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Chapter 10 popular saying popular

popular hero 孔庆东 8414Words 2018-03-18
Since China entered the stage of barbaric development with great fanfare 30 years ago, the diet of Chinese people has also become increasingly "barbaric".In addition to eating old grains and drinking poisonous milk, barbecues are everywhere in large and small cities, and the streets and alleys are smoky, which is one of its symbols.Starting from Chen Peisi's blatantly grilling mutton kebabs on the Spring Festival Gala, it has developed to grill everything from land, sea, and air, to Malatang, and even garlic, banana, and radish skins can be grilled.To paraphrase an article by Mr. Lao She, it can be said that "it is a god to be roasted without dying".

At the beginning of the new century, I hibernated in South Korea for two years; after five years, I lived in seclusion in Japan for a year, and found that barbecue is also popular in South Korea and Japan, but the scale is relatively small, not even one-tenth of that in China.China is now full of Korean barbecue towns, such as Kwonjin City and Halla Mountain, which lead Chinese people to mistakenly think that Korean friends eat barbecue every day.This is like a simple foreigner who has just learned Chinese and thinks that Chinese people eat Peking duck every day.The food in Japan and South Korea is more expensive, and the common people can go to restaurants every day no more than Chinese citizens.Like the Chinese way of eating, the leftovers thrown away every year can feed two Africans. No matter which foreign country can afford it, it will collapse the economy in less than 3 years.The Chinese are too good at eating, and a few decades ago, the people's communes were doing well, but suddenly there was a trend of "big canteens", where people started gangs to eat and drink for nothing.As a result, the collective economy in many places was devastated, and the price of a year of binge eating was three years of starvation.People in foreign countries have never eaten like this.For example, in South Korea, kimchi and miso soup are usually the main food, which are economical and healthy. Going out every now and then to fight tooth festivals can improve your life.

When I was in Korea, Korean friends were very proud of their barbecue culture and asked me many times: You Chinese don’t know how to eat barbecue, do you?This is for friends who know China better. According to their knowledge, Chinese people eat stir-fried vegetables.If Koreans who don’t understand China and grew up with American-style education, they would think that Chinese people can’t eat anything, and tens of millions of them starve to death every year. Pick a can and lick it. Later, when I went to Japan, I found that they also had the same idea, but the Japanese are shy and reserved, and generally don’t ask directly, for fear of hurting the self-esteem of poor Chinese friends.So I decided to find an opportunity to give them a barbecue lesson to promote the common prosperity of Greater East Asia.One day, a dozen college students and graduate students who study Chinese invited me to a barbecue. There were Japanese, Koreans, Thais and Malays, all Asian brothers.Ten plates of colorful Daiwa black beef were served, and I praised: "It's great beef, look at the pattern, it's like marble, I really don't want to eat it." As soon as I started eating, it involved whether Chinese people eat barbecue or not. The problem.Teacher Kong had already prepared the lesson and brought a reading card in his schoolbag, so he said slowly: "China not only eats barbecue, but also roasts everywhere. Isn't the Beijing roast duck you have learned roasted? There are two roast ducks in Beijing. There are time-honored barbecue brands, one is called Roasted Meat Wan, and the other is called Roasted Meat Season. Not to mention roasted suckling pig and roasted whole lamb in other places. In China, everything from chicken, duck, fish to vegetables and fruits, except human meat, can be roasted.”

The students couldn't help but rejoice.Park In-hyun, who is just learning Chinese, is a left-wing friend who is resolutely anti-American. He said in a low voice: "It's not as good as our South Korea. In our country, human flesh can be roasted, but only white people are roasted, and their outer meat is roasted." Eat it, and make a high-grade white soup from the bones in it." Cui Junsheng's Chinese is more confident, he rolled his tongue, and quickly interjected: "Don't listen to his nonsense, he wants to eat Americans in his dreams, we Koreans, there are no human meat restaurants at all." Zhao Jingshu's basic Chinese, She went to Taiwan to study, and she said slowly: "I heard that China likes to eat barbecue now. Is it influenced by South Korea? You didn't eat it in the past, right?" I said: "Chinese people eat barbecue. The ancestors of barbecue, we have been eating barbecue since the era of Zhoukoudian, Hemudu and Sanxingdui.” The Korean students thought it seemed reasonable, so they said: “Then you must not eat sashimi before? You should eat sashimi Is it influenced by the Korean wave?" I said: "The history of eating sashimi in China is even earlier. Before the invention of fire, they mainly ate raw fish and raw meat. Later, Suiren invented fire by drilling wood, and we ate raw fish. Let's eat together."

