Chapter 7 The third section of Xia, Shang and Zhou food culture bears fruit

The establishment of the Xia, Shang, and Zhou dynasties all centered on the Huaxia people, and since then laid the foundation for the formation of the Chinese nation.Before the Spring and Autumn Period, the three dynasties had always maintained a unified and centralized slavery regime, and there were no divisions or major wars.These three dynasties first developed the vast area of ​​the middle and lower reaches of the Yellow River.In the Eastern Zhou Dynasty, due to the development of the local economy, some slavery regimes rose up in the vassal and guard areas of the Zhou Dynasty.In the Spring and Autumn Period, although Zhou Tianzi had declined and feudalism also began to sprout in the late Spring and Autumn Period, the areas of the vassal guards were still being developed. The development of the lower reaches and the development of the upper reaches of the Yangtze River by Ba and Shu have enabled the production of the Yangtze River Basin to catch up with that of the Yellow River Basin.During those centuries, the development of the Loess Plateau by Qin and Jin, and the development of the Liaodong Peninsula by Yan and Qi also made greater progress than that of the Western Zhou Dynasty.Therefore, the three generations were a period in which the Chinese nation gradually developed the Yangtze River and Liaohe River basins centered on the Yellow River Basin, and prepared conditions for further development of Lingnan, Southeast, Northwest and Southwest regions in the future.

The agricultural production of Xia, Shang, and Zhou has made considerable progress on the basis of the development of the Neolithic Age.The "Kao Gong Ji" written in the Warring States Period records the specifications of the ditch dredging projects in Xia, Shang, and Zhou dynasties; oracle bone inscriptions record dung fields; and record the use of green manure.All three generations set up astronomical and calendar officials whose main task was to master the farming time; there were also agricultural officials at all levels who directly managed the countryside.All this shows that compared with the Neolithic period, the agricultural production of Xia, Shang and Zhou has reached a new level in terms of production scale, production organization and production technology.At that time, the Yellow River Basin was rich in grass and forests, with little soil erosion, and the ecological environment and land development were generally still in a coordinated state.Facing the boundless virgin land around the Weihe River and the Weishui River, ancient poets once left us poems such as "the house is vast and the land is vast" and "Zhou Yuan (月无) (月无) [wu dance]", which is a reflection of the time. The praise of the fertile and moist soil of the Loess Plateau.

The food crops scattered in the pre-Qin literature include millet, rice, barley, wheat, yellow rice, sorghum, soybean, taro [nai], potato, miscellaneous beans, barley and so on.Among them, different varieties of millet, rice, wheat and yellow rice have been cultivated, such as "米" [mei coal] refers to dark-colored millet, "芑" [qiqi] refers to light-colored millet; in addition to indica rice and japonica rice, rice has also been added. Glutinous rice and upland rice (fragrant japonica rice) are produced; in addition to barley and wheat, buckwheat and barley are also grown for wheat;The taro in the south has a variety of varieties and rich yields, and has become an important miscellaneous grain in the south.The "taro Yin" of Chu State is the agricultural official who is in charge of the production of taro full-time.

Xia, Shang, and Zhou royal families and princes all had large-scale gardens, and private vegetable gardens and orchards were also common in various places.Artificially cultivated terrestrial vegetables include gourds, leeks, bitter gourds, vines, radishes, shepherd's purse, bitter wheat, pea sprouts, amaranth, garlic moss, wolfberry, bamboo shoots and so on.There are more than 20 kinds of vegetables recorded in "Erya" alone, but it is a pity that the ancient mystery is difficult to understand, and commentators since ancient times have not been able to explain them one by one. Aquatic vegetables include lotus root, cattail cabbage, cress, water shield [chunchun] vegetables, cold dishes, wormwood, water chestnuts, water chestnuts, arrowheads, bamboo shoots and so on.

Seasoning vegetables include onions, leeks, buckwheat, garlic, basil, parsley, peppers, ginger, etc.; seasoning crops include pepper and cinnamon. The vegetables collected include various mushrooms, seaweed, fungus and stone fungus.The fruits cultivated artificially in Xia, Shang and Zhou include peaches, apricots, plums, plums, jujubes, hawthorns, pears, oranges, grapefruits, papayas, persimmons, cherries, etc.; nuts include chestnuts and hazelnuts. The breeding industry in Xia, Shang, and Zhou was also very developed. The oracle bone inscriptions already reflect the characters of grazing cattle, sheep, reindeer, and elephants; Livestock are plentiful.In the tomb of Wuding's concubine Fuhao, many animal jade carvings were unearthed. Among them, cattle, sheep, dogs, monkeys, rabbits, turtles, geese, ducks, pigeons, etc. are all realistically shaped and belong to domesticated animals.

