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Chapter 2 Cai Lan talks about eating-2

Cai Lan talks about eating 蔡澜 16754Words 2018-03-18
Li Juming has known him for many years since he worked in New Art City. Recently he mentioned me in his book "Diet Changes". Mrs. Cha bought it as a gift. See the cover. Li Juming has changed from a thin young man to a round, fat middle-aged man with a happy face. He said that I was born in the month of "Shen" in "Wu".Born to eat life.And people who belong to the earth need fire, so I eat any hot food, and I have never seen me yelling that I have a sore throat. Hahahaha, not bad at all.He said that people born in the "Wu soil" in autumn are happy without fire, so all things they like are fire.

1. The more you smoke, the better.2. The more you drink, the better your luck.3. Eat spicy food, the more spicy it is, the more delicious it will be.No matter what disadvantages you list in smoking, alcohol and spicy food, for Cai Lan, it is ineffective.Strangely, those who want to be popular don’t have lung cancer if they smoke. Everyone’s body structure is different, Cai Lan needs to smoke to be healthy. Similarly, wine is also fire, but drinking beer can turn cold and hot, giving birth to a cold.Chili is also a food that people with autumn cold physique can enjoy, and it is related to spicy food.

Li Juming also said that my horoscope is the most taboo of "gold".Gold is cold, so you can't eat pig lungs, because pig lungs are the best of "gold". I can rest assured about this, I can eat anything, but I don't like pig lung since I was a child.He also said that I should not eat too much chicken, and I am not interested in chicken.As for not eating monkeys, I am most opposed to people eating wild game, of course I will not touch them. I can now completely blame fate for what other people consider to be shortcomings.I used to evade, saying that my father loves smoking and my mother loves drinking, both of which are genetic to me.And I don't know what's good about my grandfather, so it's probably hereditary.

A good life is also related to my name.Chua Lam Chua Lam, doesn't that sound like "vegetable basket"? Enter: I have been very curious since I was a child, and I also wanted to know more about food. After accumulating experience and a little knowledge, I wrote some articles and did diet programs, and people called me a gourmet. I don't like the word "home" very much.I am eager to learn, but I can only use eight words to describe all knowledge, that is: one bottle is not full, and half of the bottle is dangling.Doing anything is half-knowledgeable, and absolutely cannot be called a family.

As an English writer, I don't make any concessions.Literally write every day, what is not a writing person? But being called a "writer".Heart hairy. Thanks to the guidance of a famous teacher, I also learned to write brush calligraphy and carve seals, and I can't be crowned with the false names of calligraphers and seal carvers.English lovers or lovers do not only refer to pornography, but also suitable for calligraphy lovers, seal cutting lovers, how wonderful! Doing business also feels good.Fortunately, those who have never been called businessmen, who are successful, are called "business tycoons" at most, which is disgusting.I'd rather be called a "businessman."

When people call me "Gourmet", I feel harsh. Cantonese people use concise words, such as beautiful, beautiful, good-looking, etc., and they all call them "Liang". Gourmet, in Cantonese, one "beautiful" is missing.Words, become gourmets, I also think it is too much. If gourmets are used to describe people who like to eat, then everyone is a gourmet except for those who have no interest in eating.Eat it every day, eat it for a whole life, what is it if you don’t get home? Most people just eat it silently, not like me.There are many people who describe the things they like to eat more vividly than me, and their vocabulary is richer than mine.I write and write, only delicious, delicious and other primitive words.

A child asked me: "How can I become a gourmet?" As long as you carefully pay attention to the food you have eaten, and ask the hawkers in the vegetable market, you will definitely learn to eat.If you want to treat it as a "home" wholeheartedly, it will be useless if you don't enjoy the process.Currently writing is also an amateur. My business card only has a name, but no title. If I insist on pressing one, I will call myself a "greedy person".People who are greedy for knowledge. Back in Hong Kong, I saw a plate of cured meat in the restaurant at noon, including sausages, carcass, bacon and cured duck legs, with green cabbage underneath.

"Long time no see, every year!" I said to the plate of cured meat, as if seeing an old friend.After the Mid-Autumn Festival, cured meat appeared. This is the benefit of living in Hong Kong, and there is no way to enjoy it in Nanyang. Although people say that eating too much cured meat will cause cancer, I don't care. A big plate of food is almost killed by me alone. My old friend Xu Shenghe saw it, and went across the sea to "Yong Kee" in the afternoon, and bought some to go home. We played a few small rounds of mahjong and had cured meat for dinner. The preserved meat at "Yung Kee" is indeed of a high standard. It is completely different from the one at noon. The sausage is very fragrant, and it is made of foie gras.The skin of that cured duck leg is very soft, unlike the old and hard ones bought elsewhere.

"Actually, it has to be processed." Brother Xu Shenghe said, "Steaming alone is not enough. The duck is so delicious when it is steamed after it is cooked. " Of course, there are four domestic helpers in his family, all of them are masters, and none of them are Filipino. When the season comes, I have to eat a lot every year.When I go to Kowloon City to drink tea in the morning, I first have a cup of preserved meat rice. There is steaming hot white rice in the rice cup with incomplete edges. The rice grains are very hard. A sausage, a sausage, half a piece of bacon, the fat part of the bacon should account for two-thirds, otherwise it will not taste good.

At noon, there is another pot. The rice at the bottom of the clay pot is burnt. After eating the cured meat and rice, pour the soup on it and cook it again. It is better than Buddha jumping over the wall. Another time, I came back from a trip to other places. I haven’t tasted this taste for a long time. I ran to the back street of Causeway Bay in the middle of the night and saw the big vat of cured meat. The rice was browned by the cured meat sauce. I swallowed three bowls in a row, and I was so grateful that I burst into tears while eating. There are more and more Italian restaurants on the market.Is it really that delicious? Is it that easy to do business?