The charming Murayama Hidemi said: "The records of the original Xie Xie Hui are generally similar, but in the ancient Xie Xie Hui written in Chinese characters, are there any notes on eating raw food?" I said: "You Wait for me to eat two mouthfuls, and then I will come for the kings." Let's talk about two Chinese characters first.There is an idiom in China called "Wanning Population", which means good articles and good deeds praised by everyone.Why is it called popular?This is a thinly sliced ​​meat and fish fillet.Sunburn means barbecue. This is a knowing word. The bottom is fire and the top is meat.When the "month" in Chinese characters is used as a radical, it means meat.You see, the good things that everyone praises are compared with raw meat slices, sashimi and barbecue. Doesn’t this mean that the ancient Chinese liked to eat them very much?

There is a famous saying of Confucius: "Never tire of fine food, never tire of fine meat", which shows that during the Zhou Dynasty, the Chinese were already able to slice meat very thinly to show the delicacy of life.Now Japan eats sashimi, and this character is still used. In some places, it is written as "鲙", which is hung at the door of restaurants.Isn’t the pronunciation of your Korean sashimi also kuai?In fact, it's kuai.Of course, the variety of yusheng has been enriched, and some other words have been developed, not limited to this word. "Book of Rites" said: "The meat is fishy, ​​the thin ones are sashimi, and the big ones are Xuan." This point is still inherited in Japan. Japanese sashimi cut thicker is called a short book. In the "Book of Rites" Li, called Zha.Japan has preserved the ancient style of China in a relatively complete way.Lu Xun once joked that Confucius had a stomach problem. In fact, Confucius meant that eating should not be too delicate, but should pay attention to etiquette and hygiene. "Book of Rites" says: "For the ceremony of eating, the food should be outside the place where it is roasted, and inside the place where the sauce is." And roast slices on the outside.Isn't this the case in China, Japan and South Korea?One of the main contents of the home economics class that Japanese female college students study is how to "put the plate".This is not the case for Europeans and Americans when they eat. There is a plate of steak or pizza in front of each person, or boiled potatoes and eggs, salt noodles and pepper noodles, etc. are packed in small bottles and placed next to or in the middle of the table. Grab a small bottle and let it go, and basically stay in the stage of primitive society.

Dazhuang Harada, wearing thick glasses, said: "Well, the introduction shows that ancient China also used seven barbecues, but how can it prove that ancient Chinese people liked seven barbecues more than other things?" I took a piece of paper and talked while writing, which is equivalent to class.There is an article "June" in the book, and there is a sentence at the end: "Drink your friends, eat soft-shelled turtles and eat carp." After the triumphant return, everyone ate, drank and had fun together, roasted kings and sashimi.The word "炰" is now written as the "pao" of the cannon, which originally means barbecue, and it is roasted "whole wave", similar to the roasting method of "beggar chicken", which belongs to the most brutal barbecue.Now we call "shoddy production" "processing".This concoction was originally a method of making traditional Chinese medicine, which is to roast the herbs on the fire.This term is also used in what you Koreans call "Korean medicine".Su Dongpo, a great poet in the Northern Song Dynasty, has a poem "He Taohuayuan", which says: "Yun woodcutters get sweet fragrance, and the teeth thank you for making them." Lu You, a great poet in the Southern Song Dynasty, wrote in a poem "Leaving Home to Show His Wife": Medicine cage, fried with cinnamon and ginger.” Do you understand that Chinese people always eat medicine by grilling it.

In the Shang Dynasty, there was a tyrant named King Zhou who invented a torture called "Pao Lao", in which people were roasted as if they were animals.However, he was just torturing people, not eating human flesh.There used to be a tyrant in Central Africa named Bosaka, but he liked to eat roasted human flesh.There is a large special kitchen in his palace, hanging the corpses of many newly killed children and beauties, which are roasted for him every day.He caught the students who were demonstrating and roasted them, and forced the parents of the students to eat them together, which is simply outrageous.He turned national property into personal wealth and deposited it in Western banks, so imperialism supported him.But he was too cruel, and he was overthrown later.