Xia, Shang, and Zhou have already started water breeding. "Shangshu" records that King Zhou of the late Yin Dynasty wasted his money by spending money on the people, blindly building palaces, pavilions [xie], and ponds, enjoying himself; it also records that the people of King Wen built "Lingtai" for him. ", "Lingmao", it can be seen that as early as the Shang and Zhou dynasties, they knew how to dig ponds to raise fish.According to legend, during the Spring and Autumn Period, Fan Li [Li Li] (Tao Zhugong) resigned from office and became a citizen, and became rich by managing industry and doing business. He first made his fortune by digging ponds and raising fish. Tao Zhugong's "Fish Raising Classic".Although this book is a fake work of later generations, it still reflects some actual conditions of early fish farming.Of course, large-scale fish farming was only possible after the Warring States period when shovels and shovels were widely used.

The fishing industry in Xia, Shang and Zhou was also very developed. There are six kinds of fish bones unearthed from the Yin Ruins; there are many inscriptions on the oracle bone inscriptions that record the fishing of the royal family. clear).In the court of the Zhou Dynasty, there was a huge fishing organization with a professional fishing team of more than 340 people.In the Eastern Zhou Dynasty, there were already professional fishermen near the lakes, seas and rivers. "Wu Yue Chunqiu" records: Wu Zixu fled from Chu State and ran to the riverside. After crossing the river, an old fisherman generously committed suicide to cover him.Later, Wu Zixu led the Wu army to avenge the king of Chu's killing of his father and brother. After capturing Ying (yingying) capital, he sent troops to attack Zheng to vent his personal anger that had been trapped in Zheng in the past.The army of Wu was on the border, and the son of the old fisherman was willing to serve the state of Zheng. He sailed among the reeds by the river to dissuade Wu Zixu, asking him not to forget his father's kindness in saving him in the past.Wu Zixu withdrew his troops after hearing this.This story reflects the residents who have been fishing for generations at that time.

"Shiben" records: "Su (su Su) Sha clan boiled the sea into salt." According to ancient books, the Su Sha clan was a tribe allied with the Shennong clan, and until the time of the Yellow Emperor, it had been integrated with the Central Plains.It can be seen that our ancestors knew how to cook seawater to make salt as early as five or six thousand years ago.The use of salt is another major breakthrough after the use of fire in the course of human life.The combination of salt and gastric acid can accelerate the decomposition of meat and promote absorption, which is a positive factor for the evolution of human physique.The chemical composition of salt is sodium chloride, which is the main source of chlorine and sodium for the human body.These two elements are indispensable for maintaining the osmotic pressure of extracellular fluid, maintaining the acid-base balance in the body, and maintaining the excitability of nerves, bones, and muscles.Salt is the protagonist of seasoning, ranking first among the five flavors. Without salt, all delicacies from mountains and seas will lose their color; the body's absorption is also greatly restricted.In the Spring and Autumn Period (Eastern Zhou Dynasty), in addition to sun-drying sea salt, they also knew how to mine rock salt. The "Great Summer Salt" listed as one of China's gourmet resources in "Lushi Chunqiu" is rock salt from Qinghai.

Sugar also plays an important role in seasoning. "Book of Rites": "Jujube, chestnut, yee, and honey are used to sweeten them." This sentence reflects the four sources of sweetness in Xia, Shang, and Zhou.Jujubes and chestnuts existed as early as the Neolithic period. These two fruits have a high sugar content, but in ancient times the sugar could not be separated from the pulp. Both jujubes and chestnuts can only be used as sweet ingredients.Honey is honey, and maltose is maltose (ie maltose). These two are the special sugar sources.Honey was taken from the wild at the beginning, and it was only later that bees were domesticated.During the Warring States period, the use of honey was very common. In "Songs of the Chu Dynasty: Calling the Soul", there are sentences about using honey to make cakes [zizi] and add fruit pulp to eat. It can be seen that honey has become an important ingredient for the nobles to make snacks and drink daily. Raw materials, bees have been domesticated in the Eastern Zhou Dynasty.Maltose is made by fermenting and heating malt or starch. The appearance of maltose is a major achievement in the ancient food manufacturing industry. Maltose has been found in court poems in the early Western Zhou Dynasty.In addition to the above four sugar sources in Xia, Shang and Zhou, there are also licorice and sugar cane.The records of licorice can be found in "Chu Ci" and the records of sugar cane can be found in "Chu Ci".Sugar is not only an element of cooking and making food, but also has certain antiseptic properties, and it also provides calories to the body.