How many Chinese chefs can learn the essence of Italian cuisine? Cooking a few dishes of spaghetti, frying and grilling a few slices of lamb chops or steaks can be called Italian cuisine? The biggest worry is that you will have a bad impression of Italian food after eating a meal that is difficult to eat and expensive. My first exposure to poor French foie gras tasted like a dead body; I almost gagged and haven't touched it for twenty years.In the end, I went to a small town in France to film and lived for three months before I tried the real thing for the first time.Ah, that smells better than any food.What kind of tuna belly, you have to go away, you see how big my loss is! Like learning calligraphy and painting, if you don't meet a famous teacher, you will always have to walk a lot of wrong roads.Sometimes you can't go back after learning badly. When we eat Italian food, we should start with authentic ones. Going to Rome, Emerald, and Lake Gomo in Milan is of course the best choice, but you have to work hard in advance and ask which one is the best, otherwise it will be a waste of time to go to tourist restaurants. If you don’t have a chance to go, get materials locally.Today's most authentic Italian restaurant is at No. 8 Hoi Ping Road, Causeway Bay, in Sunning Plaza. The owner Alex is Italian, and his family has a famous small restaurant in Rome. I fell in love with my wife from Hong Kong and opened a restaurant here. A plate of ordinary seafood spaghetti, why does it taste so good? It's very simple, Alex has eaten it for a lifetime, and knows how to make it soft and hard.The sea prawns with blackened heads turned out to be flown from Rome twice a week, and the taste was completely different from the swimming prawns bought in Hong Kong. Of course, the price of a meal in this family is not cheap, but it is not outrageous.Please think about it and treat it as a tuition fee.It's not expensive anymore.Anyway, it's better than you going full circle. Some so-called Italian restaurants do not even serve the most basic spirits.If I go to this kind of place a hundred times, I still won’t be able to taste Italian food. For Western food, we are more familiar with French and Italian food, and gradually learn Spanish food. Macau people know a lot about Portuguese food.What about England? Nothing, except fish and chips. As for German food, our misunderstanding is also deep, thinking that there are only sausages and salted pork knuckles. I tried their roast suckling pig, the skin is also well burnt, stuffed with fruits such as peaches and pears, it is very special, cut into portions and served on a plate. When it comes to roast suckling pig, it seems that German food and Chinese food are somewhat related. In fact, roast goose is also close. It is also a famous German dish, with Martin in its English name. Usually this is a traditional dish eaten on St. Martin's Day, November 11, but nowadays it is not limited, and various famous restaurants have different Martin goose.Generally, apples and walnuts are stuffed into the body of the goose before being put into the oven. The roasted skin is very crispy, and the sweet fruit juice and nut flavor are mixed with the meat. It is also another way to eat the goose. There is a chance another day. Be sure to invite Brother Kam Kin Shing from "Yung Kee" to Germany to try. Another ingredient that is very close to China is carp.It is rare to see carp in European and American recipes, and it is usually thrown back into the lake when it comes up, and it is rarely touched, and it will not be burned at all. The Germans are different. They boil the carp and serve it with sauce. People in each province have different sauces. The most common one is tomato sauce. However, I don’t seem to eat carp viscera very much. The carp dishes I have tried all have empty stomachs.Chinese people eat carp, especially Chaozhou people, they pay attention to eating its sperm, followed by its eggs. Commonly known as carp dish, the word of the British is made in Germany, and so on, the word can be associated with English, and the meaning of carp can be understood. It is very boring to eat one dish after another at noon. To put it simply, let them make a clear soup with green onions, beans, carrots, potatoes, and pork or beef.This dish with soup and staple food is called by the Germans.We don't have to be so stuffy with sausages and knuckles anymore. When Lu Yu wrote "The Classic of Tea", people often heard people say that he still kept the tradition described in the book, but the Chinese themselves have completely forgotten it. It is really a pity. I have another point of view: the details are too complicated to be accepted by ordinary people. Drinking tea is a part of daily life and should be casual.As soon as you are casual, the taste of Zen is born, which is the real tea ceremony.I am limited to the Chaozhou style of making tea, no matter how complicated it is, I will never do it. Japan has a tea ceremony, which was originally a Chinese thing, but if they snatch it away, we must develop our own tea ceremony.Therefore, Taiwan, which had been ruled by Japan for 60 years, felt unwilling to do so, and created the so-called Taiwanese Kung Fu Tea. When they drink tea, they first pour it into a container called a "fair cup", and then pour it into small cups respectively.Of course you don’t drink the first cup. After pouring it out, the host forces you to take the cup and smell it. Everyone has to put their noses into the cup and inhale vigorously. What a dirty behavior! The tea needs to be drunk hot, poured into a fair cup and then divided, half of it has been poured out, what the hell is