Besides, the Chinese character for "pao" is no longer used to mean "barbecue" because it is mostly used in the meaning of "gun". "The Book of Songs Hu Ye" says: "There are rabbit heads, which can be burnt by guns... There are rabbit heads, which can be burnt by burnt." The guns and burnt here both mean barbecue.When the common people entertain guests, they can’t afford mutton and pork, so it’s fun to roast a rabbit to eat.Today's Beijing residents still like to eat rabbit heads.Wang Zengqi wrote a novel "An Le Ju", which specifically described eating rabbit heads:

The most popular is the rabbit head.A sauced rabbit head costs three or four cents, and at most it costs more than fifty cents. Two taels of wine is enough. ——This was more than a year ago, and now if there are rabbit heads, the price should be increased.These drinkers have a certain method of eating rabbit heads, where to break first, then where to break, and finally break open the brain bone, take out the rabbit brain and eat it.No one was caught and gnawed. They ate very cleanly, not even a trace of meat left.Anleju sells a lot of rabbit heads every year.This small restaurant can hang another signboard: "Rabbit Head Restaurant".

But what Wang Zengqi wrote was the sauced rabbit head, not the roasted rabbit head.In ancient times, there was an idiom to describe the most advanced delicacies, which was called "cooking the dragon and the phoenix" or "cooking the dragon with the phoenix". In fact, the phoenix is ​​replaced by a pheasant, and the dragon is replaced by a white horse.This "cannon" reads "package" today.Now there is a dish in China called "Pot Wrapped Pork" - note that it is not Korean barbecue wrapped in vegetable leaves.In the cooking steps, it is also "burned" first.The taste of the north is strong, and it is easy to overcook this dish. In some places, it is also called "guobaorou". If we want to say whether the ancient Chinese were super fond of fanciing, in addition to Confucius being so particular about it, Mencius is also an example.Gongsun Chou once asked Mencius: "Which is better, roasted or jujube?"The taste of sheep jujube is also good, but compared with the fried rice, it looks dark and thin, and the taste is like chewing wax. Let me cite a few more ancient essays in the "seven" font.During the Han and Wei Dynasties, a kind of parallel prose showing off rhetoric was popular, and the titles were all called "seven".Cao Zhi, the son of Cao Cao, wrote an article "Seven Enlightenments", in which he wanted to "love the flying scales of the Western Sea." .In Meicheng’s "Seven Fats", the guests recommended to the prince the delicacies of "bear scorpion, peony sauce. Boqi, fresh carp." Even barbecue with sashimi, including seasonings.In Huan Lin's "Seven Talks", "The carp is stacked like a gnat's feathers." It is described that the carp slices are cut as thin as the wings of mosquitoes.Fu Yi's "Seven Excitements" wrote: "The fish raised by Cen, the carp bream. The cut is as thin as a hair." It has surpassed what Confucius said, "We never tire of fineness."Fu Xuan's "Qi Mo" describes it even more mysteriously: "Beautiful brocade skin, bruised tires, flying knife floating cuts, every strand of it is unraveled."Move from the wind and disperse, gather like Xia Wei.Flowing into writing, bright as red. "It's like a dream, it's written in a way that makes people want to eat, but also reluctant to eat, and writes sashimi into a fairyland. There are also Liu Shao's "Qi Hua", Zhang Heng's "Seven Differentiation", Zhang Xie's "Seven "Fate", the barbecue and fish in it are quite attractive. When teacher Ge Xiaoyin from Peking University taught us Wei and Jin literature, he said how beautiful these "seven" style articles were, so my classmate Luo Wenhua and I went back to read them. Luo Wenhua's deepest feeling is that there are many words in the article that he doesn't know, which made him the number one expert in our class's "Kangxi Dictionary". What I feel most is that there are many delicacies in the article, and I don't know what year and month to eat to my mouth. The most famous person to eat sashimi is Zhang Han of the Western Jin Dynasty.This brother Zhang, whose name is Ji Ying, is from Suzhou. He is an official in Luoyang, and he always feels that Henan cuisine is not as delicious as Suzhou cuisine. "Book of Jin Zhang Han Biography" wrote that he "seeing the autumn wind, he thought of wild rice, water shield soup, and perch in Wuzhong, and said: "Life is so precious that you have a good ambition, how can you be famous for thousands of miles!" So he ordered to drive And return." He