Chapter 5 Section 3 Zhou Dynasty Regular Clothes

Men in the Zhou Dynasty performed crown ceremony at their twenties, that is, they began to wear crown hats, and seldom bald.Not wearing a hat is considered indecent and disrespectful, and it is not the behavior of a gentleman.Some scholars even regard the crown as more than life. "Zuo Zhuan Fifteen Years of Duke Ai" recorded such an event: Civil strife broke out in the state of Wei, and Zilu, a disciple of Confucius, was cut off when he resisted the enemy.At this critical moment of life and death, Zilu also said: "A gentleman dies, and the crown is inevitable." He put down his weapon and formed a tassel, but was killed by the opponent.

In addition to the hoop shape, the crown hats at that time also had flat, pointed, crescent-shaped, protruding in the middle and rolled on both sides.Generally speaking, the low and flat ones are worn by ordinary people, and the tall and pointed ones are worn by the aristocratic class.Women in the Zhou Dynasty still kept their braided hairstyles.Some braided their hair into a big bun and hung it behind their heads; to the knee. The main form of clothing in the Zhou Dynasty was the upper garment and lower garment system.To adapt to the simple furniture and furnishings at that time, they usually sat barefoot on the ground and knelt on the ground, and went out in carriages and other living conditions. The clothes of officials were slightly looser than those of the Shang Dynasty.There are two styles of sleeves, large and small, and the collar is generally rectangular collar, which is cut as " "Shape. The length of the clothes mostly reaches the knees. There are different patterns on the collar and the edge of the sleeves. The clothes use positive colors (that is, primary colors such as blue, red, yellow, white, black, etc.), and the clothes use secondary colors (that is, more than two positive colors) Multi-color blended).

Clothing in this period did not have buttons yet and was generally tied around the waist.There are still two types of belts: one is a large belt (gentry belt) made of silk fabric.When officials go to court, they can be used as a wat [huhu, a hand board for recording events].The ancients often said "搢谢", which means to insert the wat between the belts.In later generations, "搢gentry" gradually evolved into a synonym for officials.One is the pan [pan] leather (or pan belt) made of leather, which is used for fastening or hanging ornaments.In the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, due to the increasing popularity of Hufu, leather belts were more widely used and their shapes became more and more exquisite.There are many gold and silver jewels inlaid on the belt, and the two ends of the belt are also connected with hooks (later used with 鐍 [jue]) to become a "hooked belt".Because it is easy to ligate, it gradually replaced the gentry belt.

There are four main styles of clothes in this period: straight-leg single clothes, curved-leg deep clothes, skirt skirts, and Hufu. Straight train unlined clothing was a very popular clothing style at that time.Its shape can be seen in the cultural relics of the mid-Warring States period unearthed from the No. 1 Chu Tomb of the Mashan Brick Factory in Jiangling, Hubei.It generally adopts regular cutting, that is, the front body, back body and two sleeves are each in one piece, and the width of each piece roughly matches the width of the material.It is characterized by right lapel, cross collar and straight skirt.Both the body and the hem are straight, with no obvious curvature.The collar, sleeves, skirt, and skirt all have an edge, and the edges of the sleeve ends are mostly edged with colored strips of brocade in two colors.Its materials include silk, silk, brocade, tapestry, yarn and so on.Some also embroider animal patterns such as tigers, phoenix birds, and small dragons with colored silk threads on the body.

Qufu deep clothing, some people call it "wrapped skirt clothing", is a style of clothing that is connected from top to bottom that appeared in the Spring and Autumn Period and Warring States Period.It is easy to fit and has a wide range of uses. It is worn by people from all walks of life, regardless of whether they are high or low, men or women, or civil and military positions.In addition to the continuous up and down, another feature is the continuous crochet edge.This style of clothing changes the traditional tailoring method of slits at the hem of the clothes. The front and back pieces of the left skirt are sewn together, and the back piece is lengthened (that is, "continued") to make it a triangle. Belt tie.In addition, a thick brocade edge (ie "hook edge") is bordered on the main parts such as the collar and sleeves to set off the skeleton of the garment.It is mostly cut from light and soft materials.This style of deep clothing can be seen on wooden figurines and silk paintings of men and women unearthed in Changsha, Hunan, and Yunmeng, Hubei.

Ruqun is a popular clothing style in Zhongshan.Ru is a short jacket that is long to the waist and has tight-fitting narrow sleeves; skirt is a skirt made of multiple pieces of cloth with checkered patterns woven on it, and is often worn with Ru.This kind of clothing has a great influence on the development of Han clothing in the Central Plains of later generations. Hufu is a kind of clothing of northern minorities.This kind of clothing is quite different from the Han clothing in the central plains of Baoyi and Bodai.It generally consists of shorts, trousers and high boots.To adapt to the nomadic living customs, it is characterized by tight and narrow clothes, left lapel, and full crotch trousers, which are convenient for hunting and grazing.Since 325 B.C., King Wuling of Zhao tried his best to "Yi Hufu", and Hufu has gradually become popular.

Clothes worn by princes and nobles in the Zhou Dynasty were generally made of high-quality silk.Most of the poor people wear brown clothes made of animal hair or kudzu hemp twisted into threads. "Book of Songs Bin [bin Bin] Wind July" said, "Without clothes and brown, why die?" It just expresses the distressed and distressed conditions of the working people at that time.Later generations used the term "brown husband" as a synonym for the poor, which was also derived from this meaning. Peiyu has become a fashion as early as the Shang Dynasty.This can be strongly proved by a large number of richly shaped and exquisitely crafted jade ornaments unearthed from the tombs of the Shang Dynasty.In the Zhou Dynasty, people even endowed jade with various mysterious moral colors. Therefore, from the emperor to the common people, everyone was accustomed to adoring jade (called "De Pei"), and distinguished identities and ranks by the color of jade.There is the so-called difference that "the son of heaven wears white jade, the prince wears Xuanyu, the doctor wears water beryl, the son of the world wears jade, and Shi Peiwen [ruanmin soft people, a beautiful stone like jade]" ("Book of Rites · Yuzao").The shape of jade is different, and the meaning of wearing it on the body is also different.As "Xunzi Dalue" said: "Hire people with gui [guigui, a long strip of jade with a triangular shape at the top], call people with Yuan (big hole), and leave people with Jue [juejue, ring-shaped , Jades with gaps], but rings (round jade with a hole in the middle).” In addition to single users, there are also group pendants.That is to say, several pieces of jade pendants of different shapes are threaded into strings with colored threads and hung around the waist.In the group of pendants, the most valuable is the big pendant (the specific shape and structure are different) used for important occasions such as sacrifices.Hang up the big pendant and walk, and the collision of jade objects will make a pleasant clang sound.People use this to control the urgency of actions to show respect for etiquette and customs.This is what the ancients liked to say, "walking with jade".In addition, at that time, people often wore practical items such as knives, (合刂) [qiaqia], cuts, mirrors, scarves, and seals on their waists (called "Shi Pei").