The fermentation industry is a system engineering with special contributions in the ancient food manufacturing industry in my country. It is a series of major achievements in the use of various benign strains to serve the diet, mainly the use of yeast, acetic acid bacteria, lactic acid bacteria and mucormycetes.Although the Chinese ancestors did not know the principle of fermentation, they have been able to master the various results of fermentation through long-term practice, which adds splendor to cooking and diet, and is also the germination of biochemistry. The first is to use yeast to ferment sugar to make wine. This has happened in my country more than 6,000 years ago. Wine vessels have appeared in the Yangshao Culture Site, and many wine vessels have been unearthed from the Dawenkou Culture and the Longshan Culture, which are its physical evidence.In Xia, Shang, and Zhou dynasties, "Nie Niie" (also known as "Daqu") capable of directional winemaking has been cultivated. Among them, the koji made from Rhizopus capable of making sweet wine is called "Xiaoqu", which means sweet wine. Distiller's yeast is still used by the people until today.In recent years, ruins of brewing workshops and remains of yeast have been unearthed in the ruins of the early and mid-Shang Dynasty in Gao[Gao] City, Hebei Province.The court of the Zhou Dynasty had a large-scale brewing workshop, and a "big chief" (wine officer) led a full-time brewing team with more than 300 slaves.There are many types of wine in Xia, Shang, and Zhou: there is "Chengjiu" (or "clear wine"), which is rice wine brewed for a long time and filtered out of distiller's grains; Fermented glutinous rice wine is short-term brewed glutinous rice wine; "fragrant wine" (called "鬯" [chang singing] in ancient times) is made by soaking tulip grass or lemongrass in rice wine; there is also "osmanthus wine" (add sweet-scented osmanthus and brew in rice wine).Wine is not only a banquet drink, a sacrificial offering and a solvent for soaking medicine, but also a special flavor-enhancing condiment.Wine is volatile and can be sterilized and antiseptic. Putting some fragrant wine when making bacon or sauced meat can make the aroma of bacon or sauced meat and wine overflow, which is especially attractive.Sprinkle some cooking wine into the pot when stir-fried vegetables can keep the vegetables emerald green and make people intoxicated; sprinkle some cooking wine when stir-fried meat will make the wok suddenly steamy, and the deliciousness of the dishes is completed in the instant aroma of wine, and the stir-fry is particularly tender tasty.

Acetobacter is a kind of Aspergillus mycelia that can ferment sugars to sour. Making vinegar is another achievement after wine making.When the wine is invaded by acetic acid bacteria, the wine becomes vinegar.The sour "wine" can be used as vinegar seed.Vinegar making has been known to people since the Neolithic Age.In Xia, Shang, and Zhou dynasties, vinegar was called "醯" [xi tin].The ancient aristocrats had a lot of fish and meat in every meal. In order to understand the natural physiological requirements of being greasy and assisting stomach acid to break down protein, "醯" (vinegar) and "醷" [yiyi] (ie plum sauce) were indispensable in every meal.The court of the Zhou Dynasty also had a vinegar workshop with more than 40 slaves. The use of lactic acid bacteria to make kimchi is also a flower in my country's fermentation industry.During the Xia, Shang and Zhou dynasties, kimchi was called "菹" [zu rent], and it was also a must-have side dish on the table of nobles.To this day, Cantonese-style kimchi (sweet and sour) and Sichuan-style kimchi (salty, spicy and sour), as well as Guizhou "hydrochloric acid" and Korean spicy kimchi, are all famous appetizing dishes that make people never tire of eating them.Xianyang City Museum displays a locally unearthed kimchi altar of the Qin Dynasty. There is a coupon on the top of the altar to hold water. After covering it, it can isolate the air and prevent other bacteria from invading. The pickled juice can be used repeatedly for many years. The pickled vegetables Very delicious.This jar is exactly the same as the kimchi jar in Sichuan today. It can be seen that Sichuan-style pickles have been popular in western China for more than 2,000 years. The sauce making industry is a special achievement in my country's fermentation industry.It is made of soybeans (or broad beans) as the main ingredient, plus appropriate amount of wheat bran, starch, salt, sugar and other ingredients, and fermented by the action of mucormycetes.In Xia, Shang and Zhou, there are soy sauce, bean paste and tempeh.Soy sauce, soybean paste, and tempeh all contain a variety of amino acids, vitamin B1, and sodium glutamate, which can be blended with a variety of dishes and add deliciousness.These sauces are not only a good condiment, which can enhance appetite, but also contain a large amount of enzymes (enzymes) produced by fermented bacteria, which can promote complex chemical reactions in the human body and convert the food in the mouth into energy.This is done by enzymes, which are the catalysts of the body's metabolism.my country's bean paste brewing industry is a great contribution to nutrition and health care.There are often 120 urns of sauces used by the royal family in the Zhou Dynasty. It can be seen that sauces also