Chapter 17 homeland fugue

Go to Xi'an to give lectures in mid-May.That was my first visit to Shaanxi, and of course it was also my first visit to Xi'an. I have been fascinated by the thousand-year-old capital for a long time, and of course I have great expectations.As a result, it was almost empty. Of course, it was my shallowness. I invested in such a profound tradition. The duration was less than five days, and there were two speeches and one activity. I can't talk about what I think. "Five-day Jingzhao"?From the Western Zhou Dynasty, the Western Han Dynasty, the Western Jin Dynasty to the Sui and Tang Dynasties, from Haojing, Xianyang, Weicheng to Chang'an, historians and even archaeologists have to talk about the changes for a long time.Since the Song Dynasty, the glory of its empire has gradually faded, so when it was Jia Pingwa's turn to write "Old Xi'an", his subtitle was simply called "The Setting Sun of the Abandoned Capital".

From the beginning to the end, the main scenic spots in the center of Xi'an today, such as the Bell Tower, the Drum Tower, the Forest of Steles, and the Big Wild Goose Pagoda, have passed through the door without entering.I heard from people in Xi'an that the bell tower and drum tower are the source of the idiom "morning bell and evening drum", and the ancients had to go to East Street and West Street to buy things, so there is the word "shopping".What moved me the most was that there is also a "Tomb of Jing Ke, a hero of the Yan Kingdom" in Xi'an.The paradox is that although I don't know much about this ancient capital, and I have seen even less, I feel deeply about it.For so many years, although I have never stepped on Situ, I have written several poems with Chang'an as the background or scene.

A speech I gave in Xi'an was called "Poetry and Chang'an": the first half cited ancient works, such as Li Bai's, Du Mu's "Going to Wu Xingdeng Le Youyuan", Bai Juyi's, Xin Qiji's "Bodhisattva Man· The book "Jiangxi Stoma Wall", and the saying that the day is near and Chang'an is far away. In the second half of the show, I will introduce my own poems about Chang'an, a total of seven poems, in order, "Looking for Li Bai", "Night of UFO", "Zhaojun", "Blind Beggar", "The Parachutist", " Assassin the King of Qin".I used a CD to project, explained and recited along the way.It's quite long, from ancient Xi'an to the Xi'an Incident, from Taohuayuan to the twelve golden men and Xu Fu's 6,000 virgins; in the middle, I introduced four lines from "The Book of Songs Qin Feng", and I recited them in a manly voice, which is quite three-dimensional Effect. "Looking for Li Bai" praises the three lines of exiled immortals: "When the wine enters the guts of a man, seven points become moonlight/The remaining three points roar into sword energy/When you rinse your mouth, you will be half of the prosperous Tang Dynasty", which has been selected into many anthologies. "Flying Saucer Night" uses science fiction to imagine how An Lushan's flying saucer troops occupied Chang'an. "Zhaojun" satirizes that what Wei Qing and Huo Qubing can't achieve, it is actually a weak woman who has to bear it. "The Blind Beggar" describes my painstaking efforts in the United States to cherish the prosperity of the Han and Tang Dynasties. At the end, there are two sentences: "A flute cries for a thousand years/Great Wall, you will eventually hear it, Chang'an, you will eventually hear it." "The Flying General" is about Li Guang, a famous general of the Han Dynasty, embracing injustice, all of which are taken from "Historical Records". "Assassination of the King of Qin" is also based on "Historical Records", but the narrative begins with Jing Ke's emotion when he failed in his assassination attempt and leaned heavily on the pillar.All Chinese scholars should know these things, and these poems will resonate with all Chinese hearts.The auditorium of Xingzhi College was full of 2,500 people. Although it lacked air conditioning, no one left the seat.

Another lecture at Xi'an Academy of Fine Arts, titled "Poetry and Aesthetics", was in a similar situation.What is more worth remembering is the school's lively school spirit and impressive campus.In the conference room and the long corridor, rows of black and white portraits attracted me to look around and stop repeatedly, just because the people in the photos have aesthetic and even cultural status. As far as I have a quick glance, at least Cai Yuanpei, Chen Yinke, Lu Xun are included. , Hu Shi, Xu Beihong, Zhu Guangqian, Liang Sicheng, Lin Huiyin, Cai Weilian (Cai Yuanpei's daughter), Lin Wenzheng (Cai Yuanpei's son-in-law, dean of Hangzhou Art School); among the foreigners there is the philosopher Marcuse who is the protagonist of the Frankfurt School.

