Chapter 13 Section 2 Fine wines are famous all over the world

China is one of the earliest countries in the world to make wine.According to archaeological data, it is generally believed that wine appeared in the Longshan culture period from 2800 to 2300 BC. During this period, wine vessels made of black pottery—zun, jia [jia] and cups were unearthed.Historical documents record the drinking of Xia Yu in the 21st century BC. "Lu's Spring and Autumn Annals Renshu" contains: "Yidi makes wine." In the twenty-third volume of "Warring States Policy", there is "In the past, the emperor ordered Yidi to make wine and it was beautiful. When Yu entered, Yu drank it sweetly. , Sui Shuyidi, Juezhi wine, said: "In future generations, there will be people who will destroy their country with wine." Xia Yu predicted things like a god, and by the end of the Xia Dynasty, the wine industry had developed, and the faint king set up a "wine wine" in the palace. The pool is bad, the joy of indulging in extravagance", indeed the country perished in drinking and having fun.As for the originator of wine, there are many legends, most people think it is Du Kang, some people think it is Yi Di, and there is also a legend about the ape making wine.

Shaokang, the king of the Xia Dynasty, is said in "Shuowen Jiezi" that he is Dukang who made wine. "Zuo Zhuan Ai Gongnian" records that Shaokang once worked as a cook (pao robe) of the Youyu family when he was young, that is, a chef or a small official in charge of the chef's affairs.It is possible for a chef to be the originator of winemaking.The book "Shiben", which was produced in the Warring States Period, has a record of "Shaokang made rice [shuhu] wine". "Shuowen Jiezi" also has the same record.Sorghum is sticky sorghum.Then Du Kang used sorghum to make wine, which was very popular among people, and the legend that he was revered as the "ancestor of wine" is "well-founded".Today, there are so-called Dukang winemaking sites in many places, such as "Dukanggou" and "Dukang River" in Baishui County, Shaanxi, and "Dukang Spring" and "Dukang Xianzhuang" in Ruyang County, Henan. The county built a Dukang temple to enshrine the statue of Dukang, worship him, and regard him as the god of the wine industry.In Cao Cao's "Duan Ge Xing" during the Three Kingdoms period, there is a sentence: "The only way to relieve worries is Du Kang." Here Du Kang has become synonymous with wine.Although the legend of Yidi and the ape making wine is also recorded, it is not as far-reaching as the legend of Du Kang being the "ancestor of wine".

In fact, the founder of Chinese wine is by no means a certain person or god, it is the result of the development of agricultural economy in ancient China.Jiang Tong, a literati in the Western Jin Dynasty, clearly pointed out in "Jiugao" that "the prosperity of wine originated from the emperor; or Yun Yidi, one is called Dukang. There is no end to eating, and there is nothing left to mulch, and it is smoldering, and its fragrance is stored for a long time. .It is based on this, not by strange recipes."This shows that in ancient times, people did not consciously make wine, and accidentally poured the leftovers into tree holes, and under the action of temperature and other conditions, they would naturally transform into wine or alcoholic food. This phenomenon has gradually been recognized by people.After the emergence of agriculture, the stored grains were piled up and fermented, and artificial wine was produced. "Huainanzi · Shuo Lin Xun" has "the beauty of Qingyu [yangyang] begins with Leisi [leisi Leisi]", which further illustrates the close relationship between wine making and agricultural production.