said that in the world, comfort and happiness are the first priority, to travel so far to be a poor official, and to discard water shield soup and perch meat for the sake of false fame, that is simply a fool!So his brother resigned resolutely and went home to enjoy the happiness.This should be the most expensive sashimi in the world.He abandoned fame and wealth for the sake of delicious food, but he just left behind a good reputation through the ages. Isn't this worth pondering for those who often lose their humanity for the sake of fame and wealth?The water shield soup he mentioned reminds me of the article "Lotus Roots and Water Shields" written by modern Suzhou writer Ye Shengtao, which is a famous article in Chinese textbooks.The perch is a famous delicacy.Yuan Zhen of the Tang Dynasty said in "The Twelve Rhymes of the Old Remembrance of Rewarding Friends": "The water shield is tender, and the perch snow flakes are fat." It makes people drool.Xin Qiji, a great poet in the Southern Song Dynasty, even wrote a popular poem "Water Dragon Song Dengjiankang Appreciation Pavilion", in which he wrote: "Don't say that the perch is worth eating, but the westerly wind is exhausted, and the eagle returns to the end?" Zhang Han's allusion is used.According to gourmets in Jiangsu and Zhejiang, it is best to eat sea bass with water shield soup, so that they complement each other and make each other shine. Carp is the most famous among sashimi. "The Book of Songs Hengmen" said: "If he eats fish, he must be the carp of the river? If he takes his wife, he must be the son of the Song Dynasty?" Cai Yong's poem in the Eastern Han Dynasty said: "The guest came from afar and left me with two carps. Call your son to cook carp. , there is a chisu book in it." Tao Hongjing, a genius doctor in the Southern and Northern Dynasties, praised carp as "the best of all fish, and the best food".So far, Yellow River carp is still a famous dish in Shandong and Henan.But since Zhang Han, perch has gradually become famous all over the world, and "Thinking of perch" has become an idiom to miss hometown.Li Bai wrote: "This trip is not for the perch, but for the famous mountains in Shanzhong".Bai Juyi said in "Ouyin": "There are still perch and water shield, and they may plan to go to the east of the Yangtze River in spring." Su Dongpo wrote: "Ji Ying is really a Narcissus, and he is also a virtuous person even if he is a perch."Fan Zhongyan of the Northern Song Dynasty wrote a poem "Fisherman on the River": "People come and go on the river, but they love the beauty of perch. Look at a boat with a leaf, and go in and out of the storm." This poem can be memorized by Chinese primary school students, so the perch in Chinese restaurants is very expensive.Carp was very famous before the Tang Dynasty. In the Tang Dynasty, because it had the same surname as the emperor, it was unlucky, and it was strictly forbidden to catch and eat it for a long time. Therefore, it rarely appeared in the writings of great poets, and it was not written as a delicacy.Li Bai wrote: "The three-foot carp on the Yellow River originally lived in Mengjin, and it was not a dragon when it was counted. It came back with ordinary fish." The sea water is as hot as boiling. The birds on the sea dare not fly, and there are carps among them that are long and fat.” None of them are particularly famous.The best one is Li Shangyin's "A Little Farewell to Banqiao": "Looking back at the Xiaohe River in the high city, the windows of the long pavilion suppress the microwaves. The narcissus wants to go to the carp, and the hibiscus tears a lot overnight." But it is relatively obscure.In the absence of popular and famous articles, carp has gradually become secularized, and the price is not only inferior to perch, but also inferior to mandarin fish and Wuchang fish. Fat fish. Green straw hats, green coir raincoats, no need to go back in the slanting wind and drizzle." Mao Zedong wrote in "Water Tune Getou Swimming" that "only drink Changsha water, and eat Wuchang fish".China is a country with great culture, and the price of commodities is often determined by the cultural content.Interestingly, Emperor Saga of the Heian Dynasty of Japan imitated Zhang Zhihe and wrote a song "Fisherman": "The spring dawn on the cold river is clear, and the flowers on both sides of the river fly to the night to make it brighter. Sea bass, water shield soup, after dinner, singing and walking on the moon ".It can be seen that Japan also prefers bass to carp.When I was in Japan, I saw big fat carp everywhere in the river, crowded into a large piece, like a traffic