Chapter 40 a standing fish

From the perspective of upright walking animals, the fish swimming all day long are always standing all day long, while the fish on the plate are always lying there peacefully, making the diners sitting around look like a group Keeper.I have seen this kind of fish a lot, and sometimes a kind of laziness arises spontaneously, and I can't help but want to beg to it, I'll be crooked too. Chinese-style fish dishes, except for those who have been mutilated into thousands of pieces, there is no posture problem. Anyone who puts the whole tail on the plate is always lying on the side of the gums. Even if the classic Yellow River carp is put in, it is sold with the tail upturned on the plate. ; Confucian cuisine "hugging carp" should be presented in the usual posture of an animal or human hug, but it is also lying down on the table, which looks more like a caesarean section than a snuggling between parents and children. The Cantonese, even though they can steam a fish to a state of fascination, can't change its rigid lying position.

Except for the mermaid in Copenhagen and the lionhead fish in Singapore, is there only a prescribed action for fish to "lie down" after they leave the water?This is really a boring and annoying question.At the beginning of 2001, in Chengdu's "Hometown in Eastern Sichuan", I finally witnessed a "Standing Fish" looking forward to its head and tail.The first time I saw a fish standing on a plate, the visual impact was like seeing a MK50 anti-submarine torpedo attacking head-on at a speed of 50 knots in a periscope. This dish is called "Three Pepper Silver Carp". The fish is wild silver carp in Wujiang River (also known as fat head fish, a kind of "fat water fish" with a lively temperament and good at jumping), about a catty and a half; , wild pepper, pepper, pepper also.On the plate, the fish stands openly in an S shape, jumping like a fish.First use "three peppers" to marinate the fish slightly from the inside to the outside, and then cook it in water with kimchi soaked in wild three peppers. It tastes spicy and sour, and the fish is elastic and very tasty. Of course, this is secondary. A fish not only allows you to look left, right, up, down, and completely changes the look and feel, but also updates the traditional action and trajectory of chopsticks acting on the fish body, instead of directly picking up the fish from the plane From then on, the graphic designer changed his career to become a sculptor, gaining a feeling of carving or inscribing a wall.Of course, all kinds of taboos about "turning over" for a fish will no longer exist.

It should be noted that during the steaming process, the fish has not yet been stood up (such as steaming in a microwave oven, the best effect should be standing up the fish). Some organs, that is to say, not all fish are suitable to stand up as "capital fish". It is better to lie down for Changyu, hairtail or flounder. Tens of thousands of fish fell down, and one fish stood up. This battle has since disrupted the traditional way of telling the story on the table. Moreover, this shocking fish is actually from Sichuan cuisine. Leaped up in a bloody mess.Shu people always boil fish after making it out of shape. Although they can also be steamed in a pressure cooker, the result is often either tasteless or invisible, or the taste and shape are all bad.The person from eastern Sichuan who made the fish stand up, known as Ermao in the Jianghu, is a poet and chef of Miao nationality. Ermao was inspired by his hometown, the wild food in the "border town" at the intersection of Sichuan and Hunan, the so-called "smoke water" "Qi" and "Gangqi" refer to the vigorousness of materials and the uninhibitedness of cooking.Regarding the difference between western Sichuan plain cuisine (mainstream Sichuan cuisine) and Sichuan winter cuisine, Ermao wrote in the style of Yuanren Xiaoling:

Sichuan cuisine Plains, hills, sunny days Chuandong vegetables High mountains, flowing water, dark moon and high wind That's about all a poet can think and do in a kitchen.However, an enlightened fish can tell us that fish don’t have to lie down, and poets don’t have to starve to death. Not only that, but they can also make themselves and us eat better, and Sichuan cuisine can also be more flexible and paralyzed. There is more transparency of high mountains and flowing water in the comfort of life.