Chapter 54 Chapter 10 Conclusion

Looking at the 5,000-year history of clothing development, we can see that the ancient clothing culture, which is an integral part of my country's ancient culture, is so rich and colorful.For thousands of years, the ancient costumes of our country have always maintained the inherent characteristics of the Chinese nation, while constantly absorbing foreign applicable things.In the Qing Dynasty, it can be said that the variety of clothing, the gorgeous color, the fine texture, and the exquisite production have reached their peak.All of these fully demonstrate the intelligence and ingenuity of the laborers, embody their ingenuity and creative spirit, and show that only the millions of working people are the creators of my country's splendid culture.

Today, when we face a rich and colorful clothing culture, we will sincerely thank nature for its inspiration and gifts. It is the severe cold and heat of nature, the stimulation of wind, rain, thunder and lightning that made our ancestors have the need to create clothes, shoes and hats. In the long course of development, human beings have lived and multiplied and become stronger day by day; it is also the flowers, plants, trees, sun, moon and stars, mountains, rivers, streams, singing of birds and animals in nature that inspire the wisdom and inspiration of the ancestors, gain the feeling of beauty, and absorb the Create a blueprint for clothing.The twelve chapter patterns in traditional official uniforms are obviously taken from various objects in nature, not to mention the colorful and varied embroidered fabrics.

Ancient costumes strongly reflect the differences in rank and status.In class society, the rulers of past dynasties used various means, including clothing weaving, to embody their will, express their privileges, consolidate and strengthen their dominance, and maintain the supremacy and inviolability of their power.When Emperor Gaozu of the Han Dynasty Liu Bang first won the world, he had a banquet with his officials.During this period, the generals yelled and shouted, competed for merit while drunk, drew their swords and hit the pillars, all without any rules.Shusun Tong formulated the etiquette and clothing, so that the ministers had a strict set of etiquette when they met the emperor, and stipulated that people of different identities should use different crowns and clothes, clearly distinguishing the superior from the inferior, and strengthening the hierarchy.After several changes, step into the norm.This made Liu Bang sigh from the bottom of his heart: "I know today that I am the emperor's nobleman" ("Hanshu · Shusun Tongzhuan").It is for this reason that all dynasties have a set of etiquette system, which stipulates that members of society live a corresponding life according to their own ranks.The most basic needs of people, such as clothes, hats, shoes and socks in clothing, house furniture for living, and daily necessities, must be strictly classified in terms of color, material, pattern, and shape.The reason why our country attached great importance to clothing in ancient times was that it valued people's identity, and clothing can best show identity in interpersonal communication.The feudal rulers of all dynasties paid great attention to the construction of the public service system at the beginning of the change of dynasties, and formulated strict laws to ensure the supremacy and inviolability of their privileges.For example, the "Law of the Ming Dynasty" promulgated in the early Ming Dynasty had strict punishment regulations for those who leapfrogged and usurped public service and utensils, and some even imposed the death penalty.In the eighth year of Hongwu (AD 1375), Liao Yongzhong, Marquis of Deqing, was executed for illegally using dragon and phoenix because of the dragon pattern on his clothes.For the guilty officials of the past dynasties, the usurpation of clothing often constituted a major crime.During Yongzheng (1723-1735 A.D.), Nian Gengyao, the Taibao, committed suicide. Among his crimes were several crimes of usurpation of clothing.In the long feudal society of our country, the later period, the regulations of the ritual system became more and more detailed, which can be seen from the regulations on public service in the Ming and Qing Dynasties.For example, the make-up clothes of officials in the Ming Dynasty strengthened the rank marks compared with the pinse clothes of officials in the Tang Dynasty.Although the Qing Dynasty, the last feudal dynasty, ordered the complete change of Han-made clothing, the supplementary uniforms for officials were completely inherited, modified and developed.The clan and Jueluo, both belonging to the royal family, also have strict differences in uniforms, and repeated orders are strictly prohibited to confuse them.

