When the guests come, the first thing is to entertain them with oil tea soup.The Hui people in Ningxia like to use "covered bowl tea", which is made of tea leaves, sugar, red dates, yuan meat (dried longan meat), sesame seeds, walnut kernels, raisins, etc. to make a bowl of sweet tea soup.The milk teas of various ethnic groups in pastoral areas also have their own advantages and disadvantages. Tibetans use butter tea, Mongolians use salty milk tea, and Uighurs use milk tea. During the brewing process, some local people’s favorite condiments are added.There is a lack of vegetables in pastoral areas, and tea is an important source of vitamins and trace elements. Since tea drinking constitutes a part of Chinese social life and is related to many cultural activities, tea can refresh the mind and often inspire poets to write beautiful poems, reflecting colorful social conditions.Here are a few tea-chanting poems from Tang and Song Dynasties to see it. "Tea Ridge" Wei Chuhou Gu Zhu's teapot is absolutely rare, and Mengshan Shu's letter is rare. Qiancong thus began, containing dew Ziying fertilizer. The poet in the early Tang Dynasty left us information about the surge in demand for tea and the large-scale development of tea mountains in the early Tang Dynasty. At the same time, he revealed that two famous tea bases, Guzhu in Huzhou, Zhejiang and Mengshan in Yazhou, Sichuan, were established more than 1,300 years ago. It is already well-known. "Pipa Xing" (excerpt) Bai Juyi The eldest married as a businessman's wife, and the businessman paid more attention to profit than parting, Last month I went to Fuliang to buy tea,... Bai Juyi was a poet in the mid-Tang Dynasty. These three poems reflect the desolate state of mind of a twilight singer after marrying a tea merchant; at the same time, it reflects that Fuliang (now Jingdezhen) was already a tea production and distribution base in the mid-Tang Dynasty. "Taiyuan Sencha" (excerpt) Su Dongpo The eyes of the crabs are more than the eyes of the fish, and the whistling is about to make the song of the pine wind. The velvet comes out of the ground, the fine beads fall, and the dizzy wind turns around the Ou [ou Ou] and the snow is light. Su Dongpo was a famous writer, poet, and outstanding dietitian in the Song Dynasty. The first two sentences of this poem vividly describe that freshly boiled water is the standard temperature for making tea, and the third sentence describes the scene of grinding tea (the Song Dynasty likes to use steamed water to make tea). Longfeng tea that is pressed into a cake shape and must be crushed before brewing), the fourth sentence describes the white foam flying like snowflakes in the tea pot. "Long Sentences of Simulating Shu People's Fried Tea Opera" (excerpts) Returning to the dream butterfly bed for the first time in the afternoon pillow, the red silk small 硙 [wei is] the flag-breaking gun. There are rice bags and wine jars one after another, who will taste the fragrance of Mengshan purple bamboo shoots! This poem starts with the description of cooking tea, and extends to condemning the official circles of the Southern Song Dynasty as "rice bags and wine urns". The two famous teas of "Mengshan Zisun" (Mengding Shihua and Guzhu Zisun) have become high-grade teas in the Song Dynasty. synonym) was snubbed to satirize the lack of appreciation of decent and talented people in the Southern Song Dynasty. It is a political poem chanting tea and expressing anger. China's tea-chanting poems have become a major player in the poetry garden. According to statistics, from the Tang Dynasty to modern times, there are about 3,000 tea-chanting poems, more than 100 monographs about tea, and tea-themed operas and operas. Not a lot.The colorful teapots also became a striking work of art in applied art ceramics.From this perspective, we can also see the status of tea in the history of Chinese culture. China's tea culture also has an indissoluble bond with Taoism, Buddhism, and Islam. Many Taoist temples and Buddhist temples also grow tea as a sideline. China's tea culture also extends to the world, the most prominent being the "tea ceremony" in Japan and afternoon tea in Britain.The purpose of the Japanese tea ceremony is "harmony, respect, purity and silence". It is a combination of the Chinese tea ceremony's cultivation of the mind and the Buddhist fraternity and compassion with the respectful spirit of the Japanese people. The "tea ceremony" has become a common folk custom of the Yamato nation. It plays a subtle role in promoting the harmony of interpersonal relationships and the harmony between man and nature.The "afternoon tea" in the UK has become a special rhythm of life that uses the break time to adjust energy, which is of great value in improving work efficiency and cultivating the national spirit of the whole people. Tea leaves do not have the high caffeine of coffee and cocoa (the caffeine contained in a cup of tea is only about one-third to half of a cup of coffee or a cup of cocoa) and side effects such as high calories and high cholesterol; Difficult to quench thirst and other shortcomings.Tea has become the most popular worldwide beverage for its excellent effects such as refreshing, quenching thirst, eliminating boredom, fitness and low calorie, as well as cheap and good quality.According to rough statistics, the world's tea consumption population has reached about 4 billion, accounting for 4/5 of the world's population.The extension of Chinese tea culture and the health care effect of tea are developing in direct proportion to the world. In the 21st century, tea culture will be more brilliant.
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