Chapter 17 Section 2 Three garments and five garments

According to the tradition of primitive Buddhism in the South Asian subcontinent, or in other words, the teachings of the Buddha, there are only "three garments" and "five garments" that can be used in accordance with the law. "Three clothes" is the free translation of Sanskrit Trini Civarani, which refers specifically to the three kinds of clothes that are allowed to be owned by individuals stipulated in the Buddhist "Law".They are worn by monks, but also by nuns.They are the most basic and most formal clothing for Buddhist monks, so they are called "clothes" for short, which is the free translation of Sanskrit Civara, and the transliteration is "Zhivara".The three garments are:

Sanskrit pear (transliteration of Sanghati in Sanskrit) is sewn from nine to twenty-five strips of fabric, so it is also called nine garments; it is also called miscellaneous garments because it is made of many fabrics.It is worn on going out and on formal social occasions. The former is like going to the streets for alms, and the latter is like entering the palace.Therefore, it is also free translated as overcoat, heavy clothing, high victory clothing, entering the palace and gathering clothes, etc.It should be the most formal uniform of Buddhism, and its dressing occasion is equivalent to wearing court clothes in ancient China and tuxedo in modern Western times.Because it has a large number of strips, according to the number of strips, it is divided into the lower, middle and upper nine ranks, which are collectively referred to as "Nine Ranks Coat".

Monk Yuduoluo (transliteration of Uttarasanga in Sanskrit), is sewn with seven pieces of cloth, so it is also called seven pieces of clothing.It is worn during chanting, listening to lectures, and uposa.That is to say, it is worn when studying internally and doing formal religious work in monasteries, so it is also called entering the crowd.It is in the middle of the three clothes, so it is also called middle price clothes.It is also called a top. An Tuohui (transliteration of Antarvasa in Sanskrit) is sewn with five pieces of cloth, so it is also called five pieces of clothing.It is worn in daily non-religious work, life, and bedtime, also known as underwear, middle clothes, and middle clothes.

The sewing method of Sanyi is to cut the fabric into small square and rectangular pieces, and then sew them together.Longitudinal seams are called vertical bars, and horizontal seams are called embankments.The two are criss-crossed and then stitched together to form a paddy field, which is called "field phase". The tailoring method of nine clothes is: nine pieces of lower and lower grades, eleven pieces of lower middle grades, and thirteen pieces of lower and upper grades, all of which are connected by two long and one short; middle grades are divided into fifteen, seventeen and nineteen There are three kinds, all of which adopt the method of three long and one short in succession; the top grade has three kinds of twenty-one, twenty-three, and twenty-five, all of which adopt the method of four long and one short in succession.Among them, the most popular in Sinicized Buddhism are the twenty-five, thirteen, and nine types.Seven garments and five garments are connected by the method of two long and one short.It is said that this method is adopted mainly to prevent the vestments from being used for other purposes, and also to make the two people abandon their greed for clothes, and to prevent thieves from stealing with bad intentions.According to its production method, it is also called "cutting clothes".Ordinarily, this method of cutting new fabrics into small pieces is somewhat overkill, and may be regarded as a waste.Therefore, there is another saying of "sweeping clothes with dung".Dung sweeping clothing is a free translation of the Sanskrit Pamsu-kula, abbreviated as "dung sweeping", and also translated as "clothes" and "clothes".It is the "cassock" made by picking up the rags and rags thrown in the dung and dust, washing and sewing them together.

There are four kinds of sources of excrement sweeping clothing materials, volume 27 of "Ten Chanting Law", they are: "mound clothes" that wrap the dead and throw them in the cemetery; Clothes"; "clothes without owners" thrown in the open space that no one wants; pieces of cloth from garbage dumps that are thrown everywhere, which are called "soil clothes". Volume 39 of "The Law of Four Parts" lists ten more types: cow chewing clothes, rat gnawing clothes, burnt clothes, moon water (menstruation) clothes, maternity clothes, temple clothes, tomb clothes, and wish clothes , Accept the royal clothes, and return the clothes.According to the sixteenth volume of "Ten Dwelling Viposha Theory", wearing dung and sweeping clothes and cassocks is the most honorable and most respected.Wearing this garment has ten benefits: (1) shame; (2) protection against cold, heat and poisonous insects; (3) expressing the rites of recluses; (4) all gods and humans see the robes and respect them like a tower; (5) not greedy; (6) (7) Evil is easy to see; (8) There is no need for remnants, so it is solemn; (9) Follow the Noble Eightfold Path; (10) Carry out the path diligently, without defilement.In short, stay away from all greed in the world.We feel that this approach seems to be in line with the original intention of Shakyamuni Buddha to formulate legal clothing.According to "Great Wisdom Theory" and other classics, Sakyamuni Buddha first turned the wheel of Dharma, and for the first time five bhikkhus, the five first attained the Tao, said to the Buddha: "What kind of clothes am I waiting for?" Clothes." From this, it seems possible to guess the original intention of making the dharma clothes: even if you don't use dung to sweep the clothes, you probably have to use some scraps of cloth to make do with it, which is the original intention of the Buddha to abandon the glory of the world.The monks of Sinicized Buddhism are called "Nazi", "Naker", "Nashi", "Natu", "Namong"; Come to fit my Buddha's deep benevolence and profound righteousness.Later, Chinese folk women often used pieces of silk and satin of various colors to make quilts or baby clothes (also called "patch clothes").Although this kind of clothing looks colorful and gorgeous, its original intention of cherishing material resources probably coincides with my heart of Buddha.