this? Well, I used something like a brush to froth the tea. How can we compare with the Japanese without those props? The Taiwanese just made tea spoons, tea rules, tea clips, tea craftsmen, tea lotus, waste water tanks, etc. props out.It was terribly artificial and cheesy.I hate it more and more.Unexpectedly, mainlanders also eat this kind of tea, imitating it everywhere, and even saying that it is the tea ceremony that they created, which makes people sigh and shake their heads.Taiwan's tea is more expensive than gold, and with Dongding, Cuiyu, Alishan Jinxuan, Shanlinxi Gaoshan tea and other famous teas, the Fujian tea of ​​the ancestors is regarded as inferior. I have also drank these expensive teas one by one. Of course they were invited, so I wouldn't be so stupid as to buy them.There is only one conclusion: it is blindly seeking fragrance, and there is absolutely no physical sensation at all.The aroma of new tea, the color of old tea, and the taste of intermediate tea are all mixed together like every stage of life. This is tea. Basically, us drinkers, who just like to eat small dishes, definitely don't like stuff that fills our stomachs.Once a person is full, it is difficult to get drunk after drinking, but if you are not drunk, what is the purpose of drinking? Therefore, I am not very interested in steamed stuffed buns, especially those with very little filling and thick skin. I only dig out the vegetables and meat inside to eat, and the skin is left, which seems like a waste of things. Tianjin's Goubuli steamed stuffed buns are eaten in old restaurants in Tianjin, and they are nothing special.The buns of ordinary northern shops are also what the British say: there is nothing worth writing home to report. When steamed buns come to the south, the skin becomes thinner. I don’t know how to make the barbecued pork buns eaten in the Pearl River Delta. They are like a layer of air, but I still eat them with relish. But the general char siew buns don't have any meaty taste, they are blindly sweet, like eating desserts more than steamed buns, which is not my favorite either. When I came to Hong Kong for the first time decades ago, Mr. Gu Wenzong took me to drink tea on the top floor of the "Nathan Hotel".The girl was carrying a large plate of things and shouted loudly: "Big bag, big bag!" I want a cage.Wow, that's amazing, there is only one bun in a cage, a veritable big bun.Take a bite, the stuffing inside is there.Chicken wings, char siu, half an egg and pork, etc. Strangely, it is not dry, and there is a lot of soup, which tastes really good.Suddenly, I was stuck in my throat by a chicken bone, and I don't know why, the chicken wings are always chopped so that the sharp bones protrude, and I accidentally eat something wrong.I can't forget the taste of this big bag, and I haven't found a restaurant that can make it. At noon, Mr. Yang Zhiqing invited me to the "Le Gonglou" of the Miramar Hotel. I ate northern dim sum and ordered a large plate of Shandong buns. Each one was as big as a shoe. I definitely did not lie to you. The fungus and fungus are fried loose and swollen. It looks scary, but it is easy to import and can be delivered with wine. Mr. Yang and I killed a bottle of Moutai at once, and each quickly swallowed five large bags, only to be drunk and full . The Mid-Autumn Festival has passed, and it is time to conclude the situation of moon cakes. Starting from the reduction of ordinary moon cakes to miniature ones, moon biscuits have changed and gone astray.The price ranges from tens of dollars to nine thousand nine hundred and ninety-nine, but it no longer tastes like eating it when I was a child. What is $? Back then, we didn't have to bring tea, and we didn't feel too tired.The skin is as thin as paper, and the real material is real.I have been looking for this lost taste, and I finally succeeded. I also made mooncakes, but they were just gifts for friends.Some friends lost their addresses and couldn't deliver them to your door. Please forgive me. I will make up for it next year.Nanjing's "Guanshengyuan" used old-fashioned fillings to impact the domestic mooncake industry and make it sluggish.Since this year, the country has formulated a set of "international" system to regulate the lotus paste content of lotus paste at least 60%.The filling of meat mooncakes should have no less than 5% meat.For fruit mooncakes, no less than 25 percent, and for nuts, no less than 20 percent. From this regulation, we know that although the so-called lotus paste products are fresh, the content has been replaced by winter melon. It is said that many famous brand moon cakes only use 10 percent lotus paste.It is already sold so expensive, why save these? There is really no conscience at all. The profit of moon cakes is very high.The money is spent on publicity, and the packaging is not a large amount.In this commercial society, only people who sell advertisements will buy them.Each business has its own way, and I would not go this way myself. I don’t take it seriously when I see other people using hawthorn, bird’s nest, and shark’s fin to make mooncakes, but why do they care so much? It’s unconventional, and it won’t last long. I put a lot of thought into the packaging and used a wooden box.But after reading a report, I feel guilty.Last year, the output of mooncakes in Shanghai exceeded 10,000 tons. If each paper packaging box is calculated at 300 to 400 grams, the paper consumed is equivalent to cutting down 400 to 600 large trees. I have full confidence in the ingredients, hand quality, and taste, but when the mooncakes are launched next year, what will be used for packaging? It is a matter of