jam on the streets of Beijing, and no one was catching them. What a pity. Harada asked: "I know that our Japanese seven sashimi is learned from the Tang Dynasty. After the Tang Dynasty, will the Chinese still have seven sashimi?" I said: eat.For example, Guan Hanqing, a great dramatist in the Yuan Dynasty, wrote "Wangjiang Pavilion", which is still being performed in Peking Opera. The full name of "Wangjiangting" is "Wangjiangting Mid-Autumn Festival", which is the story of a beautiful woman cutting sashimi.The heroine Tan Ji'er, in order to save her husband, used a "three-foot brocade scale" on the Wangjiang Pavilion during the Mid-Autumn Festival to deceive Yang Yanei's gold medal.The audience is generally concerned about her fate, or appreciates her singing—Mr. Zhang Junqiu is the most famous singer in Beijing opera, and I have an additional concern. The golden carp in her basket is so delicious. .The third episode of Zaju is called "Xian Cui", and the original lyrics sang: "The fish scales and carapace are fresh and delicious. This fish is not suitable for boiling and frying, but for thin batches and finely chopping." It sounds greedy.Yang Yanei still wanted to fry and eat, but the attendant reminded him: "My lord, if you don't want him to cut it, it will be a village." It can be seen that eating fresh fish raw at that time was still a good taste. "The modern lion's roar, the Chinese seem to have fewer chopsticks, don't they?" the little fat man Mawei suddenly asked. I first corrected his pronunciation: "Time is not a lion's roar. Kuai is not chopsticks." Then I said: The more modern China is, the less people eat chia. You are right.why?One is because Chinese culinary science is becoming more and more developed, forming a broad and profound Chinese food system. There are hundreds of ways to cook and eat vegetables, such as frying, frying, cooking, deep-frying, slipping, boiling, braising, boiling, steaming, and so on. Grilled, stewed, stir-fried, stewed, simmered, boiled, rinsed... and grilled and eaten raw are only a small part of it. It's not that no one eats it, but it accounts for a small proportion of the entire system.The second is that the Chinese believe that barbecue and raw food do not have much technical content and mainly rely on "craftsmanship", while the effectiveness of tools and ingredients is not enough, the cultural comprehensiveness of the product is not strong, and it does not show the level of civilization. Anyone can learn .Being a chef in China is a job that combines both technology and art, and now you have to study and take exams.Of course, in Japan, sashimi chefs also pay attention to their technical level, but compared with Chinese chefs, they are far from the same level.No matter how good the Japanese sashimi masters are, they still can't reach the state of Fu Xuan's saying that "flying knives float and cut, and every thread is cut. The movement is scattered by the wind, and it gathers like a cloud". In "Youyang Miscellaneous Zu" by Duan Chengshi of the Tang Dynasty, Nan Xiaolian, a master who was good at cutting meat, wrote that "he can make carp, the wire is thin and thin, and can be blown up lightly. The knife is ringing and fast, if it is in rhythm. Because of receiving guests To show off tricks, first set up a frame to present it, and suddenly there was a storm. With a loud shock, the carp turned into butterflies and flew away. Nan was frightened, so he folded his knife and vowed not to do it again." This kind of fish fillet that is so light that it can be blown up is called "Changing Butterfly".Du Fu wrote: "The soy sauce is cooked with water shield silk, and the knife sings and flies away" and "The scorpion wields a frost knife left and right, and the golden plate flies high with white snow".Du Fu cries poor all day long, but he is actually a gourmet. He often waits by the river for the fresh fish that has just been caught, and has a big meal on the spot.Huang Tingjian of the Song Dynasty wrote: "On the side of the mortar, you can see the crumbs of gold, but on the plate, there are piles of snow."In high-level Chinese banquets, barbecue and sashimi can be used as one dish, but the grade of the banquet and the level of the chef are mainly displayed through other main dishes.Even a home-cooked dish, such as an ordinary dish of "three delicacies from the ground" or "kung pao chicken", is more technical than barbecue and sashimi. There is also a third reason, barbecue and raw food, cannot completely kill the germs and parasites in the food, and it is easy to make people sick.This was not important in the ancient times