Clothing also strongly reflected class oppression.The feudal society emphasizes that "there are ranks for high and low, and there are equal ranks for service." People in the world know high and low by seeing their service.In the highly hierarchical ancient society, it was the rank of the official rank that determined the status of the nobles, not the officials.The numerous regulations in the Yufu Zhi of the past dynasties are regulations on the rank and clothing of officials headed by emperors, while most of them are restrictions and prohibitions on common people.Among the common people in feudal society, scholars, peasants, workers, and merchants ranked last. No matter how rich the rich merchants were, they could only wear inferior silk and cloth according to the law.Liu Bang went to Luoyang in the eighth year after he won the world. Seeing the merchants dressed in gorgeous clothes, he immediately ordered: "Jiaren should not get clothes such as brocade, qi 縠, 絺纻, 罽 [jiji, wool felt and other things]." ( "Hanshu·Gaodi Ji") Ming Dynasty also explicitly restricted merchants from wearing silk and yarn.As for those craftsmen who make exquisite clothes, they are not only legally deprived of the right to enjoy their own fruits, but also often make wedding clothes for others in rags in real life. "The two ends of the shuttle are pointed, and there is no money for food, and the silk and satin weaves are woven, and the rags are worn." This song sung by weavers in Suzhou and Hangzhou in the Ming Dynasty vividly and profoundly reflects this reality.

The level of social productivity and economic conditions have a major impact on the development and changes of ancient Chinese clothing.In a primitive society with low productivity, people are busy with food every day, and it is impossible to hope for beautiful clothes.Even in the Yin and Shang Dynasties of the slave society, slave owners could completely deprive slaves of their labor fruits and enjoy the best clothing, but it could only be relatively good in terms of the social and economic conditions at that time.Therefore, the development of clothing is becoming more gorgeous and perfect with the development of social productivity and economy.With the rapid development of social productivity, the increasing prosperity of the economy, the continuous advancement of science and technology, the increasing abundance of material materials, and the increasing improvement of people's living standards, with the gradual increase in people's desire for material enjoyment, people's desire for gorgeous clothing packaging and breaking through the constraints of etiquette is also increasing. It becomes a natural requirement.With the advent of the prosperous dynasty, the ruling class pursued more enjoyment, the legal system gradually relaxed, and the ritual system also accelerated its destruction.In the middle and late stages of the dynasties, it is generally seen that the rulers continuously issued prohibitions against violating the etiquette system.During the Hongzhi period in the middle of the Ming Dynasty (1488-1505 A.D.), an edict was issued to prohibit officials who should not wear python clothes from begging for more python clothes.Regarding the color and pattern of the clothes, although we have carefully clamped them, private weaving is not allowed, and "the one who warns is no longer", but it is still a long-standing habit, and "it cannot be stopped".In the sixteenth year of Zhengde (AD 1521), Zhu Houcong ascended the throne and issued an edict: "Recently, the jade belts, python dragons, flying fish, and bullfighting costumes are indiscriminate. They are all miscellaneous officials and generals everywhere begging for their fate. They are not allowed today. The military rank is low. It is also forbidden for officials to usurp the public and marquis's clothes" ("History of Ming Dynasty·Yu Fu Zhi").In the seventh year of Jiajing (1528 A.D.), the legal uniforms of the Baiguan Yanju were ordered. The reason for this is that "the uniforms of the officials in Yanju have not been clearly established, and weird people compete to make them strange clothes, and they mess up the rules" ("History of the Ming Dynasty". "Yufu Zhi").In the late Ming Dynasty, the government was chaotic and corrupt. There were many small eight-rank sesame officials, and there were many people wearing gold belts and clothes.Women from ordinary families also broke the ban and wore the long-awaited high-end clothing embroidered in red.As for the costumes of the rich and gentry's family, they are even more spectacular, without any scruples.The pursuit of gorgeous clothing has become a fashion.This phenomenon was particularly serious in the late Qing Dynasty.In the early Qing Dynasty, wearing flower feathers was extremely valuable, and Han people and foreign civil servants were rarely rewarded.In the late Qing Dynasty, internal affairs were corrupt, foreign aggression was frequent, and the government repeatedly used troops. Wearing a flower feather on top became a reward for those who were loyal to the royal family.During the Daoguang period (1821-1850 A.D.), there was another donation rule, as long as anyone had money, anyone could donate a cap.The group python pattern may not be graded.Even commoners can wear the autumn colors and the unique four-slit gown that are exclusive to the royal family.Other gold embroidery, colorful embroidery, fox fur, etc., can be enjoyed by wealthy families.At this time, the decisive factors are not only power and status.