conscience. A rarely eaten Fujian snack is called finger noodles. Hand-grasped noodles, also known as bean-dried noodles, are a famous summer dish in Zhangzhou, Fujian.In fact, it is like more cakes than gardens.Batch Jingsha 6 gardens cooked/shade rice, Cangxin 10 shape, Zhuangji said; Spread it on a plate, spread it with sand tea, sweet sauce or chili sauce, and then add the filling.The so-called stuffing has no meat at all. It is tofu cut into long strips, fried and taken out, wrapped in dough and eaten like that.This is the way of eating at home. If you are on the street, you take the skin in one hand and use a small wooden stick to dip the sauce in the other.Put dried tofu and grab it with both hands, so it is called hand-caught noodles, and it is a pancake for poor people. The poorer eat horse ears.Grind glutinous rice and late rice into a slurry, put it in a cloth bag, press it with a big stone, make it dry, steam it into a ball, add sugar and mix it, knead it into an oblong shape, flatten it in the middle, grab the two ends and twist it in opposite directions, Twist into a horse's ear.Then take it to fry, and it will be called horse ear. I used to have an assistant named Lin Huihuang, who was a native of Fujian. His sister loved to paint. When he put it on the table, he saw meatballs mixed with mushrooms. Alas, Hong Kong people don’t know how to eat Taiwanese food, and they have been deceived ever since. The real Hsinchu tribute balls are made of pure pork and nothing else.Only those who can make the ordinary meat pulp into elastic and full-flavored ones can pay tribute. Hsinchu is far from Taipei. In recent years, there are highways. It takes about 40 minutes by car. The most famous local products are rice noodles and gongwan. The former is as thin as hair and white as snow. Both kinds of food can be eaten at the Chenghuangmiaokou food stalls in the center of Hsinchu City.Agui, the carpenter who took me there for the first time, was a rough man. He said: "Hsinchu tribute balls will jump on the table if they fall on the ground." Of course I don't believe it. This gentleman grabbed a grain and threw it to the ground vigorously. Sure enough, he jumped higher than the table, but if he accidentally dropped it while eating, it is absolutely impossible to jump back. The tribute ball is about twice the size of the beef we often eat, like a plum.Cut a knife in the middle before ripening to warm the heart, and it is easy to chew. The mouth feels very crisp and elastic, and then the taste comes out, very sweet.Of course there is a bit of MSG, if you don’t have MSG in Taiwanese snacks, it’s like killing your mother. The higher the food, the less, and the lower the quality, the more. A small, thin earthenware bowl holds two balls, soup, some flowers sprinkled on top, that's all.In order to hide their ugliness, the inferior hawkers try their best to add things to the meatballs. Mushroom rice balls are an example, and they are recognized as authentic outside of Taiwan. Hsinchu Gongwan also has many stores in Miaokou. Which one is the best? It’s easy to find, and the one with the most people queuing up can’t be wrong. If you don’t want to go all the way to Hsinchu, you can find a stall in the vegetable market in Shilin District, Taipei.Forgive me for not writing the name and address of the store, the production volume is small, and the quality will be affected when the business is good. The two parents-in-law of the hawker are smiling, and they are full of satisfaction that they do not want to open a chain store. I am sorry for them if I don’t introduce them. As famous as Taiwan's Hsinchu Gongwan, it is Hsinchu Rice Noodles. Add a little rice noodles to a bowl of tribute ball soup to make tribute ball rice noodles, and you can have both.Why can Hsinchu rice noodles be so thin? I have always wondered, Bu Guyi/: ""\/,). "" Only then have I fulfilled my long-cherished wish. My family always eats Hsinchu rice noodles once or twice a week. It is easy to cook. Although it is not as convenient as instant noodles, it can be served after rolling it twice.The amazing thing is that even if it is overcooked, it will not become mushy or shattered like §@(③. Soak the rice noodles in cold water and it can be used for frying.Taiwanese daughter-in-laws who don’t know how to fry rice noodles are not qualified. My skills are no worse than theirs, because I often practice. The basic technique is to be diligent and stir-fry frequently so that it does not stick to the bottom. The current soup of Prince Edward must be just right. It all depends on experience. The rice noodles are elastic enough. Those who are good at it can use a spatula, and those who are not confident can use long bamboo chopsticks and turn them over and over again.Leave a space in the middle, add some oil, fry the shredded pork, half-cooked, and then mix it with rice noodles, so that the gravy will enter the rice noodles, and frying separately will not have this effect. Vegetable ingredients are only allowed to use bean sprouts and cabbage. The simpler the better, the rice noodle flavor is the best. For soy sauce, you can use Wanzi brand. I like soy sauce paste. Liangluo brand is better. It is a little sweet, so you don’t need to add MSG. Every time I come back from Taiwan, I always have a large suitcase of rice noodles.It's been a long time, and I can only buy it from Taiwan Minsheng Company.Taiwan has a well-developed electronics industry, and computers are sold everywhere, but the department store business is very clumsy. In the past, there were government subsidies, and many opened in Hong Kong and Kowloon. Today, Minsheng companies have