my country entered the Shang Dynasty (16th century BC to 11th century BC), and wine has become a necessity for people to live and worship ancestors. There are a lot of records about wine in "Oracle Bone Inscriptions", the oldest text of Shang Dynasty.For example, "Yi Bu, Zhen, Jiu Da Yi", "Bing Shu Bu, only new wine [li li] is used, only old wine is used." From oracle bone inscriptions, we can know that there were many types of wine at that time, and millet was used to make wine. The one made from rice is called Li, and the one made from rice millet [ju Ju] (black millet) is called Chang [chang], which are specially used for sacrificing ancestors.A variety of exquisite pottery and bronze wine vessels were found in the unearthed tombs, as well as wine-making yeast.In the Zhou Dynasty, the production of distiller's yeast wine appeared, which is a major invention of our country. The combination of saccharification and fermentation has brought a new leap forward in the production of wine. "Book of Rites · Moon Order" records the six conditions necessary for making good wine: the grain is fully mature; the water quality is sweet and clean;In this way, fine wine is brewed, and the taste is sweet and mellow, so it becomes famous wine.There are many kinds of wine in the Han Dynasty, and names such as clear wine, white wine, red wine, spring wine, distilled rice wine, rehmannia glutinosa wine, and honey wine have appeared.When Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty began to levy wine tax, the price of wine rose. "Hanshu" said that in the sixth year of Yuanshou, Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty (117 BC), "the benefits of making salt and iron wine are used to assist the consumption."And the liquor monopoly system began to appear, which has been passed down from generation to generation.From the middle of the Tang Dynasty to the end of the Song Dynasty, monopoly was the main focus, supplemented by taxation. Monopoly was implemented at the beginning of the Yuan Dynasty, and later changed to taxation. The Ming Dynasty continued unchanged. In the Xianfeng period of the Qing Dynasty, wine and department stores were taxed at the same time.In the long feudal society, wine has become an equally important financial source as salt and iron, and has become a special drink in people's daily life.Up to the Tang Dynasty, there were new breakthroughs in wine brewing technology. There was a "Liangyin Department" to manage the production of national famous wines, and "Liquor Envoys" specialized in wine management were set up in various places, and special works such as "The Book of Wine" were also published.There were many famous wines in the Tang Dynasty, such as Jiangxi Magu wine, Shandong Qiulubai wine, Suzhou water bottle wine, Huainan mung bean wine, and Zama wine produced in Sichuan.This kind of Sichuan wine is made from a mixture of rice, wheat and millet.Many writers in the Tang Dynasty had wedding parties, and the poet Li Bai wrote a poem in his "Hundred Poems on Wine Fighting" to praise Lanling wine: "Lanling wine tulips, jade bowls filled with amber light, but make the owner drunk, I don't know where It’s a foreign land.” Lanling wine has “far-reaching fragrance, golden color, drink until drunk, no headache, no dry mouth, no diarrhea.” It is a famous Dongyang wine with low fusel alcohol content."Chongbi Nianchun Wine" in Du Fu's poem refers to the official name of Chongbi Wine in Rongzhou (now Yibin) at that time, which is the predecessor of Wuliangye.The Tang Dynasty was the period for the development of grape planting and wine brewing in the Central Plains.In the fourteenth year of Emperor Taizong's Zhenguan (640 A.D.), Emperor Taizong of the Tang Dynasty pacified the ancient Gaochang country in the Western Regions (now Turpan, Xinjiang), introduced mare's milk grapes, and "obtained its wine method" to make wine.In Wang Han's "Liangzhou Ci", there is the eternal swan song of "Grape Wine Luminous Cup". The term "shochu" (that is, liquor) was first seen in Bai Juyi's poem "The lychees are newly cooked egg-colored, and the shochu smells the fragrance of amber at the beginning".From the wine vessels unearthed in the Tang Dynasty, it can be confirmed that before the Tang Dynasty, the wine vessels were large, but in the Tang Dynasty, the wine vessels suddenly became smaller. If there is no distilled wine with high alcohol concentration (that is, shochu), small wine glasses will not be used to hold wine.In the Song Dynasty, new achievements were made in the wine-making process, and red yeast rice was invented, which was made from red mold rice, and became the raw material for making red yeast rice wine in Fujian, Taiwan, and Zhejiang.At the same time, the distilling technology is advanced. A set of bronze distilling equipment was unearthed in 1975 from the Jin Dynasty site in Zhangzi Village, Qinglong County, Hebei Province. 1161), a tool for private wine making in the Jin Dynasty.Song Zhang Nengchen's "Famous Wine Records" contains more than 100 kinds of famous wines.In Yuan and Ming dynasties, with the development of koji technology and the improvement of brewing level, many wines were prepared with various raw materials.In the Ming Dynasty, shochu was common in the north, while rice wine was mainly drunk in the south.Chinese rice wine, known as Zhejiang Shaoxing rice wine.Wheat koji and glutinous rice are used to make wine without distillation, and the alcohol content is low.In the Qing Dynasty, there were shochu workshops all over the country, and Peijiu, Lujiu, and Fenjiu produced in the north were the most famous.There are generally shochu workshops in northern counties and market towns, among which sorghum wine is the authentic liquor.Liquor has become a drink for Li people to strengthen their bodies and relieve fatigue, and it is also a symbol of pride, ambition and cohesion.