play an important role in the royal kitchen. In the production of condiments, in addition to salt, sugar and sauce vinegar, there are also spices.The use of spices also shows the multi-faceted wisdom of human beings in utilizing nature.Spicy spices are volatile and can avoid fishy and greasy; their spicy taste can increase the deliciousness of dishes and stimulate the taste buds to promote appetite; some spices also have the functions of antiseptic, sterilizing and adjusting human physiological functions.In ancient times, the bacon made without spices and dried was called "preserved"; the one that was beaten and dried with ginger and osmanthus was called "腶修" (duanxiu Duanxiu).Ginger and cinnamon are the most commonly used condiments.As for the application of coriander such as onion, leek, garlic, and wild rice [jiaojiao], it is recorded in many ancient books of the pre-Qin period.There was also "mustard sauce" in the pre-Qin period, which was made from mustard seeds and mixed with vinegar or oil. It was used for dipping meat or kimchi.Some spices can not only inhibit bacteria and antisepsis, but also regulate human body functions, such as ginger and cinnamon, which can warm the stomach and antiseptic; Chinese pepper can drive wind and antiseptic; pepper can increase blood pressure; mustard sauce can lower blood pressure and so on.Many condiments are not only indispensable for cooking, but also necessary for health care. The pottery industry has gone through five or six thousand years in the early and middle period of the Neolithic Age. It has mastered two aspects of modeling technology and fire, which has prepared the conditions for the emergence of the metal casting industry. More than 5,000 years ago), red copper appeared, and the Xia, Shang and Zhou dynasties entered the splendid age of bronze culture.At present, only tens of thousands of bronze utensils for daily use have been unearthed, among which ritual utensils for eating and drinking account for the majority.For example, cooking utensils include tripod, dun, 鬲, 甗, wok [huohuo], cauldron [fu ax], etc.; It can be used as a dining table); the eating utensils include daggers (round daggers for scooping rice and pointed daggers for taking meat), chopsticks (zhuzhu) (copper chopsticks) and spoons (for scooping wine or soup); Gui [gui rail], 簠 [fu fu], 盨 [xu Xu], beans, plates, etc.; drinking vessels include jue, horn, jia [jiajia], 盉 [he wo], goblet [gu solitary], goblet [ zhizhi〕, 兕〔sisi〕, Gong〔gong〕, etc.; wine vessels include Zun, You〔you〕, Fang Yi, animal-shaped Zun, 罍〔lei〕, etc.; water vessels include basins, 匜[yiyi], Yu, Jian, fou [fou no], bottle [bubu], bucket, etc.It can be seen that the kitchen utensils and tableware of two or three thousand years ago in our country are almost everything.Copper pots, copper shovels and copper knives capable of cutting thin meat were unearthed from the Yin Ruins, which is evidence that cooking was popular in the Yin Dynasty.The "Dun" that began to appear in the Eastern Zhou Dynasty is a round meat stew. The top cover and bottom pot of Dun are like two halves of a round ball. The Dun cover is deeper and heavier than the general tripod cover. This design is to increase The pressure makes the meat easy to stew and saves energy, similar to the current pressure cooker. Because copperware is expensive, it is generally enjoyed by nobles.The cooking utensils and storage utensils used by ordinary people belong to daily-use pottery, and primitive porcelain appeared later.The manufacture of porcelain requires three specific conditions: raw materials, glazes and heat: the raw material should be white paste mud (kaolin) as the base, the glaze should be mineral glaze (feldspar glaze or quartz glaze), and the heat should reach 1300°C to 1400°C.It is explored from long-term pottery practice.Recently, two dragon kilns of the Shang Dynasty were discovered at the Wucheng site in Qingjiang, Jiangxi (belonging to the middle of the Shang Dynasty). This is the earliest dragon kiln discovered in my country so far. In the tombs of the Shang Dynasty near the site, porcelain pieces made of kaolin were found, and the firing temperature had reached 1200 ° C. It can be seen that primitive porcelain appeared in the middle of the Shang Dynasty.By the Western Zhou Dynasty, the production of primitive porcelain had gradually become popular. In Qishan and Chang'an in Shaanxi, Junxian and Luoyang in Henan, Dantu in Jiangsu and Tunxi in Anhui and other Western Zhou sites, primitive porcelain fired with kaolin was unearthed, with glaze colors ranging from light yellow to green , green ash, etc., utensils include gui, 罍, beans, pots, bowls, bowls, statues, plates, etc.With the development of the brewing industry, the production of wine-making ceramics has been promoted. For example, the giant pottery urn unearthed from the Qin Dynasty site in Xianyang can hold 400 kilograms of wine and can be drunk by thousands of people. The eating utensils of Xia, Shang and Zhou Dynasties also included lacquer ware, jade ware, and ivory ware exclusively for nobles.A lacquer plate and a lacquer box with a wooden body were unearthed at the site of the mid-Shang Dynasty in Taixi Village, Gaocheng, Hebei. These are the earliest known lacquer food utensils.In the Eastern Zhou Dynasty, lighter and lighter lacquerware with hemp tires appeared. At this time, lacquerware