Chapter 22 Section 3 women's clothing

Compared with men's clothing in the Tang Dynasty, women's clothing has brighter colors and more styles, and pays more attention to the beauty of lines after wearing.Women's clothing mainly includes jackets, skirts, shirts, and peepers.Women wear short jackets with small sleeves; some have long skirts that drag the floor;A silk like a long scarf was draped over his shoulders.The poet Meng Haoran once described the long skirts of women in the Tang Dynasty in this way: "When sitting, the clothes linger on the curtain, and when walking, the skirts sweep away the plum blossoms." ("Spring Love") shows how chic women were at that time.

What is striking is that women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty was thin, revealing, and revealing to an unprecedented extent.In Cave 329 of the Dunhuang murals, there is a young woman sitting holding a flower lotus [jiji], wearing a Luo shirt, her breasts are faintly visible.The maids in the murals in the tomb of Princess Yongtai, the noble ladies in the tomb of Fengxu [xuxu], and the court ladies in the stone carvings in the tomb of Prince Yide all show their breasts.In the mural of Wei Dong's tomb, there is a young girl wearing a light Luo shirt, but she is actually half naked.According to the "Old Tang Book Yufu Zhi", Tang Gaozong Yonghui years (AD 650-655 years) and Xianheng years (AD 670-674 years) issued two edicts to prohibit the change of women's clothing styles, but "although it was suspended at the beginning , the spin is still there."Tang Gaozong had nothing to do with the government, and Wu Zetian held the power.She is eclectic, encouraging people to broaden their minds and pay attention to women, so there are more styles of women's clothing.After the heyday of the Tang Dynasty, the sleeves of blouses became wider and wider, and the collars were round, square, slanted, straight, sweetheart collars, and open collars.To bare the collar means to expose the chest. "Pink breasts half cover the clear snow" (Fang Gan's "Gift to a Beauty") is a description of the collar-baring dress.The characteristics of thin, transparent and revealing women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty are concentrated on the ladies, court girls and maids. Dressing itself is a kind of emotional catharsis, and the appreciation of them by the court monarchs is obviously a sense of satisfaction. .

Some women's clothing is very gorgeous, colorful, and has a variety of patterns.The colors of women's skirts are red, purple, yellow, green, etc., and the most popular is red skirts.Women in the Tang Dynasty also wore pleated skirts, which have a long history.It is said that Zhao Feiyan was established as a queen in the Han Dynasty and liked to wear skirts very much.One day, she was wearing a yunying purple dress and went to Taiye Lake (in the west of Chang'an County, Shaanxi Province) with Emperor Cheng of the Han Dynasty. air.Emperor Cheng hurriedly ordered his attendants to hold her skirt.She was saved, but the skirt was pulled out in many wrinkles.At this time, people found that wrinkled skirts were more beautiful.Therefore, the court ladies like to make skirts with many folds, named "Liuxian skirts" (see "Xijing Miscellaneous Notes" by Ge Hong in the Eastern Jin Dynasty).The most expensive clothes of noble women in the Tang Dynasty were bird skirts and flower cage skirts.The aviary skirt is a skirt made of feathers of various birds twisted into thread and silk and woven into fabric.It is said that Princess Anle, the daughter of Zhongzong, ordered Shangfang (the organization responsible for making palace utensils) to gather the feathers of birds and weave them into two skirts. Due to different viewing angles and different brightness levels, its color can be changed: one color when viewed from the front, and one color when viewed from the side. Another color, one color in the sun, another color in the shadows, all the shapes of birds appear.Making this kind of skirt costs "huge tens of thousands".Since the appearance of Princess Anle's aviary skirt, "the noble officials and rich families have followed suit, and the feathers of exotic birds and animals in Jiangling have been exhausted." ("New Book of Tang Wuxing") The flower cage skirt is made of a soft and thin A floral skirt made of translucent silk monofilament, embroidered with patterns of flowers and birds with gold and silver threads and various colored threads, is a short skirt that is covered outside the skirt.There is also a kind of clothing that is quite distinctive, which can be seen from the images of donors in the late Tang Dynasty murals in the Mogao Grottoes in Dunhuang.Her coat is beige, painted with deep purple big red flowers, blue and green leaves, gray birds, and white beasts with gray claws, eyes and tails.There are blue and green flowers on the edge of the sleeve.The waist of the skirt is very high.The color of the skirt is similar to that of the top.Flowers and leaves, blue and green.Belt in light green.Dark purple shoes with white background.The clothes of the donors combine the patterns of birds and animals, and the bright red and green are in sharp contrast, presenting a unique and eclectic style.

Silk shoes in the Tang Dynasty were characterized by a high head, especially for women.This is reflected in the stone carvings unearthed from the tomb of Princess Tang Yongtai in Qianxian County, Shaanxi Province and the silk paintings unearthed from the Tang Tomb in Astana, Turpan, Xinjiang.Women's silk shoes in the Tang Dynasty had square heads, round heads, cirrus clouds, and flower clusters.