In the Chinese wine family, in addition to baijiu and yellow rice wine, the history of fruit wine, liquor wine and medicinal wine is also very long.In particular, medicinal wine originated in the Warring States period. There is a saying that "medicine comes from wine". This is 2,000 years ago. sick wine.Ming listed dozens of medicinal wine formulas, which not only cure diseases, but also are good for health and nourishment. Adding precious Chinese medicinal materials to make medicinal wine is unique in the world's wine forest.After the founding of the People's Republic of China, China's wine making industry has developed greatly, and its development trend is to gradually change from high-alcohol wine to low-alcohol wine; from distilled wine to brewed wine; To meet the needs of the domestic market and foreign trade exports.

Liquor is a traditional Chinese liquor. According to the type of fermentation, there are solid fermented liquor, liquid fermented liquor and semi-solid fermented liquor; Fragrant liquor, sauce-flavored liquor, rice-flavored liquor and other fragrant liquors.There are many names of liquor, such as Moutai named after places, Wuliangye named after raw materials, Laojiao liquor named after craft characteristics, Gujing liquor named after famous springs and water, Dukang liquor named after historical traditions, Wenzhou liquor, etc. Junjiu and Kongfu liquor also have compound names such as Yanghe Daqu. In 1952, China’s first liquor appraisal conference selected four famous liquors: Moutai, Fenjiu, Xifeng, and Luzhou Daqu. In the 4th China liquor appraisal conference from 1983 to 1985, 13 kinds of liquor won gold medals, including Moutai, Fenjiu, and Wuliangye. , Yanghe Daqu, Jiannanchun, Gujing Gongjiu, Dongjiu, Xifengjiu, Luzhou Laojiao Tequ, Quanxing Daqu, Shuanggou Daqu, Langjiu, and special Yellow Crane Tower Liquor.

Moutai Moutai is the "pearl" of Chinese famous wines, and it is also a leader in the ranks of world famous wines.Moutai is a Maotai-flavored liquor with a soft and elegant aroma and a long aftertaste.At the Panama International Exposition in 1915, he won the gold medal of world famous wine.The excellent quality of Maotai liquor is related to the natural environment of Maotai Town, Renhuai County, Guizhou Province, where it is produced.Maotai Town is backed by Daqing Mountain, facing Chishui River, and its tributary Maotai River, the water quality is sweet and sweet.As early as 2,000 years ago in the Western Han Dynasty, the famous local wine, Goji Sauce Wine, was praised by Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty, and there is a legend that "Tang Meng drank Goji Sauce and made Yelang".It is said that Tang Meng, the envoy of Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty, was ordered to go to Yelang country. He deliberately passed through the Renhuai area in order to drink wolfberry wine.In the early years of the Qing Dynasty, Moutai flourished day by day. After 1840, the annual output reached 170 tons. It was transported to the Western Regions via Jiayuguan, and then sold across the sea to Southeast Asia.The unique craftsmanship and exquisite traditional technology of the ancient "Baishuiqu" and "Huisha" in Maotai Town are also an important guarantee for the production of fine wine.Maotai Town is located in a valley with a warm climate. In addition, the winemaking history here is more than a thousand years old. The air is filled with rich microbial clusters, which promotes the production of koji in high temperature and high humidity, and is conducive to making molds, yeasts and other microorganisms reproduce.The high-quality glutinous sorghum produced in the Chishui River area has strong grains and thin skins, and is a high-quality raw material for wine making.The brewing of Moutai requires two feedings, eight times of high-temperature accumulation, seven times of cellar fermentation, and seven times of wine extraction. The wine making cycle is as long as one year. .

