Chapter 9 The first part is selected from the posthumous works Section 9 Song and Yuan fashion

After Zhao Kuangyin became emperor, he soon unified southern China, ended the decades-long division of the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms, and established the Song Dynasty regime.The materials obtained from Xishu in the upper reaches of the Yangtze River and Wuyue in the Southern Tang Dynasty in the lower reaches are particularly large, with millions of brocades and silks alone.In order to demonstrate the world and decorate the scene, more than 20,000 officers and soldiers who directly defended him were formed into a special honor guard. The flags, weapons and musical instruments held by certain officers and soldiers, and the clothes they wore were graded, colored and patterned, and different materials were dyed with weaving and embroidery. Dress up and line up in an orderly manner when going out, called "Xiuyi Lubo", and drew a picture, Zhou Bida added detailed descriptions, called "Embroidered Clothes Lubo Picture Notes", this team was later increased to nearly Thirty thousand people.There are nearly 5,000 people in the middle part of the painting preserved by posterity, and many important materials have been preserved for the study of the official uniform system of the Song Dynasty.As usual, the government of the Song Dynasty would present brocade robes to princes and ministers every year, with seven grades of different designs and colors.The queens and princesses of the palace are even more extravagant, and the clothes they wear are often embroidered with real pearls, and the chairs and footrests are also embroidered with real pearls. The story of the Queen Mother of the West going to the Peach Banquet.It is equivalent to moving a music dance to the top of the head, and adding a few bead-inlaid jade rulers on the back to grow wings and drooping shoulders.

Ordinary aristocratic and bureaucratic women, although not as gorgeous as the Tang Dynasty, are more elegant and chic, and the color matching is also very bold. It has broken the Tang Dynasty's habit of using lacquer, gold and silver as symmetrical flower and bird theme paintings with blue, green, red and blue as the main color, pink purple, swarthy purple, and light white. Green, agarwood, brown and other colors are all on the upper body successively.Because white dresses must be worn when sweeping tombs in the Qingming Festival, "filial piety clothes" are popular again, and they are all in plain clothes.In the early years of the Northern Song Dynasty, there were many colorful silks in Sichuan and Jiangnan, and women were good at singing and dancing.Some of them still retain the custom of long-sleeved clothes in the late Tang Dynasty. At the same time, another kind of new clothes, which are more slender with knee-length sleeves and lapel collars, has become popular. It is a double-breasted style with two narrow embroidered collars.The lapel is often used to make a triangle, which is similar to the Hufu in the early Tang Dynasty, and the cuffs are slightly smaller. Looking at it now, it is still slim and pretty, quite beautiful.Another kind of attire is a drape, with a colorful ribbon tied around the belt, each made of various chain knots, and the rest hanging down, either on the front or on one side. This style seems to have originated from the Five Dynasties and continued to prevail in the Southern Song Dynasty.The big change in attire is mainly in the bun, which can also be said to be the focus of people's requirements for beauty at that time. It is roughly inspired by the "cloud bun E'e" mentioned in Cao Zhi's "Luo Shen Fu" in the Three Kingdoms period, and from the Tang Dynasty court female Taoist priests as fairies. With the development of dragon women's clothing, the corolla cloud buns of women in the Five Dynasties have become more and more ingenious, and the Song Dynasty has further developed and changed, because there are a lot of flowers blooming on the head, which is full of surprises.The extremely simple one is in the form of magnolia buds, and the extremely complicated one is as mentioned in "Maple Window Small Letters". In the tomb of Zhao Daweng, there are flying maidens that are dangerous, ingenious and sharp, like birds spreading their wings, so that a kind of overlapping stacking is like a tower of flowers. The one with the purple hijab was roughly modeled after the special peony flower "Chonglouzi" at that time.According to historical records, it was as tall as three feet when it arrived, and it was as large as one foot and two inches with a white-horned comb.Later, the government made a special law to restrict it, and it must not exceed the size.However, the law is of no avail.This hobby was not transferred until another trend became popular.Frontier areas, such as the Dunhuang area, have mostly followed the style of the late Tang Dynasty since the Five Dynasties, using the six-gold hairpin system, and inserting three flower hairpins obliquely on both sides of the broad temples. "The word comes from the Jin Dynasty's "five soldiers wearing" custom, which was popular among the people until modern times.The three silver knives on the heads of Fujian She women are still their direct heirs.Forehead yellow dimples were no longer used by women in the Central Plains of Song Dynasty.Women in Northwest costumes still don't think it's annoying to have their faces plastered all over their faces.