As for why the campus is particularly impressive, it can be determined immediately at a glance.From a distance, one can see rows and rows of upright obelisks, varying in height and equal in average to human beings. The instant impression resembles a forest of steles and pottery figurines.In fact, it's not, the master said with a smile, but "horse tethering post".When I got closer, I found that those carved ashlar bodies, with thick or thin carvings, were crouching, perching, squatting, and kneeling on the top. The crouching may be a lion, and the occupant may be a bird of prey. , Those who squat may be yuren, those who kneel may be slaves, and there are even slaves or guards who straddle the back of the lion.The figure, appearance, and expression of the characters are different from those of the terracotta warriors of the Qin Dynasty. They must be Hu people, just like the Hu Yu who led the horse in Tang Sancai.The owner said that most of these tethering posts came from farms in Weibei.Looking at the map of Xi'an today, there are six or seven villages in the former site of Han Chang'an in the northwest suburbs, including Luojiazhai, Majiazhai, and Leijiazhai. They may come from those villas; of course, inns, restaurants, and government offices also need these. .While he was daydreaming, the master said that there is still a lot to see over there, and there are thousands of them on the campus.Our husband and wife were really eye-opening that day, which is very different from the bridges and boats everywhere in Jiangnan Water Town.

When I went to Xi’an, besides giving lectures, I also participated in an activity, and met the descendants of Mr. Yu Youren (1879-1964) through the introduction of Mr. Lu Bingwen, the president of the "Congee Association".You Lao is a native of Sanyuan County, Shaanxi Province. He participated in the Revolution of 1911 in his early years and later became the leader of the Kuomintang party and country. However, he has long enjoyed a high reputation as a master of calligraphy in the cultural circle.He was my senior for half a century, but in Taiwan, I never got to know him until his death.I didn't even expect that despite the confrontation between the two sides of the Taiwan Strait, despite the major changes in the Anti-Rightist Movement and the "Cultural Revolution", Shaanxi people have always maintained their respect, love and nostalgia for this distant village sage.Therefore, as early as 2002, the work of rebuilding Youren's former residence had started in Xi'an. Seven years later, it was the 130th anniversary of his birth, and it was finally completed in time.

You Lao is a master of modern calligraphy, Guanzhong Grass Sage, and it is difficult for me, who is a layman of calligraphy, to associate him with it.But he is still a famous poet, and the nostalgic poems he wrote in Taiwan are quite valued by the folks in Shaanxi.People who are interested think of my poem "Nostalgia", and even arranged for an afternoon to hold "Recalling Chang'an Talking Nostalgia" in the "Xi'an Yu Youren Former Residence Memorial Hall", which will be recited and sung by celebrities in the literary and music circles of Xi'an You Lao and I have written 20 poems in total.The grand event was planned by Yu Dafang and Yu Daping, the nephews of You Lao, and our husband and wife got to know many younger generations of You Lao, tasted the exquisite cooking skills of Yu Mansion, and appreciated the innocence and courtesy of You Lao's great-grandchildren.

For this senior, I once made a couplet: "The leftover ink is dripping on the wall, and the beard is as suave as the wind." In order to write about my trip to Xi'an, I read Jia Pingwa's "Old Xi'an".I originally thought that contemporary masters like Jia Pingwa would not mention You Lao, who had an opposing consciousness and had passed away for many years.Unexpectedly, he said that Yu Youren had traveled all over Guanzhong to search for steles, and almost searched all the Wei and Jin steles in Shaanxi. Yu Youren not only loves his calligraphy, but also loves his patriotic heart. He is a sage who can do mediocrity, and he is always careful as an adult." Finally he said: "Yu Youren, Wu Mi, Wang Ziyun, Zhao Wangyun, Shi Lu, Liuqing... are enough to make the people of Shaanxi and the city of Xi'an proud. Every time I go to the top of the city and look at the streets and alleys that cross from north to south, I can't help but think of them."

Jia Pingwa's "Old Xi'an" is written naturally and deeply, which shows that the author is really a man of temperament.There is also such a paragraph in the book, which is worth pondering: "Chairman Mao lived in northern Shaanxi for thirteen years, but he never returned to Shaanxi after the founding of New China, and he didn't even mention Yan'an at all. This made Shaanxi people lose face I was only in Xi'an for a few days, and happened to meet the 70th anniversary of the publication of Mao Zedong's "Speech at the Yan'an Forum on Literature and Art".

During the trip to Xi'an, although I didn't have the chance to visit all the ancient sites, or even go to see the flowers, fortunately, I also went to the "Xi'an Museum", which slightly relieved the regret of "I hate the ancients and I don't see them".The museum covers a large area and consists of the museum, Jianfu Temple and Small Wild Goose Pagoda.I have been to Xi'an more than ten years ago, and this time I accompanied me, and I couldn't enjoy the cultural relics she wanted to see. Fortunately, we still lingered in this museum for nearly an hour.The tiles from the Qin Dynasty, the gilded bronze bells from the Western Han Dynasty, the three-color terracotta figurines riding horses and gilded walking dragons from the Tang Dynasty still satisfy our nostalgia and aesthetic feeling.I have served as a volunteer tour guide for the Kaohsiung Art Museum for 16 years, and last year I was awarded a service medal from the "Cultural Development Association".She knew a lot about ancient cultural relics, especially ancient jade, and didn't really need others to explain. After a few times, the tour guide in the mainland knew that she had met an expert.