Xinghua Village Fenjiu Fenjiu is produced in Xinghua Village, northeast of Fenyang County, Shanxi Province.In the Southern and Northern Dynasties, there was already a saying of "a hundred springs and fine wine".Du Mu, a poet of the Tang Dynasty, has a famous sentence in his poem "Qingming", "If I ask where is the restaurant, the shepherd boy points to Xinghua Village".At the end of Ming Dynasty, Li Zicheng led his troops through Xinghua Village and drank Fenjiu. He once wrote "Perfect and Perfect" to praise him.Fen Liquor in Xinghua Village has enjoyed the reputation of "color, aroma and taste" since ancient times.Fenjiu uses high-quality ancient well water and local high-quality sorghum as raw materials. It is a representative of Fen-flavor liquor. The liquor is colorless, clear and transparent. In 1915, "Baoquanyi" Fen Liquor won the gold medal at the Panama International Exposition.Since then, the reputation has endured for a long time. Since 1985, Xinghua Village has been the largest production base of Chinese liquor. Its products are exported to 60 countries and regions on five continents in the world.

Fengxiang Xifeng Liquor Xifeng Liquor is produced in Liulin Town at the foot of Lingshan Mountain in the west of Fengxiang County, Shaanxi Province. As early as the Spring and Autumn Period, there was a winemaking industry here.In the Tang Dynasty, Liulin Shaofang was everywhere, and the city was full of fragrance. The wine produced was already a treasure of state banquets.During the Wanli period of the Ming Dynasty (1573-1620 A.D.), there were 48 wineries in the four towns of Fengxiang Chengguan, Biaojiao, Liulin and Chencun, and became the hometown of famous wine in Northwest China. Xifeng wine is a kind of compound-flavored liquor with both light-flavored and strong-flavored liquors.The koji is made of barley and peas, high-quality sorghum is used as raw material, and the natural and sweet Liulin well water is used. It is fermented by the solid-state continuous hawthorn method in the cellar for 14 days, and the new wine is obtained after mixed steaming and burning.Xifeng wine has a suitable fragrance, pure aroma, soft mouthfeel, sweet and refreshing aftertaste, clean and long aftertaste, and harmonious flavors.New wine generally needs to be stored in the "sea of ​​wine" for three years, and then carefully blended.

Luzhou Laojiao Special Qu Luzhou Laojiao Special Qu is produced in Luzhou, where the Yangtze River and the Tuojiang River meet in the south of the Sichuan Basin.Luzhou was called "Jiangyang" in ancient times, and there has been a saying since ancient times that "Jiangyang has all the best wines".Huang Tingjian was demoted to Luzhou in the Northern Song Dynasty, and left a poem "Jiang'an has insufficient food, but Jiangyang has more wine". "Drunk Crazy" drunk time song.In the seventeenth year of Ming Chongzhen (AD 1644), Zhang Xianzhong, the leader of the peasant uprising, used Laojiao wine to inspire the soldiers of the rebel army and then began to march to Chengdu.In the fifth year of Guangxu in the Qing Dynasty (AD 1879), the annual output of Luzhou Laojiao Tequ was about 10 tons. During the Republic of China, Luzhou was known as the "Chinese Wine City".