As for the costumes of women who play opera and play music, there are naturally more variations.It can be seen from the paintings that the prostitutes in the palace wear magnolia bud-style buns and wear small-sleeved double-breasted gowns, which may belong to ordinary palace maids, while the people in the drama are mostly mountain flower plugs, full of folk flavor, as seen in Fan Shihu's Lantern Festival Poem, Among the showgirls, the one wearing a fluffy mink hat to cover her eyebrows must look pretty good.If you paint the attire of ancient beauties, you usually make them look like fairies, dragon girls, and heavenly girls in the Tang Dynasty. Although the skirts are flamboyant, they still look a little procrastinated.This also reflects a reality, that is, people in the Song Dynasty value practicality (except hair buns), know how to use economical materials when dressing, which is convenient for movement and more beautiful than the predecessors.Very thin gauze was popular in the Song Dynasty, it is really light as smoke, like the Luoshen dress in the paintings of the Six Dynasties, it is not too heavy.But the female Taoist priests at that time were not willing to make up like this. They painted fairies of Ganoderma lucidum and some dressed as village girls.

At that time, the most senior monks wore purple cassocks, except for a small jade ring on one side of the chest, and a piece of golden brocade underneath, called "Bazhana Ring".It was widely used in the Song and Yuan Dynasties and influenced the great lamas of Tibet. This system is still preserved in the ancient paintings of the Ming and Qing Dynasties. The Khitan, Jurchen, Dangxiang, and Qiang are all nomadic peoples in Northeast and Northwest China, and their living habits are significantly different from those in the Central Plains. Most Xixia women wear Tang-style Hu suits with lapel collars, slanted collars and exquisite embroidery, and the rulers’ costumes are also similar to Tang suits, with belts around their waists, hanging knives, small pouches, small flints and other things, and wearing deformed hats on their heads, just like ordinary warriors. There are Turkic-style shaved heads.

Khitan and Jurchens originally wore small sleeves and round collars, were knee-length, wore long boots, and wore leopard-skin bow bags, which were suitable for shooting and hunting immediately.The Khitan men have their hair loose on the top, while the Jurchens shaved off their top hair and tied the remaining hair into double braids and let it hang down by their ears.Affected by Sinicization, those with status only wear their hair up and wrap it in a "rabbit falcon scarf", such as the Tang style Futou, but they don't pay much attention to style, and only occasionally insert a pearl on the forehead as a decoration.Women wear long gowns with small sleeves, slanted collars and left lapels, with their heels at the heel, and gold brocade hats on their heads, two brocade belts hanging from the back, and two beads on the bottom.The belt also hangs down to fit the clothes, but it does not make a ring.The Khitan and Jurchen regimes of the Liao and Jin Dynasties both had "Southern Officials", and most of them used the official uniform system of the Tang and Song Dynasties.Khitan began to embroider patterns with different landscapes, birds and animals to separate official products, and later the Ming and Qing Dynasties supplemented their clothes, which is the inheritance of the old system.After Jin Zhangzong established Yanjing as his capital, the public service system further adopted the Song style, and the differences became less and less.As for the official system of the Jin Dynasty, the size of silk and satin flowers was used to determine the rank of the official. The smallest one was only allowed to use non-printed sesame seeds, but it was not used in the Ming and Qing Dynasties.However, the use of dragons on clothing was already quite restricted in the Yuan Dynasty.There are three, four, and five claws, which are strictly regulated and recorded in the ordinance.In the Ming Dynasty, names were cleverly established, such as "python", "bullfighting" and so on, and the regulations were re-made, which seemed to be strict and indiscriminate.