Another thing, she will not accompany me.First, under the shade of the blooming pomegranate tree, we looked up at the Small Wild Goose Pagoda, which was in the air, and I immediately decided to climb to the top.The tour guide is a very handsome young man. He said, sorry, but it is stipulated that people over the age of 65 are not allowed to climb.I have traveled all over the world and climbed almost every tower. The Basilica of Santa Maria del Fiore and Jueduo Bell Tower I climbed in Florence two years ago were both taller than the Small Wild Goose Pagoda in front of me. How could I refuse the call of Tang Dynasty Fengyun?So I said to the tour guide, why not accompany me to climb to the third floor first, and if I see Yu Yong Ke Jia, let me go all the way to the top.He agreed, and he and Bingwen accompanied me to the third floor. Seeing that I was fine, he simply let me climb up.The inner walls of the first floor are tightened, and when the tenth floor is reached, the space inside becomes more and more compelling, and the climbers can't help but shrink their heads and necks, bend their elbows and bow their waists, and become humble.At the same time, the scenery outside the tower keeps creeping down.At this time, no one can distract to help others.In this way, he could pull himself out of the spiral, not letting the earth man drag his legs behind, and finally got to the top of the tower.The whole of Xi'an is underfoot.The suffering of the feet, the joy of the eyes, and the samadhi of climbing the heights are nothing more than that.I always believe that climbing high and overlooking the distance is equivalent to reporting to the gods, and the intention is to finally pay tribute to the ancient dynasties of the past.The grand event of the princes ascending the pagoda of Ci'en Temple cannot be synchronized with Du Fu and Cen Shen, so it can be regarded as a false response to the story. Writing travel notes is at least much more practical. The tour guide is familiar with the history and has an extraordinary conversation. It can be seen that he has great ambitions and the spirit of worrying first before taking pleasure. "Jiwei".I said to him, "I will hear your name again in the future." This time I went to Xi'an, I missed too many places of interest, so I can only hope for the future.But one of them was missed for no reason, which especially puzzled me.That is the "Le Youyuan" that appears repeatedly in Tang poetry.The strangest thing is: every time I mention it to people in Xi'an, the reaction is always indifferent, either I don't know what it is, or I know it is there but I don't care.Some people also say that this place exists and is still there, but you can’t go there. The second half of Li Bai's poem goes like this: "On the Qingqiu Festival in Leyouyuan, the ancient roads in Xianyang are full of sound and dust. The sound of dust and dust, the afterglow of the west wind, and the mausoleum of the Han Dynasty." Wang Guowei praised the next two sentences, saying: "There are only a few characters. , to close the mouth of climbing through the ages." The so-called "climbing" here refers to the Leyouyuan, and the tomb of the Han family.Du Fu's seven ancient "Songs of Leyou Garden" chanted the prosperity of Chang'an ladies and gentlemen at the Spring and Autumn Festival at that time. The first four sentences are: "Leyou Ancient Garden is green and refreshing, with smoke and green grass growing long. The banquet of the son Hua is the highest, and Qin Chuan is right The wine is as flat as the palm of your hand." It is urgent to say that the terrain is high and the field of vision is wide.The last two sentences of the poem are: "This body has no place to return after drinking, and sings poems independently and boundlessly." It is of course a resort to make people "independent and boundless". In the late Tang Dynasty, another pair of sad people, Li and Du, came here to climb high and cherish the past.Li Shangyin's "Le You Yuan" is very famous: "Xiang Wan felt unwell, so I drove to the ancient Yuan. The sunset is infinitely beautiful, but it's just near dusk." Du Mu has two poems of Qijue and their places. The solitary bird is gone, and the ancients have sunk here. Looking at the cause of the Han family, there is no tree in the Wuling to raise the autumn wind." Another song "Will Go to Wu Xingdeng Le Youyuan" also said: "It is incompetent to have a taste in the Qing Dynasty. Leisurely love lonely clouds and quiet love monks. If you want to go to the rivers and seas, you can travel to the original to look at Zhaoling." The pre-quoted prosperous Tang Dynasty and the late Tang Dynasty each have their own places for Li and Du to chant.Leyou was originally located in the southeast of Chang'an, and what the poet looked at when he ascended the heights was towards the northwest. Whether it was the five tombs of the Han Dynasty or the five tombs of the Tang Dynasty, it made people nostalgic for the past and hurt the present, with a poetic and historical feeling.In the early Tang Dynasty, Wang Bo wrote a poem titled "Spring Feast and Amusement in the Garden, Fu Yun De Jie Zi". Because it was a spring outing, and the Tang Empire was just beginning, there was no such thing as Li, Du or even Chen Zi'ang admiring the past and present. When I went to Xi'an, I was invited by Li and Du, and I thought that I could go to the ancient plains, hang on to the soul of Tang Dynasty, and prove my feelings of reciting Tang poems since I was a child.The result was a blank.Seeing that I was unwilling to give up, the owner of Xi’an really drove for me one night, not to Dengguyuan, but to the southeast suburb of Xi’an, at the starting point of an uphill slope. Under the dim street lights, the iron gate was closed, and there was a notice on it. A wooden sign with a big book "Xi'an Leyouyuan" in scrawled fonts.That's all, nothing else.