Chapter 19 Second Day Dress

In addition to displaying ritual vessels, the ancients also needed to wear dresses when holding ceremonial activities.Different etiquette requires wearing different dresses.Therefore, ancient dresses have many different shapes and styles, and each has a specific name.For example, sacrificial attire was worn for sacrifices, court attire for court meetings, military attire for military ceremonies, wedding attire for weddings, and mourning attire for funerals, thus forming a set of clothing system in conjunction with the etiquette system.Since the Western Zhou Dynasty, almost all dynasties have set up the post of "sifu", responsible for providing corresponding clothing to the emperor and concubines according to the content of etiquette activities and in accordance with the regulations of the etiquette system. "Sifu is in charge of the good and bad clothes of the king, distinguishing its name and object from its use." ("Zhou Li · Chun Guan · Si Fu")

The costumes worn during sacrifices in the Zhou Dynasty were Xuan (black or black and red) clothes, and 纁失 (纁, red; shang, the ancients called the lower clothes shang, that is, skirts).Wearing crown clothes when offering sacrifices to heaven, God, and the five emperors (five emperors in ancient legends, namely Taihao (Fuxi), Yandi (Shennong), Huangdi, Shaohao, and Zhuanxu (xu need)); when offering sacrifices to the ancestors Dagon Mian (painted with dragon patterns on the clothes); Yu Mian (painted with pheasant, mountain pheasant and other bird patterns on the clothes) when offering sacrifices to the ancestors and shooting; Wu Mian (painted on the clothes with tiger, 蜼 (weiwei, that is, long-tailed ape), algae (that is, water plants), fire, rice and other patterns); when offering sacrifices to Sheji, Ximian (clothes made of fine kudzu and embroidered); offering sacrifices to all things in the four directions At that time, he wore the Xuanmian (no decoration on the clothes).It can be seen that there are only one ritual system of sacrifice, and there are many different costumes and names, which are worn when worshiping different objects.Because sacrifices belong to the category of auspicious rituals in the "Five Rituals", these costumes are collectively referred to as "auspicious clothes".The auspicious clothes are also different according to the level of rank, that is, the crown clothes worn by nobles of different ranks are different. It is like the clothes of a gentleman; the clothes of a son and a man are like the clothes of Hou Bo from the crown of the crown; the clothes of the lonely are like the clothes of a man from the crown of Xi; the clothes of the minister and the official are like the clothes of the lonely ("Zhou Li Chun Guan Si Fu").What is stipulated here is the highest level of clothing for nobles of different levels: that is, the Duke, like the Son of Heaven, also has five sacrificial dresses; The baron has three dresses except the Dagon Mian and the Yu Mian; as for the Gu, there are only two dresses, the Xi Mian and the Xuan Mian; the Qing and the Doctor can only have the Xuan Mian.What is stipulated here is the level difference in the costumes of nobles of different levels, but in some sacrificial activities, nobles of different levels and the emperor wear the same dress with the same name.For example, when holding small sacrificial ceremonies to sacrifice all things in the four directions, the emperor must wear Xuanfu, and from below the emperor to Qing and Dafu, according to the regulations of the etiquette system, Xuanfu should also be worn.This is contrary to the purpose of the etiquette system that distinguishes between high and low ranks, so Zhou Li also made specific regulations on the style of clothing, mainly from the number and length of the crowns on the crown, the color and quantity of jade embellished. Distinctions are made to show the superiority and inferiority of the status.Just like the Xuanmian, there are three pieces of jade on the front and back of the crown plate for the Son of Heaven, each with 12 pieces of jade, and there are 72 colorful jade stones in total.From the Duke and below, the number of xuanmian or jade stones decreases successively. At the level of Qing and Dafu, there are only two xuanmian at the front and back, each with three three-color jade stones, and there are only 12 jade stones in total.

During the Western Zhou Dynasty, when the court meeting was held, the bean suit was used as the dress.Bianfu has several shapes such as Juebian, Pibian, and Weibian (made of cooked leather and dyed red).Among them, Wei Bian is often used as clothing for military uniforms (also known as field hunting uniforms).Bian is just a hat, and military uniforms are often armored clothes.The earliest armor was also made of leather, and it was called armor.Later, armor made of copper and other metals appeared, which was called armor.Military uniforms are clothing used for combat and hunting, and have the functions of defense and protection.The military uniform mainly protects the vital parts of the body, so it is actually composed of three parts: breastplate, plastron, and shoulders.But if it is not on the battlefield, when the military salute is worn, it is called Zhongjia, which means that the nails are on the inside of the coat.Zhongjia developed to descendants, also known as war robes.