when the population density was not too high, but it needs to be paid attention to in the modern times when the population increased greatly and the urban population density increased sharply.Li Shizhen of the Ming Dynasty warned that eating more raw fish is harmful to health.He wrote in his book: "Fish is cooked with raw meat, which is especially harmful to people. It is a lump in the chest, a solid disease, and a strange tumor. You must know it." Today, many Chinese people still dare not eat raw meat and raw fish. This is not courageous. Small, but the accumulation of the achievements of human civilization in the subconscious, the instinct of life told him that this thing is dangerous and should not be eaten casually.Why do we say that the invention of fire is the beginning of human civilization?If you master fire, you will master the sharp weapon to transform everything in the world, and if you have fire, you will be "bright". Pi Shaofu, a student from Thailand, said: "Now Chinese people start to eat barbecue and raw fish again. Isn't it uncivilized?" I said: "If you eat raw fish and don't eat cooked ones, it's going backwards and uncivilized. But Chinese people still eat cooked fish in general, and they are very cooked. Chinese people generally don't eat undercooked fish, which are undercooked. It is a derogatory term in Chinese. Even the vegetables are cooked and eaten by the Chinese. People in the West eat vegetables and chew them so that green water drips from their mouths. The Chinese feel that they are like rabbits and are very pitiful. The Chinese are the first to understand temperature The relationship with civilization, drinking boiled water and eating cooked food, this is the result of a highly developed civilization. Of course, if you are too civilized, you will be prone to corruption. The Chinese spend too much wisdom on the study of delicious food. So now After the Chinese people are tired of frying and frying, they often eat some barbecue, pretending to be bold and casual, and escaping the pressure of busy and tense urban work. This is looking for a feeling of returning to nature, not going back to ancient times. Chinese They mainly eat dishes from the eight major cuisines.” Zhao Jingshu asked: "Chinese people often talk about eight major cuisines, and we also learned eight major cuisines in our texts. So which one is the most delicious?" I said: "The eight major cuisines each have their own characteristics and unique skills, and there are also commonalities in their blending. For example, the fine knife broth of Fujian cuisine, the southern ingredients and northern cooking of Zhejiang cuisine, the equal emphasis on color and oil of Anhui cuisine, and the fragrant, sour, soft and spicy of Hunan cuisine. Among them, the three systems of Shandong cuisine, Sichuan cuisine, and Su cuisine are the most important, because these three regions have the longest civilization and the most abundant products. Shandong cuisine is heroic, Sichuan cuisine is celebrity demeanor, and Su cuisine is beauty. Cantonese cuisine is also good, like a swinger , can be ranked fourth, but Cantonese people like to eat raw food, and eat anything, so Guangdong has the most food-related infectious diseases in the country. There is a famous dish in Guangdong, 'Dragon Tiger Fight', which uses cats and snakes. But No matter how cats and snakes are made, the parasites in their bodies can never be killed. Cats have been able to get along with humans for hundreds of thousands of years, and the ancients did not eat cats. This is very reasonable. Japanese people like to eat sashimi , but you mainly eat sea fish, and it is deep-sea fish, and you pay attention to food safety inspections, so you get less sick. Now deep-sea fish is also beginning to be polluted. American experts warn that you should not eat fish more than twice a week, and the total amount should not More than 340 grams, pregnant women should not exceed 60 grams." Hidemi Murayama said: "It seems that the Chinese know Qiban the best. I see that you Chinese people use a lot of vinegar and soy sauce Shichi in the banquet of Qiban. Does it taste like Hipan?" I told them that one reason is to like the taste, and another reason is to restrain the bacteria inside.Teacher Li Shizhen taught us: "All fresh fish should be thinly sliced ​​and washed to clean the blood, and eaten with garlic, soup, ginger, and vinegar." Chinese people pay attention to the five flavors and use the principles of yin and yang and five elements to maintain the ecology of food in the body. Balance, for example, garlic must be added to eggplant, and