Chapter 39 Section 6 Yuan Dynasty Official Clothes and Common Clothes

Mongolians have long worn their hair in buns, wearing hats in summer and hats in winter.Their fur hats, fur jackets, and leather boots are mostly made of mink and sheepskin.Leather jackets usually have a right lapel and a square collar.After the Yuan Dynasty destroyed the Southern Song Dynasty, the hierarchy was strict, and the whole country was divided into four classes: Mongols, Semu people, Han people, and Nan people.Many departments and local officials are mostly served by Mongolian nobles, and various deputy positions are taken by Semu people.Because there are high and low grades, it will naturally be reflected in clothing.Mongolian aristocrats are gorgeously dressed, followed by Semuren, followed by Han and Nan people.In 1314 AD, the Yuan Dynasty formulated the clothing and color grades, with very strict restrictions.But the Mongols and the people of all colors who acted as Qixue (Suwei Army) are not restricted.

The emperor's mianfu in the Yuan Dynasty included Dagonmian, Dagonlongfu, Shang, and Zhongdan.Dagon Mian, made of lacquered gauze, covered with 綖, blue and red.It is surrounded by cloud dragons.The mouth of the crown is surrounded by pearls.There are twelve corners at the front and back of the crown, and there are two crowns on the left and right of the crown. Around the crown, there are pearl clouds and dragon nets, which go up to the horizontal Tianhe belt, and reach the ground on the left and right.This is actually referring to the rules and regulations of the pre-Qin period, and appropriately modifying the crowns of ancient kings.Gunlong clothing is made of Qingluo, decorated with patterns such as the sun, moon, and stars.Compared with Tang and Song Dynasty clothes, this is slightly simplified.The skirt is made of Feiluo, which is shaped like a skirt and decorated with tattoos. There are 16 lines in total, and each line is embroidered with patterns such as algae and rice.The middle single is the underwear for sacrificial and court clothes, made of white gauze and trimmed in red.The emperor's clothes were brightly colored. In addition to the gorgeous nashishi (golden brocade with gold added to yarn, silk, and silk), there were also foreign fine wool fabrics, sable, silver sable, white fox, black fox and other fur.Most of the silk weaves in the Yuan Dynasty were gold-threaded fabrics, which is an unprecedented feature.

The crown prince's crown is made of nine white beads, red silk for the tassels, green silk for the ears, and a rhinoceros hairpin for the guide.Tsing Yi Zhu Chang, five chapters are in the clothes, and four chapters are in the clothes.White gauze middle single.Yu Yu double wear.Zhu Xi in white socks.This is similar to the clothes of the crown prince in the Song Dynasty, both of which are "white pearls and nine pins". The "green clothes and red clothes" in the Song Dynasty were changed to "green clothes and red clothes" in the Yuan Dynasty. The nobles of the Yuan Dynasty were covered in red and purple, and they were proud of adorning gems.It is said that during the reign of Dade (1297-1307 A.D.), a ruby ​​embedded in the top of the crown weighing one or two coins was estimated to be worth 140,000 ingots of Zhongtong (Yuanshizu Kublai Khan's reign).The particularly valuable crown cymbal hat is crowned with gold inlaid jade and decorated with rare large pearls.This is something that has never been seen in Crown before.

The official uniforms of officials in the Yuan Dynasty followed the Song system, using three colors of purple, scarlet and green.But the styles are creative, and the biggest feature is that different flower patterns are embroidered on the official uniforms: the first rank to the fifth rank are all purple clothes, the first rank is decorated with large Duke flowers, five inches in diameter; the second rank is decorated with small Duke flowers, three inches in diameter; the third rank is scattered Answer flowers, two inches in diameter, without branches and leaves; fourth-rank and fifth-rank small miscellaneous flowers, one-inch and five-fen in diameter; sixth-rank and seventh-rank flowers, all of the same color as crimson, all decorated with small miscellaneous flowers, one-inch in diameter; eighth-rank and ninth-rank are both same Green, plain but without grain ("Yuan Shi Yufu 1").Different types and sizes of flower patterns indicate different grades, which draws on the characteristics of official uniforms in the Jin Dynasty.When officials in the Yuan Dynasty wore formal dresses, they all wore lacquer gauze and showed their horns.This is the same as the attire of officials in the Song Dynasty.It can be said that their headdresses resemble Song Dynasty and their clothes resemble gold.

From the emperor to hundreds of officials all wear quality sun clothes.It is the costume of the inner court banquet in the Yuan Dynasty.Winter and summer clothing are different.There are more than a dozen kinds of winter clothes for the emperor's grandson, and there are different sets of clothes and hats.For example: if you wear Nashishi (golden brocade) and Qimianli (cut velvet), you should wear a golden brocade warm hat; if you wear scarlet, peach red, purple blue, and green treasures (those with 襕 on the clothes), you should wear a seven-treasure heavy crown; Wear red, yellow, and pink leather clothes, and red and gold warm hats, etc.There are also more than a dozen kinds of summer clothes, which are also matching clothes.For example, if you wear Nadu Nashisuo (encrusted with large beads on the golden brocade), you should wear a golden phoenix hat with a treasure top; Wait.Judging from the colors of winter and summer attire, it is heavy in winter and light in summer, which emphasizes overall coordination and requires holiness and extraordinaryness.