closed down one after another, and there is only one in Central. Most of the products sold are candies and the like, and rice noodles are rare, sometimes seen, and the price is not cheap. Having lunch at Donghai Restaurant, seeing the rice noodles as thin as silk, I decided it was a Hsinchu product. I asked the manager and found out that it was Fuzhou Danfeng brand in mainland China, which was cheap and could be substituted. Amber fish and hamachi read a bit alike? It’s the same as how much salmon roe is. It’s easy to remember, and it’s the first Japanese you learn when you eat yusheng. Hamachi becomes tuna when it grows up, but some species do not grow big, each three to four feet, with a lot of fat in the belly, which is very delicious. Like other fish in Japan, they are all caught by the most advanced trawling technology. Most of what the Japanese eat today is imported from foreign countries.Occasionally, we can also buy a so-called "missing fish" real! Japanese tuna, which tastes ten times better than those from India or Spain.The elders taught me that when describing something, you can’t describe it with words.” But for the real Yusheng, I can only say that words cannot describe it, and you have to eat it before you can compare it. Today, a large number of hamachis are sold in the Kuromon Market in Osaka. It turns out that these fish were successfully farmed in Hikita Town, Kagawa Prefecture, Japan. On the five-kilometer Hikita-cho beach, 15,000 were raised.Throw in the miscellaneous grains kneaded into balls, Hundreds of fish jumped out of the sea to grab it, which was spectacular.In addition to being wholesaled to various places, it has also developed into a tourist spot. It has been accepting tour groups since August, allowing guests to catch a big fish by themselves, and then cut it into sashimi for you. How delicious the yellow-footed calamari was in the past, and it is exactly the same in today's vegetable market, but it is already farmed.After buying it home and steaming it, there is a smell of mud, neither fragrant nor sweet. It is annoying to eat, and the farmed hamachi is also the same fate. I remember eating yellow-footed carp in Xiaolangong in Hanoi, and I had to go away from any grouper fish or sumi.Young people have never eaten real yellow-footed carp, so they don't know its taste.When I explained the taste of eating fish to an old woman on the Indian hills, she replied that she had never tried it in her life, what a pity? I think young people today can answer me with the same words. I rushed back to Hong Kong late last night, and went to Kowloon City early this morning to eat wonton noodles.The pasta in the north is mainly sticky, soft and slippery. Only the whole egg noodles in Guangdong have a unique way, which is as young as silk and as smooth as fat. Cool and strong to win. My sister, sister-in-law, younger brother, sister-in-law and sister-in-law's son-in-law arrived in Hong Kong today, and we will go to the hometown of Chaozhou.Before leaving, you have to save the manuscript, and you can rely on your imagination for other things, but the weekly food review must be based on no basis, and you have to eat before you can write the information. I heard that "Wong Chi Kee", a long-established store in Macau, opened a store in Hong Kong, so I went to Causeway Bay to try it immediately. It really did not disappoint me. It is really delicious and worth recommending. When my family arrived, the first thing I asked was if I had eaten it? What would I like to eat? What my younger brother wanted most was wanton noodles. Take them to the "Tang Dynasty" near the hotel where they are staying. In addition to desserts, there are porridge and noodles, and three different types of lo mein: Ya wonton, beef brisket and fried sauce. After the meal, I was taken to Hong Kong by my sister-in-law's son-in-law, who is from Hong Kong.We made an appointment to go to "Yong Li Garden" in the evening. When you come here, how can you not eat their famous dan dan noodles? Although the noodles are made in the north, they are soaked in a thick soup base, slightly spicy, and very exciting. Everyone ate another big bowl.This is my -2~@ fourth pasta meal. The new dish of "Yong Liyuan" is served on the table. The base is made of cucumber, and there is a pile of green things on top. It turns out that the bones of the chicken feet are broken, and the ribs that have been peeled off are marinated with Japanese wasabi. But I still love their traditional dish of white meat with garlic, drizzled in spicy sauce.The pig ears are also very special, the slices are big and thin, and the handwork is first-class. The "Old Hong Kong" on the opposite side gave me a dish of salt and candle chicken to try. I couldn't order it from other stores, but here I can be unrestrained. The owner of "Yongli Garden" didn't mind either, and asked with a smile, "Where does a chicken come from?" I wrote the manuscript in the middle of the night, and halfway through the writing, it was already dawn, and I was hungry, so I went to the kitchen to make doll noodles.Eat the fifth meal, never tire of eating. Most people think that cooking curry is difficult. The easiest way is to go to a Japanese-funded department store to buy a pack of ready-made, cut open the tin bag, add ingredients, roll it and eat it. Thai grocery stores also sell ready-to-eat curries, even the meat and vegetables are prepared for you, and you just pop it in the microwave. The joy of cooking lies in doing it yourself.Let me teach you how to cook curry Curry powder or sauce can also be prepared by yourself, but it is quite complicated. I advise you to skip this process.The