has gradually become popular, especially in Chu State.Many exquisite jade and ivory tableware were unearthed from the tomb of Fuhao in the Yin Dynasty, including jade pots, jade plates, jade gui, jade spoons, jade daggers, jade mortars, jade pestles and ivory cups.Pre-Qin ancient books record that King Zhou used elephant chopsticks and jade cups, which were only doubtful historical materials before archaeological work was carried out. Today, unearthed objects prove that the nobles of the Yin Dynasty already owned these precious food utensils more than 200 years earlier than King Zhou. Food preservation is the product of food production to a certain extent.About 20,000 years ago, that is, the late Paleolithic Age, due to the widespread use of compound production tools such as meteor cables, stone spears, bows and arrows, the hunting economy entered a prosperous stage, prompting humans to seek ways to store hunted food for a long time. The lower chamber is the physical evidence of the constant temperature preservation method.The site of cavemen on the top of the cave, entering from the entrance of the cave, has three rooms: upper, middle and lower.The area of ​​the upper room is about eight meters wide from north to south, about 12 meters long from east to west, and there is a layer of black soil about 0.5 meters in the middle, which is probably the remains of the fire pit, as well as cultural relics such as stone tools and bone tools.Three skulls and other remains remain in the middle layer.There are no human remains in the lower chamber, but many animal fossils.The lower cellar is cooler than the upper layer and can maintain a constant temperature. It is an ideal meat storage room.The lower chamber of the top cave is the earliest known constant temperature meat warehouse in the world. Ice cellars and well storage in Xia, Shang, and Zhou are commonly used cold storage methods.The royal family of the Zhou Dynasty had a special "Lingyin", which is the ice cellar, and set up an official in charge of the ice cellar, called "Lingren", who commanded more than 90 slaves, and was in charge of storing and managing ice in the "Lingyin".As for digging and transporting ice, it was done by corvee.The ice in Lingyinli is also a kind of distribution material for the royal family and nobles. When it is used every year, the royal family distributes it to the nobles at all levels according to their ranks.In recent years, in Yongcheng, Shaanxi (now Gucheng Village, Baoji City), the Lingyin ruins of Qin Degong's Dazheng Palace in the Spring and Autumn Period were discovered, covering an area of ​​more than 100 square meters. Wells are more common in the south of the Yangtze River.More than 250 wells have been found in the Chuduji Nancheng site in Jiangling, Hubei. According to their uses, there are about three types: one type is densely packed around the kiln site, and the well pits are relatively shallow. Well for pottery.One type is distributed around the architectural ruins. The well pits are relatively deep, and there are still water-drawing pots in the wells. This is undoubtedly a well for daily use.The other type is also distributed around the building site. There is no water-drawing tank in the well, but there is a large pottery urn, which should be a cold storage well.In winter, only thin ice forms in the Jianghan River Basin, unlike North China, where thick layers of ice can be drilled, so there is no need for shade, and wells are used for hiding.In the Central Plains, refrigerators using wells for low temperature were also found: in the ruins of the ancient cities of Zheng and Han in Xinzheng, Henan, a narrow and long semi-underground building about nine meters long and three meters wide was found in the palace area. The walls are all built with square bricks, and there are five deep wells on one side of the bottom. Many pottery pieces and bones of cattle, sheep, pigs, and chickens were unearthed. This should be a cold storage 2,400 to 500 years ago. The ancients not only knew how to use natural ice to prolong the storage time of meat, vegetables and fruits and use the stored natural ice to cool the kitchen and restaurant in summer, but also knew how to ice drinks. sentence. In addition to the cooling preservation method, the ancients had many other preservation methods, the most common ones being the fumigation roasting method and air-drying method following the Stone Age.In summer, Shang, and Zhou dynasties, in addition to "腒" [juju] (dry-cured bird meat), "(Yu Su)" [su Su] (dried fish), "dried meat" (bacon) and other air-dried foods that maintain their original flavor In addition to cooking methods, it is also good at adding spices, salt and sugar to make jerky, such as "boil", one of the eight treasures of the Zhou Dynasty, which is dried and stored flavored jerky. Vinegar pickling and boiling are also a method of preservation, mostly used for soaking melons and fruits. "Shu" (pickles) is to use lactic acid bacteria to pickle melons and vegetables, or soak them directly in vinegar. As long as they are not polluted, they will not spoil for a long time. . "Xia Xiaozheng" records: "Boil plums in May and peaches in June", which means to cook the harvested plums and peaches thoroughly and store them as appetizers for meals all year round. China's terrain is high in the northwest and low in the southeast, backed