There are 9 kinds of winter clothes and 14 kinds of summer clothes for Baiguan. The rulers of the Yuan Dynasty held 13 court meetings every year.At this time, the emperor, ministers, and cronies wear the same color grandson clothes and toast frequently with gold cups according to title, closeness, and seniority in front of the hall. The atmosphere is warm and the scene is spectacular.On the Longevity Day, Kublai Khan wore golden and gorgeous robes, gave 2,000 nobles and military officers clothes of the same color and style, and gave the dresses of the close nobles decorated with sparkling gems and pearls.He will also choose many barons, and reward each of them with 13 suits, each of a different color, with jewels embedded in the suits.It can be seen that the emperor at that time spent money like water in order to win over officials.

Common clothes in the Yuan Dynasty also included Bijia, Baoli, Bijian, and braided jackets.Bijia, originally Mongolian clothes, was popular in the Yuan Dynasty.It has no collar and sleeves, the front is short to the waist, and the back is as long as a robe. It is tied with loops and is suitable for riding and shooting.Baoli is a kind of robe with 襕.Shoulder-to-shoulder, also known as "Hand Zi Da Hu", cross collar or round collar, right lapel, half sleeves, length to feet, pleats on the waist, with or without lace, made of brocade or fur.Braided thread jacket is a long robe with a coiled collar, narrow sleeves, braided fine pleats on the waist, twisted into threads with red and purple silk, and across the waist, also known as waistline jacket.

The materials used for clothing in the Yuan Dynasty varied greatly in quality.The costumes of high-ranking officials mostly use brightly colored gold-woven brocade, and the size of the flowers indicates the level of rank.Aristocratic men's summer dresses are indispensable, with gorgeous texture, shape and decoration.But the government imposes various restrictions on civilians.In the 21st year of Zhiyuan (AD 1284), a ban was issued: all musicians, prostitutes, wine sellers, and errands are "not allowed to wear good-colored clothes."In the first year of Yuan Zhen (1295 A.D.), a ban was issued: common people could not wear the six colors of willow fang green, red and white flash, yingshuanghe, cockscomb purple, gardenia red and carmine, and could only wear natural or dark hemp, Cotton, Gebu or coarse silk.Renzong issued an edict in the first year of Yanyou (AD 1314) to determine the difference in color and color: "In recent years, the scholars and people where I live have been extravagant and beautiful, and the status has been confused. I will not take it. There are rules for the noble and the humble. Ming Dynasty system, frugality and extravagance, can benefit the people's wealth." ("Yuan Shi·Yufu 1") It can be seen that the reiteration of the service level difference is to strengthen the hierarchy difference and prevent the confusion between the government and the people (Mongolians are not restricted).The imperial edict stipulates, "In addition to the dragon and phoenix script, officials of the first and second ranks should wear gold flowers, third ranks should wear gold tassels, fourth and fifth ranks should wear cloud sleeves and belts, sixth and seventh ranks should wear six flowers, eighth and ninth ranks should wear four flower". "Common people are not allowed to wear ochre, but they are allowed to wear dark flowers, silk, silk, silk, silk, and wool. Hats and hats are not allowed to be decorated with gold and jade, and boots are not allowed to be tailored." Those who are in the forbidden limit ("Yuan History Yufu 1").These prohibitions clearly distinguish the boundaries between officials and civilians and races, which fully demonstrate the ruling concept of those in power in the Yuan Dynasty.It seems that in class society, representatives of the exploiting classes always flaunt themselves by treating their particular attire as a sign of supremacy.

It was quite common for northerners in the Yuan Dynasty to wear leather boots and felt boots.It is said that leather boots were originally created by Sun Bin in the Warring States Period.After Sun Bin's kneecap was dug out by Pang Juan, it was difficult for him to walk, so he tried to sew a kind of boots that are easy for the disabled to wear, that is, he cut the hard leather into "tops" and "soles" to make high-heeled (yao medicine) leather boots.Sun Bin wore this kind of leather boots to command the battle in a chariot and defeated Pang Juan.Some people also believe that boots are originally Hufu, and the earliest Han people used boots was King Wuling of Zhao during the Warring States Period.The Khitan, Jurchen, and Mongolian nomads in the north all wear boots, which can resist cold and be durable.There are many kinds of Yuan people's boots, and the texture is also improved compared with the past era.Such as goose top boots, swan mouth boots, cloud head boots, felt boots, (Ge Weng) [Weng Weng] boots, Korean boots and so on.The boats of the Yuan Dynasty are exquisite in shape and structure, with jade ornaments on the head and decorative patterns on the sides.