ginger must be eaten with crab. This is the reason.In Zhang Heng's "Seven Debates", it is said: "Take a look at its harmony and suit its bitterness. Fangmu ginger and pepper, and Lu Guilan." The method of seasoning is written in detail.In fact, Confucius pointed out more than 2,000 years ago: "If you eat food, you will eat it. If you eat fish, you will lose your meat. You will not eat it. You will not eat it if you are evil in color, and you will not eat it if you smell bad. If you don’t want the sauce, don’t eat it.” The food is not fresh, the color and taste are abnormal, the cooking is not in place, the time is not suitable, and the seasoning is not matched, you can’t eat it.This is not a sour text, fake vinegar, but the earliest "food hygiene law" of mankind. When eating sashimi now, it should be authentic in Japan.In Zhang Xie's "Seven Lives", the fish fillet is described as "the red muscles are loose, the skin is snow-fallen", and the description of the peerless beauty is nothing more than this.I really ate such a beautiful delicacy in Japan. In order to entertain me, the Chinese Department of the University of Tokyo paid a lot of money to reserve the most famous sashimi in Japan. Among them, only one fish was caught in Tokyo Bay that day. Can only make an appointment for the next day.The condiments in Japan are soy sauce and wasabi, with shredded radish seaweed and the like.Japanese sashimi has been written in many ways in history, such as zhiwei, sashimi, sashimi, sashimi, sashimi, and bow. Now it is uniformly written as "sashimi", which is pronounced "sago" in Tokyo dialect.Guo Moruo, who is familiar with Japanese culture, once published an article "Sashimi Theory" in Japan's "Asahi Shimbun" on December 21, 1954.He said that sashimi was originally the soy sauce used by Chaozhou people to eat sashimi. It is called "three seepage" in the local area. It probably uses three condiments of soy sauce, vinegar and ginger juice to eat sashimi.The pronunciation of samsham (three seepage) is said to be sashimi because the Japanese cannot pronounce the nasal sound.Guo Moruo's deduction has some truth.Now the pronunciation of the famous brand "Samsung" in South Korea is a bit close to samsham (three seepage).Chaozhou culture does have an influence on Japanese culture, and the place where China loves to eat raw fish is Chaozhou.From Chaozhou, Xiamen, through Taiwan, Okinawa, to Japan, there is a very clear route of customs and culture changes.My senior sister Lin Qi has been in Japan for many years. She said that when she arrived in Okinawa, it was like returning to her hometown in Fujian. Professor Lin Shaoyang of the University of Tokyo also had a similar view.Changing the name of the condiment into the name of the dish seems to be in line with the law of cultural misreading, so let's talk about it. Cui Junsheng said: "Anyway, what Teacher Kong means is that our Korean and Japanese cultures are the result of learning from China. I understand that, right?" I said: "That's not what I mean. South Korea and Japan have their own unique cultural traditions. There are many places where China, Japan and South Korea influence and integrate with each other, but they also have their own strengths. There is no need to compete for strengths in everything. Take barbecue Let’s talk about sashimi. Although China has existed in ancient times and is rich and colorful, South Korea and Japan have developed their own specialties. Now when it comes to eating barbecue, I like the barbecue in Seoul and Gwangju very much. When talking about eating sashimi , both South Korea and Japan are much more advanced than China. For example, the raw fish I ate at the beach in Incheon and the sea urchin at the beach in Hakodate, Hokkaido are unforgettable in my life. In Japan, I ate the most varieties Fish, this is the first time I know the names of many fish. It is not so important who owns the invention rights of cultural heritage. In Fu Xuan's words, waiting for the meat, in the words of Fu Xuan, is really elegant, as bright as red, if you don't know how to appreciate it, it's like throwing away the world, but it's a pity that I finished eating it while talking. You listened to this precious lesson from me again today, This is called Qin Zhi Lun Yin—let’s have another 5 plates of Daiwa Black Bull.” The students all said: "Mr. Kong's lecture is really popular, and we want to eat more. Five more dishes are too little. Let's have another 10 dishes." Teacher Kong said: "Okay, this is called not getting too much, not getting too tender."
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