by the Himalayas and Kunlun Mountains, connected to the Eurasian continent, and facing the vast Pacific Ocean in the southeast.The average altitude of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau is above 4,000 meters; the Mongolian Plateau is slightly lower (with an average altitude of more than 1,000 meters), but it is at the forefront of threats from the Arctic cold wave and the northern hemisphere's sandstorm zone.The climates of these two plateaus are both severe cold and arid, and are mainly suitable for nomadic pastoralism, which is the reason for the natural environment that has restricted the development of agriculture and population in history. However, these two plateaus have developed nomadic economies.Most of the land in the southeast of these two plateaus is the fertile hinterland of the East Asian continent, suitable for the development of agriculture.Due to the vastness of the territory and the great differences in geographical and climatic conditions, our ancestors basically developed two types of agriculture in this boundless land.For example, if the Qinling Mountains and the Huaihe River are drawn as a line, the northern part is the Loess Plateau, the Great North China Plain, Inner Mongolia and the Northeast region. It is suitable for planting drought-tolerant crops such as millet and wheat, and has developed the dryland agricultural economy.The vast area in the southeast and some parts in the southwest are plains and hills, with an average altitude of less than 300 meters. This area has abundant rainfall, vertical and horizontal rivers, and a long frost-free period. It is suitable for rice cultivation and has developed a rice farming economy.These three types of areas, as early as the Neolithic period, had different staple foods: the Qinghai-Tibet and Inner Mongolia Plateau mainly had beef, mutton and cheese as the staple food; the north of the Qinling Mountains and Huaihe River had millet and wheat as the staple food; the southeast and southwest had rice as the staple food.In Xia, Shang, and Zhou, the proportion of wheat and yellow rice eaten in the north increased; the proportion of taro, beans, and potatoes eaten in the south increased.Due to the favorable climate, convenient irrigation, and rich products, the south has more developed horticulture and aquaculture industries than the north, and has a wider field of fishing and hunting. Therefore, the southern residents have more mixed diets and more non-staple foods.Due to the differences in non-staple food production conditions and dietary customs, the appreciation attitudes towards food in Xia, Shang and Zhou dynasties are roughly divided into those in the north and the south.Confucius and Lu Buwei represent two different tastes: Confucius eats meat only when it is cut into squares and squares, chickens smaller than a fist are not eaten, duck tails, chicken livers, goose gizzards, deer stomachs, etc. are not eaten; On the contrary, he believes that the most beautiful are the lips of orangutans, the soft meat of the heels of the claws of pigs and badgers, the tails of ducks, the noses of elephants, and the tails of yaks.Confucius is close to the taste of people in North China; Lu Buwei is close to the taste of people from Guangdong, Guangxi, Fujian, Sichuan and Yunnan. Most of the recipes of Xia, Shang, and Zhou have been lost, and only the "Eight Treasures" of the Zhou Dynasty and a meal listed in "Chu Ci·Calling the Soul" in the Warring States Period survived.These two menus represent the dietary level of the upper class at that time. The eight delicacies of the Zhou Dynasty were "Chun Boiled, Chun Mu [mo Mo], Pao Tu, Dao Zhen, Zuan, Boiled, Grits [Shen Body], Liver Net Oil". "Chunao" is a kind of fried rice, which is boiled with upland rice (fragrant japonica rice), mixed with fried meat sauce, and fried with lard to eat, similar to the fried bean curd in Hubei today. "Chunmu" means to imitate "Chunao", but the main ingredient is replaced with yellow rice, and the method is the same as "Chunao". "Pao Dolphin" is stewed suckling pig or lamb.The method is to use red dates to stuff suckling pig or lamb, cook it first, peel off the charcoal shell, dip it in wet rice noodles, fry it with lard until golden brown, add spices, and simmer thoroughly. "Taozhen" is a kind of high-grade miscellaneous meat steak.That is to use a piece of beef tenderloin (beef tenderloin), match with the same amount of tenderloin of sheep, elk (that is, Sibuxiang), sika deer and roe deer, etc., beat slightly, remove tendons, fry until tender, and then serve Spices, sauces, vinegar and other seasonings are eaten, similar to today's steak and deer steak. "Zuckles" are fragrant wine beef.Cut the fresh beef into thin slices, soak it in fragrant wine overnight, and eat it the next day with sauce vinegar and plum sauce.This dish is similar to Baiyue people eating raw fish. "Boil" means roasting jerky.First choose the lean meat of beef, sheep or deer, beat the tendons until soft, cut into thin pieces, sprinkle with ginger, cinnamon and salt, then bake and eat. "Grits" is three delicacies baked rice.Take the same amount of fresh beef, sheep, and pork, cut into pieces, season, and mix with 2/3 rice to cook. "Liver net oil" is roasted net oil dog liver.Take a pair of dog liver, wrap it with net oil, moisten it, adjust the seasoning, put it on the