Luzhou Laojiao Tequ is a Luzhou-flavor koji wine with a unique style of mellow and rich aroma, lingering fragrance after drinking, clear and refreshing, and long aftertaste.The fragrance of Luzhou wine floats for thousands of miles, and the locals praise "Luzhou has unique water, and the craftsmanship of Laojiao is exquisite. Open the altar, the fragrance overflows, and the wind blows half the city."As the saying goes: "A thousand-year-old cellar is bad for a thousand years." Luzhou Laojiao cellar mud contains bacteria that determine the main aroma components of Luzhou-flavor liquor.The long cellar age is an important reason for the aroma of Luzhou wine. The longer the cellar age, the more microorganisms are contained, the better the fermentation of distiller's grains is, and the more fragrant the wine is.The old pit mud contains a variety of acid bacteria, which can greatly increase ethyl acetate.In addition, the water is good, the essence of koji, and the fermentation and distillation process are exquisite. The water for brewing is taken from the heart of the Ganquan River, and the high-quality glutinous sorghum produced in Sichuan is selected. The koji is made of wheat. Seasoning wine is added, so the wine has a good aroma and texture. Yibin Wuliangye Wuliangye Liquor is produced in Yibin, Sichuan, the first city along the Yangtze River in thousands of miles. It is located at the confluence of the Yangtze River and the Minjiang River, with good mountains, good water, and good wine.Yibin has a warm climate and clear water, which is suitable for the reproduction of microorganisms. The viscous yellow mud is widely distributed, which is convenient for building old cellars.Wuliangye uses five raw materials: sorghum, glutinous rice, wheat, rice, and corn, so it is named Wuliangye.It is a Luzhou-flavored wine and one of the "Five Golden Flowers" (Luzhou Laojiao Tequ, Langjiu, Jiannanchun, Quanxing Daqu, Wuliangye) in Sichuan Province.The fragrance is long, the taste is mellow, the entrance is sweet, the throat is clean and refreshing, and the flavors are harmonious and just right.People praise the beauty of Wuliangye wine in that it "acquires the elites of Wuliangye; obtains the yeast of history; enjoys the unique geographical advantages; and obtains the outstanding talents of blending". , the clearness of wheat wine in one body.From the Song Dynasty to the present, it has been refined through repeated exploration and refinement over thousands of years. In 1979, under the guidance of the famous mathematician Professor Hua Luogeng, Wuliangye Distillery used the optimization method to reduce the alcohol concentration of Wuliangye to 39 degrees, and still maintained the style of "fragrant, mellow, sweet and clean". The blending method enables quantitative analysis of wine matching, and develops 25% and 29% Wuliangye low-alcohol wines demanded by the international market. Yellow rice wine is one of the oldest wines in the world unique to the Chinese nation, also known as old wine.Beginning in the Xia and Shang Dynasties, Qin and Han Dynasties have been widely used as medicinal wine.Around the Song and Yuan Dynasties, the ancients drank rice wine more.It is famous for Shaoxing rice wine, followed by Longyan sinking wine, Jintan sealed wine, Jiujiang aged sealed wine, Cangshang Lanling wine, Jimo old wine and so on.Rice wine is made from glutinous rice, rice, and yellow rice.The alcohol content is about 15%, the wine is mild, and the amino acid content ranks first among all kinds of wine.It has the effects of invigorating the spleen and stomach, relaxing tendons and activating blood circulation. It is called "liquid cake" and is often used as a medicinal health drink and seasoning. Shaoxing old wine is produced in Shaoxing, Zhejiang, and is one of the oldest wines in China.It has a history of more than 2400 years.According to "Lu's Spring and Autumn Annals": "The shame of the king of Yue Kuaihui [kuaikuai] Ji (now Shaoxing)... Since he raised the people, his heart has been sweet and crisp, not enough, and he dared not eat; there is wine, flowing rivers, This shows that King Goujian of Yue used wine to encourage the soldiers and the people to work together for the revival of the country, which shows that Shaoxing had already produced wine during the reign of King Goujian of Yue.Shaoxing wine entered its heyday in Ming and Qing Dynasties.Yuan Hongdao, a poet of the Ming Dynasty, wrote a poem when he came to Shaoxing when he first came to Shaoxing, saying, "every family opens a hotel, and only sings Wu songs less." There are quite a lot of them, but those who are famous old wines are special.” It can be seen that Shaoxing wine was popular all over the world in the Qing Dynasty.Mr. Lu Xun's hometown is Shaoxing, and the "Xianheng Hotel" mentioned in his famous novel sells Shaoxing rice wine. Shaoxing old wine is not distilled wine.It is made of refined white glutinous rice, wheat koji, and high-quality water from Jianhu Lake.In terms of operation, there are key points such as "three pulps and four waters", "winter pulp and winter water", "proper raking", and "perfect