The three clothes are unfolded like a large square sheet, so they are also called "square robes".Monks are called Fang Pao Ke by scribes, also called Fang Pao for short.Its wearing method is generally to hold the two corners, wrap it around the left shoulder to the right side, and fix it with ribbons or buckles (panpan).Later, especially in Sinicized Buddhism, it was much more convenient and beautiful to use a ring made of teeth, bone, fragrant wood, etc.At this time, the right shoulder is exposed, which should be the case when worshiping the Buddha, which is called the appearance of worship; when sitting in meditation, it can be placed on both shoulders, which is called the appearance of shoulders or the appearance of Futian.Incidentally, the proper noun "Zhena Huan" is probably a transliteration plus a free translation. The transliteration is "Bajana" or "Bazhena". The author has not yet found out which language it is. With high quality.

According to the "Four Parts Law", Sakyamuni Buddha sat on the open ground at the first night and wore one coat; in the middle of the night, he felt cold, so he added a second coat; in the second night, when it was colder, he added a third coat.Therefore, my Buddha thinks that the three clothes are enough and should not be overstocked.It turns out that monks and nuns are only allowed to wear three clothes. However, according to the records in "Maha Monk's Law" and "Five Parts Law", bhikkhunis only wear three clothes, which cannot cover their shoulders and chest, and are sometimes teased and ridiculed.Therefore, the Buddha formulated the "five garments" for nuns.Wuyi is a free translation of the Sanskrit Panca civarani, and is specially called "Ni Wuyi".It is two garments in addition to the three garments.Yiyi is the monk Zhizhi, which is a transliteration of the Sanskrit word Samkaksika.It is a rectangular piece of cloth, like a single bed sheet.When worn, one end is draped over the left shoulder to cover the left arm; the other end is draped obliquely to cover the right armpit.The other garment is Juesura, which is a transliteration of the Sanskrit Kusula, which is a tubular lower skirt.These two clothes were originally reserved for nuns, and later monks also wore monks' clothes.

From the above situation, it can be deduced that according to the later method of distinguishing Buddhism in Sinicization, among the clothes of primitive Buddhist monks in the South Asian subcontinent, only the clothes of the three clothes can be called "dharma clothes", that is, they can be worn on formal occasions. The first two types; the rest, including the "five clothes", the remaining three types, according to their use, are just underwear, which is equivalent to "common clothes". There is also a kind of "manyi", which is the free translation of Sanskrit Patta, and the transliteration is "Bo Zha".It is a "cassock" sewn from two full pieces of cloth.It has no "field appearance", so it is also called "mantiaoyi", or "mantiao" for short.It is a uniform specially prepared for the five congregations other than the two congregations.In Sinicized Buddhism, the three groups of novice monks, novice monks, and Shichamana must wear them.However, Upasaka and Upasika must be worn when worshiping the Buddha and attending pujas, and even more so when performing eight fastings.According to the 40th volume of "Four Parts Law", my Buddha listened to Xu Bhikshu and Bhikkhuni wearing uncut Antuo Hui, and Sinicized Buddhism used unadorned clothes as it. can also be worn.In fact, this means that the lay people and the three groups who have not received full precepts wear the unadorned robes as dharma clothes, while the second group of monks wear it as ordinary clothes.This method was also invented by Sinicized Buddhism. Primitive Buddhist monks in the ancient subcontinent of South Asia just wore the unbroken An Tuo as underwear, which is equivalent to the shirts, vests and other close-fitting clothes that our modern people wear.