charcoal and bake it until it is browned. "Songs of Chu: Evocation of the Soul" uses a table of wine and vegetables to worship the souls of the dead.Some say it was made by Qu Yuan's tribute to King Huai of Chu, while others are said to be made by Song Yu's tribute to Qu Yuan.This passage, translated into vernacular, is roughly as follows: The dining room at home is comfortable and stately, and the meals are varied: Rice, millet, Ermai, Huangliang, whatever you choose; Sour, sweet, bitter, spicy, fragrant, fresh, and serve as you wish. The tendons of the beef are shining with butter, soft and fragrant; Chef Wu's hot and sour soup is really mouthwatering; Braised soft-shelled turtle and lamb, dipped in sweet sucrose; Fried swan, braised wild duck, grilled wild goose and big crane, served with greasy physalis; Chicken in marinated oil, stewed turtle, you want to eat a few more bites no matter how full you are. Deep-fried egg noodles [san umbrella], honey dipped rice cakes, and bean-stuffed pancakes are sweet and crispy. Honey mixed with fruit pulp, fragrant and sparkling green, really enough to intoxicate you; The iced glutinous rice wine is bright yellow, mellow and cool; To understand the wine, there is also a good sour plum soup. Come back!Hometown will not disappoint you. The listed dishes present southern characteristics; while the eight treasures of the Zhou Dynasty are generally northern tastes. The experiences of Xia, Shang, and Zhou in various aspects of cooking are mostly recorded in ancient documents: Regarding the selection of slaughter objects, it is recorded in "Zhou Rituals": Cattle, if they always squawk at night, the meat will smell bad; If the end is knotted, the meat will smell of mutton; if the dog has shaved buttocks and acts impatiently, the meat will smell bad; Polyps; horses, those with bald front shin hairs smell like mole crickets.Judging from the symptoms of an animal whether its meat is edible is a summary of the intuitive quarantine experience in Xia, Shang, and Zhou.For example, there are small polyps in pork. From the perspective of modern medical knowledge, it means that pigs have tapeworms, and the oocysts spread all over the body, that is, porcine cysticercosis. Regarding seasoning and season, several principles have been summarized in the Book of Rites: "Fanhe, the spring is more sour, the summer is more bitter, the autumn is more pungent, and the winter is more salty. It is mixed with sweetness." In spring, everything sprouts, and various bacteria, especially Salmonella bacteria that cause enteritis and amoeba bacteria that cause dysentery, are most likely to contaminate food; Put some sour vinegar in it, which can not only sterilize, but also wake up the stomach.Eating too much meat in summer is likely to cause an acid reaction. People like to eat something alkaline and slightly bitter; Like a dose of refreshing drink, it immediately refreshes the tongue and comforts the stomach and intestines.As the weather turns cooler in autumn, people like to eat sweet and spicy food with slightly higher calorie content, such as braised meat, cured meat, hot and sour soup and so on.In winter, it is cold, so high-calorie meat food needs to be supplemented. Barbecue, red stew, thick sauce hot pot and other methods are often used. The intake of salt also increases. Salt combines with gastric acid to become hydrochloric acid, which can help the digestion of meat.This experience summary of seasoning according to seasons contains a summary of certain knowledge of physiology, physics and physiology. Regarding the combination of staple food and non-staple food, Xia, Shang, and Zhou have already had routine habits. Although there are many meat dishes mentioned in "Book of Rites: Nei Ze", the top one is rice.This is in line with the principle of dietary balance.Rice includes millet (millet), millet (yellow rice), rice (japonica rice or indica rice), sorghum (also known as yellow sorghum, dark yellow glutinous millet), wheat (barley, wheat), wild rice (gu guess) (Poaceae Grass seeds), etc.These staple foods are sometimes boiled into dry rice and sometimes into porridge. The variety of grains is to change the taste, and rice grains are placed first, which means that grains are the staple food. In ancient soups, not all meat was added, but some "芼" [maomao] (small cabbage and the like) or "mustard" (mustard greens) or "Huo" (pea sprouts), green onions, leeks, etc. were always added. For seasoning, it is also a reasonable combination of meat and vegetables. Regarding knife skills, there is also a set of established methods: in the Zhou Dynasty, the meat that had been removed and cut into thick pieces was called "脔" [luanluan], and the meat cut into long strips was called "preserved". The ones that are cut into pieces are called "Xuan".When slicing the lean meat of cattle and wild animals, "it must be cut according to the principle" (it must be cut against the grain of the meat), which is the routine of knife skills.Xia, Shang, and Zhou already knew that "脄" [mei coal] (tenderloin) is the top meat, and it is a good material for making pork chops and fried pork slices.When slaughtering domestic animals or beasts, it is known to cut them in different stages, such as spine, rib, shoulder, hip, (Yuezhan) [jianjian], etc., so that they can be used for cooking.In Xia, Shang and Zhou’s butchering industry, some