At the same time, Khitan or Jurchen men’s clothing has also been adopted by the southerners because it is easy to move. For example, Yue Fei, Han Shizhong and other ZTE four generals who fought against the Jin and regained the lost ground at that time, the generals around them wore casual clothes. What a difference.Common people wear almost the same clothes, although the reasons for their influence are different, either because of political needs, or from the reality of life.It can be seen from this that the integration of national cultures is mostly based on practical requirements, even when ethnic conflicts are very intense. (Generally speaking, it is reasonable to say that this kind of knee-length sleeve clothing is inherent to all ethnic groups in China, because in fact, it has appeared in people of all walks of life since the Shang Dynasty.) It has been shorter, the main reason is that although production has progressed and life is actually poor, most of the fruits of labor have been exploited by the rulers, and farmers and fishermen have begun to have real "men in short coats".

The clothes of the upper class in society are considered conventional, and generally have the following three styles: (1) Official uniforms—long robes with large sleeves are still close to the late Tang Dynasty, but the ones worn on the head are different. They are made of flat-wing gauze caps and have a certain style. (2) Casual clothes - the soft-winged toe, small sleeves and round neck are still in the Tang style, but the feet have been changed from black leather Liuhe boots to more convenient daily life training shoes. (3) Clothes of the old yellow crown - a toga with a collar and large sleeves, with a dark material at the edge, and a tall scarf worn by the old, which is square and neat.According to legend, it was founded by Su Dongpo, and later generations called it "Dongpo scarf".It was also commonly used by the elderly gentry in the Ming Dynasty.Taoist priests with yellow crowns often use jade tooth corners to make small scrolls to frame hollow crowns, and use a rhinoceros jade hairpin to traverse the hair, which will continue to be used until Yuan and Ming Dynasties, and ordinary Taoist priests only use the vertebral bun.

Although male servants must wear curly-winged headdresses according to the system, there are no strict restrictions on ordinary people wearing scarves.Maids and maidservants wear their hairpins or maid horns, or tie them in the shape of silver ingots, which are close to their ears and have been popular until the Yuan Dynasty. As for textiles, except for the gold added to silk fabrics, there are more types of lenos and more complicated patterns.The satin weave seems to be a new invention.The types and colors of brocade are increasing day by day, and the patterns and colors are extremely complex, reaching a historical peak.The main production is still in Xishu.Most of the gauze comes from the south, and the name of grosgrain has the word "Fan" added, which shows that the weaving method is not inherent in the Central Plains.The brocade name "po" is even more obviously from India. "White Vulture" comes from Khitan, and it has also been mentioned in literature.Some people have worn oiled silk smocks when traveling in the rain.

This period also began to have cotton brocade, named "wooden brocade".As for the southwestern and foreign fabrics such as "Douluo brocade" and "Li Dan", they are also textiles with fine patterns, and the fabrics are fine linen. "Point Wax Mantle" is Southwest Batik.Generally printed silk patterns have mostly used sketched zigzag flowers, commonly known as zigzag zigzags, and changed from small clusters of nests in the Tang Dynasty to full of mixed flowers.However, there was a law in the Northern Song Dynasty that strictly prohibited the popularity of printed plates, and they were only allowed to be used exclusively by officers and soldiers with embroidered clothing and stewed books. The ban was not lifted until the Southern Song Dynasty, and it was widely developed.Lin'an City sells a lot of colored silk, some of which refer to printed silk.Stylish and ink painting.There are already 18 kinds of gold added to clothing in the Northern Song Dynasty, which are invalid if prohibited by law.In the Northern Song Dynasty, women in Kaifeng liked to embroider collars with flower crowns, and most of the most exquisite ones sold in Daxiangguo Temple were handmade by female nuns, reflecting the decline of religious superstition. The female nuns in the nunnery can no longer rely solely on the charity of believers to survive. .Compared with the Tang Dynasty, it is quite different.Although the rulers spent tens of thousands of money and manpower to build Jingling Palace, Yuqing Zhaoying Palace, Jiangxiao Palace, etc., advocating superstition, ordinary people became more and more practical, and natural color thread embroidery was popular for a while, as seen in the notes of poet Lu You and others.