Buddhist dharma clothes, especially the three clothes, have two main regulations on the use of colors: one is that colored or solid colors are not allowed.Second, on the clothes, especially on the newly made clothes, it must be painted with another color.Dots cannot be colored or solid colors.The intention is to destroy the neatness of the clothes and colors, so as to prevent the two people from being greedy for the clothes.This practice is called "bad color" or "point net". Let's talk about color first.What are colored and solid colors?According to Volume 20 of "The Law of Five Parts":

"Don't listen to pure blue, yellow, red, white and black clothes." He also said that the black clothes were worn by the birth mother. If the two people wear them, they will commit the misdemeanor of "Bo Yi Ti" (transliteration of Sanskrit Payattika, free translation "should repent") ; The other four colors, the perpetrator "Tujiluo" (transliteration of Sanskrit Duskrta, free translation "small fault"). Volume 8 of "Sapodobini Viposha" also pointed out that the "five major colors of yellow, red, blue, black, and white" cannot be used, and some pure colors such as yellow blue, turmeric, falling sand, and indigo are also unusable; but some colors Such as light blue and blue, as well as red, yellow and white with large impurities, it should be used as the lining of the clothes.Only soap color and magnolia color (transliterated as "Qiantuo" color, which is said to be a kind of red black) can be used as clothes.This sutra also mentions some unlawful colors, which are quite detailed, please refer to them, and do not repeat them.In addition, Volume 28 of "Maha Monk's Law" lists ten kinds of dyeing as unusable, and correspondingly lists five kinds of dyeing that can be used; Volume 8 of "Vinimu Sutra" also lists ten kinds of dyeing that can be used For dyeing; these are all distinguished and stipulated from the perspective of dyeing.At the end of this paragraph, you can also rap a few words about "Qiantuo": it is the transliteration of Sanskrit Gandha, and it is a tree produced in the southern part of the South Asian subcontinent. The bark can be used for dyeing.Some "Laws" say that the color it dyes is reddish yellow; others are reddish black as mentioned above.In ancient times, dyeing was often done multiple times, and it is not surprising that the colors have different shades.Whether this kind of tree belongs to the same family as the Chinese magnolia tree, I don't know, and the quality needs to be wise.

The colors of the three clothes, according to the regulations of various laws, are mainly "three bad colors", which are called "three such colors".These three colors are impure cyan, mud and magnolia. "Bad color" means "the color is not correct, not beautiful and turbid", there is a special expression in Sanskrit called "Kasaya", its original meaning refers to a kind of grass, and it is extended to be dyed from the juice of this grass The further extended free translation of "russet" is "not correct color" (the color is not correct).It is said that the "hunters" and others in the ancient South Asian subcontinent often wore clothes of this color, probably because it can be used as a camouflage color.All along, nobles and young people (especially women among them) who have strong desires and love gorgeous clothes will choose bright colors; dull or too light or too deep colors will always be regarded as incorrect colors.Buddhism forbids greed for all things that can make people greedy, and pursues a simple and unpretentious life, so it is stipulated that the color of the dharma clothes must be an irregular color, and the reddish brown of "kasaya" was probably the first choice.According to the first and second volumes of "Da Tang Western Regions", the Sanghali cassock left by Sakyamuni Buddha was yellow-red, and the nine robes left by Ananda's disciples were crimson-red; Volume 29 of Vinaya Miscellaneous Things says that the cassocks worn by the Buddha’s aunt and five hundred nuns who became monks were red, and the clothes worn by the monks mentioned in Volume 2 of the Law of Good View Viposa were also red.This shows that the color of the clothes worn by early Buddhist monks was probably the "Kasaya" color of red with black or red with yellow.Because the color is used to call the clothes, "cassock" is used as the popular name for Buddhist dharma clothes.Originally, only the word "Gaza" was used, but later two new characters were created by adding "Mao" under the word "Gaza".In the Eastern Jin Dynasty, Ge Hong created "Zi Yuan", and added "clothes" next to "Gaza", and it has been inherited since then. Above, the primitive Buddhism in the South Asian subcontinent gave a brief introduction to the selection of the color of dharma clothes and "common clothes".This choice has its own theoretical significance.From the perspective of pure practice, such regulations can be said to be good.However, from the perspective of expanding the influence of religious spread, this approach also has some shortcomings: a large group of monks went out to preach and seek alms, and judging from the tailoring of the three clothes and dung sweeping clothes, it can be said that they were dressed in rags; In terms of color, it is dull and dull.Such a beggar-like image may not be beneficial to preaching.In the process of its own development, Sinicized Buddhism carried out bold reforms. Let's talk about "clean". "Dot" has the meaning of "making small dirt and smearing"; "jing" according to Buddhist teachings, has the meaning of "abandoning faults and right and wrong to be pure".Specific to the practice on the cassock, according to the "Vinimu Sutra", it is necessary to use "three points for purification", that is: "First use mud, second use green, and third use uneven color. Use these three Three dots on clean clothes.” Later, when Chinese Buddhists received new cassocks, they sewed a small part of the old clothes on the new cassocks, or used ink to mark a few points on the new cassocks, which was regarded as cleansing.