curry powder is bought from the store, Indian, Indonesian, Malaysian, optional. Start by chopping an onion.Onion is the most important material for cooking curry and is indispensable. Put oil in the pan, wait for the oil to smoke, then add chopped onion to fry until it turns yellow, then add curry powder. How much do you want? The curry can be thick or thin, depending on your own taste. Usually, the chopped onion is thickly wrapped in curry powder, which is the most appropriate. The fire does not need to be too fierce. At this time, put the meat or fish, or vegetables you want to cook, and fry them with a spatula, let the curry and ingredients mix together, and prepare a large bowl of coconut milk, if you can’t buy coconut milk, use milk instead also.When it is almost sticking to the bottom of the pot, add coconut milk or milk, once the material is wet, it can be fried again.Fry until half cooked. Put the ingredients in the pot into a pot, add a lot of coconut milk or milk and boil until it is fully cooked. How do you know if it is cooked? Use chopsticks to insert it! Once you insert it, you can insert it, which means it is fully cooked. Now you can add your favorite vegetables, usually potatoes, but they are too ordinary and not easy to cook.It is better to use lady fingers.There are small seeds in the lady's finger. Cook until the seeds are full of curry juice. Once you bite into it, the sound will burst in your mouth. It is the best. The secret is that the ingredients must be mixed with the curry to make it tasty. Once the two things are separated, it is absolutely impossible to cook a good curry. Give it a try, fail three times, and you will learn. There are too many things I want to do, and there is no way... to complete them, but the experience I get in the process of research and learning, and the experts I know are very valuable and interesting. Recently, I have a new idea to open a noodle shop. What's not to do? It's one of my favorite things to eat.I would have said it, but I have graduated from young impulse, and doing anything is the so-called "foresight". First of all, in the era when restaurants are closed, why open restaurants without fear of death? There is a principle of restaurant management, that is to sell the most expensive or the cheapest.In the middle, you must die.Noodle shops are the cheapest, in line with the principle. There is a very good shop in Hokkaido, called "Shijitai", which means clock tower in Chinese.I asked the owner of this shop why he chose to be a noodle shop. "It has been 12 or 13 years since the Japanese economy collapsed. But people have to eat to survive! My father also came out to do small business after the defeat of the war. His teaching is: if the economy is poor, sell noodles!" The boss answered. Furthermore, people are easy to hire, salaries are cheap, shop rents are not expensive, and good locations are easy to find, which is also a good condition for opening a restaurant, but it needs unique features to compete with others. I have done it before, and I know who to ask for decoration to be reliable.Getting a restaurant license is also a difficult task, so don't take it too lightly.And what about the liquor license? Even more troublesome. Fire escapes, exhaust, etc. are all problems, but they can all be overcome one by one. If you don’t even clean the bathroom, then you don’t want to open any restaurant. Last but not least is the quality of the food, which is neglected by shopkeepers today. What we forget, is the basics of authenticity.The lesson I have learned is to work hard and never cut corners. In a small town in Malaysia, an old man selling Bak Kut Teh said: What? Add soup? I cook a pot of soup with a pot of meat.If I add it to you at will, then it must not be soup, it must be monosodium glutamate, " I have long hated eating potato chips.You see, it has been confirmed by the medical profession that it contains a large amount of carcinogenic acrylamide, do you still dare to eat it? What kind of stuff is this? You're not a doctor and don't have to research that much.In short, it is an odorless crystal, and long-term exposure to large quantities will cause problems. What is a large amount? The United Nations World Health Organization recommends that adults can consume up to one microgram of acrylamide per day.A kilogram of potato chips contains 1,200 micrograms. Experts pointed out that if the human body takes too much, it will cause coughing, runny nose, dizziness and gradually poor memory at the beginning, and hallucinations will appear in severe cases, followed by numbness in hands and feet and tingling in fingers, and finally cause animal gene mutations and form tumors. Look at you, if you eat a little bit of lard, you will be scared to death. Now you eat potato chips every day, isn’t it even worse? However, the reason why I don't eat French fries is not because I am afraid of death, but because I think it is too monotonous and tastes uncultured. Lard fried rice is much more delicious.After all, animal oil is more fragrant than vegetable oil. Another reason is nostalgia.When I was a child, the living conditions of ordinary families were not enough. It was a happy thing to have this bowl of delicious rice to eat.Although we have become spiritual upstarts in real estate, occasionally eating lard for rice can make us re-evaluate our own value, which is of great significance.Kids today don't know what lard is, they just remember French fries.I don't like to eat it myself, but I will encourage them to eat it.If you eat such a favorite food once or twice once in a while, you won't die.Overdose no... kind of stuff is good. We take