In addition to brocade, high-grade silk fabrics also include "deer tire", "tight silk", "velvet back" and "through back". Sichuan is the main producing area.The content of these materials is not clear enough. "Deer Fetus" or a multi-coloured printed silk. "Velvet back" may refer to a kind of satin and velvet yarn, which is similar to later flower velvet. "Through the back" may be Kesi.These speculations have yet to be confirmed by new discoveries.The popularity of gold-twisted brocade increased the beauty of the brocade, and the brocade with lantern patterns influenced it for a long time. "Eight halo brocade" is rich and colorful and has reached the peak of brocade art.A kind of engraved silk that is dug and woven with a small shuttle, with symmetrical patterns of flowers and birds all over the ground, and then imitating famous paintings of flowers and birds, and designing cloth colors, becoming a new variety of ornamental art.In the transmission of technology, weavers of the Hui nationality in Northwest China contributed more.There are also "Yellow Grass Heart Cloth", "Jimming Cloth", "Zi" and "Red Banana Cloth" in the south, which are especially suitable for use in summer.Due to the further improvement of papermaking, combat armor made of leather paper and paper tents became popular for a while.

During the Yuan Dynasty, the Mongols ruled China militarily for about a century.The government set up many dyeing and weaving departments throughout China to control silk and wool fabrics, and supervised production with a strict official craftsman system.The brocade "Nashiya" made of twisted gold or gold thread and the "Green Tieke" made of wool were two particularly representative products at that time. There were nine different names of silk printing and dyeing, and there was over-dyeing For three or four times, wool felts are used more, and there are more than 60 items left in "Dayuan Felt Works".For the convenience of riding and shooting, mandarin jackets with short sleeves reaching the elbows became popular. Although the official uniforms of Southerners in the Yuan Dynasty still mostly used the Tang-style Futou and round collars, the common clothes were more accustomed to the closed collar and open chest style.The Mongols, on the other hand, braid the top hair in a small lock hanging down the forehead, or the rest of the hair like a small peach into two big rings, hanging by the ears, even emperors are no exception.Aristocratic women must wear an aunt's crown (picture 1), which is more than one foot tall and rises forward, as in picture 1 The straight-necked goose head is made of blue-red velvet brocade and decorated with pearls and jade, representing nobility.The collar is edged with gold brocade with stone arrows, and the commoner servants and servants are knotted in a multi-vertical bun, and the collar is closed with a small sleeve on the left lapel, which is slightly bloated than Jurchen.Aristocrats wear red, green and green, and civilians without official positions are only allowed to wear brown silk, but civilians are the majority after all, so there are twenty-four kinds of brown items.From the Yuan Dynasty to the first year of the Yuan Dynasty, the cotton tax was officially levied. It can be seen that a large amount of grass cotton was planted in the Jiangnan area, and cotton cloth was increasingly sold in the country. It was also around this period. The four-lens rattan hat was commonly used by men in the Yuan Dynasty, but in the Ming Dynasty only some craftsmen still used it.Another kind of waist-bending helmet was made of ermine skin by the emperors of the Yuan Dynasty, and the forehead or top was often inlaid with extremely valuable jewels.The green and red felt hats of the guards in the Ming Dynasty still adopted this style, which is exactly the same as the "Qingsun Banquet" tunic that the princes of the Yuan Dynasty valued, and it is almost the same as the uniforms of the Ming and Qing Dynasties. In historical dynasties, it has almost become a common practice.