Social thought and awareness are also an important factor affecting ancient Chinese clothing.The changes in ideology in each period will be directly and indirectly reflected in clothing.For example, in the Song Dynasty, under the influence of Cheng-Zhu Neo-Confucianism, which "invigorates the principles of heaven, eliminates human desires, and strictly educates people", people's emotions and desires were restricted to their hierarchical identities, and frugality became the prevailing custom at that time.Reflected in the clothing, it seems more conservative and restrained, and the colors are not very lively and bright.In the late Ming Dynasty, with the development of the commodity economy, the germination of capitalism, and the growth of the citizen class, the idea of ​​equality and individual liberation began to rise. The feudal order of honor and inferiority was impacted, and people's concept of right and wrong, honor and disgrace also changed greatly. .In the face of money, Gangchang Mingjiao is powerless, and it is taken for granted that it is beyond the rules and regulations.People compete for luxury, like Pu Congyan, as long as they have money, anyone can dress up to their heart's content.Even the musicians of the teaching workshop who were only allowed to wear green headscarves in the past dared to wear civil robes painted with birds and birds to enter and exit the song stage and dance pavilions; Compete for beauty.The change of ideology affects the evolution of clothing and reflects social customs, and the evolution of clothing in turn affects social thought and consciousness.

The relationship between ancient Chinese costumes and ethnic groups is close and complicated.my country is a multi-ethnic country. For thousands of years, various ethnic groups have influenced and absorbed each other in clothing, thus forming the rich and colorful clothing characteristics of the Chinese nation.This kind of absorption and integration among nationalities is the mainstream of clothing development.And this one is different.Some are out of the needs of their own survival and development.For example, in the Warring States Period, King Wuling of Zhao changed his uniform in order to enrich the country and strengthen the army, and wash away the national humiliation.Therefore, despite the opposition from the domestic conservatives, when King Wuling put forward the innovative principles of "all laws and regulations are suitable, clothes and equipment are convenient for use", and "the country does not need to be ancient" ("Historical Records·Zhao Shijia") After that, people will be convinced.Some are due to the needs of natural integration among nationalities.For example, in the Tang Dynasty, on the basis of people of all ethnic groups living in different places and interacting closely, their costumes learned from each other's strengths to complement each other's weaknesses, and a situation of colorful costumes and a hundred flowers blooming in the Central Plains appeared.Hufu's features of narrow tight fit, round neck and slits were absorbed, thus forming the "Que骻 (kua) gown" of the Tang Dynasty; while the rulers of other ethnic groups were obsessed with the wide gown and large sleeves. Han suit.This fusion and absorption of ethnic costumes is not difficult to find clues in the modern costumes of various ethnic groups. The mutual absorption and influence of ethnic costumes promotes the enrichment and development of costumes. This is one aspect.On the other hand, the contradictions and struggles among nationalities will also be reflected through clothing.When a nation invades and oppresses another nation, the oppressor often uses coercive means to force the enslaved nation to change its costumes as a symbol of victory, conquest, and enslavement of other nations; and the enslaved nation often rises up to resist , as a means of resisting slavery and oppression.In this case, changing clothes and anti-changing clothes has become one of the contents of the national struggle.The situation when the Manchus first entered the customs fully illustrates this point.

Clothing embodies the unique culture of human beings.It is a symbol of human civilization.In the 5,000-year history of civilization of the Chinese nation, the development and evolution of clothing reflects the rich social connotations of politics, economy, nationality, and culture, and is a comprehensive reflection of material civilization and spiritual civilization in a certain period.Understanding the history of a nation's costumes is also helpful to understand the trajectory of the nation's development, although this is just a side, a small window.