care of our bodies, but most importantly we take care of our heads.Afraid of this and that, Mr. Brain is sick.What about physical health? You eat your potato chips, I eat my lard and rice, neither interferes, how nice! Don’t come and tell me not to eat this or that, I’m an old man, I’ve heard too much, it’s really annoying ! Delicacies from mountains and seas sound good, but the taste is nothing.Moreover, there are only a few cooking methods, because the ingredients are precious, and the opportunity to practice is not as good as the most common chicken, cow, sheep and pig. If you want to classify them more carefully, there are the so-called upper, middle and lower three kinds of eight treasures. The top eight treasures are raccoon lips, hump humps, monkey heads, bear paws, bird's nests, duck breasts, deer tendons, and yellow lip glue.Among the eight treasures are fish maw, white fungus, shad, wide belly, civet cat, hash film, fish lip and skirt.The next eight delicacies are sea cucumber, asparagus, large mushroom, Sichuan bamboo shoots, red scale fish, scallops, oyster yellow, and mullet eggs. The person who formulated these eight treasures must be some kind of imperial chef, right? People in Beijing think that things far away are more precious. Nowadays, the transportation is developed, and the hash film among the eight treasures can be bought everywhere, and the price is quite cheap. Woolen cloth. The Hash film, called snow clam ointment, is said to be good for beautification. When the ladies heard that it was related to frogs, they were frightened. After taking a bite, they frowned and yelled that it was very fishy. Even the deer tendon in Shangbazhen can be bought in any medicinal material store.Eat at a restaurant and feel hard.Of course not as delicious as beef tendon. Speaking of beef tendon, Zhenzhong's bear paw is more like beef tendon. After I tried it once, I would never eat it again. Humps have a weird smell to them, which I don't appreciate either.As for the bird's nest, let the old mother make up for it. Hong Kong people may have never eaten some of the top eight treasures, but they can pick up everything in the middle eight treasures. Tremella is even more uncommon, and shad has too many bones. Xiabazhen is a common occurrence, and sea cucumbers have been distributed in the market.Asparagus has been seen, but few people buy it.Mushrooms are common mushrooms.Sichuan bamboo shoots can be bought at Nanhuopu, and red scale fish is nothing. : Plant shells are often eaten.Oyster yellow is more precious.Mullet eggs are the mullet roe that Taiwanese love to eat, right? You can buy a piece and try it when you leave the Chiang Kai-shek Airport next time. It’s not very expensive. This year's lychee harvest is bumper, and I plan to take the group members to pick trees. When it comes to lychees, the best variety is of course the hanging green variety, and the hanging green only grows in Zengcheng, so let's explore the way first. One hour's drive away from Guangzhou, Zengcheng can be reached.We took the old road, and the hawkers on both sides used a styrofoam white board with red letters on it: Zengcheng lychees.Concubine Xiao, Guiwei and Nuomi Ci, Nuomi Ci also has another name called Mizhi. In order to attract the attention of passing vehicles, the hawkers hold a long branch with a red plastic shopping bag tied to the end, and keep waving it, rather than attracting it, like chasing flies. Zengcheng, also known as Licheng, is not as prosperous as other cities in Guangdong.When you come to Zengcheng, you must visit the oldest hanging green tree.A small park was built in the city center, surrounding this unique first-generation hanging green tree, and surrounding the park is a circular moat.The water in the middle is not very clean, covered with duckweed, but there are still small fish swimming. We can only look at the tree and the fruit it bears from afar. I heard that it was sold for 60,000 yuan at an auction last year. The fruit of the old tree cannot be eaten, and the rest are the offspring of the graft. We came to a large orchard with 7,000 lychees. The garden owner pointed to one of them: "This is hanging green." I can't wait to pick it up and eat it. It's not special, and the core is big. It's not very sweet or fragrant. I'm a little disappointed. It's probably a mixed breed and a mixed breed. It's not a good mix. If you tell the group members that this is the famous Gualu, they will definitely scold them to death, and decide to go to Dongguan, which is more abundant, to eat lychees. Other trees are covered with red and attractive lychees, some of which are beautiful but not tasty.The cinnamon flavor is good, and the glutinous rice cakes are also delicious. It rained heavily yesterday, but after being exposed to the sun this morning, the shells of one-fifth of the fruit have burst, and the lychee farmers sighed loudly.I really sympathize with them. When it rains when it grows, it will not produce a good harvest and the price will be low. If it rains again, it will be broken.Weather will always be their enemy.We should be grateful for every lychee we eat.Thinking of this, I felt like a mother-in-law again, so I laughed. I haven't been to Dongguan for two or three years. As the common people say, I don't recognize it.I didn't expect Dongguan to be so big, with 33 towns, each developing independently. 先看酒店,从前只有一家是五星级的,当今多子数间,在厚街的那家嫌杂,到"御景湾"去。新盖的,不错,可以住下。 再直奔一个叫长安的镇去釆荔枝。 长安这个镇距离深圳最近,只需半个多小时车程,背山面水,对着珠江口,风水很好,所有航至香港的货船,都从这里出发。工业非常发达,玩的地方也不少。 初见的荔枝万绿丛中一点红,后来的红果实数目多了,像童话中才出现的景象,最后看到的,叶稀少,只剩满枝的红果,挂在树上,像女人的披肩。 剥一粒吃,即使桂味也皮薄肉厚核小,糯米糍更佳,最难得的是无渣。 东莞荔枝,真好。 今年提早了一个月成熟,我们通知团友需要时间,六月二十四日才能成行,但到时荔枝都已掉光,怎么办才好? 