After the Han Dynasty, the official system was strictly hierarchical, especially after the Western Jin Dynasty, the rank was used to mark the rank of the official position, so the official clothing was also a part of the formal attire.According to different wearing occasions, official uniforms are also divided into court uniforms, official uniforms, military uniforms, regular uniforms, and official uniforms.There are more strict distinctions in style: one is to distinguish official grades by the color of clothing.In the first year of Shangyuan (AD 674), Emperor Gaozong of Tang Dynasty stipulated that civil and military officials of the third rank and above should wear purple, the fourth rank should wear dark scarlet (red), the fifth rank should wear light scarlet, the sixth rank should wear dark green, the seventh rank should wear light green, and the eighth rank should wear dark blue. , Ninth rank clothing light blue.Since then, the three colors of purple, scarlet and green have become the basic colors of official uniforms.As for yellow, it was not a special color for emperors. Before the early years of the Tang Dynasty, yellow was also very common for folk clothes.During the reign of Emperor Gaozong of the Tang Dynasty, the county captain of Luoyang used to wear yellow clothes, but he was beaten when he went out for a walk one night.When the news spread to the palace, the government of the Tang Dynasty believed that yellow was not suitable for ordinary people, so they ordered all the subjects to stop wearing yellow.The second is to distinguish superiors and inferiors by the "pattern clothing" system. The so-called chapter clothing means that officials who wear purple and scarlet (red) must wear fish bags when they enter the court.A fish bag is a bag decorated with gold or silver that contains fish charms. The charms can be divided into two halves.This system, which began in the Tang Dynasty, was originally used as an identity certificate for officials to enter and exit the palace city under the imperial edict. They entered the palace with the left fish amulet and left the palace with the right fish amulet. Entry and exit are allowed, and the official name is engraved on the bag.The fish bag in the Song Dynasty lost this function, but was used as a symbol of official status. The fish bag was also decorated with gold or silver in the shape of a fish, usually tied on a leather belt around the waist and hanging behind the back.Officials in the Song Dynasty were honored to receive Jinzi (goldfish bag, purple clothes) and Yinfei (silverfish bags, scarlet clothes).The official status is distinguished by the color of the official uniform and the different accessories, and the signs are very obvious.When people see their clothes, they will know their position.Even so, the Ming Dynasty added a "buzi" to the official dress as a symbol of official rank, making this symbol more obvious.The so-called patch is actually a kind of clothing, that is, a square piece of silk is adorned on the front chest and back of the official uniform, and various patterns are embroidered on it.The pattern of the two patches on the front and back of the same official uniform is the same.This kind of official uniform with patches is called patch clothing, and it was also called patch jacket in Qing Dynasty.Although the patterns of the buns in the Ming and Qing dynasties were different, they had a common feature, that is, the buns of civil officials were patterned with birds, while those of military officers were patterned with animals.

The third is to mark the grade with the shape of the crown.There are also many types of crowns in the costumes of bureaucrats in the past dynasties. These crowns vary in shape, style and color according to their official positions.In the mid-Song Dynasty, it was stipulated that from Qiliang to Erliang, Jinxian crowns were divided into seven grades.From below the prince, the official is demoted to one level, and the crown is reduced by one beam.In addition, the headband worn on the head (also known as Fufu head), the decoration on the clothing, the belt around the waist, the wat in the hand when facing up, and even the boots worn on the feet, There are specific regulations for officials of all ranks.As a result, the clothing system of the past dynasties was formed, and it was used as an important part of the etiquette system.After entering the Qing Dynasty, official uniforms were not only stricter in terms of system, but also more complicated in decoration.In addition to making up clothes, nobles and bureaucrats in the Qing Dynasty also wore crowns and flower feathers on their heads.The crown is a crown decoration, that is, a crown decorated with pearls or corals is added to the crown.Dingzi is also an important symbol for distinguishing official ranks. The higher the official position, the more the number of Dingzi, the greater the number of beads, and the more exquisite the quality and decoration.The highest level of the top is three floors, but only the emperor is eligible to enjoy it.As for the decoration of beads and coral on the top, it also shows the difference of grade.The emperor and first-rank civil and military officials all use pearls as their tops, although of course there are differences in quantity.But from the second-rank officials down, regardless of civil or military officials, the crowns are not decorated with pearls, or corals, gems, or crystals.Because the crown in the official uniform of the Qing Dynasty was a sign of being an official, so when an official was dismissed, his crown was also removed.Hualing is also a kind of crown decoration, that is, a feather of sparrow tail hangs backward from the top of the crown.Like Dingzi, Hualing is also a symbol of official status.The distinguishing mark is the "eye" at the end of the plumage.The so-called eyes refer to the very distinct circle-shaped feathers at the tail end of the feathers.The common ones are single-eyed, double-eyed, and three-eyed. The feathers without eyes are called Lanlings. Those who wear Lanlings have low official positions, and the higher the official position, the more eyes there are.