fermentation".The main process includes soaking rice, steaming rice, falling into vats, fermenting and raking, pressing wine, and decocting wine.This high-quality famous wine is brewed due to the unique skills handed down from generation to generation, superior raw materials and excellent water quality.Shaoxing old wine has a comprehensive style of fragrance, alcohol, softness, mellowness and refreshingness, and a flavor of sour, sweet, bitter, spicy and fresh. Chinese wine was first brewed in Xinjiang.According to "Historical Records Dawan Biography", in the third year of Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty (138 BC), Zhang Qian was ordered by Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty to go to the Western Regions. , the long-term is undefeated for decades."It can be seen that before Zhang Qian traveled to the Western Regions, there was wine made from grapes in Xinjiang, and it was stored in large quantities, so it would not spoil for a long time.During the period of Emperor Taizong of the Tang Dynasty, the grape planting industry and winemaking industry in the Central Plains developed, and Chang'an, the capital city, had already used Gaochang (Turpan) ma'milk grapes to make wine. The development of China's modern wine industry began in the 18th year of the reign of Emperor Guangxu of the Qing Dynasty (AD 1892). It was created by overseas Chinese Zhang Bishi in Yantai, Shandong Province, and has a history of 100 years.Wine is generally divided into sweet type, semi-sweet type, dry type, and semi-dry type. In addition, there are aromatized wines brewed on the basis of sweet type, such as Beijing sweet-scented osmanthus wine and foreign brandy.Sweet wine is suitable for traditional consumption habits in China. Dry wine has high acidity and good taste. It can relieve greasiness and increase appetite. Because it is brewed from 100% grape juice, it preserves grape nutrition and contains niacin and inositol, which can reduce blood lipids and soften blood vessels. So it can be popular all over the world. Famous Chinese wines include Gold Award Brandy, Gewürztraminer (Vermouth) and Red Rose Wine produced by Yantai Changyu Wine Factory. In addition, there are Beijing Red Wine, Osmanthus Aged Wine, Hebei Shacheng Great Wall Dry White Wine, etc. Chinese fruit wine is made from yellow rice wine and white wine, soaked in flowers and fresh fruits and added with essence; dew wine is fermented from various fruit juices.Fruit wine has a low alcohol content, generally between 14% and 18%, and is a good wine for people to drink at family banquets.The famous one is Zhuyeqing from Xinghua Village in Shanxi Province, which uses Fenjiu as the base liquor, carefully prepares more than 10 flavors of precious medicinal materials, and adds white sugar and rock sugar.The color is golden and emerald green, crystal clear and transparent, rich in aroma, sweet in the mouth, soft and refreshing, with a long aftertaste.It has the functions of soothing qi and activating blood circulation, nourishing the liver and strengthening the spleen.Beijing Lianhua Baijiu was originally the imperial dining wine of the Qing Dynasty. Now it is re-brewed and released. It is sweet and delicious, and has the effect of nourishing yang and tonifying kidney.Others include Lianyungang Huaguoshan hawthorn wine, Jiangxi Nanfeng champagne wine, Guizhou Anshun quinoa sparkling wine, Hunan Cili kiwi juice wine, and Changbai Mountain schisandra wine.China's fruit wine has developed rapidly in recent years and is in the ascendant. It adapts to the contemporary health care and advocates the new trend of drinking low-alcohol wine, and has great potential for development. Beer is a young alcohol in China.It has been less than a hundred years since the Russians built a brewery in Harbin in 1990. However, in the past half century, the development has been much faster than that of other wines, and the output has increased sharply, ranking second in the country's wine production. Beer, also known as ale, is a kind of low-alcohol wine containing carbon dioxide made by fermentation with barley malt and hops as the main ingredients and corn as auxiliary materials. In 1972, the Ninth World Nutritional Food Conference recommended beer as one of the nutritional foods, which was called "liquid bread".It is the wine with the largest output in the drinking wine in the world, and has become the most popular drink in some western countries.my country's beer production in 1993 exceeded 11.9008 million tons, second only to the United States, Germany, the Soviet Union, the United Kingdom, and Japan, ranking sixth in the world and second in Asia.The famous beer in China is Tsingtao Beer, which uses domestic high-quality barley, rice, hops and Laoshan mineral water as raw materials. The beer is clear, the foam is white, and the taste is mellow. In December 1985, Tsingtao Brewery won the championship at the International Beer Competition held in Washington, USA.In addition, Beijing Special Five-Star Beer, Shanghai Beer, Guangdong Zhaoqing Beer, Dalian Snow Beer, and Yantai Podari Beer are also high-quality beers.