好在园主引我们走远一点,指着三棵果实还是绿带黄的树:"留给你们,月底之前来吃,刚好最熟!晚熟的荔枝,最好吃了!" 我只听过挂绿、妃子笑、桂味和糯米糍,问园主说:"荔枝到底有多少品种?" "八十多种。"他说完找到一棵,釆了两粒孪生塞在我手上,"这叫蜜糖情!。 唱戏的有"心肝锭,蜜糖情"这句话,想不到成为荔枝的名字,即刻吃进,果然甜得漏蜜。可惜果实不够多,无法和各位分享。 这里的荔枝也有很多因大雨和暴阳而破裂,荔民们把果全拿去喂鸡,看到那群肥肥胖胖的荔枝鸡,恨不得马上吃下肚去,试试看可不可以安排抓到餐厅去,等大伙来的时候一齐吃,即使是白切,肉也一定很甜。 荔枝园找好了,但是吃呢?我们的团,吃得不好,又要被骂。每次探路,最初都是找不到一两间理想的,心中焦急。当然可以再来几次试吃。但是时间和体力都不允许了。 也许是这条命生得好,每一次到了最后,总有解决办法。连我们的司机阿强也觉得奇怪:"蔡先生有吃运。" 因为不去增城,这次的荔枝团就避开了广州,车程可以不必那么长,安排如下: 第一天早上十点,从香港出发,中餐在深圳,我们这次回程找到了一家潮州菜,试过之后觉得他们的螺片做得不错,大家会满意。 响螺分两种做法:白灼和干烧,头尾则拿去和橄榄煲汤,加上清蒸大鹰鲍、蚝烙、猪尾则改用栗子去煲、鹅脚翅腱、白果烩鸭舌、冬菜炒秋瓜、炒薄壳、金猪上汤荟、绿豆爽、茨壳果和咸蛋卷。 吃完之后乘车到东莞,人住御景湾酒店,五星级,有各种设施,团友休息游泳也可以,不然就和大伙儿一块去做脚底按摩。 东莞这一家我们试过,地方干净舒畅,但是一大群人去,不一定完全遇到好的技师,这要看运气。总之做脚底之前先给点小费,是保证得到最好服务的办法。 晚上在东莞吃,有木瓜虫草炖鲜鲍、白灼不是人工养殖的虾、中山妙龄鸽、咸野鸭、鱼卷、桂花炒粉丝、蒜头蒸三鲜、姜丝腩肉、粉葛扣肉、浸剑花、榴莲酥和生果。 第二天早餐在酒店吃,接着大釆荔枝。 中餐吃点心宴,一桌子的小点,用金钩翅浸东星斑来压轴,翅吃得多,不稀奇,东星斑骨汤底,较为特别。 饱饱,带着随团赠送的糯米糍回香港,和没有时间参加的家人分享。 终于组成的荔枝团,吃得大家都高兴。 东莞荔枝真是一流,皮薄,剥起来有快感,肉丰满,很香。一咬下,咦,核子怎么那么小?太好吃了。 今年大丰收,荔枝有些根本没人去釆。早上和友人到后山散步,见一像园主的老人家:"吃吧,不要客气。" 我们包的那三棵树,都是最好的品种,有桂味和糯米糍。从树上摘下后即刻吃,那种感觉和买回家完全不同,不虚此行。 荔枝园中。看见的都可以釆一颗试试。有些火焰般鲜红的,样子美丽到极点,但是园主说一点也不好吃。 到底有多少品种呢?能数得出的是三月红、妃子笑、黑叶、桂味和糯米糍等等,还看见一棵树,上面的荔枝足足有苹果那么大。 "那是什么?"我叫了出来。"綻死牛。"园主说。 马上釆了一粒。一口咬下,果实大,核也大。肉不多,有苦涩味。一点也不好吃。形容东西硬,广东人说可以用来掷狗,这一种扔出,连牛也能杀死,真是厉害。 园里的黄皮也成熟了,虽然园主说他们的黄皮很甜,但黄皮怎么甜,也甜极有限。不过照吃,酸了一阵,再吃荔枝,更美味。 "这边的晒到太阳,试试看。" "这一种没那么甜,但有股清香。" 团友纷纷拿给我,照吃不误。在园里的那一个多小时之内,吃了无数。苏东坡一天吃荔枝三百粒,这种吃法才对。一面想吃一面怕死,身体还没事,心已有疾。一样不健康。 那天做电台节目,曾智华问我:"荔枝到底应该吃到什么地步为止?”我笑笑:"吃到生病为止。" 接管日本餐厅当监制,请了两位从东京来的大师做菜。材料和人手都配合得很好,只是他们不能接受香港的水。 难怪,我们到上海去,也认为当地的水有一股很重的味道,走进五星级酒店大堂,中间有个喷水池,闻了即刻倒胃。 怎么办?只好订购大量的矿泉水煲汤,三十加仑的蒸馏水洗菜。成本不菲。 很多食肆都有这个毛病,沏茶的水太难喝,用多好的茶叶也是枉然。自来水加了大量的化学药品消毒,氯气之类的东西愈添愈多,又加上水箱用久了多迹、喉管生锈等等,就算把水煲了又煲,还是除不了那阵异味。可以认为不重要的,别的餐厅也是这样,客人喝了那么多年,也不抱怨,这话没错。可是,到底,过不了自己那一关。 解决方法唯有一劳永逸地装净水器,或过滤器,记得念小学的时候,常识课中有一个过滤器的横切面图,最上面是层细砂,然后铺粗砂,再来是小石,最低层为大石。这种过滤器有效,是数十年前的水,还是非常干净的。 应付当今的水,需要用逆渗透矿化的纯净水器设备,是能够把海水也变成食水的最先进科技。什么叫逆渗透?原文是,为美国人多年研究的成果。渗透是一种物理现象。而逆渗透就是在有盐分的水中施加比自然渗透压力更大的压力,使水的浓度高的一方渗透到浓度低的一方,把水中的水分子压到膜的另一边,变为纯净水。 太专门了,各位不需了解。这种发明起初很贵,后来阿拉伯家庭人人一个,大量生产,也便宜起来。小型的连安装也只不过是三千港币左右,当然,我们那家需要用数个大型的,花费很大,也是值得的。 这次来港的大厨神田,除了他设计的大餐之外,从他的谈话之中,学习甚多。 "许多人都做混合菜,日本料理只是学会一半,西洋菜也懂得一半,加起来就以为是,其实大错特错,两个半桶水不等于一桶水。菜,是东西方的烹调都要一百巴仙掌握,才能做出来,也不局限于色香味,甚至于视觉,也能创造。"他说。 "视觉?"我问,"不是等于色吗?""色之外,还有型。"他说。 "什么型?" "那就是传统上固定了的样子,将它改变,令人意想不到。"他解释。我向他说:"光讲没用,你举个例子。" "像沙律,你的印象之中,一定用一个碟子或者用一个碗装着吧?" "晤。"我点头。 神田躲进厨房,三分钟之后出现,捧出他的沙律。 原来是用一个高身的玻璃杯盛着,最底层是鲜红颜色的番茄,中间为白色的素面,再上面为绿色的蔬菜,煞是美观。 "味道方面,一般沙律用很多油,虽然说橄榄油很健康,但也不是什么美味。与其用油,不如浇汁,把昆布和生鱼熬汤,淋在菜上,不必加味糖也很甜,又不油腻。西方沙律东方形态和味道炮制,为什么不可以?"他笑说。 真有道理,我急着问:"还有呢?" 这次较久,八分钟后从厨房冒头,捧出一碟黄颜色的菜,原来是茶碗蒸。 他说:"这一道菜是炖蛋,日本传统用一个碗蒸出来,内容什么都看不到,碗一深,蒸的时间就久。一久,不新鲜。你请我吃中国菜的蒸水蛋,我即刻想到把茶碗蒸改成碟子上,这才叫做。" 我一向不喜欢吃三文鱼,尤其是刺身。 这次神田设计的大餐中,有一道三文鱼和明太子的两层烧,我一听到三文,就皱眉头。 "三文鱼有很多种,"神田说,"塔斯曼尼亚的大西洋三文,就没有那一股异味,吃得过。在香港找不找得到?" 其他食物他都由日本带来,塔斯曼尼亚三文,可以就地采取,我在一些高级食品店看过,拍胸口说:"找得到,包在我身上。" 岂知走遍了港九,没有塔斯曼尼亚就是没有塔斯曼尼亚。 "最初进过货,不受香港人欢迎,后来就改成挪威的了。店员说。"挪威的太油,味道又太重呀"我说。 "他们就是爱吃。"店员解释。 没办法,回去向神田报告,说寿司柜中有挪威的,可不可以将就? 神田摇摇头:"订货要多久?""两天。"我回答。 "那么就把这道菜改为蛤蜊蒸石斑好了。"神田不折衷。 心中嘀咕:"等到塔斯曼尼亚的来了,再用挪威的一块烧烧,看他吃不吃得出来?刺身容易辨别,烧烤丁味道差不了哪里去。" 说到三文鱼,我并不全都讨厌的,三文鱼肚边的那条肉,日本人叫"腹筋",我还来得个喜欢。用它...蒸,比五花腩更厉害,名副其实的肥得漏油。 塔斯曼尼亚的鱼运到,神田已猜出我想些什么,用挪威的和它比较,各烧一块出来让我试试,挪威的咬了一口放下,塔斯曼尼亚的全部吃光。今晚来了一位团友,说给我的文章影响,也不爱吃三文丫,菜单上这一道可不可以改?我请他试,不喜欢的话再说、结果他点头满意,证明神田说得没错。 凶它什凶山>< 开始了餐厅监制的生涯,真好玩。 除了和大厨设计菜单之外,订购了许多罕见的海鲜,还有推出日 本三大珍味,就算东京的一般料理店也未必口乞得到。 特色餐一共有十道,为避免混乱。和师傅及同事们订出一套制度,将菜谱和桌号及人数一一列个清楚,贴在厨房壁上,每出一道菜划掉一项,也是工作之一。 酒有八海山",来自新潟县。新潟米佳,酿出来的酒错不了。试过了八种名牌,结果选中了这一只,好的米酒是不烫热或冷冻的,与红酒一样,喝室温。 宣传,安排客人订座时间等等,一切准备好了,到时还需要盯场。第一晚已挤满客人,反应奇佳。接着几天都没什么问题,可以放心了"菜单中有一道牛肉,我拜佛,不吃牛,可以不可以换?。一位妇 人说。 "我去替你问问师傅。"我说。 走进厨房,看他忙得团团乱转,不忍心,回头跑出来,向妇人说:不可以!" 她脸色一沉。 "但是可以送你一客天妇罗,我请客。牛肉打包回去,给家人吃。我说。 人家高兴。 当我对电影的兴趣减少,开始向饮食业发展的时候,国际影评人东尼雷恩来港,向许鞍华问起我这个老友的近况,活转来转去,东尼惊叫:"什么?他拿着锅铲当厨子?" 后来东尼又被国际影展邀请来港,遇到许鞍华,话又转来转去,东尼惊叫:"什么?他拿着旗子当导游?" 下一次他来,又再遇到许鞍华时,话转宋转去,东尼一定再惊叫:什么?他穿着黑制服在餐厅当?" 的找月寻饼完美 "你这一阵子一直往广州跑,到底想干什么?"小朋友问。"找寻字姜的日饼"茄间礬 什么Ⅱ完美的月饼?" "每一个人的定义都不同,"我说,"基础是建立在你小时候吃过的味道。" "小时候吃过,长大了再找回也不一定是最理想的。"小朋友说。 "说得是。"我说,"但是我小时候吃过的,我已找到。是比长大后吃的更好" "到底是怎么一个味道,说来听听。""第一,"我说,"并不是太甜。" "我还以为从前的月饼一定很甜。" "不,不。"我说。做得好的话,你并不会觉得甜,吃第二块也不腻。 "有这么好的月饼吗?"小朋友问。 "有。"我说"我们已经成功做出来。"还有什么特点?" "皮簿如纸。"我说。 "real?" "我就想证实给大家看看。"我说。 "为什么要去内地找?香港没有吗?, "也有。"我说,"但是不肯花心思。内地师傅肯和我研究。"内地做的月饼,不值钱呀!" "那要看什么月饼了。"我说,"其实很多香港的名牌饼家,饼里的馅 都是大陆做的。虽然内地制造,但是由我细心监督。"那么是不是很便宜?" "人一费省下来的钱,花在材料方面,用最新鲜最高级的,价钱并不便宜。" "那也不必整天去跑呀。"小朋友说。 "还有包装呢?经销渠道呢?每一行都是学问,学习过程,才是最享受的。做得成做不成,又是另外一回儿事了。我说。 想起烧鹅,去"镛记"。想起皮蛋,去"镛记"。 想起太子捞面,去"镛记"。想起董事长腐乳,去"镛记"。想起要吃的东西太多,"镛记"都能供应。和甘氏兄弟做了朋友,店 里没有的菜谱也和我一起研究。 一天忽然有奇想,把金庸作品出现过的菜实现。黄蓉烧给洪七公的"二十四桥明月夜",是把豆腐夹在火腿中烧出来的。 大家埋头的结果,把整只金华火腿切开三分之一,用电钻挖了二十四个洞,埋人豆腐,再蒸之七个小时。好...道香喷喷的菜,又呈现在食客面前。 又一天想重现袁子才的,一大方块五花腩,蒸熟后再以 茶叶熏之,绝不肥腻,又香又好吃。 烧鹅人人会烧,但是用的炭长年探讨下来,是新加坡的二号炭最好一号太大,三号火弱,只有二号最适合。 皮蛋人人会做,但只有他们的水准稳定,切开一定甜心,为什么?每天亲自制造,摆个三十天后状态最好;也只有他们的销路允许这么做。太子捞面是在烧鹅腿边划一刀,用滴下油来捞的。董事长腐乳是做给甘氏兄弟的老太爷吃的。兄弟们已是老伯,老伯的父亲自动成为董事长。年纪大了,不能吃太咸的东西,这一小块又香又滑又不咸的腐乳,表现出兄弟们一片孝心。这是中国人做人的基本。 六十年了,"镛记"没有忘记基本,服务客人,像服务老太爷一样细心。 "镛记"出版六十周年纪念刊物,要我写几个字。没有稿费收,借自己的方块发表,以作帮补,请各位读者包涵。 是茭白笋,菜市场中卖的漂亮到极点,想起前两天在元朗"大荣华"吃过一道叫茭笋炒猪爽肉的菜,抄袭起来。 猪爽肉就是猪头肉。到九龙城菜市二楼叉烧档"荣记",请老板娘为我切,她选了两片卤水猪耳,只用软骨最薄的那三分之一切丝。再来左右两片面颊,片成薄片给我备用。 茭白横切,有些人喜欢切丝,但还是一大片一大片好。 先下猪油,当然猪油最香,把猪头肉爆了一爆,再放茭白下去炒,炒至半熟,淋上上汤,上盖,坟个一两分钟,即能上桌。 "大荣华"是否这么做,我没问过老板梁文韬先生,按自己的方法搞掂。 新加坡电视台派出一外景队,说要做十三集,用种种不同的材料为主题。其他齐全,只剩猪肉,本来可到广州的"茅山食府"去拍他们的三十 @±8§,但"大荣华韬哥做的几味也拿手,我临时打电话找他。那£:一劳动节,客人挤得满满,韬哥还是客气地空出一间房让我们拍摄,真是老友。 要豪华,用火腿熬老鸡,待温浸腐竹。 要更简单,用浮在。酱上面那层油拌之即可。酱本身已有味精, 不求师傅亦无问题。:二、三色墩 这个菜是由老北京的芥菜墩演变出来的。 从最平民化的坛根院到高级万家菜,都有这道用白菜煮熟了,揉上黄色芥末,加点糖的凉菜,叫为芥菜墩。 吃时一不小心,很容易呛到,芥末要下得多,愈呛喉愈刺激。为了拍照片,只有做得花巧一点。 保留北京原味芥菜墩,把黄芽白的头(三寸左右)切下,用草绳束起来,在滚了的上汤中浸熟,备用。冷后揉上黄芥末。 另个白菜头用山葵揉之,若嫌绿色不够,可挤芫荽汁染之,加点糖和盐。最后的用韩国金渍酱揉,不够红可加番茄酱。 上桌之前剪掉草绳。把叶子打开,黄芥末上撒火腿丝、绿山葵上摆江瑶柱、红金渍上铺切成小角
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