dissecting experts also appeared, which are described in many ancient books. Zhuang Zhou described in his "Health Master" that there was a "pao robe" in the royal kitchen of King Hui of Liang (that is, King Wei Hui). Ding", his kitchen knife is still as sharp as new after 19 years of use.Because this cook has received long-term professional training, he is proficient in knife skills, knows how to cut bones according to the joints, and cuts meat according to the texture, so he can do a job with ease without hurting the blade.This Zhuding knows animal anatomy like the back of his hand, so he can use a knife like a god. In order to make the sliced ​​meat tender and delicious when fried or smoothed, chefs in the Zhou Dynasty knew how to use "滫" [xiu rotten] (slurry precipitated from rice washing water) to thicken the meat. Regarding seasoning and heat, "Lu Shi Chunqiu·Benwei Pian" has an incisive discussion: "In the matter of harmony, sweetness, sourness, bitterness, pungentness, and saltiness must be used in order, and the order is very small. All of them start from themselves. The changes in the middle are exquisite and delicate, the mouth can speak, and the aspirations cannot be described. Therefore, it will not be harmful for a long time (referring to pickled, cured, sauced meat, etc., the meat will not be spoiled after long storage), cooked but not rotten, sweet but not bad Concentrated, sour but not cool, salty but not diminished (reduced may be a typo in the word alkali, i.e. bitter), pungent but not strong, bland (dan dan) but not thin, fat but not greasy." "Benwei Pian" also develops the cooking theory: "The husband's three groups of insects [the three groups are water dwellings, such as fish and shrimps; In ancient times, animals were often referred to as "worms"]. Those who live in water are fishy, ​​those who eat meat are smelly, and those who eat grass are smelly. The stench is beautiful, and there are reasons for them (each has its special delicacy). The essence of all flavors is water. Five flavors (sweet, sour, salty, bitter, pungent), three materials (water, wood, fire), nine boiling and nine transformations, fire is the discipline (jie), time is sick (fierce fire) and time is slow (slow fire), extinguishes the fishy smell To get rid of the mutton, you must use it to win, and don't lose the reason." That is to say, cooking to remove the smell, but also to maintain the unique taste of various food materials. The key to "it must be won by it, not lost by it" lies in the mastery of seasoning and heat.This theory is based on the discussion of taste between Tuo Yiyin and Shangtang, which means that through seasoning and cooking with water and fire, the original taste of various meats can be brought out, and the coexisting bad taste can be removed, so as to suit the taste. Need, is a good cook. It can be seen from the above that the cooking industry of Xia, Shang and Zhou, from the experience of material selection, season, main and non-staple food matching, knife skills, seasoning and heat, etc., has been summarized at a theoretical level. It is a part of Chinese food culture. An important legacy. Cooking is closely related to nutrition and health care. Xia, Shang, and Zhou had already had a fairly high awareness of nutrition and health care. Mo Zhai discussed the purpose of eating: "It is also food, which is enough to increase Qi and fill deficiency, strengthen the body and fit the abdomen." Using the principles of modern medicine to analyze, "increasing energy" means replenishing energy to make the body vigorous; "filling up deficiency" means replenishing consumption and ensuring the needs of metabolism; "strengthening the body" means supplying reasonable nutrients to enhance physical fitness "Appropriate belly" is to satisfy the taste and appetite, so that the cerebral cortex can get benign stimulation from suitable taste, stimulate the sense of taste, so as to ensure appetite and enhance the absorption function.The ancients have been able to understand the principle of physiological nutrition from personal experience. Nutrition and health care In addition to food selection and cooking, another essential is a balanced diet and a moderate diet.Many scholar-officials in ancient times knew this aspect of food hygiene.Both Confucius and Lu Buwei believed that grain should be the main food, and meat should be eaten in moderation.This is in line with the principle of nutrition and hygiene.Lu Buwei said: "Fat meat and thick wine are for self-improvement (you have to eat more when your stomach is full), and life is called food for rotten intestines." 〔Man Man〕(same as Sui) (Fig. 3). If you have a large scorpion but your qi is low, can you gain longevity by doing this?" "Zhongda scorpion" roughly refers to a person suffering from acidemia, with a drowsy head Symptoms; or symptoms of cerebral congestion in hypertensive persons.This requires a balanced diet and a moderate diet in order to achieve the purpose of preventive health care. The ancient diet also paid attention to the atmosphere of the restaurant, that is, to advocate "cooking away from the kitchen" and "leaving food with music", separating the dining hall from the slaughterhouse, and accompanied by melodious music during meals, all of which are in line with food hygiene. All of the above are important heritages in Chinese food culture.